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4 Facts that De-bunk the Trump-Russia Narrative

The Dems, Marxists, and Never-Trumpers are on this boat claiming Trump is doing Putin’s bidding. It’s almost hilarious when you consider these brutal harsh facts about Trump’s actual conduct towards Putin and Russia:


1. Trump unleashing of US energy dominance and cheap pricing to fuel the US economy. This wasn’t done to hurt anyone else, just help the US. As a result, it sent the WTI into 1/4th of what it needs to be for Russian GDP growth. This was probably the most damaging thing Trump did in his first 4 years to Russia’s oil/NG-dependent economy.

2. Battle of Khasham, Feb 2018, Syria. Putin sent a Russian Wagner-led armored battle group with 2 armored battalions, artillery support, air support, and engineers to attack a tiny group of US SOF personnel at the Conoco plant near Khasham, which was across the river and well-past Russia’s line of demarcation agreed upon by the US and Russia. Trump WH responded by authorized total gloves-off annihilation of the Russian forces over a 6hr period through the night, resulting in scores of Russian Wagner mercy KIA, and scores of Syrians killed. No US President has ever taken the gloves off of US forces in any potential conflict between Russians and US personnel.

3. Just in case Putin didn’t get the message, Trump signed off on massive foreign military sales to Ukraine that they paid for, including huge shipments of Javelin Anti-Tank Guided Missiles and CLUs, as well as patrol boats and associated weapons. The Javelin ATGMs sent by Trump were crucial in stopping Putin’s armored columns later in 2022. No other US President authorized weapons sales to Ukraine, and in fact, several worked hard to stop European allies from sending weapons even when they wanted to. Example: Obama and David Cameron in Sep., 2014.

4. Trump shut down German involvement with Putin’s Nordtream 2, threatening enactment of the National Defense Authorization Act in 2019. This hurt Russia’s energy industry and helped to prevent Europe from being even further-beholden to Russian oil/NG exports than they already were.


US energy focus, Khasham, Javelins to Ukraine, and Nordstream 2 shut down. All some of the most effective counter-Russian foreign policy moves from a US President in history. It’s weird that no corporate US media covers any of these facts.

Mistake with ladder test

Hello very new to reloading and just need some advice on my mistake. Instead of putting 130gr on my garmin, I put 140gr for my 6.5cm loads. I got the velocities and I know where my nodes are, that is with the incorrect bullet weight entered. I really don’t want to do the whole test again and not looking for groups just looking for the best powder weight. Does it matter that I put wrong weight of 10 grain difference? What’s ur thoughts?

SOLD Springfield Armory MC Operator

Springfield Armory MC Operator with around 50-100 rounds through it. VZ grips and an aftermarket magwell/mainspring housing I took off another gun. Took it to the range once then it has sat in the safe for several years. Will include 2 Wilson 47D magazines.
$1100 shipped, no trades.

SOLD

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SOLD Burris XTR3i 3-18 SCR-2 mil

Burris XTR3i 3-18
Illuminated SCR-2 mil reticle
Mil adjustments
Used in 1 PRS 22 match, otherwise only shot from the bench. Looks basically new other than a little residue left behind where I had coban wrap on it (show in picture).
$850 shipped, open to offers including trades.

Marking this as sold, but I just changed my mind and decided to put it on another rifle.

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Reloading Equipment 6.5g, 308, 300wm brass FS

308-420 FC 1x FGMM 185G from a bolt gun $110 shipped ConUS

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SOLD6.5g 1x from an AR. Not beat up but it's not as clean as bolt brass.
147-PPU large rifle $40 shipped
364- Hornady small rifle $115 shipped

$135 for it all



300wm new primed pulled down(from what I can tell) from American Reloading.


Sig 21 obvious annealing 50ct. $35 shipped

Sig no year 30ct $20 shipped

Sig 20 crimp marks on neck 19ct $15 shipped

Hornady 117ct little beat up but works fine if ran through a die to clean up the neck. $40 shipped

$90 shipped for all 300wm

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Would you say this is manslaughter?

