So I ran out of primers, went to grab a couple more with the tube and when I put it back on ran the slide and then it went off only thing I can think of is one hung up when I thought I was out and slide it into place and then some kind of way put another one underneath after filling the tube back up. I’m not sure how I did it. But I do know what you’re talking about when it comes to the amount of force you can apply. I don’t know I’m 100% sure it was the operator fault just wish I knew exactly happened to prevent it from happening again. Just thought I would pass it on and even though you might feel like you don’t need to wear safety glasses myself included it’s a good idea to wear them because you never know.
Ugly reloading precision primer seater
- Thread starter Kadams1563
- Start date
FWIW, I've only used mine with the Vibra-Prime's tube... which fits better and is heavier than a Dillon tube. I don't think mine would double-feed unless I actually tried to make it happen by lifting up and wiggling the tube while shuffling the slider or something.
Maybe I will pick some of those up I was using a Dillon tube like I said I know I did something wrong just not sure what it was.
The good old Vibra-Prime rules!
When I'm loading 9mm on my XL750, I fill a tube and then pull the pin and it drops the primers right into the Dillon's primer magazine tube with no fuss, then I fill another one and set it aside until my first 100 runs out... gives me a ~2min break every 200rds and is why my Dillon tubes have never been out of the plastic they came in.
It's a bonus that it's almost like it was custom-made for the PCPS.
Vibra Prime | Auto Primer Tube Filler | Frankford Arsenal
Save time loading primer tubes with your progessive press by using the Frankford Arsenal Vibra-Prime automatic primer tube filler.
www.frankfordarsenal.com
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I’m glad you didn’t get hurt but also cannot see how one would get two primers in there and how one could go off for that matter without running the press ram up hard and fast. When I seat a primer, I carefully “ease” it in and then rotate the case a seat the primer a couple, three times. I don’t jam it in there hard, which I think all but eliminates the chance for one going off.
I then have a primer depth gauge which I place the case on to ensure my seating depth is consistent. I think using that tool is redundant after awhile but it’s a habit and one of the check boxes on my list of brass preparation, so I use it.
I then have a primer depth gauge which I place the case on to ensure my seating depth is consistent. I think using that tool is redundant after awhile but it’s a habit and one of the check boxes on my list of brass preparation, so I use it.
I assumed it was a double feed to be honest I wish I would have taken more time to look closer not going to lie I was in kind of shock. I removed the shell holder because the case would not release. I could have sworn there were two primers in there. Another theory I have was I place the brass in the wrong tray. Possibly I primed that brass already and tried smashing another primer on top of it.
I also use a primer gauge from accuracy one to check seating depth I usually check everyone for the first 20 or so and then spot check after that.
Cheaper, I’ve been upgrading a lot of rifle reloading gear, scales, tricklers, dies etc., and I’m needing to watch my budget.
I returned my cps for the pcps. They're equally as accurate. Pcps also has a hard stop. Only caveat to both of them is that they are also equally inaccurate. Like many other primers, They reference rim thickness. Any deviation in rim thickness will result in deviation in seating depth. Very few tools do not make this reference. Sinclair and lee app are the main ones.
IMO, the cps performance is not even remotely close to its price.
Very happy with mine, but I would prefer folks buy from Ugly Reloading vs Amazon so it goes to an American vs overseas distributor.
I have 2 so I can just keep one for small and one for large on my turret all the time. The rim thickness on my brass is pretty consistent and definitely consistent enough for me.
I got a guy to 3d print me some buttons to glue on the end of the push rod so I don't have to move my hand off the handle when I come up with it on the press. I can easily just push it with my thumb and load another primer really quickly. It works great and is very fast for precision loading. I'd rather them just make the end of the push rod with a bigger spot made into it to hit but these buttons have worked very well.
I do believe that Carl of Ugly Reloading USA is the proprietor of Amazon Ugly Reloading.
oh if it's ugly then I'm sure it is. there was some other one thay Carl told me was an overseas distributor. maybe I'm confusing ebay and Amazon but I thought it was Amazon.
I bought the cheap one with out the micrometer called the Poormans PCPS lite on Amazon, Carl didn’t have that one on his website, he said he was going to add it but he didn’t. The one I bought on Amazon was from Derraco Engineering. I know that Ugly sells Derraco stuff on his website. Used it today for the first time worked great. The poor man’s version was only $79.99.
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derraco stuff that I have is all very consistently machined, and the anodizing is really good too. I finally have a priming set up that doesn't leave me looking for a better way to do precision quickly. I can fill my primer tubes and use them on my dillon or for my ugly primer. the only "issue" is the higher placement of the ugly cotter pin location, which means it won't hold 100 primers. of course you can get tube and make a little longer one.... BUT, then it won't fit in my RF100. What does work is for SRP, I can use my DAA primer machine and put the magnetic collars on a longer tube, and then I can get 100 srp in one tube and work off that when loading, but I've found that it really doesn't matter so I just pull 5 primers out each time and do it that way, with the RF100.
I like mine as well. But I am actually selling it to try out a lee app.
I'm not sure I'm following you on your button addition.
I tried the Lee and I got rid of it. maybe you will have better luck.
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Don't get me wrong, I like the PCPS due to arthritis and torn rotator cuffs.
Anyone using only the PCPS and getting consistent, desired seating depths? I’ve tried Lapua, Nosler, and Starline brass; unless I sort cases by rim thickness, it’s all over the park. Now I use the PCPS to quickly seat primers to flush or slightly below. Then, due to varied rim thicknesses, I use the RCBS Universal Hand Priming Tool individually ‘push’ the primer to the desired seating depth +- .0005”.
There's got to be a better way. What's your procedure?
