Primal Rights CPS- only used a couple times
One of the small primer feed tubes was bent during shipping to me, so I ordered a replacement. The original bent one is still serviceable, but you'll get both anyway.
It'll include the large and small primer shuttles, 2 large primer tubes, 2 small primer tubes (including the bent one), as well as a Lee shell holder set

**PENDING TRADE**
Asking 650 shipped
Please PM me to avoid scammers. Payment will be via venmo, zelle or PPFF with no comments

Possible trades/partial trades- berger 105 hybrids, ARC AICS mags, Henderson gen 3 trimmer

Stock came from a SA bergara B14. Was painted, but paint has been removed. Generic arca has been installed on the bottom of forend and will go with the stock.

Will include factory bottom metal and buttpad spacers

Asking 300 shipped
Please PM me to avoid scammers. Payment will be via venmo, zelle or PPFF with no comments

Looking for some general information on reloading for a short (18") 6.5 prc with 135 a Tips (156 berger load data also would be helpful). Mostly looking for powder recommendations as most data is for 24" Barrels and longer. I have quite a bit of varget, but see H1000, retumbo and N565 recommended a lot. Just not sure if these are still good routes to go for a short barrel. If anyone has any recommendations and can post starting loads and what speeds they are seeing from these shorter barrels it would be appreciated

Either one of you degenerates drive by the house and kick me in the nuts repeatedly or help me find a 14mm x 1 RH thread protector for this abomination I have.

I figured this would wind up in the Pit, so I short cut the mods and it will be more entertaining for the masses

Last of my H59s. Make the last irresponsible financial decision of the year right here!

Non illum 3.6-18 Horus H59 with box/sunshade/caps
Tier one long saddle 1.3” height 0 moa monomount.

1550$ tyd for the pair

4, brand new.

$35 each shipped or $125 shipped for all four.

SOLD

I have a rcbs matchmaster FL (bushing) sizing die. It has a decapping pin with an expander ball threaded into it.

Does anyone actually use that decapping pin/expander? Doesn’t it kind of defeat the purpose of a bushing ? What am I missing? I have just removed it all together.

My process is to use a universal decapping die to pop the primer, tumble, then a FL sizing die (shoulder bump of .002”) with proper bushing size, and then an expander mandrel to open the neck back up.

I am reloading precision ammo for prs, not bulk ammo .

Dropped my Tikka CTR at Bug Holes to be converted to 6 GT.

Anyone run a 6 GT in CTR mags?

Hello all,

I was an active member on this site about four years ago, but have been caught up with life and fell out of the sport for a while. Getting back into it and started a new account (can't remember my old account details).

I remember having some conversation on here with a machinist or two who was a manufacturer of AR receivers, but don't know if any are still around. I've got two questions. The first question is how do you all manufacturer matched receiver sets? I'm not talking about one of those nylon tipped screw things and calling a set a matched set, but an actual matched set without a gap or rattling. I was thinking the order of operations would be something like (prior to anodizing and drilling the take down pin holes), mate lowers and uppers to see if they fit together without a gap, and the ones that fit go to the next op where the pin holes are drilled (with the upper and lower clamped together), chamfered and de-burred. Then sent to anodizing. Is this the typical process?

The other question is regarding critical call outs. What are the critical dimensions of both the upper and lower receiver? I have a receiver that I've had issues with for years. I ended up completely stripping the thing and throwing all the parts onto another lower and the problem resolved itself. I mean I bought a new lower and put every part on the other lower and the issue of failing to lock the bolt back on the last round (with subsonic 300 blackout) was no longer an issue. I thought maybe something was just installed wrong initially or maybe a foreign object/debree was causing the problem , so I put the parts all back on the lower with the problem again, and same issue again. I read something on the White Oak website saying one culprit could be the bolt catch. Something about how if it's located wrong it could cause rubbing or something and slow the bolt, so maybe that's it, but really just looking for a list of what tolerances are highly important overall. At this point I'd consider the lower scrap if it wasn't a form 1...

Thanks in advance

I’ve got an RCBS Ammomaster that was my first press and I intend to keep it to load for my M82. I then bought a Dillon XL750 to load mainly bulk 9mm, 556, and 308 and have separate heads for each. The problem is that I’ve never been able to get the primer system to feed reliably and I’ve taken it apart, adjusted, and cleaned more times than I can count. Dillon helped me at one point, but as soon as I switched from pistol to rifle it wa right back to not picking up primers or shooting them across the room, or not seating them deep enough, and dumping 41 grains of TAC into the machine each time a primer doesn’t feed and I don’t catch it. I bought the Armonov block which helped for a while, but I’m done with it. I plan to prime cases off of the Dillon and then just feed primed lubed cases into the casefeeder.
Then I saw the Redding T7. That looks like it could save me a ton of time on my match grade stuff over the Ammomaster. My questions are… how does the primer fed system work? Does it auto feed them? I would be loading primarily 308 and 338 Lapua and would love not having to drop each individual primer into the primer cup.

Thank you!!

Anyone have any experience with them, how do they perform?

Would love to see some pictures.

Looking for a carbon or slim steal barrel for a Arc CDG.

