SOLD

2 trips out and it has sat in the safe. Great optic but I just don’t have a use for it like I thought I would in my impulsive mind.

$1350 shipped & insured

NO TRADES

Looking for a manners folder for impact or rem 700 footprint. Prefer standard or lightweight model, color doesn’t matter…. building a hunting rifle..

PM me what you have…

While not a long range cartridge, I just thought others might in intrigued... or at least this is a way to start the year off with a bang.

Mr. Rumore has made them in 26 Nosler and a 33 Nosler, as well.

The .458 Lott is a brute of a cartridge. Making around 4800 ft/lbs with a 300gr bullet.. and around 5800 ft/lbs with a stiff 450gr load.

FWIW...I have fired a 500gr Hornady FMJ through 39" of solid pine.

And making in run in a "AR" platform is impressive.

Tony Rumore is a SME in Large Bore AR's, and now apparently, really big large bore AR's ... https://tromix.com/

I have to admit, if this was available for purchase today.... I might really "want" one.

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So I had a load worked up for my 18" 6.5cm with 123 eld-x and 48gr of superformance. I tested the load back in probably... May, and it was spectacular, shot a half minute. Had a MV of 2919 over a 5-10 shot (I don't remember the incident) string, and excellent accuracy. So then I let my rifle sit in the closet with the ammo since without firing it. Yesterday I had time to run out to the range, and as I started moving out, my dope was obviously wrong. I backed up to 200y, confirmed zero, and it was good, and that's when I looked down at the garmin. I was getting 40fps variation from one round to the next. I ultimately ended up having an ES of 93 over 20 rounds. I've never even heard of such a thing. What could cause such ridiculous variance in velocity, other than bad powder measuring, (I am going to pull bullets and test powder charges just to be sure, but I'm very careful while loading, double checking the charge weights at least every 4 or 5 rounds). I doubt that's the problem. The brass was virgin sig brass. My buddy seems to think that it could be causing problems, but I've shot it for years without trouble. Where else should I look for this problem? Thank you

Looking for rough estimate for what it would cost to helmet mount a RH25 V2. Trying to weigh benefits/cost of getting helmet and all required attachments versus just continuing to use it as a handheld. Any suggestions on mounts, helmet, and other requirements are appreciated.

Like the title says I want to trade my Remington 700 trigger tech single stage Dimond pro curved for a triggertech double stage Dimond pro curved. I can get you a picture if you want its currently on my impact match rifle.

I purchased these way back when Based on this article.

I only ever used the scope alignment bars (never the lapping tools/paste, etc). And I only used those bars once per set. In other words, it's functionally "new".

"Mr. Kokopelli" was an older gentleman when I spoke to him and his website is no longer working. I hope he is doing well. He made a fine product.

Note that these are 1" and 30MM sets (sorry, no 34mm) They are very heavy as you would expect for a huge steel bar and aluminum bar stock.

$150 per set shipped CoNUS; Both sets for $275

I think it’s time.

I’m only using Lapua brass for my 338 Lapua. I’ve got an Annealeez on the way. My question pertains to various 308 loads.
I’m loading “bulk” 150 grain training ammo for the SCAR in range pickup brass that has been annealed, sized, and trimmed. I don’t expect better than 2 or 3 MOA from my 13” SCAR. Other loads are 125 grain controlled chaos for the SCAR (my real priority ammo), and 125 grain SST which is my training ammo to approximate the 125 controlled chaos in the SCAR.
I’m also loading 168 SMK for 600 and under in my 24” MRAD and 169 SMK for up to 1k in my MRAD.
My question pertains to brass. In addition to thousands of “bulk” cases, I’ve got 700 Federal cases from FGMM, I’ve got 500 NEW Lake City primed cases, I’ve got 500 once fired Norma cases, and 100 new Lapua cases. My thoughts were to use the Lapua for the 169. Originally I planned on using Lake City for the 168, but I keep hearing that Norma is better. The 125 grain rounds are more like 400 yards and in so I’m not sure if I should stick with Lake City for these? Or Federal? Or I’ve got more Norma loaded that I can practice with to produce more cases.
The Norma brass at this time was all fired from my SCAR. The FGMM was all fired from my MRAD.
My process is
Deprime, wet tumble without pins, anneal, lube, size with Redding type S bushing with expander ball removed, measure case, trim, chamfer, wet tumble without media, prime, graphite on case neck (should I also mandrel?) throw powder from Chargemaster Supreme, seat bullet with Forster micrometer die.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
I hope I’m not leaving anything out. It’s almost 2am.
I’m using a Wilson case gage micrometer and/or sinclair comparator.
The new primed brass will be run through the mandrel, graphite powder on the neck, throw powder, then seat.

