Ultra series rings, non logo mk4, logo mk4. All were used.
So not "US" Army, but still an M24 nonetheless. Surprised I don't see more posts on this site and thread about the IDF's Modernized M24. From what I gather, it's the standard M24 barreled action with a custom muzzle brake, put into the first/prior generation MDT LSS-XL chassis with folding butt stock, and corresponding full length railed night vision hood.
None of this is still produced or available from MDT anymore, unfortunately. I already asked. It's too bad, as I really dig the industrial look of the clip-on full length railed hood.
Found a good article on this build: https://rifleshooter.com/2023/01/idf-modernized-m24-sws-review/
None of this is still produced or available from MDT anymore, unfortunately. I already asked. It's too bad, as I really dig the industrial look of the clip-on full length railed hood.
Found a good article on this build: https://rifleshooter.com/2023/01/idf-modernized-m24-sws-review/
What scopes are people using on their M24A2s? My MK4 is great for pictures but I hate having to convert MOA and MILS when dialing for range. Also, the M24 suppressoris amazing!
When the M110s switched to the Leupold Mark 4 M5A2 ER/T 6.5-20x50 from the Leupold Mark 4 M2 FDE OEM scope they came with, I put one on my M24A2. For me, it's the ideal scope for the M24. The FDE Mark 4 M2 scope went onto my Mk12. The newer Mark 5 HDs 3-18x are a really good choice as well which is what I run on the M110 now.
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you have the right scope.
Is Eurooptics doing another run of M24s? I'm seeing banner ads on my phone.
Those banners have never gone away for me since they went OOS years ago
Here is my M24A2 - cuitting her loose if anyone is in the market 
My heart tells me yes. My wallet tells me to keep dreaming poor boy.
Quick question though. Is that cheekpiece removable if you wanted it to look like a regular M24?
its not removable. there is an entire mechanism that goes through the buttstock that would be exposed if you took the comb riser off
This forum has been a little dry lately. So here's some info on the M24 night vision scope AN/PVS-10. April 1994, VARO, Inc. (now Litton) was awarded a contract to design the Army nvd for M24SWS. Delivery started Feb. 1997. It was the first official nvd for SWS. There had been a previous nvd named AN/PVS-9 built by SIMRAD Optronics of Norway. But it was mostly a Special Forces procurement item seen on individual unit M24's & USMC M40's. Many of the CMP Unertl 10X scopes currently being auctioned have ring mount bases for the SIMRAD. I'm out of my lane with this item, so anybody with better info feel free to reply.
The PVS-10 is described as an Integrated Day/Night Sniper Scope. Meaning it operates in both daylight & nighttime environments. That is a unique feature that sets it apart from many other nvd.
The PVS-10 is described as an Integrated Day/Night Sniper Scope. Meaning it operates in both daylight & nighttime environments. That is a unique feature that sets it apart from many other nvd.
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PVS-10 looks unlike conventional nvd. But its form follows function. The basic design has the eyepiece below the line-of-sight from the front objective. This was meant to allow the Army sniper an easy transition from the M3a without changing his field training. The eyepiece is at the same position as the Day Optic L&S M3a 10X scope. This photo shows the lever which allows the PVS-10 to switch between a Day optic & Night optic. It alters the optical plane entering the front lens to either go through the Gen3 image intensifier, or straight through to the eyepiece. Either image looks the same to the shooter. I can tell you there is absolutely zero information online which illustrates this internal function, I've searched endlessly. Hopefully some of you have a better comprehension and willing to explain. It uses a mirror, but not sure how it reflects the image w/o being inverted and/or how it would correct that.
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The PVS-10 does share the exact same laser-etched mil-dot reticle as the L&S Ultra M3a. So no changeover involved for the sniper. It also uses the same click values of 1/2 MOA Windage & 1 MOA Elevation (3/4 Min Dot). Both dials are able to be switched out for different cartridges, but during its relatively short timeline, only M118/173gr dials were provided. M852/168gr or M118SB/175gr dials have not been seen by myself.
I counted 76 clicks of Elevation @ 1MOA. And 117 clicks of Windage @ 1/2 MOA. Neither dial has built in zero-stops, only end-of-rotation on either end.
