Dirty little rotten Chinese! Not gonna lie, took the wind out of my sails, but I realize mistakes can be made. Vendor is making it right and shipping me one but won’t be here till Mon/Tues
Night Vision IRay RH25 Micro video/picture thread
- Thread starter Surgeon_Shooter
- Start date
You received only one out of those two smaller boxes ?Well… just received my Iray, ready to hit the range with it tomorrow and Saturday…. But that’s not happening…. someone forgot the main piece to mount it up
It’s so close to running yet so farView attachment 7845398
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Yep only one adm box. I thought that little shoe or whatever was suppose to come with Iray itself?? However. It wasn’t with the Iray nor with the adm mount. They just forgot it all together.
Here’s the piece I’m missing.
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Use the standard mount. Works just fine, only a little higher.Well… just received my Iray, ready to hit the range with it tomorrow and Saturday…. But that’s not happening…. someone forgot the main piece to mount it up
It’s so close to running yet so far
I would have sent both mounts had you got it from meWell… just received my Iray, ready to hit the range with it tomorrow and Saturday…. But that’s not happening…. someone forgot the main piece to mount it up
It’s so close to running yet so far
Lol I have no doubt you would’ve!I would have sent both mounts had you got it from me
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...aaaand that would be what they're calling the "PICTAIL", optional, but IMHO should just come with the unit, because it's the install-it-and-forget-it solution. Half-Wilcoxy Dovetail, Half-1913 Rail (sorta).
1.) You could just use the machinegun mount + the MUM rail and gotten up and shooting until your PICTAIL shows up.
2.) I just modeled my own version of a PICTAIL-ish mount, printed it in engineering grade, carbon-fiber doped nylon filament, because – even though I have the stock PICTAIL – I can't leave well enough alone.
3.) I'm gonna head out and look for coyotes again tonight with this optic. We don't have hogs in Idaho, so I'm lacking good murderfootage like y'all Texans can, apparently, film at will... but we have elk and deer, so there's that.
I had a ADM mount off my Nox 35 and the holes lined up..so now it's perfect height and lighter
When recording video, is there a way to display the Iray reticle show it show on the videos?
Anymore vidyas of these fellas? I want one in black hot.
Unfortunately, I don't have any game animals or varmints just outside my door right now, but for some reason, there were teenagers making noise and bouncing on a trampoline at midnight down the hill 177 yards from my house. So... black hot, midnight-trampolining truants you get!
Color Palettes, iRay RH25 Micro
Nick Chen (I think he also posts here, his instagram handle is @solscud007) has some interesting videos on his instagram showing his testing of the RH25. In one of the videos you can see that the video recording feature does not like recoil. The video cuts out with every shot.
He said he is working on a full review article for The Firearm Blog.
He said he is working on a full review article for The Firearm Blog.
All you gotta do is text me buddy! I’ll send some over to ya tonight.
The ATACR 1-8x really loves the RH-25. I’m running the ATACR on a C1 1.93” mount. Ironically, the included RH25 mount (not the dovetail QD mount) is almost exactly 1.93” (probably 1.85-1-90) and mates perfectly to the scope.
8x is fully usable with the Choodoo. Not quite as good as the Voodoo, but pretty close.
8x is fully usable with the Choodoo. Not quite as good as the Voodoo, but pretty close.
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https://www.primaryarms.com/primary-arms-slx-flip-to-side-magnifier-mount-1-14in-2-bolt-interface
Any way this could be mated to the RH25?
Any way this could be mated to the RH25?
Is it possible to mount a RH25 to the objective of a optic? I have a r700 w/ 4-16x42 atacr in a spuhr mount, short of getting a embedded front rail what are my options?
How would this thermal perform on a higher power optic like this if left on 4x-6x?
How would this thermal perform on a higher power optic like this if left on 4x-6x?
Man that’s the expensive option! I’ve got half a roll of duck tape!Well there is always a way.
JB Weld works wonders on many difficult situations.
This should work
Spuhr A-700 NV Clip on Adaptor
Spuhr A-700 (A-0700): NV clip-on adaptor allows adjust the angle of the A-700 from 0 to 13 MIL to achieve the same tilt as the ISMS mount.
www.milehighshooting.com 
I’m going to make this work by egging out one screw hole on a Samson mount to fit a Yoter-C. Don’t see why you couldn’t (possibly) do the same for the RH25. Either with the PA or a Samson. The holes on the Samson are 1.1” apart (center to center) and 1.1811” on the Yoter-C. Also, having a machine shop replicate the top plate with proper spacing for the screws is also an option I suppose.
Quick Release Thermal Flip-to-Side Base
Check out the deal on Quick Release Thermal Flip-to-Side Base at Samson Manufacturing
www.samson-mfg.com
Man I’m really liking this set up! Hefty hefty hefty though lol. LMT is beastly to begin with, but as it sits, it’s 11lbs 2oz
It will not perform well. The voodoo s really starts to lose resolution at 4x optical and above.....and it has more backend demag than the RH25/functions better as a clip on. You'd be best served with an LPVO. I find the best mix of image performance/optical mag are with LPVOs at 2x magnification (when you fill up thr display completely in your day optic) and 3x magnifier used with a holographic sight/red dot (for fixed magnification). There is a BIG jump in image res loss between 2x and 3x, and also between 3x and 4x optical with the voodoo.....so that should hold over with the RH25. My other favorite is mounting it in front of a 1.5x16 acog on my MP5 clone.