I should add that the 150 grain bulk will not be loaded in that sequence since it will be loaded on a Dillon and I don’t trust the Dillon priming system. That ammo is the least of my worries, however.

Edit 2/1: both sets sold.

Recently swapped stocks on 2 rifles and these rings, while great on the old stock, were a bit too high on the new stock and weren't totally comfortable and the stock ran out of cheekrest adjustment so I swapped to lower rings.

Rings are 30mm, 1.26 high. Both sets of rings are mint and were mounted for about 4 months and only saw a couple of range sessions. I'm still trying to find the original boxes... I found the boxes for every other set of ARC rings and mounts I have but the boxes for these rings were not in the usual "boxes for gun stuff" spot in the shop.

Asking $145 per set, or $280 for both sets, price includes shipping and insurance. Payment via paypal F&F, zelle, USPS MO, or check (will ship when payment clears.)

1 set sold 1/27

Caliber: 6.5 Creedmoor
Barrel: 18" 1:8 twist (40 rounds fired)
Muzzle Device: Surefire
Trigger: Geissele Match
2 magazines
Optic: Leupold M5HD 7-35 LaRue Mount
$4,300 total, will sell or trade together

Would rather trade for a PRS style bolt action setup chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. (Foundation/MPA/AI/MDT/Manners/ Proof Research/etc.)
Feel free to message for more pictures.

Foundation stock SOLD

Internal weight kit (has dent from screw running into it, but still fully functional even with the spigot, see pic)- 110
Secondary internal weight kit- 120

Payment will be via venmo, PPFF with no comments or zelle

Let me know if you have one laying around.

Dirty Bird Industries DPMS High AR-10 receiver set with ambi bolt release- 250+cost of shipping
Falcon Optics 4-14x44 FFP scope with mil dot reticle- 200+cost of shipping
Centurion Arms Gen 1 CMR handguard 14"- 120+ cost of shipping

The front site on the CMR is a troy HK style battle sight, also up for grabs for $50+ cost of shipping

Ok, so I've read a gazillion threads, heard a gazillion things, and I'm still clueless as to the math. In the old days, folks spent a lot of money blueprinting an old Rem700 action. Now folks instead buy custom actions (for probably less than a Rem700 + blueprinting cost).

But what does blueprinting really do? I mean, I've got a basic b-14 HMR which shoots (I'm a total noob at precision shooting, so I'm happy with my .7 MOA [5 round] groups at 100, but he rifle is almost certainly more mechanically accurate than I can shoot). So I'm trying to understand this concept.

1. If you have a reasonably accurate rifle, does blueprinting make a difference in raw mechanical accuracy? Generally folks say it is 90% the barrel anyway, right? (totally ignoring that it is 99% the Indian and not the arrow - I'm talking mechanical accuracy)
2. If it doesn't make the gun more accurate, what's the $*#(ing point of spending money blueprinting it?
3. I'm not trying to start a flame war or provoke folks. I'm trying to understand something that nobody has really been able to explain to me. Well, a couple of somethings that nobody has been able to explain:
a. What to custom actions really do, at a raw functional level, that box store actions don't (assuming a box store action that at least cycles and loads rounds reliably and you can get a smith to fit a Bartlein to your cheap ass action and get sub 0.5 MOA accuracy)?
b. What does blueprinting do to a box store action (Remmie, Bergara, etc)? Like, I don't care if they are filing this and sanding that and giving the action a good time from 3 succubi summoned from the 5th circle of hell. What does that handjob blueprinting actually do in practical terms? And how does that compare to a custom action?

Again, I'm trying to just understand the practical matters. To me, smoother doesn't mean much at all. Unless the "rougher" action has problems loading or ejecting rounds. In which case I don't care about the "smoothness", just the result of FTFs when in a competition. Things like installing M4/M16 extractors onto your bolt face don't mean **** to me either when the old fashioned crap (not advocating FUDness here, just not wanting a solution to a problem that doesn't reallyu exist) has successfully pulled out 5k pieces of brass over two barrel lifespans without a single issue.

