• 1 WEEK LEFT: This Target Haunts Me Contest

    Tell us about the one that got away, the flier that ruined your group, the zero that drifted, the shot you still see when you close your eyes. Winner will receive a free scope!

    Join contest

Filter

Tea App

This shit has potential to get really entertaining.

Short version is the Tea app is a women’s gossip app. They apparently either have to upload a pic of themselves or of their drivers license. The owners of the app had non existent cybersecurity. So ALL of the data & gossip messages are now out in the open.



And no, it’s not a “ dating safety app” it’s a gossip app.

Good rundown on the implications

Login to view embedded media

This has the feel of a vendetta , not just a political disagreement



Holy shit - if this turns out to be random I’d be surprised.
Gotta have a lot of hate to make someone a human torch in front of witnesses

lapua large and small primer

here's a question for you. i've been loading lapua small rifle primer brass for a bit now with great results in my 6.5 creedmoor,
but now i have some large primer brass, and was wondering, how much difference will there be in load levels compared to each other. was wondering if i load what i load for the small primer, will there be a difference in the large primer?

Accessories MDT Elite & ACC Gen 2 Rem 700 SA Chassis

I've got 2 new MDT Chassis, both are for a Rem 700 SA. Both are brand new in the box. PM me if you have questions.

MDT Elite in FDE. $1200 shipped (Also have a new set of black dampeners for $60)

MDT ACC Gen 2 in Black. Also has an Elite vertical grip instead of the Premier. $750 shipped

Only trades I might be interested in would be an Impact 737 .473 BF, or ARC MBrace 34mm rings or mount (high or medium).

Please, no other trades or offers, thanks.


20250724_142201.jpg

20250701_155451.jpg

20250606_175813.jpg

Night Vision Looking to purchase first thermal clip on

I'm looking into purchasing my first thermal clip on, and have been trying to read up on my options. My use case is a 16" AR with 1-10x March shorty scope, and American made is a must (I refuse to pay for optics made by our Chinese comrades). I'm trying to stay in the $3-4k budget, which I know tends to limit my options (I may up the limit a little with some convincing).

I've read a decent amount about the UTM and UTM-X, and been confused about the conflicting information about them being collimated vs not collimated. Also I've seen that the UTM-X (not sure about the original UTM?) has a full power IR laser that could be compatible with a pressure switch, is this a viable alternative to running a PEQ-15 or other laser on the rifle? Can the UTM-X (and possibly the older UTM) be repeatable enough with the right mount while also removable or swing away?

The other options I've seen are the older CNVD-T (320 core and way outdated but cool nonetheless) and the LWTS. Are there any other optics I should be looking at?

Appreciate the help!
  • Like
Reactions: BurtG

Optics NIGHTFORCE ATACR 5-25x56mm, Zerostop, 0.25MOA MOAR

I'm selling my Nightforce ATACR scope in like-new condition with NF 1.125" high rings and tube-mounted scope level for $1800. It has the 0.25MOA MOAR reticle (2nd focal plane), Zerostop, sunshade, and bikini scope cover. It will come in the original NF box and all the manuals. It's been a safe queen for several years and appears as new, with only 88 rounds fired from the KMW rifle it was mounted on.

Please PM me with questions.





Optics USO MST-100 USMC Sniper Scope

I just sold my GAP M40A1 and the buyer didn't want the MST-100 scope that was on it. It was part of a USO production run for GAP and Sniper's Paradise and has the special serial number GASP 00. I bought it from the owner of the Sniper's Paradise website and it's been back to USO once to lubricate the turret detents. No scope rings or mount, they went with the M40A1.

Price is $3450 shipped.

Send me a PM if you have questions.





  • Like
Reactions: popeye089

Maggie’s Retiring to Thailand- how you will fail

An acquaintance told me many stories about his plans to retire as a lineman and live in Thailand.

Around 1990, he purchased a home in Thailand and had two girls who lived in the house.

He would go to Thailand 3-4 times a year to drink, PT and F like a madman.

When in country, he stayed in the master bedroom and they cooked/ cleaned etc.

When he was not their they simply lived rent free and maintained the home and paid utilities.

Evidently a non Thai citizen cannot own land so some are able to lease land for 99 years or they can own 49% of a home.

Evidently as a 49% owner, they can simply vote you out and sell the home to themselves or for cash.



I have another friend in the middle of divorce who want to be a digital nomad, leave the US and live in Thailand while still working their IT job.

At face value it seems perfect.
Thai developers built too many condos so you can rent a nice 3 bedroom condo for $300-$400 while making your US income.



Evidently Thailand has a culture in Thailand of fleecing retirees....


I figured I'd post this video and see if any of you have any first hand knowledge of friends / family retiring in Thailand.

Login to view embedded media
Is this video accurate?Thailand

Optics Schmidt & Bender PMII 5-25x56 Tremor 2 RAL8000

S&B pmII 5-25x56. Tremor 2 reticle. RAL8000. MTC double turn counter clock wise locking turrets. Mil/Mil. Can see krylon paint residue slightly in places. ****SOLD**** shipped.

Attachments

  • IMG_4920.jpeg
    IMG_4920.jpeg
    3.6 MB · Views: 46
  • IMG_4921.jpeg
    IMG_4921.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 46
  • IMG_4924.jpeg
    IMG_4924.jpeg
    3.5 MB · Views: 47
  • IMG_4922.jpeg
    IMG_4922.jpeg
    1.5 MB · Views: 45
  • IMG_4925.jpeg
    IMG_4925.jpeg
    3.6 MB · Views: 51

Using Tape on the back of a loaded round to check or set headspace. . . .

