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Tikka T3 Thread

CaptNemo said:
How long have you let it soak with Kroil / PBlaster, etc. ?
Heat Cycles ?

Heat the receiver right at the threads, preload the cheater pipe on the action wrench and bump the end of the wrench with a heavy hammer.
That's how the last on came off.
Click to expand...
I’m trying to avoid heat cycling the action, that may be dumb but I just don’t like the idea of putting a torch on it. If I have to I will.

I might can find a Chester, I’m using the hammer to bump already. I think my main issue is getting the barrel tight enough right now. I may switch from hose to duct tape. I saw hose suggested previously and it seemed like a decent start.

Would really like to be able to sell the barrel
 
DangerRanger said:
I’m trying to avoid heat cycling the action, that may be dumb but I just don’t like the idea of putting a torch on it. If I have to I will.

I might can find a Chester, I’m using the hammer to bump already. I think my main issue is getting the barrel tight enough right now. I may switch from hose to duct tape. I saw hose suggested previously and it seemed like a decent start.

Would really like to be able to sell the barrel
Click to expand...
I have that same barrel vise and I'm thinking a cutting up a couple of strips of old belt leather or a couple of layers of shoe box type card board with brown sugar or rosin would do the trick - I've scarred up the bluing on every barrel I have removed so far, so I'm still looking for a perfect solution.
 
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DangerRanger said:
I’m trying to avoid heat cycling the action, that may be dumb but I just don’t like the idea of putting a torch on it. If I have to I will.

I might can find a Chester, I’m using the hammer to bump already. I think my main issue is getting the barrel tight enough right now. I may switch from hose to duct tape. I saw hose suggested previously and it seemed like a decent start.

Would really like to be able to sell the barrel
Click to expand...
Try loosening your action wrench bolts.
If you have too much pressure on them all you are doing is locking the threads into each other.
Add just enough pressure to keep the action from moving between the jaws to prevent marring.
 
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JGR1953 said:
Try loosening your action wrench bolts.
If you have too much pressure on them all you are doing is locking the threads into each other.
Add just enough pressure to keep the action from moving between the jaws to prevent marring.
Click to expand...
Yep been trying to do that, enough it was twisting a little on action at first when I hit it
 
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How light can these tikkas be made. Wanting to do a light weight hunter with a 18-22” barrel in a Xlr magnesium element
 
viking78 said:
There is QD cup all ready on the rear stock.
XRY-B012.jpg

XRY-D05.jpg
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Which barrel profile/length is that? Looking at doing a tikka/whiskey 3 buikd.
 
just browsing said:
26” Rem Varmint profile

Load that I used for break-in was 23.4gr 8208 with a 77 seated to ~2.360” OAL.
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8208 definitely seems to be in a sweet spot with 75/77s and a longer barrel. I have a 26", I have gone as high as 24.5gr of 8208 with 75gr ELDs, 1.9520 CBTO. 75s seems to build pressure a little slower than the 77s, 77s shoot a little better IMO.
 
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jLorenzo said:
8208 definitely seems to be in a sweet spot with 75/77s and a longer barrel. I have a 26", I have gone as high as 24.5gr of 8208 with 75gr ELDs, 1.9520 CBTO. 75s seems to build pressure a little slower than the 77s, 77s shoot a little better IMO.
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Yeah it’s a good combination for sure.

My barrel has a super long freebore so I just broke it in with that load… going to experiment with Varget and the heavier stuff going forward since I can seat so long.

This is a 90SMK and a 75ELD seated to touching the lands, and then a factory 77gr IMI round for reference.

A7F19963-3A91-414C-A3AD-9706D81AF1A9.jpeg
 
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just browsing said:
Yeah it’s a good combination for sure.

My barrel has a super long freebore so I just broke it in with that load… going to experiment with Varget and the heavier stuff going forward since I can seat so long.

This is a 90SMK and a 75ELD seated to touching the lands, and then a factory 77gr IMI round for reference.

View attachment 8081410
Click to expand...
Do you know which reamer it is or what the freebore is? I bought mine used but I think it is .169 freebore but not sure. Might be a little shorter than yours. I have shot 88s but no 90s. Looking at the Berger 85.5s. The 88s are crazy long. I mostly shoot 75/77s but also have been trying some 80s.
 
jLorenzo said:
Do you know which reamer it is or what the freebore is? I bought mine used but I think it is .169 freebore but not sure. Might be a little shorter than yours. I have shot 88s but no 90s. Looking at the Berger 85.5s. The 88s are crazy long. I mostly shoot 75/77s but also have been trying some 80s.
Click to expand...
.169 is super long. Probably almost too long to load to modified Accurate-mag length and still be in the lands.

Mine is a .155 which puts me just short of modified mag length (with reliable feeding) and just into the lands.

DangerRanger said:
Tikka still undefeated, Amazon action wrench has fallen View attachment 8081931View attachment 8081932
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Try the rear entry wrench from PVA. The external ones are goofy anyway.
 
just browsing said:
.169 is super long. Probably almost too long to load to modified Accurate-mag length and still be in the lands.

Mine is a .155 which puts me just short of modified mag length (with reliable feeding) and just into the lands.


Try the rear entry wrench from PVA. The external ones are goofy anyway.
Click to expand...
Weird, I’ve always heard to never use a rear entry to remove a tikka barrel


Rolled the edge over on the action dovetail. Think I’m gone gonna send it to my smith
4F6364F2-21D6-4032-BEA6-208DB5883F57.jpeg
 
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DangerRanger said:
Weird, I’ve always heard to never use a rear entry to remove a tikka barrel


Rolled the edge over on the action dovetail. Think I’m gone gonna send it to my smith
View attachment 8081989
Click to expand...