I don't have an RH25 in hand, but I do have a voodoo. Here are some images. First three are with an eotech/G33 magnifier close up (5 yards) and the second is with a Vortex 1-10 Razor @ roughly 2x optical mag.
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Coolrunner Bugle HornLink to the horn please sir. Gotta get me one of those.
Got one coming. No more count downs for my buds. When the horn stops blowing shoot.
It works really well. You just gotta be careful not to do a negligent honk while you're hopping out of the truck or slinging your rifle.Got one coming. No more count downs for my buds. When the horn stops blowing shoot.
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Hopefully you ordered tactical pink.Got one coming. No more count downs for my buds. When the horn stops blowing shoot.
I’d be interested to see how this would work.This should work
Spuhr A-700 NV Clip on Adaptor
Spuhr A-700 (A-0700): NV clip-on adaptor allows adjust the angle of the A-700 from 0 to 13 MIL to achieve the same tilt as the ISMS mount.
Looks like some serious fun!Link to the horn please sir. Gotta get me one of those.
Just copied over a bunch of videos (via USB, which works great) and seeing some weird stuff maybe some of the dealers could comment on. Every single video file, no matter the length, is exactly 100.7mb in size. The device appears to be ramping the bitrate to fit this given file size. It's not splitting long videos up (longest I recorded was 4:31 so maybe it does a new file at 5min or something), it's just setting the bitrate for each file separately to match this file size.
Any way to change that, so I could for example choose a given bitrate and stick with it, or will I always see reduced video quality when recording longer clips? Here's some screenshots where you can see all the videos are the same size and the 8sec clip is 8.5mb/sec versus 2.3mb/sec for the 4min one.
Overall super impressed with the recorded video files - being 50fps is awesome and they're super crispy compared to what I've gotten from other devices, just figured I'd check with you guys to see if anyone had any ideas. Oh, and I've got a bunch of Disney World footage I'll upload here this week - thought it'd be fun showing off the device in an unusual setting.
Any way to change that, so I could for example choose a given bitrate and stick with it, or will I always see reduced video quality when recording longer clips? Here's some screenshots where you can see all the videos are the same size and the 8sec clip is 8.5mb/sec versus 2.3mb/sec for the 4min one.
Overall super impressed with the recorded video files - being 50fps is awesome and they're super crispy compared to what I've gotten from other devices, just figured I'd check with you guys to see if anyone had any ideas. Oh, and I've got a bunch of Disney World footage I'll upload here this week - thought it'd be fun showing off the device in an unusual setting.
That's interesting. Do you notice quality degradation on longer videos? Maybe even the lower bitrate files are excellent? The manual does say the unit will begin recording a new file automagically after 5 mins.
Oh, and for anyone wondering, manual also states the unit DOES NOT record audio, though there is some sort of gross distorted electrical noise present on all of the recorded video files.
Oh, and for anyone wondering, manual also states the unit DOES NOT record audio, though there is some sort of gross distorted electrical noise present on all of the recorded video files.
Yeah it’s slightly degraded in the longer videos, not quite as crispy. Correct, it’s just got a solid “out of band” tone recorded on all the tracks that I turn off in my video editing software. Not sure if it could be carrying data. Maybe a secret broadcast back to
I went and video'd a ten minute, boring clip of a silencer heating up when fired and then cooling down just to see what happens. Yep: at 5:00 minutes, it just keeps on recording, but the timer resets and the optic starts a new file. So it breaks all long videos into five-minute chunks. No biggie, it's easy to work with the smaller files, they're all chronological in the memory.
I imported them into FCPX editing software, and resolution didn't look wrong, nothing looked weird with the files. There is an audio track, which is silent, except it "pops" when the footage starts. (Right click, "remove audio" and you're in business...)
Apparently, if you record video through the app you can include audio from the phone's mic though, if you desire narration, gunfire, or whatnot.
The background audio track isn't creepy at all...
So I have a Yoter R (my only thermal) and thinking about flipping it to put towards a RH25... good idea? My thought process is this, so tell me if it’s faulty.
I set my Yoter R on about 4-5 guns. 22LR, 5.56, a .308 (a Tavor7 so not exactly a “tack driver”) and a 6.5CM. I recon the Yoter R could reach out >750yds if needed with 640px and that big 3x50mm objective. Heck, I zeroed the thing using hand warmers at 200yd actual (with the .308, 5.56 and 6.5CM) and had enough zoom/clarity to be putting rounds onto the hand warmers @200 at will.