The M24 L&S Ultra 1-pc base is zero cant, and both dials have a steel raised pin "tit" to give the sniper a nightime BZO locator reference: "0" on the Windage dial, "5" (500Meters) on the Elevation dial. (If I'm not mistaken, by the time PVS-10 was phased out, training doctrine had the M24 zeroed at 500M with no dial rotation used after ranging, only mil-dot hold-offs. This was due to the shitty quality of M118 being produced by LC as a result of the bullet dies being worn out. I could be wrong on that?)
I counted 76 clicks of Elevation @ 1MOA. And 117 clicks of Windage @ 1/2 MOA. Neither dial has built in zero-stops, only end-of-rotation on either end.
The M24 L&S Ultra 1-pc base is zero cant, and both dials have a steel raised pin "tit" to give the sniper a nightime BZO locator reference: "0" on the Windage dial, "5" (500Meters) on the Elevation dial. (If I'm not mistaken, by the time PVS-10 was phased out, training doctrine had the M24 zeroed at 500M with no dial rotation used after ranging, only mil-dot hold-offs. This was due to the shitty quality of M118 being produced by LC as a result of the bullet dies being worn out. I could be wrong on that?)
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Ugh that thing was an incredible piece of shit.
This is the cutoff sensor. It conserves battery life, and protects the tube from damage if the scope is left in night mode during daylight. It reads down to 4 foot-candles of illumination & automatically shuts off the intensifier within 70 seconds. It gets overridden when the front lens cap is in cover position with its 1/8" pinhole at the center, so the sniper can operate the scope using night vision mode in daylight conditions. He would use night vision mode during daytime to power up the illuminated reticle feature, for example when trying to range through smoke or fog. I unintentionally discovered an override function by holding down the reticle power button, which is awkward at best while glassing through the scope, and probably compromises the safeguard without the front cover in place. But I assume it was designed for fast movers trying to squirt away under cover.
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Ive heard both sides of that opinion, some saying it was better than the McCann MIRS.
We had three 10's on deployment and only one survived because it didn't get used. One had the elevation turret come off and on mine the reticle developed a cant. The 8.5X was usable but not ideal and the lens coatings gave everything a sort of pinkish or off color hue. At night the NV wasn't great and practically speaking you had a small window where it was effective before you started to lose resolution. It was also five pounds and tall as fuck.
I can't speak to efficacy of the McCann rail set up with clip ons but my experience with the PVS-10 in county was less than positive.
I can't speak to efficacy of the McCann rail set up with clip ons but my experience with the PVS-10 in county was less than positive.
Definitely a top heavy sonofabitch. But now I got a legit reason to buy a Manfrotto & Hog Saddle
Objective lens is 3 1/2" wide. Big piece of glass. There is a Laser Interference Filter LIF that screws on front. Like the M3alpha EMA laser filter.
Front cover doubles as a sunshade in the stowed position. There's also a slip on rubber tube accessory that extends further.
Front cover doubles as a sunshade in the stowed position. There's also a slip on rubber tube accessory that extends further.
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Thats the basics of AN/PVS-10 SNS. In its day these were advanced technology. Built tough enough to handle .50bmg recoil. Then clip-ons took over with their full length real estate top rails & side mounts. Now its going thermal, and color thermal w/GPS & laser targeting.
Got this rig from a fellow Hide member. Thanks, brother! I'm stoked af to own another piece of M24 history never thought I'd get. Took a few decades, well worth the wait.
Got this rig from a fellow Hide member. Thanks, brother! I'm stoked af to own another piece of M24 history never thought I'd get. Took a few decades, well worth the wait.
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I have a pvs10 one of the m24s here. I think it is so cool. Extremely iconic and the only thing like it in my entire collection. Ignoring the historical value of it, functionally its pretty awkward on the m24. It greatly changes the valance of the rifle, adding a lot of weight and bulk. Id say its more user friendly than a PVS9 but less friendly than a PVS22 on a Mccann rail which phased it out. The issues people had on the McCann rails was largely that if you dropped the weapon or put too much load on the rail, it would snap the 8/40 screws in the receiver. This was the same issue the MARS rails had on the MK13-5 which eventually lead to the re design with the IMUNS. The other issue with the McCann was the rail itself blocked the serial number which made it annoying to inventory. U often see Ranger guns with MIRS rails and they just re-write the serial on the stock OR they etch the serial number of the rifle directly into the MIRS.
