Ai AT-X bolt location pin

Arvid98

Private
Minuteman
Sep 15, 2020
13
1
Hello!

First post for me here on the hide!

I got my brand new AI AT-X yesterday and love it! The only thing im not realy a fan of is the bolt location pin( the pin you need to depress when you strip the bolt) and how it feathers back when you close the bolt.
Does this pin have any purpose except assisting when extracting? And can i be removed?

Im to used to tikkas and remington so the extra forward force needed to close the bolt feels very off to me.
 
If you're talking about what I think you're talking about, its to keep the cocking piece from being bumped to the fired position while the bolt is to the rear, which will stop the gun until resolved. I haven't seen the AT-x bolt up close, so maybe theres a change im not aware of. Got a pic?
 
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If you're talking about what I think you're talking about, its to keep the cocking piece from being bumped to the fired position while the bolt is to the rear, which will stop the gun until resolved. I haven't seen the AT-x bolt up close, so maybe theres a change im not aware of. Got a pic?
But shouldnt the notch the cocking piece sits in be enough? I mean it seems to be enough for tikka and rem?
 
But shouldnt the notch the cocking piece sits in be enough? I mean it seems to be enough for tikka and rem?
No, not if you bump it off the notch. This does happen from
time to time when youre not on a sterile range. Many bolt action receiver designs address this from the beginning due to the fact they started as battle rifles( mauser 98 etc). Remington/ tikka is a budget option.

I suspect the resistance you're feeling at bolt close is not that part, and instead is the extractor snapping over the case rim.
 
No, not if you bump it off the notch. This does happen from
time to time when youre not on a sterile range. Many bolt action receiver designs address this from the beginning. Remington/ tikka is a budget option.

I suspect the resistance you're feeling at bolt close is not that part, and instead is the extractor snapping over the case rim.
No its the same without a round in the chamber. Anyway i bet i wont think about it after a few thousand dryfires.
 
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No its the same without a round in the chamber. Anyway i bet i wont think about it after a few thousand dryfires.
Every time someone gripes about their AI, and its something that has never been an issue, or something I didn't even notice, I have to run out to my rifle and check. Ive owned five AI’s now.

So putting a trigger pull gauges on my bolt handle and measuring force to overcome that plunger, it appears to take about 6-8 oz. By comparison, it takes about three lbs of force to strip a round out of the magazine. Once the round chambers, the bolt is held to the rear by the ejector pushing off the case head. The ejector takes about 8 lbs to overcome, which does not include the ejector snapping over, which comes as the bolt cams into battery. Camming the bolt into battery (which is overcoming the firing pin spring) takes another 7-8 lbs in a different direction. In a smooth feeding cycle, these forces feel lower, but thats probably because theres inertia involved. In summary, there is absolutely no way I can feel that plunger in a feeding/ locking cycle while actually shooting. If your plunger isn't binding(easy to depresses with a finger), you shouldn't be able to either.

Its a boring Sunday morning here…
 
Every time someone gripes about their AI, and its something that has never been an issue, or something I didn't even notice, I have to run out to my rifle and check. Ive owned five AI’s now.

So putting a trigger pull gauges on my bolt handle and measuring force to overcome that plunger, it appears to take about 6-8 oz. By comparison, it takes about three lbs of force to strip a round out of the magazine. Once the round chambers, the bolt is held to the rear by the ejector pushing off the case head. The ejector takes about 8 lbs to overcome, which does not include the ejector snapping over, which comes as the bolt cams into battery. Camming the bolt into battery (which is overcoming the firing pin spring) takes another 7-8 lbs in a different direction. In a smooth feeding cycle, these forces feel lower, but thats probably because theres inertia involved. In summary, there is absolutely no way I can feel that plunger in a feeding/ locking cycle while actually shooting. If your plunger isn't binding(easy to depresses with a finger), you shouldn't be able to either.

Its a boring Sunday morning here…
Then are yours probobly a bit more broken in then mine. Mine takes a bit over 3lbs to depress
 
AI actions are crude, rude and for them to feel smooth in open/closure, you have to run them like you're in a bar fight. At least my atx feels this way. Granted I only have maybe 400 rounds through mine. It is acceptably accurate, love the atx chassis, but have been spoiled with the smoothness and ease of operation using high end 700 clones.