3- leupold mark 5 5-25x56 pr-1 reticle. All glass is excellent as is scope bodies. Very slight marks at the most. One is in Spuhr sp5001 mount. $2000. Next is in Hawkins heavy tactical one piece mount with diving board and level. $1900. Last (I believe) is Hawkins ultra lite tactical 1” high rings with offset level top ring. $1750. I only have two sun shades so those will go to whoever wants them first. I would sell bare scopes for $1600. Would also sell mounts separate if wanted. Just reach out prices are shipped conus with PayPal f&f.

The years tick by.

Should ha d a toast for Frank for having the best shooting sight around

Looking for a prefit barrel for a American Rifle Company Coup De Grace action. I'm looking for a 6 creedmoor and 22 creedmoor. Prefer a carbon barrel but will entertain steel. Also if you know of any prefit barrels that are in stock please let me know. Thanks!

Who has one? how do you like? I used a friends today, worked great.

Glock 17 gen 4 not an MOS version

Front slide serrations added
RMR cut added
Trijicon suppressor height night sights
5r threaded barrel
Apex flat trigger set
Scale stippling
Double under cut
Aluminum mag well
Magpul mag

$700



Available to buyer @ additional cost

Holosun HS507C x2 ACSS Vulcan reticle

Streamlight TLR-1 HL

Harrells Premium Powder Measure

I believe this is the Premium, not the BR.

$old shipped/insured

Due to spammers, please PM me first.

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Local police found him and beat the fuck out of him because - well because .

Hey guys if you know me I'm always researching in the National Archives for Marine Weapon info. I've been hitting the National Archives lately on the M40 series of rifles and I've been able to find a lot of new info on them.

One thing I have found at the National Archives (that I'm really excited about) is how to date M40A1's. So if you have a Return stock, if you give me the last four on the stock I can date it. Before anyone says anything, it is possible stocks were swapped, but this does not seem very likely by the docs. In seems rare a stock was swapped. But this case study will see if I am correct.

After seeing the post on the new run of smears and seeing all 50 stocks in one post, I thought this would be a lot of fun to do the same kind of post on the Return Stocks.

If you guys post your return stock (with a similar angle side shot as those below) I will take the photo, edit it, and then put it into this post in order. I just think it would be a lot of fun to put the stocks in order and see the change of McMillian over time. Like for instance they say the earliest were more green. We can now see if that is correct by charting it.

So to get this started, a few of the ones I've seen lately. If you have one, please add it to this post with the last four of the serial. If you want to be private, just message me the info and I can add it publically, or I will keep it private for my own research. Whichever you prefer.


June 1977


July 1977 (Remington Ax)


August 1977 (Skunk)


Sept 1977



Sept 1977 (Skunk)



March 1978 (tfont48)


Sept 1979



Painted Smear, Feb 1980



Oct 1980



Sept 1980 (Sniff, number only on buttplate, "Avail" written in the barrel channel)



Aug 1995 (only a partial pic)



April 1998 (Charlie112)



Dec 1999



Jan 2000 Painted Woodland



May 2000 (Random Guy)



July 2001

What does a dirty silencer look like? I mean a silencer that really needs cleaning?

I have two silencers, and I have only used one so far: a Banish 22. I have probably run 200 Mini-mags through it. Someone somewhere told me it should be cleaned at around this point.

I opened it up, and I would guess there is around a tenth of a gram of crud in it. I looked at some sites describing the problems with dirty silencers, and they said one issue was the weight of the crud. Since there is nearly no crud in my silencer, my best guess is that I am nowhere near the point where it actually needs cleaning, so the real must-clean round figure is probably more like 20000 than 200.

But I don't really know.

I know this: CLR really does work without scrubbing. It knocked the carbon off my baffles with no effort. I got a jug, and I'm going to use it for silencers and nothing else. I'll soak the parts in it and pour it back in the jug, I'll reuse it until it quits working. I tried ammonia, citric acid, and Oxy-clean, and they did nothing. I haven't tried powdered brewery wash, which removes nearly anything, but it's expensive.

Is anyone aware of a ADM or similar mount to replace the ARMS mount that comes on the PVS 22? I hate the ARMS lever mounts and would love to replace it with a ADM.

Shot a match with the owner of recoilx this past fall where he had one of his prototype units and it caught my interest. I had a chance to buy a unit this last week and took it up for some testing.

Overall it performs really well... obviously slight noise penalty but very effective. I felt like it was pretty close to the best of both worlds between shooting fully suppressed vs just a brake only.

I was able to stay on target in the glass through the full recoil off a few positions and can't wait to try it on a bigger 30 cal soon.

I was using a silencerco hybrid 46 with their 30 cal self timing brake.

On a gas gun 223 it had noticably less back pressure than just my front end cap alone which I thought was interesting.

Seems like a legit option for those of us with cans already vs buying something like the maverick straight up. I have been primarily shooting a tbac can but will probably run a can with a Recoilx brake on it this season.

Not affiliated in anyway with recoilx but I think the owner is a stand up guy from my interactions with him and I like supporting solid products from good folks.



@RecoilXBrakes

I’m looking for a bag/barricade stop that mounts to ARCA.

Message me if you have one to sell.