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SOLD FW Arms Decapping Dies and Swage Foot (hold down) dies.

Purchased these to use with an Apex 10 (which ended up going back to Mark 7, because it is a poorly-designed product). The swage feet are out of stock everywhere.

Pricing:

$40 shipped for Auto Centering Dies. (ONE SOLD, ONE REMAINING).
$65 shipped for Swage Feet (first one to call dibs gets to choose color).

$100 for one of each.


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Where to buy a short fb 6.5prc reamer

Hope I'm posting in the right place.

3 years ago I rented the 6.5prc"GAP" reamer from 4d rentals. Time for a rebarrel but they no longer offer this configuration. It was the one with the .130fb and I think a smaller neck dimension. Id like that fb or even a little shorter if possible but i have waited to long and am now in a time crunch. Im hoping someone has one that theyd sell or maybe knows where one is in stock.
Im not sure if they'd sell me one but I left a message at GAP, haven't heard back yet.
Please and Thanks
Nathan

Reloading Help Needed

I'm new to reloading and I've found it can be loads (pun intended) of fun and the most frustrating thing ever. I'm trying to work up loads for my Seekins PH2 6.5 Creedmoor for NRL Hunter matches. I'm using 3 times fired Hornady brass (140 ELDM Match boxes originally). Using Hornady FL Custom Grade dies, sizing the cases first, and then installing the expander mandrel to open the necks. I have Federal Match LRP primers and I'm using H4350.

First I worked up 50 rounds, 5 rounds each from 40.1 to 41.0. At 40.2 (8.2 ES and 3.3 SD) and 40.3 (11.4 ES and 3.9 SD) I had very good ES and SD, and the groups were not bad, about 1 MOA. For the 40.2 I had an average of 2673.7 FPS and a min/max of 2669.5/2677.7 and for the 40.3 I had an average of 2682.6 FPS and Min/Max of 2677.6/2689.0

All rounds are chrono'd using a Garmin Xero by the way

So I went back and worked up 50 more rounds, 10 with the exact same seating and 40.2 gn, and then played with the seating .020" front and back of the original seating depth (COAL was 2.800 on my first load rounds) to dial in some accuracy. What I got was an absolute mess and makes me want to go back to buying boxes lol.

The first 5 rounds, which were supposed to be identical to the rounds that shot an ES and SD of 8.2 and 3.3, now gave me a ES of 39.0 and SD of 14.0! Okay I thought that was a fluke of some sort, so I did the next 5 rounds which were also identical charge and seating depth to the 8.2/3.3 rounds and this time I got SD of 26.7, ES of 10.2. This continued to through the entire 50 rounds of 40.2 and 40.3, ES's in the high 20's or 30's, SD's in the teens. And then, all of a sudden, I got a load of 40.3, CBTO of 2.172 at ES of 9.2 and SD of 3.2. Every other load with the exact same powder charge was all over the map.

Any suggestions here, I'm at my wits end. Do I go back and do another ladder with the powder? The only thing that I can think that changed was it was about 10 degrees colder on the second day, and the brass had been shot one more time obviously.

New Manners TCS-MAX

New Manners TCS-MAX for 2025…


Personally, I’m kind of underwhelmed, as the new one seems to balance exactly the same way as my first generation old one with the original steel rail they offered originally already does (the new one is just a little heavier overall). The new one just seems to help fix the problem with the newer TCS stocks that come with the lighter aluminum rails they moved to over the last couple/few years being tough to balance right (which was a poor decision to move to IMHO when compared to the early steel railed ones).

Things I think were missed or weren’t addressed are the grip to trigger distance is still too long for anyone who doesn’t wear XL-sized gloves, and I was hoping they’d make the forearm longer to get the bipod out further and add more real estate, maybe with mlok on the sides instead of the Sike’s rails to add weights or whatever out front, etc. I also don’t dig that they require bottom metal now as the mini-chassis was already pretty sweet (it maybe just needed an adjustable mag catch for some).

SOLD Lyman Pro Die 9mm Pack + Universal Hold Down

I purchased these to use with an Apex 10 press, but could never get the press' primer system working correctly, so sent the press back to Mark 7.

But I have these dies left over. They've been used, but for under 500 rounds.


