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Create a channel Learn moreFront screw controls fore and aft. Rear screw locks it in place. No height adjustment possible.Actually, forward and aft movement is controlled and limited by the rear screw. The front screw is a secondary height control adjustment.
Look carefully at the cutout in the action where the front screw rests. It’s a ramp that allows for you to adjust height. Note especially that the front screw does Not tighten the hanger in any way. It is a height adjustment screw. The rear screw is what holds the hanger in place.
If you do not have enough sear engagement, then you need to back that front screw out a very little bit to allow the front of the hanger to set deeper and thus increase seer engagement. I had to screw mine in because I was getting bolt drag even at maximum forward (and thus the least height) position.
I would not adjust front screw depth more than 1/4 turn at a time. Try it. You’ll see that I’m right.
If I recall correctly, Ted briefly alludes to or mentions it when he talks about the front screw in the video, but he does not dwell on it at all.
Let me know how that works out for you.
As a summary and an afterward, moving the hanger backward or forward changes engagement height due to the ramp design in the front of the action cut. That IS the primary height adjustment mechanism and will cover the majority of triggers and cases. A front screw adjustment is only needed on the occasion that your seer engagement cannot be satisfactorily adjusted using the primary method.
Have I made it as clear as mud yet?
I disagree.Front screw controls fore and aft. Rear screw locks it in place. No height adjustment possible.
The height of the trigger can’t change. The pins constrain vertical movement in the channels inside the action.I disagree.
Actually, forward and aft movement is controlled and limited by the rear screw. The front screw is a secondary height control adjustment.
Look carefully at the cutout in the action where the front screw rests. It’s a ramp that allows for you to adjust height. Note especially that the front screw does Not tighten the hanger in any way. It is a height adjustment screw. The rear screw is what holds the hanger in place.
If you do not have enough sear engagement, then you need to back that front screw out a very little bit to allow the front of the hanger to set deeper and thus increase seer engagement. I had to screw mine in because I was getting bolt drag even at maximum forward (and thus the least height) position.
I would not adjust front screw depth more than 1/4 turn at a time. Try it. You’ll see that I’m right.
If I recall correctly, Ted briefly alludes to or mentions it when he talks about the front screw in the video, but he does not dwell on it at all.
Let me know how that works out for you.
As a summary and an afterward, moving the hanger backward or forward changes engagement height due to the ramp design in the front of the action cut. That IS the primary height adjustment mechanism and will cover the majority of triggers and cases. A front screw adjustment is only needed on the occasion that your seer engagement cannot be satisfactorily adjusted using the primary method.
Have I made it as clear as mud yet?
Do these actions work with the mdt aics magazines in 6 dasher?
I have an mdt acc chassis and I'm not sure if aw mags fit in that.Probably just fine, but not sure why you'd want to run a single stack mag when 6 dasher out of an AW mag with an HRD br/dasher kit runs super smooth in these actions and the double stack AW mag is shorter and easier to load.
I have an mdt acc chassis and I'm not sure if aw mags fit in that.
Apparently MPA.Any deals on CD'G barreled actions out there?
They do. AW mags fit in any mag well made for AICS mags by design. With the CDG, I’m not sure if you need to adjust mag latch or not.I have an mdt acc chassis and I'm not sure if aw mags fit in that.
Does anyone make 12 round aw mags?They should, although you may have to adjust the latch height.
You may also have to adjust the latch height for AICS mags.
About the only real advantage AICS style mags have for this action is easily available mag extensions. Otherwise, AW mags feed like butter in the CDG because it was designed to run AW mags.
Thanks man, I feel like I have a lot to learnThey do. AW mags fit in any mag well made for AICS mags by design. With the CDG, I’m not sure if you need to adjust mag latch or not.
I’ve had to adjust my ACC Elite when moving between AICS and AW.They do. AW mags fit in any mag well made for AICS mags by design. With the CDG, I’m not sure if you need to adjust mag latch or not.
I had my CDG in my ACC Premiere and it worked. They were a little tight the first few times in. I had to give it a smack with my hand. After a couple times they fit fine.I have an mdt acc chassis and I'm not sure if aw mags fit in that.
Does anyone make 12 round aw mags?
If you find an action, I have a tac driving 6.5 Creed 26" MTU barrel, work done by TSCustoms. Like new.Any deals on CD'G barreled actions out there?
I will add my 2 cents.....I have the ACC Elite and my CDG built Dasher with AW HRD mags run so freaking smooth, it's just a joy to shoot......in fact, I just got back from a quick range sessionThey do. AW mags fit in any mag well made for AICS mags by design. With the CDG, I’m not sure if you need to adjust mag latch or not.
Did you do anything to the mag catch? If so how did you do it?I will add my 2 cents.....I have the ACC Elite and my CDG built Dasher with AW HRD mags run so freaking smooth, it's just a joy to shoot......in fact, I just got back from a quick range session
Shows outta stock when you load all the info in to order.Anyone that’s looking short action customs appears to have CDG in stock. Not on sale but in stock.
American Rifle Company Coup De Grâce Action
ALL ACTION PURCHASES WILL REQUIRE CUSTOMER TO PROVIDE US AN FFL FOR TRANSFER OF RECEIVER. PLEASE REVIEW OUR TERMS AND CONDITIONS ON RIFLE PARTS PRIOR TO ORDERINGshortactioncustoms.com
Well I’m sorry if I got anyone’s hopes up.Shows outta stock when you load all the info in to order.