The rear entry wrench as mentioned is the way to go. I used the PVA on multiple Tikkas. They are tight as fuck, I still had to heat them up too.

Those external wrenches are putting pressure on the threads that you’re trying to loosen when you crank them down.
 
Yeah I’ll just buy bare action next time instead of trying to save money. I’m done fucking with it. I will say the brown sugar in the vise worked really well. Zero spin after that.
 
supposedly, cutting relief cuts in the barrel really helps. mine came off after some serious whacks using a setup like yours (exterior action wrench). i had soaked it overnite in kroil. so i didn't get to the relief cut part, and i never got clear where/what direction the relief cuts were to be. and i will say that just buying the action makes it WAYYYY easier, and cheaper also if you're just buying a complete rifle as a host.
 
jLorenzo said:
Why do you say that? Been trying to decide between a Tikka donor rilfe or an Origin.
Click to expand...
It wanted to bind when run imperfectly, wasn’t terribly smooth and bolt close felt like crap to me.
I’ve never tried an origin, I just have no interest. Don’t think bighorns suit me. Maybe the origin is wildly better.

I can push a tikka bolt sideways and it still goes straight home. Push the tl3 at 10 degrees off and it wanted to stick.

Lots of people love them, different strokes and that’s why we have options.
 
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DangerRanger said:
I can push a tikka bolt sideways and it still goes straight home. Push the tl3 at 10 degrees off and it wanted to stick.
Click to expand...

That’s because you’re running a SA in a LA and it has a ton of bolt body left in it at full travel. Push a LA travel bolt in a Tikka sideways and it will bind too, pretty much any action will. It’s not hard to run a bighorn so it glides and I’d take one any day over a Tikka.
 
redneckbmxer24 said:
That’s because you’re running a SA in a LA and it has a ton of bolt body left in it at full travel. Push a LA travel bolt in a Tikka sideways and it will bind too, pretty much any action will. It’s not hard to run a bighorn so it glides and I’d take one any day over a Tikka.
Click to expand...
OK

I wouldn’t, and won’t
 
redneckbmxer24 said:
That’s because you’re running a SA in a LA and it has a ton of bolt body left in it at full travel. Push a LA travel bolt in a Tikka sideways and it will bind too, pretty much any action will. It’s not hard to run a bighorn so it glides and I’d take one any day over a Tikka.
Click to expand...
Damn, you have all the answers . :poop:
 
viking78 said:
Is that viper barrel vice any good, just bought one, but have not tested it yet.
Click to expand...
¯\_(ツ)_/¯ seems good. I couldn’t get the barrel tight enough at first but I was trying to protect it with garden hose wrapped around. That didn’t work.

I switched to using brown sugar around the barrel to act like rosin and then torqued the nuts to 65 ft lbs and the barrel didn’t even try to budge… and I put enough torque to bend that wrench flat and bend the wrench bolts. So I guess?

My biggest gripe is by design it’s wider than the stainless shank on a proof carbon so I’ll have to be careful not to clamp any carbon.
 
Love my Viper vice. One of the original tools I bought back when I first got into all this and one of the few that hasn’t been replaced with something “better.”

Small strips of leather work really well around the barrel by the way.
 
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DangerRanger said:
My biggest gripe is by design it’s wider than the stainless shank on a proof carbon so I’ll have to be careful not to clamp any carbon.
Click to expand...
I stacked 2 layers of leather strap top and bottom and only use the front bolts to clamp on the shank.
The leather is thick enough to keep the clamp off the carbon and 2 bolts was more than enough to reach my torque setting installing my C6 barrel.

IMG_0495a.JPG


IMG_0497a.JPG


This is just my wrench handle to show an example of how I clamp it. (Too lazy to remove and show the real thing)
IMG_0509a.JPG
 
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redneckbmxer24 said:
The rear entry wrench as mentioned is the way to go. I used the PVA on multiple Tikkas. They are tight as fuck, I still had to heat them up too.

Those external wrenches are putting pressure on the threads that you’re trying to loosen when you crank them down.
Click to expand...

Don't use a rear entry to remove a factory tikka barrel. The external wrenches have more surface area since you're using the flat sides of the action. I've only taken off a few, a buddy of mine a few more. We've never had an issue.
 
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DangerRanger said:
It wanted to bind when run imperfectly, wasn’t terribly smooth and bolt close felt like crap to me.
I’ve never tried an origin, I just have no interest. Don’t think bighorns suit me. Maybe the origin is wildly better.

I can push a tikka bolt sideways and it still goes straight home. Push the tl3 at 10 degrees off and it wanted to stick.

Lots of people love them, different strokes and that’s why we have options.
Click to expand...

Never had that issue with any of my Tikka's, though I only have three of them. They're smoother than my stiller action by far....
 
NewsShooter said:
Don't use a rear entry to remove a factory tikka barrel. The external wrenches have more surface area since you're using the flat sides of the action. I've only taken off a few, a buddy of mine a few more. We've never had an issue.
Click to expand...

I removed at least a half dozen factory barrels with the PVA wrench. Heat, insert wrench, comes right off. Those external wrenches blow.
 
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The solid green isn't bad - unless you want to add some "tiger stripes" in black or brown to break up the shape, or just for coolness.
 
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