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Criterion barrel brass pressure signs

I recent did a build with a criterion pencil 16" mid gas 223w chrome lined. Initial impressions were good, a quick borescope through the bore reviled no obvious defects. It has been shooting factory ammo noticeably better than some of my BA barrels.

The second range day out, I ended up popping several primers causing the FCG to get jammed up. Upon recovering the brass, I found 5 pieces without the primer (out of ~200 rounds), and almost all had ejector swipes. This was winchester/lake city m193. I also tried some pmc x-tac m193 and still got aggressive ejector swipes, but no popped primers (out of 50 rounds). Historically I have found the pmc x-tac to be on the lighter side (chrono 2950 out of a 16", 3120 out of a 20"). I tried this factory ammo in several other know good guns and zero issues with ejector swipes or pressure signs.

I had some really light reloads with virgin starline 556 brass that I used for the first shots in order to start burnishing out the reamer marks in the throat/lands area before making any accuracy assessments. No pressure signs using that ammo. "break in" process and zero pressure signs with that stuff. By "break in" I just mean getting a few hundred round down the barrel before making any accuracy assessments or starting load development.

other info about the new criterion build:
SOLGW BCG
adjustable gas
a5 buffer system w/A5H2, new sprinco green buffer spring

I'm wondering what to do at this point... The only obvious things I can think of is contact criterion or try a larger variety of factory ammo.

Reloading dies for 6.5 cm

Hey everyone, completed my first custom bolt gun build in 6.5 cm a few days ago, and I want to get a set of reloading dies for it. I’ve been doing some searching on the forums and I’m seeing some mixed opinions, so I thought I would make a post. What does everyone use? I was looking at the RCBS match master set, but I read on here that collet resizing dies can add a lot of runout on the neck of the case, and can cause more trouble than they’re worth. What would be the best way to go?

25x47 or 6.5x47 for NRL Hunter

I'm about to order a barrel for NRL hunter matches and I'm torn between the 6.5x47 Lapua or the 25 cal version.

Given the power factor requirements I'd have to send a 134 around 2840, or I could shoot a heavier 6.5 like a 144 lrht at 2650.

I guess what I'm really hung up on is whether or not a lighter 25 cal bullet going 2850 offers any advantage in terms of recoil or ballistics over a slow high bc 6.5?

6,5x47 Lapua brass forming from...?

Hello to all,
now are a bad historical tyme for shooting and ammo reloading, components are too expensive or not availlable respect some years on the past...

The bad situation are more amplified for all the non "commercial" calibers like 6,5x47 Lapua.

100pcs of 6,5x47 Lapua now start from 145€ plus shipping, and other brand are more expensive than Lapua...

I tried to forming some .308 to x47 Lapua but more neck to form and trim are tedious ...., turning the neck need some extra stuff...
Parent case like .243 are the same...
22-250 are unvaillable from the range and the brand new are expensive like the 6,5x47 Lapua..
Remain the 6,5 Creedmoor, 2mm more on lenght maibe are not a problem for the neck thikness(?)

Can someone have tried to for an x47 Lapua case fro a 6,5 Creedmoor, with wath result?

I dont like buy some extra stuff only for shooting gong.

Regards, Camillo

SOLD Schmidt & Bender PMII Ultra Short 5-20 with Spuhr Mount

No trades, thank you.

Horus 3 Reticle with Spuhr Mount: $3900

Used one time on a Desert Tech that previously had had a different optic. Zeroed, checked dope and put it back in the case.

Just now realizing that I didn't take a photo of the end of the box with the label, but it you zoom in on the last picture, you can see the model number on the sticker on the upper left side. Used one time on a Desert Tech that previously had had a different optic. Selling with the Spuhr Mount.

For a serious buyer, I will remove from the mount and take photos to show full scope body, but I think you'll get the idea of the overall near-perfect condition of the scope from the photos.

Mount is Spuhr SP-4636 which is the 20.6 MOA version made specifically for the S&B Ultra Short.

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Destination matches?

Looking for some ideas on unique matches or locations around the US. Been shooting in the local Wyoming and Colorado prs type matches for a few years. Also shot the steel safari, team safari, and a guardian match. Looking to try some new locations that offer a unique experience or venue.

So far on my list is K&M and Altus. What other suggestions do you guys have to add to my bucket list? Doesn’t need to be PRS type matches but want to focus on long range rifle.

Also not in my prime anymore so not looking for 100 mile death marches. Could be more intense than steel safari but not crazy.

Unexplained elevation shift, reason?