Cops shot a tranny who had called them to avoid being kidnapped.

We all know of the cops doing bad things and killing people. Does this count because the person was trans? Or is it justified as a matter of hastening the meeting of the Tranny with God. Who is doing a favor for whom?

  • Poll
Rebarrel VS New from DI or Nedved

What would you do?

  • Rebarrel my V22 with DI Precision 25" 1.25" Straight MullerWorks 13 Twist

    Votes: 4 30.8%
  • New DI Precsion Vudoo 360 25" 1.25" Straight MullerWorks 13 Twist

    Votes: 7 53.8%
  • New Nedved Vudoo 360 24" 1.2" Straight Bartlein

    Votes: 2 15.4%

I currently have a 22" MTU V22 I picked up used here on RFC. It shoots great and has served me well but, it just doesn't balance as well as I'd like in my MDT chassis. I have all the internal and external weights attached to my chassis and it just barely balances forward of the magwell.

My question is, what would you do? Would you pull the MTU and have a custom (longer & heavier) barrel spun up or pick up a new barreled action from DI or Nedved precision?

If I rebarrel I'm looking at $1175+tax/ship from DI precision for a 25" 1.25" Straight MullerWorks 13 Twist. I have no clue what my old barrel would be worth? Are there better or equally as good options for less $$?

If I buy new from DI Precision or Nedved I'll upgrade to the 360 action and sell my current V22 barreled action. It's $2800+tax/ship for the DI build with the same 25" MullerWorks barrel or $2290+tax/ship with a 24" Bartlein (I assume) 1.2" straight.

Will the 24" 1.2"be enough to balance an MDT ACC elite with a honking Razor G3 on top? I'd love to shed some of the internal/external weights and run a lighter set-up that still balances. It adds ~1.4 lbs and moves it's own center of balance (not the rifle itself) forward 2". The 25" 1.25" straight add yet another pound and another 0.5" further forward.

Is the $510 price difference between DI and Nedved worth it? What am I really gaining other than the choice of a longer/heavier barrel?
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22" MTU ~6.0 lbs
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24" 1.2" Straight ~7.4 lbs
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25" 1.25" Straight ~8.4 lbs

SOLD CZ 457 MTR / Bushnell Match Pro ED

Started life as a stock CZ 457 MTR in .22LR, Area 419 20" Lilja match grade barrel, stock milled flat to accept Area 419 weighted arca rail, L3i billet bottom metal, L3i billet 13 round magazines, Area 419 30 MOA rail and bolt knob. This rifle has less that 500 rounds on it and shoots 1/2 MOA @ 50 yards consistently, asking $1,250 shipped from individual to your FFL. Rifle as it sits weighs just under 13 pounds with optic.

Note: Area 419 Lilja 20" barrel is threaded with a blended thread protector....it is thread 1/2x28

Bushnell Match Pro ED scope with rings could be included for an additional $750.00.

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7X300WM- Heavy Bolt Lift only on Fire Formed - Need to Neck Turn?

Hello all, I have been in the process of researching a build for a new long range hunting rifle for a long time now and after too much contemplation I finally "pulled the trigger". It is a Remington 700 Action that I had a Bartlen 1:8 twist barrel chambered in 7MMX300 Win Mag. The barrel is finished at 26" + the break. I already had the MPA Ultra Lite chassis for it and had a Triggertech trigger installed. The Action was Blueprinted and if you can call it Truing for a Rem 700 it was. The break was timed but the Trigger/Bolt was not.

I am having some problems now though after being incredibly pleased with my initial shooting of right around 0.446" at 100 yards for a 6 round group. ( I load 6 so that I can have a 5 round group with a true called flyer if needed. This one was not needed so I just made the hole a little bit bigger. This was shot during the initial barrel break in and preliminary load development.

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The smith that built this rifle uses a different type and manufacturer of brass. (Old Remington I believe- I could not tell you the exact details, but not anything I can get.