Mine doesnt roll past Day, but it does roll a touch over NIGHT - doesnt affect function
How about some xm2010/m24 love. Haven’t seen very many posted. Here’s mine.
Nice XM2010! These rifles are serious hardware. Mine is accurate, smooth handling, and comfortable to shoot too.
I like that one too!!
Question: Did the optics case fit well in that case set-up? It looks like that was the iM3300 case with the Armageddon Gear bag. I have the same setup with the Pelican 1750 and the optics case will not fit with everything else in place.
Question: Did the optics case fit well in that case set-up? It looks like that was the iM3300 case with the Armageddon Gear bag. I have the same setup with the Pelican 1750 and the optics case will not fit with everything else in place.
Thanks, that is what I suspected. I've only seen a couple pictures with the optics case shown inside the hard case with Armageddon case.
With the rifle strapped into the Armageddon molle loops and inside the hard case, the optics should be protected well enough to remain on the rifle.
The optics case were generally left in the armory after delivery and initial set up of the rifle and not packed into the kits when they were deployed.
likely at the armory or maybe they cut it to fit other gear. Often the m110 scope cases had their foam ripped out and other stuff jammed in the box.
New old stock m24 triggers with spec sheets. 
Not as issued or fielded, but my 2009 Remington Defense catalog inspired M24A2 and M24A3.
Have to assume these spec sheets came from that $35,000 special machine that measured trigger pull/retention within 1/10th of 1 ounce in the Illion custom shop? Would be interesting to know where its at now after the reorganization? The parts you have are outstanding
For anyone that has submitted a FOIA request, do you know how long they took to get back? I emailed [email protected] in June, and have yet to receive a response.
I would send it again. I have usually received an initial response within about a day, then the final response within from 1 to 3 weeks.
Also, check the email address. The one I have used is:
[email protected]
Thanks, I resent with the correct email. Got a response almost immediately. For those that aren't hearing back and copy pasted the email address from an earlier post, there was a typo. Also requests must "be perfected". A perfected FOIA needs a “willingness to pay” statement with a minimum amount of $25 annotated within the body of the email.
So, sort of M24 related, in the back of the M24 operator manual there is a small illustration that shows a 2X4 with a 3/16" hole in it for use when removing the firing pin assembly from the bolt body.
It's funny that the Army tells us to use a dime, a 2X4, and something to compress the spring to take the bolt apart and the USMC provides the drawings to make a Kleinendorst bolt disassembly tool.
So I recently got a wild hair to make some of these fabricated items that are in the back of the TM's and this was going to be one of them but I wanted it to be more useful. I didn't have any fancy tools so I went after it the Infantry way, with brute force and a dash of finesse. It certainly won't win any carpentry awards but it works and I have enough 2X4 that I might revise it a little and actually use a router or something more appropriate than a hammer and a sharpened stick.
The aluminum edge is a bearing surface to expose the cocking piece enough to slip the washer in the slot. The brass is for compressing the ejector, and the white thing is a nylon spacer.
Drop the bolt body into the bolt shaped hole, drop the white spacer down inside, and screw the firing pin assembly in until the cross pin is exposed and can be pushed out. Then unscrew the assembly to replace the firing pin and/or spring.
It's funny that the Army tells us to use a dime, a 2X4, and something to compress the spring to take the bolt apart and the USMC provides the drawings to make a Kleinendorst bolt disassembly tool.
So I recently got a wild hair to make some of these fabricated items that are in the back of the TM's and this was going to be one of them but I wanted it to be more useful. I didn't have any fancy tools so I went after it the Infantry way, with brute force and a dash of finesse. It certainly won't win any carpentry awards but it works and I have enough 2X4 that I might revise it a little and actually use a router or something more appropriate than a hammer and a sharpened stick.
The aluminum edge is a bearing surface to expose the cocking piece enough to slip the washer in the slot. The brass is for compressing the ejector, and the white thing is a nylon spacer.
Drop the bolt body into the bolt shaped hole, drop the white spacer down inside, and screw the firing pin assembly in until the cross pin is exposed and can be pushed out. Then unscrew the assembly to replace the firing pin and/or spring.
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