You want the tall if you’re going to run the NV bridge.
MH told me that they are a quarter inch different. The photos above seem to substantiate this.
Can anyone tell me what torque value to use when installing the AT High Action rail? The manual provides no information that I can see.
3.0 Nm per the armorer's manual, which is 26.5 in-lb.
Feel free to verify with Mile High.
That seems odd, fastener diameter and pitch and the threads in the action doesn't change between the low and high rails... Unless AI provides lower grade fasteners with the low rails and higher grade fasteners with the high rails which explains the torque difference; a possibility, but odd.
Or they revised the torque spec at some point and my page from the armorer's manual shows the older value. My 2015-ish copy only lists the fastener diameter, location (scope rail), and 3.0Nm.
A search here shows the same conversation happened in 2018 where the AT armorer's manual showed 3.0Nm but someone called AINA and they said 35 in-lb (3.95 Nm.)
@Nik H, sounds like a call to Adam at Mile High might be in order...
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Asking for a friend…is it wrong to want more than one AI?
That’s why you start with the AXMC/SR. That way you can justify the whole “well I mostly shoot short action so wouldn’t it make sense to make this a dedicated long action and just buy a dedicated short action AI?”
::whispers while staring into safe at the lonely AXSR::
“…soon…”
“Don’t you already have one of those?”
“Yeah, but this one is sage green.”
“Yeah, but this one is sage green.”
I will call. The rail shows up tomorrow.
Do you use Blue Loctite or any other material on the fastener?
Do you mean the fasteners that attach the rail to the action?
Correct. VERY LITTLE on the screws themselves. Else it WILL seep right into the action itself. Ask me how I know ... Isn't hard to clean if so, just annoying and excessive. One small drop is all that is needed.
If you're very rough with your rifle, the same amount on screws for the NV rail mounting system, or side rails, can also be done. I don't personally run this, and I just check torques as necessary. Including scope screws, etc. I don't run as rough as others though. And I'll invite alternative input on this subject.
I recommend putting blue or 603 green loctite on the rail screws and on the bottom of the rail. This will help when the rail is mounted to seal the rail/receiver interface and prevent rust in-between.
I've created the Poortex equivalent of putting fancy wheels on a '92 Civic. But hey, now I've got 58 mils of usable elevation.
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Thanks for the information. I am not so great with delicate mechanical things.
I'll see what the factory does when I take it apart. I always learn something when I do that. I also know my limitations, though.
Waiting for the LH Sage!
Does the high rail use a socket head screws rather than a countersunk screw? I seem to recall that even though it’s not too much taller. I did have an issue with the heads of the countersunk screws though…that may be the limiting factor rather than the threads. The heads seemed very malleable even for such a low torque. Luckily that made it easy for me to force a larger torx bit in to get some bite.
Good point, the low rail may use reduced head height socket head screws or flatheads so they don't stick up above the rail, while the high rail might use regular full height head socket head screws since there's plenty of room for a deep counterbore. Much like button head screws, the reduced height head screws have lower max torque values than standard full height head socket cap screws.
I don't have my ATs anymore and even then I never had the high rail, so I don't know if the hardware was different. Earlier I was citing the page out of the 2015ish AT armorer's manual that only lists 3.0 Nm for the scope rail screws; no mention of high or low rail.
FYI — If you have an AI AT with the Anarchy Outdoors thumb rest, and you have the AX stock modification done, Mile High will, for an extra fee, install the AX stock so it folds to the non-bolt handle side so you can keep the thumb rest.
Yeah, yeah the folded size is now thicker, but the only time I fold my stock is for cleaning.
-Stan
Yeah, yeah the folded size is now thicker, but the only time I fold my stock is for cleaning.
-Stan
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Man…. I’m glad I don’t have to give up the right folder to have a thumb rest with my Vision Chassis because I wouldn’t do it. The vision thumb rest is low profile enough to have both though.
I had been thinking about buying in AX stock to swap the vision out because I’m not terribly fond of the bagrider on the Vision. But I’m curious what the weight of the AC stock assembly is.
When I posted that the other day about the High vs Low, I had just called MH and asked John in sales, he put me on hold, asked one of their AI armorers (wasn’t Adam, he wasn’t working that day) and that is the info I got. He said the armorer checked his current manual and that’s what it said.
I know I used 35” lbs on my High rail on my AT and worked just fine, with a drop of Blue 243 on each SHCS.
I know I used 35” lbs on my High rail on my AT and worked just fine, with a drop of Blue 243 on each SHCS.
Thaks for that information. Got the rail today. Stay tuned for the install or me crying for help...
Thaks for that information. Got the rail today. Stay tuned for the install or me crying for help...
Post barrel clean and disassembly re-zero.
He’s dead, Jim.Thaks for that information. Got the rail today. Stay tuned for the install or me crying for help...
I see you are doing research into what real awms look like sir
I talked to AINA about switching to torx screws a while ago and what I was told was that previously the AT low rail (probably the high rail too but I don't know for sure) used countersunk 2.5mm hex screws and sometime in 2023 they upgraded everything to 3mm hex socket cap screws and made the corresponding changes in the rail (P/N 26981 vs P/N 26980). I would guess this also led to a change in the torque spec as I used 35in*lbs for the old 2.5mm screws and they held fine but rounded out as soon as I tried to remove them, thank God for the left handed drill bit.
Yea you gotta really heat up the factory ones and my experience is like yours that's def a single use screw
I was wondering about the PN. My rail is 26980, and the low rail available today is 26981. Could not find the difference noted anywhere. Thanks!
Glad you posted that. I have the older rail. Any advice about how to properly heat them up for removal?
Holding a soldering iron on the screw heads works well from what I hear.
FWIW I've always used 35 in-lb with a dot of blue loctite on the AI action rail screws, and I've disassebled it a few times without issue
I don't heat the screw as I want the threads hot, not necessarily the screw heads, especially if I am trying to not soften them. I heat the whole assembly gently with a propane torch until it is nice and hot to the touch. Let it sit a bit and take the screws out then.
Make sure it’s a fat soldering tip, the super thin ones don’t do it. Heat gun/hair dryer and torch work too but aren’t as delicate.
#We’reAllGreenDownHere
#SandySageSands