When proper Headspace gauges are not available, this is a pretty widely used method of spitballing a sorta-close headspace. It has been used for a long time and is considered a rough cheat code to make sure the HS is in the right zip code.

My concern recently is that we have been seeing ammo quality (consistency specifically ) being all over the place. Seemingly in the last 20yrs it has gotten worse instead of better. Maybe because of 2 or 3 back to back ME wars and the producers not taking time to PM their machines and double check QC processes as much. (?)

Anyway . . . . . . . my point is that I have a literal pile of factory ammo that won't go into correctly headspaced factory chambers.

The worst offender is Hornady but I have a few Federal, Win and even Sig.
These rounds look perfect visually but are too long on the shoulder datum -> headstamp dimension. We have also seen a few that are too short on the opposite of that dimensional spectrum to the point they are inducing ignition problems.

I don't think using such a round with tape on the rear to "set" or check headspace would be "dangerous" but if the sample cartridge was out of spec, it could cause excessive brass stretch.
It could even cause the phone to ring at shops like Wade's to bitch about an out of spec chamber that is actually in spec.

@spife7980 I'm not arguing or trying to bust your chops. Just sharing my personal thoughts based on personal concerns and experience, neither of which proves I'm right. So this post is simply meant as food for thought and a "rumble strip" warning to proceed cautiously for the novices.

Run N Gun rifle - Plan B/Rearden vs Area 419 Hellfire

BLUF: Does anyone run Hellfires on lightweight gas guns? I see them all the time on heavy bolt guns. I'm trying to figure out if my use case is appropriate.

I've just picked up my first suppressor (B&T Print-XH) and so I need to switch my muzzle devices over to something compatible and have to pick a brake. I mostly compete in Run N Gun matches where length and weight are critical. I'm a high performer and frequently place on the podium, so I spend more time than some folks optimizing gear.

I expect to run about 80% unsuppressed so my primary criteria is brake performance, not as a suppressor host. Cans are heavy & hot and both of those are disadvantages in a RnG match when you have to run 5-10 miles with the risk of burning your leg carrying a slung rifle with a blazing hot can after a 45 round stage. However, I still want to be able to attach a suppressor on occasion for night matches, etc. I need to outfit 5 rifles. I was originally gonna go with Rearden SPB muzzle brakes and a Wolfpack Low Profile HUB Adapter (lightweight, minimum OAL) and call it a day, but the Hellfire system has caught my eye.

Performance: Hellfire wins, but only slightly
I believe that the Hellfire will stabilize the muzzle better under recoil with less dot movement and allow faster follow up shots. (Based on my experience having shot a 5.56 with SPB and a 6ARC with 3 Port hellfire on them and the 6arc was smoother). On the other hand, the extra weight hanging off the muzzle will absolutely slow down the swing on transitions. Those of you who don't compete may scoff at this, but stages are won and lost by tenths of a second, so these small factors do matter.

Resilience/Durability: I think it's a tie
Any plan B muzzle device has exposed threads that can be damaged and RnG matches are brutal on gear. Whereas there are no exposed threads on Hellfire. But with a Hellfire system and suppressor, there's no sacrificial baffle to protect the can to take some of the abuse to the can with a short barrel (which is where the majority of my usage will be). So I think these factors balance out.

Price: Hellfire wins
The difference here isn't enough to sway me 1 way or the other, so it's a moot point, but just to be thorough.... It would be $300 for Hellfire (I would buy a 2 Port Hellfire + 4x universal adapters). It would be $400 for Plan B (5x Rearden SPB). I only plan on buying 1 Hellfire brake, at least to start, since it's so easy to swap the brake from rifle to rifle - basically QD.

Length and Weight: Plan B wins
The Hellfire 2 port brake is 2.5x heavier (4.1 oz compared to 1.7 oz) and 0.6" longer than an SPB.

Thoughts?

Longer COAL on Rem 700

I was doing some tinkering around with my Rem 700 in 7-300 win mag earlier today with bullet measurements. The smith who built the rifle didn't really throat it properly unfortunately. On the flip side of that, its also probably the best shooting rifle I've ever owned. When I had it built 10 years ago, my plan was to shoot the 162 amax from the 28" Bartlein 9 twist. There were no really good high bc bullets other than the 168/180 bergers back then. Anyway, the 162 amax hit the lands at around 3.450" which is very short, and the bullet is seated way down in the case. I shot them for 7 years or so before finally switching to the 180g ELDMs. These hit the lands around 3.5" But again, these are seated very very deep in the case. The dreaded "donut" got me thinking well just how far out do these 180s need to be seated to not be in that area? I haven't experienced donut issue yet from the Nosler brass that's been fired about 10x, but just got me curiois anyway. From my crude measurements I'm coming up with around 3.750" which is a tad bit longer than you can fit, feed, and function through the factory mag. I'm well aware of Wyatts extended box mags as I had to have one for my 338 EDGE/300g SMK build years ago. I think that allowed me to get to 3.8" or so. I'm just wondering if that is the most cost effective way to get a longer COAL? I have a McMillan A5 stock, but it's just inletted for the standard BDL bottom metal. Would it be worth it to convert to M5 AICS mag setup? Can a guy install the Wyatts mag box himself? The M5 detach mag set ups are pretty spendy from my limited research. Could I have a smith go in and just ream out the throat to the new desired length? And if so, could that potentially be a risk on ruining how it shoots?Here is a couple pictures to represent what I'm talking about with the bullet lengths.

20250729_161216.jpg


20250729_161002.jpg