But here’s the thing, the 22LR/5.56/.308 are either not practically accurate or powerful beyond about 400yds. And the 6.5CM is NOT a handy gun (>50” and probably over 18LB kitted out) ... it’s really more of a precision build.
so the Yoter R is giving me great zoom and clarity, but a narrow FOV and range I’m not really using. My dual tubes on my head start to lose effectiveness 50-100 yards out and the Yoter R is my only thermal so I’m effectively scanning with my rifle through a straw.
And ever since the 2x35mmYoter came out I’ve been thinking of changing over to that for more FOV and smaller size and the 2x35 Yoter would still let me reach out 500+ yards or so. But now this RH25 comes along and seems to be 350-400yd capable on bigger critters mounted in front of a 1-6x or 1-8x. WAY smaller than a Yoter C with more flexibility plus I already have a spare -14 monocular I keep as a loaner that I could bridge up with a RH25. Helmet mount for scanning and then stick on rifle for the longer shots when needed.
Should I switch to the RH25 or switch over to the 2x35 Yoter? Or stick with my 3x50 Yoter R and pick up a small 320/384px small scanner for <$2k?
I set my Yoter R on about 4-5 guns. 22LR, 5.56, a .308 (a Tavor7 so not exactly a “tack driver”) and a 6.5CM. I recon the Yoter R could reach out >750yds if needed with 640px and that big 3x50mm objective. Heck, I zeroed the thing using hand warmers at 200yd actual (with the .308, 5.56 and 6.5CM) and had enough zoom/clarity to be putting rounds onto the hand warmers @200 at will.
But here’s the thing, the 22LR/5.56/.308 are either not practically accurate or powerful beyond about 400yds. And the 6.5CM is NOT a handy gun (>50” and probably over 18LB kitted out) ... it’s really more of a precision build.
so the Yoter R is giving me great zoom and clarity, but a narrow FOV and range I’m not really using. My dual tubes on my head start to lose effectiveness 50-100 yards out and the Yoter R is my only thermal so I’m effectively scanning with my rifle through a straw.
And ever since the 2x35mmYoter came out I’ve been thinking of changing over to that for more FOV and smaller size and the 2x35 Yoter would still let me reach out 500+ yards or so. But now this RH25 comes along and seems to be 350-400yd capable on bigger critters mounted in front of a 1-6x or 1-8x. WAY smaller than a Yoter C with more flexibility plus I already have a spare -14 monocular I keep as a loaner that I could bridge up with a RH25. Helmet mount for scanning and then stick on rifle for the longer shots when needed.
Should I switch to the RH25 or switch over to the 2x35 Yoter? Or stick with my 3x50 Yoter R and pick up a small 320/384px small scanner for <$2k?
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I really think that a Breach would cover your helmet mounted scanning needs so you don’t have to give up any performance in the weapon mounted thermal category. That 50mm objective on the super Yoter really does something performance-wise that can’t be duplicated with a small objective lense thermal.
Plus you are talking about pulling off the RH25 to use on a helmet and back to rifle again for shots. You might as well just QD the super Yoter off and scan with it, and then mount it again once you found your target. Loss of zero is a non issue. If you don’t want to scan with the yoter off, then just get a helmet mounted unit and be done with it.
I would much rather have 1 HMT & 1 RMT instead of a unit that has to go back and forth from helmet to rifle all the time. Sounds nifty until you are in the field, in the dark, swapping everything around before a shot on something.
From a guy who wanted a RH25 until I picked up a super Yoter. I’ve owned the MH25 and wasn’t impressed (to say it nicely), it made me hesitant to drop $6k on the RH25. Especially if the screen and menu are the same size as the MH25. I have a feeling the RH25 does everything, just not well.
The RH25 absolutely has its place I think. If my situation dictated a absolute minimalist and lightweight setup, with only room in a bag for 1 thermal, I would likely opt for it. It seems to shine in more of a “tactical” role as opposed to a serious hunting role. Something you could keep in your chest rig and use whenever a situation called for it.
All of the above is just my humble opinion, and coming from more of a practical use/hunting perspective. No possible WW3 on US soil scenarios are dictating my decision making processes…. Yet.
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Yeah, after a bit more ruminating, this seems like the smart play.
The necessity (and $$$) of 640px seems much less necessary on a scanner/clip-on if I’ve got a much beefier 640 unit weapon mounted. For the same $2k it would cost to migrate from the Yoter to the RH25, I could just get a 320/384px little helmet/handheld like the ML19, or Breach, etc...
Use it on my head to scan with and then PID/shoot through the 3x50 Yoter. In the end still have the same investment except with much stronger range capability and no FOV disability when scanning. A good 384 scanner should detect well past 500+ and even recognize at 300+ yards.
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The Breach sucks. It has always sucked. There just used to be no other alternatives, so people bought it. For the same price, you can get the RL19 as mentioned. And for a measly $500 more you could get the RL25: https://outdoorlegacygear.com/produ...ulti-purpose-monocular?variant=39655113916490
Don't hold back. Tell us how you really feel.
Just how bad does the Breach suck.
Is it too slow or too fast, or too soft or too hard.
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