I would argue that there is often half a thou of variance between primer cup thickness and 1/2 a thou below flush is a bad approach vs crush. I seat mine to full-on crush and the firing pin isn't seating them the rest of the way in the primer pocket.
Are you sure the variance you're measuring isn't measuring error, per se? What are you using to measure?
Accuracy One Precision Primer Gauge.
Don't disagree with your statement. I'm using the PCPS to initially seat at or below flush, e.g., .0005, .001, .002, etc. Then I begin the trial and error using the RCBS to my desired seating depth, based upon primer pocket depth, e.g., .122" and primer compression measurement.
Don't disagree with your statement. I'm using the PCPS to initially seat at or below flush, e.g., .0005, .001, .002, etc. Then I begin the trial and error using the RCBS to my desired seating depth, based upon primer pocket depth, e.g., .122" and primer compression measurement.
I hear you, sir. I am having flashbacks of going down this rabbit hole.
Between stacking all the variance/tolerances—(albeit every so slight) changes in primer pocket depths, cup thickness, rim thickness, anvil leg length, canted anvils, et al, I finally settled on taking an average of primer pocket depths, average primer thickness, add in ~ 0.002" of crush and ran with it...then went back and seated them another thou or two (would have to check notes) to see if I could measure any improvements over time on paper/chrono and never looked back.
Perhaps 'spurious correlation', but everything seemed to improve—shooting 0s and 1s and extremely low SD/ES ammo—the deeper I went (that's what she said), so finally just slammed them suckers home and never looked back, given I can't shoot the difference between a 2 thou and a 3 thou crush.
I do notice that the 'stop anvil' on mine isn't perfectly square with the base of the priming pin (i.e., I can see the light of day on one side, while the other side seems flush), which sort of bugs me and could also be adding to variance on my end...
Once I have uniformed my pockets, I don't have issues with consistency. I do make sure I use good pressure to seat but I shoot for 6 thou below flush and that's what I get. There is some variation in rims and thus, some variation when seating primers with any tool that holds the case with that rim, but I've not seem more than 1 thou either way (though its very rare and usually .0005 so that's a total max ES of 2 thou which is why I use 6 thou as my goal. I have not been able to see any difference on target in .005" depth vs .007" primer depth.
The best tool I've found to get consistent primer seating is the Lee ACP Bench Priming Tool. It doesn't seat off a case's rim. It seats off the base of the case the same way you'd measure the seating depth. It isn't designed to be adjustable, but there's an easy fix for that. It's my primary tool for seating primers where I get +/- .0005 variance (mostly none) and I have a 21st Century priming tool that works almost as well. Too bad Lee has discontinued the ACP. But they do have the Delux APP Press with is very similar construction and can be modified to work the same as the ACP.
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I'm retired with too much time on my hands. I didn't go down the rabbit hole, I jumped in headfirst and hit my head on the way down. These people are getting single digit SDs, I could do that! I'm getting double digit SDs... can I shoot well enough to discern the difference - NO.
When I started reloading in the 80s, I started with Lyman pistol dies and shell holders; used the Pacific/Hornady press priming tool setup. In the 90s I started reloading rifle with Hornady dies and shell holders, again using the press. Later I bought the Hornady hand priming tool and found out it would only take Hornady shell holders. Later I decided to stay with Hornady stuff for large primers and bought the RCBS Universal Priming Tool. Time went by and I wanted to do more. I seriously considered the Lee ACP BPT but realized 1) learned it was discontinued, 2) parts would be unavailable. Modify the Deluxe APP? I thought the PCPS would be the answer.
I'll keep trying... it's in my nature. And there's always another rabbit hole.
When I started reloading in the 80s, I started with Lyman pistol dies and shell holders; used the Pacific/Hornady press priming tool setup. In the 90s I started reloading rifle with Hornady dies and shell holders, again using the press. Later I bought the Hornady hand priming tool and found out it would only take Hornady shell holders. Later I decided to stay with Hornady stuff for large primers and bought the RCBS Universal Priming Tool. Time went by and I wanted to do more. I seriously considered the Lee ACP BPT but realized 1) learned it was discontinued, 2) parts would be unavailable. Modify the Deluxe APP? I thought the PCPS would be the answer.
I'll keep trying... it's in my nature. And there's always another rabbit hole.
IDK, I dig the PCPS and think it’s pretty much the best thing out there for priming cases consistently. It’s built solidly and using the press for leverage is genius and makes it fast and repeatable.
Brass is soft and malleable, something that indexes off the case head versus the rim might be ~+/- a thou better, but let’s be real, while not quite Play-Doh, arguably the brass can only be so consistent so there’s always going to be some variability in play.
I haven’t been doing this stuff as long as some, but enough to smoke ~7-8 barrels now, and while I’m after the most consistency/repeatability, I’ve crossed primer consistency off my list since getting the PCPS and don’t worry about it anymore. YMMV.
The Lee APP and its cousins were/are interesting to me too, but truthfully, IDK if I would even want to introduce all that cheap plastic that comes with one of those setups into my process after being used to the simplicity/reliability of a steel/aluminum gadget that’s more like a fancy die that will never wear out and works the same way every time.
Brass is soft and malleable, something that indexes off the case head versus the rim might be ~+/- a thou better, but let’s be real, while not quite Play-Doh, arguably the brass can only be so consistent so there’s always going to be some variability in play.
I haven’t been doing this stuff as long as some, but enough to smoke ~7-8 barrels now, and while I’m after the most consistency/repeatability, I’ve crossed primer consistency off my list since getting the PCPS and don’t worry about it anymore. YMMV.
The Lee APP and its cousins were/are interesting to me too, but truthfully, IDK if I would even want to introduce all that cheap plastic that comes with one of those setups into my process after being used to the simplicity/reliability of a steel/aluminum gadget that’s more like a fancy die that will never wear out and works the same way every time.
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