Pricing:

Both the Pro Die Set and the Universal Hold Down: $225 Shipped.
Pro Die Set only - $195 Shipped.
Hold Down Only - $40 shipped.
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For those that like Big Bore AR's... .458 Lott

While not a long range cartridge, I just thought others might in intrigued... or at least this is a way to start the year off with a bang.

Mr. Rumore has made them in 26 Nosler and a 33 Nosler, as well.

The .458 Lott is a brute of a cartridge. Making around 4800 ft/lbs with a 300gr bullet.. and around 5800 ft/lbs with a stiff 450gr load.

FWIW...I have fired a 500gr Hornady FMJ through 39" of solid pine.

And making in run in a "AR" platform is impressive.

Tony Rumore is a SME in Large Bore AR's, and now apparently, really big large bore AR's ... https://tromix.com/

I have to admit, if this was available for purchase today.... I might really "want" one.

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ES of 97?

So I had a load worked up for my 18" 6.5cm with 123 eld-x and 48gr of superformance. I tested the load back in probably... May, and it was spectacular, shot a half minute. Had a MV of 2919 over a 5-10 shot (I don't remember the incident) string, and excellent accuracy. So then I let my rifle sit in the closet with the ammo since without firing it. Yesterday I had time to run out to the range, and as I started moving out, my dope was obviously wrong. I backed up to 200y, confirmed zero, and it was good, and that's when I looked down at the garmin. I was getting 40fps variation from one round to the next. I ultimately ended up having an ES of 93 over 20 rounds. I've never even heard of such a thing. What could cause such ridiculous variance in velocity, other than bad powder measuring, (I am going to pull bullets and test powder charges just to be sure, but I'm very careful while loading, double checking the charge weights at least every 4 or 5 rounds). I doubt that's the problem. The brass was virgin sig brass. My buddy seems to think that it could be causing problems, but I've shot it for years without trouble. Where else should I look for this problem? Thank you

SOLD Kokopelli Scope Ring Alignment And Lapping Kits

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I purchased these way back when Based on this article.

I only ever used the scope alignment bars (never the lapping tools/paste, etc). And I only used those bars once per set. In other words, it's functionally "new".

"Mr. Kokopelli" was an older gentleman when I spoke to him and his website is no longer working. I hope he is doing well. He made a fine product.

Note that these are 1" and 30MM sets (sorry, no 34mm) They are very heavy as you would expect for a huge steel bar and aluminum bar stock.

$150 per set shipped CoNUS; Both sets for $275
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Question on components per application

I’m only using Lapua brass for my 338 Lapua. I’ve got an Annealeez on the way. My question pertains to various 308 loads.
I’m loading “bulk” 150 grain training ammo for the SCAR in range pickup brass that has been annealed, sized, and trimmed. I don’t expect better than 2 or 3 MOA from my 13” SCAR. Other loads are 125 grain controlled chaos for the SCAR (my real priority ammo), and 125 grain SST which is my training ammo to approximate the 125 controlled chaos in the SCAR.
I’m also loading 168 SMK for 600 and under in my 24” MRAD and 169 SMK for up to 1k in my MRAD.
My question pertains to brass. In addition to thousands of “bulk” cases, I’ve got 700 Federal cases from FGMM, I’ve got 500 NEW Lake City primed cases, I’ve got 500 once fired Norma cases, and 100 new Lapua cases. My thoughts were to use the Lapua for the 169. Originally I planned on using Lake City for the 168, but I keep hearing that Norma is better. The 125 grain rounds are more like 400 yards and in so I’m not sure if I should stick with Lake City for these? Or Federal? Or I’ve got more Norma loaded that I can practice with to produce more cases.
The Norma brass at this time was all fired from my SCAR. The FGMM was all fired from my MRAD.
My process is
Deprime, wet tumble without pins, anneal, lube, size with Redding type S bushing with expander ball removed, measure case, trim, chamfer, wet tumble without media, prime, graphite on case neck (should I also mandrel?) throw powder from Chargemaster Supreme, seat bullet with Forster micrometer die.
Thoughts? Suggestions?
I hope I’m not leaving anything out. It’s almost 2am.
I’m using a Wilson case gage micrometer and/or sinclair comparator.
The new primed brass will be run through the mandrel, graphite powder on the neck, throw powder, then seat.