Cheers folks, and again: If I'm stirring the pot, I don't mean to (for its own sake). I'm really just trying to understand the reason people are spending lots of money on custom actions, or are still blueprinting older actions, vs not.

I have 639 of these I wont get around to shooting anytime soon so they’re up for trade or sale. Lookng for Berger Elite hunters, 90, 190, 250 grain A Tips, 75, 147 or 180 grain eldm’s of equal value or $365 TYD OBO

I did a thing.

I’ve been itching for a Hi Power. Prices of actual Brownings are borderline retarded since they quit making them, and the new FNs are reportedly a different pistol internally.

I bought one of these cheap Turkish clones that are being imported by EAA. I wasn’t expecting much other than a usable slide and frame that I could either build on, or send off for custom work, so my expectations were/are pretty low for it out of the box. I got their “MC P35 Match,” FWIW. Have not fired it yet, so these are just my initial impressions.



Overall, I’m pretty impressed with the quality considering how cheap these things are. I was kind of kicking myself after ordering it until it came in. I was mostly pleasantly surprised, but at that price point, as to be expected, there were some corners cut and some fit/finish issues. The rear sight was loose right out of the box. I guess they didn’t bother tightening the set screws at the factory, or they loosened up in transit. Easy fix with an Allen wrench, but still… Also, one of the grip screws looked like an untrained chimp screwed it in. The slot is mangled a little. Also easily fixed, but annoying nonetheless for a NIB pistol. Only ships with one mag, which is silly, but I knew that ahead of time.

The trigger pull was better than I was expecting, but I was really expecting a third-world turd. It was somewhat gritty and heavy, but not as bad as I had anticipated. I disassembled it and stoned/polished the lock work where it needed it, and added a chamfer to the sear. The break is now way crisper, and the grittiness is gone, but it’s still pretty heavy, and there’s still a touch of creep right before the wall. Of course, I don’t have any expectations for my trigger job to last very long, I have a hunch the sear is probably not hard enough, but we’ll see. I’m going to send it off for a proper trigger job with some Cylinder & Slide internals anyway.

Internally, it appears to be a MK III clone. There is no magazine disconnect, but weirdly they still installed a roll pin into the hole in the trigger where the mag safety would normally be pinned. They have me scratching my head on that one.

These do have a firing pin block safety, which brings me to my first question:
Does anyone know if you can ditch the FPB spring and run these like an early Mk II? It makes a big difference in the smoothness of the take-up. I would think the firing pin spring would be sufficient to make it drop-safe without the FPB. There are plenty of 1911s floating around that way.

Second question: Does anyone have any recommendations for sights? I’ve always used tritium 3 dot for carry, but I was kind of thinking about the Heinie Straight 8’s. Or a Heinie plain rear with a tritium front. I’ve also kicked around the idea of a gold bead front, but I’ve never used one. Slide is going to have to be milled for the rear sight for pretty much anything I go with.

Third question: Anyone have any recommendations for holsters?

TIA

Looking for a full size MP5/SP5 clone. Would be interested in a SP5 for the right price. Want one that had already been shot and doesn't have any issues. Would love to pick one up that already has a brace, rail, and any other upgrades.

I am ideally looking for a AP5-P

NIB, Smith and Wesson 386XL in 357 Magnum. Scandium L Frame, 7 shot, comes with everything as new. Unfired and exceedingly rare. $1500 shipped to your FFL.

Only trade is a Springfield TRP Full Rail

SOLD VihtaVuori N560 powder

VihtaVuori N570 SOLD

Gone

I am the original owner. I mounted it, zeroed, confirmed it tracked reliably and accurately, then it's been sitting. This scope is in like new condition and comes with everything it left Colorado with **rings are not included**.

I like these US made XTR III so much that this is my 3rd 5.5-30 & I had 2 of the 3.3-18X50. I think the 5.5-30 have noticably better optical performance than the 3.3-18 and I think the US made non illuminated versions are better than the Philippines made illuminated versions.

SPF $900 shipped, if you want insurance (I wouldn't do it because it's a scam) I'm happy to insure it but that cost is on the buyer. I prefer no PayPal as they are anti gun (but so are most all other options, so...) but I will accept it as long as it's discreet and the fee is on the buyer.

Trades:
-ARC Xylo chassis for a R700 SA right hand (possibly other similar chassis)
-Bushnell Match Pro ED 3-18X50
-Bushnell Broadhead LRF

Please reach out with any questions or for more pics.