Chris Way and I did video, swapping between the MDT Elite Pro and the Accuracy International ATX Chassis'
Swapping Rifle Chassis in the Field
- Thread starter Lowlight
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Chris Way and I did video, swapping between the MDT Elite Pro and the Accuracy International ATX Chassis'
How are you running the Impact in the ATX? Did you modify the mag block to fit the hanger or remove the hanger?
That’s pretty damn impressive that there was such little shift and it was consistent but I’m not too surprised either with the machining consistency’s of Impact, MDT, and AI.
That’s pretty damn impressive that there was such little shift and it was consistent but I’m not too surprised either with the machining consistency’s of Impact, MDT, and AI.
it dropped right in, Chris never played with it at all to fit the ATX chassis
Really liked this video; also emailed it to a few who kept arguing me this subject for years
Thank you
I've always seated the action in the chassis by bouncing the butt on the ground. I've never tested it but it's just part of the routine at this point.
I tend to see that first round seat issue, so yes bouncing the stock on the ground helps a bit.
Standing the rifle up and the order in which you torque it can be another factor in whether or not you see a shift
Standing the rifle up and the order in which you torque it can be another factor in whether or not you see a shift
Not being intimately familiar with the action/inletting, along with loading to the rear, is there anything besides the action screws and receiver’s roundness to “settle” the receiver in the inlet without any twisting stress?
I’ve found if I snug an action screw, torque the second screw, then loosen and retorque the first screw, all while loading to the rear, there is no discernible “settling” in the first shot.
Is there an order that seems to work best when torqueing the action action screws or is it something that varies across platforms?
I have no experience with any chassis other than MPA, but they say it’s important for their chassis that you snug the front, then rear, then torque the front, then the rear.
Sitting rifle vetical as was done in the video, plus half torquing bolts, then full torqing bolts, as per video, is the most reliable method ive found.
No one is reinventing the wheel here, but this video demonstrates PERFECTLY what to do, butt-bouncing or not (which i also prefer). Glad you guys took the time to do this.
Great video and showing actual result and methodology is appreciated.
No one is reinventing the wheel here, but this video demonstrates PERFECTLY what to do, butt-bouncing or not (which i also prefer). Glad you guys took the time to do this.
Great video and showing actual result and methodology is appreciated.
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