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The video Kelbly asked to link to:
It is shocking that acid etched metal. Next news flash water will cause rust. And it is wet.CLR is acid, who could have known?
Did people just (re)discover CLR?
The video Kelbly asked to link to:
CLR has been gaining traction lately, for whatever reason.
I've seen it posted in multiple places as a miracle cure for carbon build up. Especially in forums where suppressors are popular. The claim is it dissolves carbon ... not too many things on the planet can do that.
Who would have thought it removes the carbon by eroding the steel it's attached to.
Simple Green is bio degradable but it will dissolve aluminum and will also eat regular steel. Just because something seems to be safe on the surface doesn't mean it is really safe!
How many of the guys saying not to use CLR use an ammonia based cleaner?
Butch’s?
Sweet’s 7.62?
How is it any different?
Of course you don’t leave your parts sitting in a bath of either for any extended period of time if you don’t want any reaction between the cleaner and barrel.
No, but they’re both capable of damaging materials.Besides the fact that ammonia isn't acid?
No, but they’re both capable of damaging materials.
Are people actually soaking their barrels in CLR for hours on end? Is that a thing?
No, but they’re both capable of damaging materials.
Are people actually soaking their barrels in CLR for hours on end? Is that a thing?
There's an Eric Cortina YT vid about soaking his tuners and brakes in it, got more people using it as a carbon cleaner. It'll definitely take bluing right off not sure about DLC or cera.Did people just (re)discover CLR?
Yes, a mod here started a thread about plugging a barrel and filling it with CLR to soak. When I suggested caution should be used he rage quit and deleted the thread. The YT lord and savior F-class daddy espouses soaking with CLR too.
I've used it (diluted 50/50 with water), but only on suppressor baffles and muzzle brakes. It will cut through some serious carbon crud, but if you leave the part in the solution too long, it will discolor it (like an APA brake). But for Ti suppressor baffles? Works like a dream.
I'm not sure where people got the idea to put it down their barrels, but I suppose some do it. I'll use it on a $200 brake (they're a wear item in my book, that doesn't affect accuracy that much), but not on a $900 barrel (while also a wear item, that's a lotta money to be possibly screwing up). Nope.
Quick spray/scrub with carb & choke cleaner, then a trip through the tumbler has worked for me. I'm not too picky though, and we're talking SS and centerfire cans, maybe a few Ti spacers.I've used it (diluted 50/50 with water), but only on suppressor baffles and muzzle brakes. It will cut through some serious carbon crud, but if you leave the part in the solution too long, it will discolor it (like an APA brake). But for Ti suppressor baffles? Works like a dream.
Agreed. A few bursts of brake cleaner and a few patches will get rid of any residuals.Quick spray/scrub with carb & choke cleaner, then a trip through the tumbler has worked for me. I'm not too picky though, and we're talking SS and centerfire cans, maybe a few Ti spacers.
Works fine on their nitrided one also. I soak my brakes in it for several hours. No issues yet.ACE brake says its safe to use on their polished brake sooo...
I don't have a dog in the fight...idc what ppl use. But I wonder how many of the folks who saw adverse reaction with CLR also used an ammonia based cleaner? Started with CLR to cut carbon and then moved on to something ammonia based for copper and either didn't patch out between or did a piss poor job? The lactic acid in the CLR would react with the ammonium hydroxide.
I said along time ago as well as I did a test on barrels with CLR here and posted it on the hide and I've told guys not to use it.Did not read all the post here. Agree with acid eating metal of course.
Life is simple unless you seek complication.
@Frank Green has outlined how to clean a barrel on a thread linked above.
Make life easy. Listen to Frank.