I should add that the 150 grain bulk will not be loaded in that sequence since it will be loaded on a Dillon and I don’t trust the Dillon priming system. That ammo is the least of my worries, however.

SOLD ARC M-Brace rings 30mm / 1.26" high

Edit 2/1: both sets sold.

Recently swapped stocks on 2 rifles and these rings, while great on the old stock, were a bit too high on the new stock and weren't totally comfortable and the stock ran out of cheekrest adjustment so I swapped to lower rings.

Rings are 30mm, 1.26 high. Both sets of rings are mint and were mounted for about 4 months and only saw a couple of range sessions. I'm still trying to find the original boxes... I found the boxes for every other set of ARC rings and mounts I have but the boxes for these rings were not in the usual "boxes for gun stuff" spot in the shop.

Asking $145 per set, or $280 for both sets, price includes shipping and insurance. Payment via paypal F&F, zelle, USPS MO, or check (will ship when payment clears.)

1 set sold 1/27


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Firearms Daniel Defense DD5 V4

Daniel Defense DD5 V4

Caliber: 6.5 Creedmoor
Barrel: 18" 1:8 twist (40 rounds fired)
Muzzle Device: Surefire
Trigger: Geissele Match
2 magazines
Optic: Leupold M5HD 7-35 LaRue Mount
$4,300 total, will sell or trade together

Would rather trade for a PRS style bolt action setup chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor. (Foundation/MPA/AI/MDT/Manners/ Proof Research/etc.)
Feel free to message for more pictures.

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Firearms Cleaning out the parts bin: AR-10 receiver set, Centurion Arms Gen 1 CMR 14", Falcon Optics 4-14x44 FFP scope

Dirty Bird Industries DPMS High AR-10 receiver set with ambi bolt release- 250+cost of shipping
Falcon Optics 4-14x44 FFP scope with mil dot reticle- 200+cost of shipping
Centurion Arms Gen 1 CMR handguard 14"- 120+ cost of shipping

The front site on the CMR is a troy HK style battle sight, also up for grabs for $50+ cost of shipping

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Blueprinting actions!?

Ok, so I've read a gazillion threads, heard a gazillion things, and I'm still clueless as to the math. In the old days, folks spent a lot of money blueprinting an old Rem700 action. Now folks instead buy custom actions (for probably less than a Rem700 + blueprinting cost).

But what does blueprinting really do? I mean, I've got a basic b-14 HMR which shoots (I'm a total noob at precision shooting, so I'm happy with my .7 MOA [5 round] groups at 100, but he rifle is almost certainly more mechanically accurate than I can shoot). So I'm trying to understand this concept.

1. If you have a reasonably accurate rifle, does blueprinting make a difference in raw mechanical accuracy? Generally folks say it is 90% the barrel anyway, right? (totally ignoring that it is 99% the Indian and not the arrow - I'm talking mechanical accuracy)
2. If it doesn't make the gun more accurate, what's the $*#(ing point of spending money blueprinting it?
3. I'm not trying to start a flame war or provoke folks. I'm trying to understand something that nobody has really been able to explain to me. Well, a couple of somethings that nobody has been able to explain:
a. What to custom actions really do, at a raw functional level, that box store actions don't (assuming a box store action that at least cycles and loads rounds reliably and you can get a smith to fit a Bartlein to your cheap ass action and get sub 0.5 MOA accuracy)?
b. What does blueprinting do to a box store action (Remmie, Bergara, etc)? Like, I don't care if they are filing this and sanding that and giving the action a good time from 3 succubi summoned from the 5th circle of hell. What does that handjob blueprinting actually do in practical terms? And how does that compare to a custom action?

Again, I'm trying to just understand the practical matters. To me, smoother doesn't mean much at all. Unless the "rougher" action has problems loading or ejecting rounds. In which case I don't care about the "smoothness", just the result of FTFs when in a competition. Things like installing M4/M16 extractors onto your bolt face don't mean **** to me either when the old fashioned crap (not advocating FUDness here, just not wanting a solution to a problem that doesn't reallyu exist) has successfully pulled out 5k pieces of brass over two barrel lifespans without a single issue.

Cheers folks, and again: If I'm stirring the pot, I don't mean to (for its own sake). I'm really just trying to understand the reason people are spending lots of money on custom actions, or are still blueprinting older actions, vs not.