It is however a reamer for 300 Win Mag necked down to 7MM.

After having good luck with Lapua 300 Win Mag brass in a true 300 Win Mag I decided to use that.

I am now however thinking that due to the neck thickness of Lapua brass that I may need neck turn this. I have never neck turned before- But I have researched it and have everything I need with the exception of a 7mm Mandrel which is now set to arrive tomorrow.

If you all could weigh it if you think Neck turning is indeed going to help provide a solution and also any input on how/when to do that would be incredibly appreciated.

With little prep the Lapua Virgin Brass shoots well. I am getting some flattened primers but no other signs of pressure except for a heavy bolt lift that is different then what I have experienced as a pressure sign on other guns in previous loads. It is only that last 10 Degrees or so of bolt lift that is at all heavy like it just needs to make that final "snap into place". That's why I made the comment about also possibly needing to have the firing pin/bolt timed? Sorry for my ignorance- But I still have much to learn and want to soak up as much knowledge from the experienced users on here as possible.


The Virgin brass that requires extra effort for that last 10 or so degrees is only on the higher end of my load data.

The real issue was once I went to shoot my now fire formed brass. I have done so twice so far. My last trip to the range yesterday I shot some additional Virgin Brass to continue to work up my stock pile of fire formed brass while also shooting what I was hoping would be working towards my final load development for this rifle. I had trimmed the brass as it had now been fired twice and per the data was needed, but it was properly chamfered and deburred. After experiencing the issue I also closely examined for any "lip" from the trimming process which was not present.

Even though I was still .003 off the lands this now 2X fired brass was somewhat difficult to chamber like what you would experience with a load that was jammed into the lands. No true force was needed, but it was clear that operation was not smooth or proper. Once fired I was getting all "heavy bolt lifts" mostly for that same last 10 degrees.

When I got back to the range I took a few of these pieces of brass to see if my 7mm Berer EOL Elite Hunters would fit by hand back into the fired and not yet re-sized brass. even with what limited force I could give it with my hand I could not get the correct projectile to fit into the case neck past the rear taper where the true bullet diameter of .284 is. (same type/brand/weight/lot bullet that was shot only an hour earlier)

When measuring the inside diameter of the neck with just my calipers I am getting between .2795 and .2815. This does not seem right to me as the bullet that was loaded yesterday morning into this brass was .284 and shot that afternoon before these measurements were taken.
This leads me to believe that the neck on my brass is to thick for my chamber- Is this an accurate assumption?

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When I measure with a ball micrometer the neck wall thickness of the brass is reads at different locations on different 2x fired brass of 0.01565" - 0.01605". I did tumble the brass prior to these readings to remove the carbon which I believed would affect these measurements. After seeing the discrepancies I believe my neck tension/consistency would benefit from turning the neck regardless of whether or not this thickness was too great for my chamber.

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My real questions are as follows-

Do you believe turning the necks will help/solve this issue of the 10 degrees of heavy bolt lift?
Assuming I will be turning these necks how much do I take off? My original thoughts (though I still need to measure more cases) would be based off the .284 7mm Diameter and subtract narrowest fire formed neck inside diameter IE .2795. Then this measurement of .0045" would be divided by 2 since I would be trimming the neck 360 degrees and the measurement needed is a diameter. So that would mean .00225" Minimum just to get to .284. But would I want to take off a little bit more than the bare minimum? Subtracting .002225 would give me a new neck thickness of .0134" Which I understand to still be a fairly "healthy" neck thickness. Would I be better off going ahead and trimming everything down to and even .013" or even less to prevent this from happening once additional firings of this brass occur? Maybe .0125" for my target neck wall thickness?
It is my understanding that is best to turn the necks just after resizing- Is that accurate?
Finally- Based on what I have described- Do you think turning the necks is all that is needed- Or is there anything that stood out to anyone that may mean that I do still need to get the bolt timed?
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