Not yet, but there's going to be at least one company releasing one for BR variants soon.Does anyone make 12 round aw mags?
Not mine LOL...I ordered a rifle from MPA now the 4+or- month wait.Well I’m sorry if I got anyone’s hopes up.
Buy an action wherever in stock then buy the bolt head from arc..Fucking actions out of stock everywhere. May have to settle for an Origin, bjt those are slim pickings as well. CDG with a mag bolt is nonexistent.
What trigger?If I can reproducibly drop the striker when cycling the bolt up and down, do I need to play with the trigger hanger or the trigger or what? I can create a condition whereby the striker doesn’t reset if I don’t reduce pressure on the bolt or pull it backwards (as you would when normally cycling).
Buy an action wherever in stock then buy the bolt head from arc..
My Timney two stage light (maybe a Calvin elite of yore?) and when I was setting up my Geissele Super 700 last night, to evaluate if it’s any better. Two different CDGs represented there actually.What trigger?
I've set up a Geissele Super 700 and two TT Diamond 2-stage triggers and haven't had any issues with striker drop. I have one rifle with the original hanger design and another with the rev. 1 hanger design. The triggers are set as light as they go.My Timney two stage light (maybe a Calvin elite of yore?) and when I was setting up my Geissele Super 700 last night, to evaluate if it’s any better. Two different CDGs represented there actually.
I've set up a Geissele Super 700 and two TT Diamond 2-stage triggers and haven't had any issues with striker drop. I have one rifle with the original hanger design and another with the rev. 1 hanger design. The triggers are set as light as they go.
My method is to check the striker intrusion on the back of the bolt with a caliper. I adjust the hanger until the striker has the same depth with the bolt open as when the bolt is closed. There is the slightest hitch in the bolt drop as the striker slides from the notch in the bolt to the trigger sear, but its about as smooth as I can get it.
Are you calling the cocking piece a striker? Not sure I am understanding the problem. It almost sounds like the trigger isn't resetting, but that would mean your striker would be the sear. If this is the case, that is an issue with the triggerIt’s strange as the striker isn’t resetting until pressure on the bolt is relieved. It resets every single time if I just let up a tiny bit (or run the bolt).
Im also not following what youre trying to say.It’s strange as the striker isn’t resetting until pressure on the bolt is relieved. It resets every single time if I just let up a tiny bit (or run the bolt).
Probably, my bolt gun anatomy game isn’t great. So you’re correct, I can create a condition whereby the trigger doesn’t reset: lift bolt, don’t pull back, press bolt down. Both triggers have a way to adjust trigger sear engagement and of course pull weights.Are you calling the cocking piece a striker? Not sure I am understanding the problem. It almost sounds like the trigger isn't resetting, but that would mean your striker would be the sear. If this is the case, that is an issue with the trigger
Bro, have a little patience. You're missing out. Have you had the opportunity to fondle a CDG yet?Meh, tired of slogging through site after site, and just ordered an Origin.
Not enough difference to sweat anyhow
This makes more sense, i think. On an action that over-cocks(like every factory action made) the cocking piece travels rearward way out beyond the upper sear of the trigger, allowing the trigger to reset. Id say you dont have a problem, since there no practical reason to not cycle the bolt completely, even if you're just practicing. Edit: just went out and checked mine, does the same thing youre describing when I hold the bolt forward.Probably, my bolt gun anatomy game isn’t great. So you’re correct, I can create a condition whereby the trigger doesn’t reset: lift bolt, don’t pull back, press bolt down. Both triggers have a way to adjust trigger sear engagement and of course pull weights.
Yup I get the same thing, if the bolt comes back just 0.7 to 1.0 mm, the trigger resets. I think it is the nature of the beast with zero cocking on close/open and probably why most manufactures don't do thisThis makes more sense, i think. On an action that over-cocks(like every factory action made) the cocking piece travels rearward way out beyond the upper sear of the trigger, allowing the trigger to reset. Id say you dont have a problem, since there no practical reason to not cycle the bolt completely, even if you're just practicing. Edit: just went out and checked mine, does the same thing youre describing when I hold the bolt forward.
If you cock the bolt, and momentarily let go of it, the striker assembly anti-rotation pin/detent will thrust the bolt rearward slightly and allow the trigger to reset. I mean, if you absolutely must cock and close the bolt without cycling it.
What size magnum bolt head you looking for? 0.535 or 0.588?Fucking actions out of stock everywhere. May have to settle for an Origin, bjt those are slim pickings as well. CDG with a mag bolt is nonexistent.
Nothing wrong with an origin, but you have obviously not seen a CDG in the wild. Meh, each to their own.Meh, tired of slogging through site after site, and just ordered an Origin.
Not enough difference to sweat anyhow
On any other gun, when you lift the bolt all the way, the extraction cam is part of that lift, pulling the bolt back and grabbing the sear of the trigger.Yup I get the same thing, if the bolt comes back just 0.7 to 1.0 mm, the trigger resets. I think it is the nature of the beast with zero cocking on close/open and probably why most manufactures don't do this
I think I ordered the last one in stock on Thursday. Got it today. It showed 3 in stock. By the time I completed the order it showed 0.Shows outta stock when you load all the info in to order.