This may be long but bear with me please. Yesterday I shot a finale and on my last stage of the day my misses were all high 2 mils. This was a barricade timed stage 400 yards and 500 yards on 8” plates. Grass behind so not much for feedback as I was missing I adjusted for wind only a couple tenths and nothing for elevation. Scored zero and after spotter said I was high.
Stage before was a roof and I did well for me 8 out of 10, it was a no dial stage so I had pushed down my elevation turret before shooting that stage which I normally leave it up unlocked. After stage I lifted it then dialed zero.
Confused why I was suddenly high, after our squad finished, I laid prone and shot ten rounds out to see where on those targets or how much I was off.
At the 500 yard target I had to hold center as wind was from behind, and it was 2 mils high. That is a lot
My dope was correct, no problem there.

Got home checked torque on all screws, set screws, action, rings, rail bolts and also muzzle brake tight, no problems. Barrel looks clean and clear.

It is a Terminus Zeus QC, 6 Dasher 105 hybrid in once fired Alpha OCD , Proof prefit in an MDT ACC with gen 2 Razor HD

I’m not sure if the elevation cap had something to do with this, it is unexplainable to me.

I suppose next is take it to my range and confirm zero at 100, maybe do a test at distance with a level line adjusting elevation for each shot, ladder test I suppose?

Before the match I zeroed and it was fine.
Rifle did not get bumped or fall over that I know of after the previous roof stage.
Stage before this all was fine.
Any suggestions I thank you for any help or advice.

Incredibly random yet oddly specific question- this one targeting longterm hockey fans...

There's no two ways about this question- but for longtime hockey fans here I have a question about going to games of yesteryear and wondering if my memory is paying tricks on me. As a brief preamble- as "I" remember it, when I started going to hockey games decades ago- the ice rink was always... well colder and you just knew you had to dress a little warm and be wearing at least a sweatshirt while attending a game.


Fast-forward to 2024- for the first time in my life, I purchased season tickets to the local AHL team that I grew up watching (usually a game or two a year) and (1) admittedly this is a 'newish' stadium but (2) and the reason I'm asking, I would have absolutely been cooking had I worn anything other than a t-shirt at tonight's game.

I have no idea if my memory is playing tricks on me or if things just changed with how hockey rinks were maintained but danged if I don't remember having to dress warmly decades ago.

Can anyone here share their experience on hockey games and (if possible) relate that to how I remember things?

-LD
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Best Rubber AR-15 Picatinny Rail Covers ?

This may seem trivial, but A LOT of these things are all but impossible to get on after installing a 4 rail forend. All of my older, (pre Cerberus), Bushmaster AR's came with them already installed.

I just installed a UTG Carbine Length Delta Ring, 4 rail forend on one of my AR's, and I'm very happy with it. But the rail covers that came with it are all but impossible to get on. (These are the full radiused rubber covers. Not the ladder type).

Has anyone else struggled with this? Are there some that fit better than others? Or are they all a pain in the ass? I don't want to use oil, or anything water based, for fear of it dripping on the barrel, and causing rusting issues. Or have the oil deteriorate the rubber.

If anyone has any tricks on installing these things, I'd love to hear them... Thanks in advance.

Sauer 100 improper bolt installation and removal method

Sauer 100 bolt removal from improper insertion.
I have installed my bolt 90 degrees counter-clockwise to the proper way - now it cannot be removed. Done this twice!
The problem -The groove normally at the left side where the bolt release is (where the bolt release engages this groove) is now located at the bottom 6 o'clock position. The trigger sear is now engaged into the groove and stops the bolt being removed. The trigger sear spring must be pushed down via some appropriate tool you can find to be pushed in from the rear at he bottom/underside/ 6 o'clock position of the bolt and push down the sear. The bolt firing pin must be cocked. This is an except from Sauer 100 manual saying the same thing. I thought I would share my dilemma. I am sure I am not the only person experiencing this as it is easily done by mistake
32100.02
Fault: Chamber is jammed
Possible cause
Remedy:
The chamber has been incorrectly inserted
and the chamber capturing groove engages
in the trigger sear. The chamber cannot turn
any longer.
Take a thin object (e.g. 1.5 mm Allen
key), insert it under the chamber in the
rectangular groove until the tool meets
some resistance. Gently press the tool
approximately 1 cm further in. This
pushes the trigger sear down. Turn the
chamber slightly to the right. Remove
the tool, turn the chamber to the right
until it snaps into the correct position
(image 17).

Ti - QD taper mount w/Ti brake

So, just wanted to show the new Titanium QD set up I am trying out. I got 3 sets. SD Tactical is where I got em.

Pretty cool and machined really nice. The brake is a lot like a Ti cherry bomb, and the taper mount fits really well and is also very nicely machined. You can get whatever colors in either.

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