School me on precision suppressor(s) vs. brake

[Shootermagavin]

Just built a 6.5 creedmoor on impact precision, stuteville barrel. Rifle has some old AAC 7.62 brake on it and I think is a culprit for throwing a very high POI vs. POA as every other component is top notch. Groups pretty well for first trip to the range and me fumbling about getting used to it.

So I'm at the crossroad(s) of;

Area 491 Hellfire in the short term to get the POI v POA correct and then later down the road get a Suppressor (January when the $200 tax is on longer)

OR

Purchase a Thunderbeast brake now? and then purchase the corresponding can in January? Do they include a brake when the purchase of the can or is it separate? Are the best TBs direct thread or repeatable with brake attachment?

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My Thunderbeast idea is rooted from like 7-10 years ago when they were the king of precision suppression. If there's another brand or number of precision cans that are excellent I'd love to hear about them.

Small other questions: Negative effects to accuracy even with TB? Lifespan under 6.5 creedmoor? What else don't I know that I don't know.

 

[Maurygold]

The brake is very unlikely to be causing issues.

TBAC is very good but has very long wait times and quite frankly the suppressor technology has vastly improved and dead air is equally as good as far as I’m concerned (I own 2 dead air) and likely a few others are on par

The area 419 is my preferred mounting systems for supressors so thats not a bad way to go - you can also run the hellfire/ sidewinder brake now if you are intent on waiting on a supressor and use their mounting system when you get a supressor.

I expect everything to be back order for a long time when the no stamp hits. Dead air through silencershop is running free tax stamps right now you should pick up a nomad lti or you may be waiting a very long time

 

[spife7980]

Wait, you put the brake on and now you have a difference in your point of impact vs your point of aim… and you want to buy something to correct that?
Why not just zero it instead?

 

[Shootermagavin]

Old janky fitting 7.62mm AAC Brake; I'm completely down at the bottom of the elevation adjustment for the scope and it's hitting 2 feet high. That's why.

The rig's on a harris bipod, I shot it off of bags to see if it's the pod, didn't change anything. Rifle's sitting in a spuhr 0moa mount.

 

[Maurygold]

Old janky fitting 7.62mm AAC Brake; I'm completely down at the bottom of the elevation adjustment for the scope and it's hitting 2 feet high. That's why.

The rig's on a harris bipod, I shot it off of bags to see if it's the pod, didn't change anything. Rifle's sitting in a spuhr 0moa mount.

It’s very unlikely to be the brake

 

[spife7980]

What scope and how much upward elevation travel do you have available?
Sounds like you hit the zero stop to me and just need to unlock/adjust downwards to open more elevation travel.

It’s possible, I suppose, but I think it’s highly unlikely that a muzzle brake is causing 8+ mils of elevation error.

 

[Shootermagavin]

Vortex Razor HD 6-36 - Let me check; I don't think I set the zero stop at any point with it...

 

[Runnineh]

Old janky fitting 7.62mm AAC Brake; I'm completely down at the bottom of the elevation adjustment for the scope and it's hitting 2 feet high. That's why.

The rig's on a harris bipod, I shot it off of bags to see if it's the pod, didn't change anything. Rifle's sitting in a spuhr 0moa mount.

Janky fitting? I can only see that as meaning the threading is wrong, or poor thread cutting on either the barrel or brake. If it's the thread on the barrel nothing will help it.
Something is off about this scenario you have going.

 

[Shootermagavin]

This is the scope 'bottomed out' - I can't tell visually if this is a zero stop in action or not, maybe someone here can.

 

[Shootermagavin]

Janky fitting? I can only see that as meaning the threading is wrong, or poor thread cutting on either the barrel or brake. If it's the thread on the barrel nothing will help it.
Something is off about this scenario you have going.

Appears off a couple of degrees to me to not having completely correct shim kit to time it** is what I mean by janky.

 

[spife7980]

View attachment 8744966
This is the scope 'bottomed out' - I can't tell visually if this is a zero stop in action or not, maybe someone here can.

Turn the turret all the way back down to 0.
Then, unlock the single Allen screw on the side and use the inner slotted turret to adjust your zero.
It’s there in the manual.

VTX_M-00311-0_RZR_HD-G3_RS_P_PM_WEB.pdf

vortexoptics.widen.net

 

[Rob01]

View attachment 8744966
This is the scope 'bottomed out' - I can't tell visually if this is a zero stop in action or not, maybe someone here can.

You are not zeroing correctly. Put the elevation knob at 0 and lock it. Then loosen that little screw sticking out at you on the elevation knob. Then use the tool that came with the scope or a coin to turn the knob on the top to zero and then snug up the screw and zeroed.

 

[Shootermagavin]

Perfect, thank you - we'll go back to range soon. Woops.

 

[Roadrace33]

It sounds like you got it figured out but to answer some earlier questions, yes every thunderbeast can will come with a brake to attach it. Yes they are extremely repeatable. I was amazed how good they are. Who really even knows the tax stamp situation. If you’re able to buy a suppressor now, and want one then just do it. That $200 could very easily change to 0$ and it could also very easily go higher than $200.

For the time being use that brake you’ve got or get a better one, like an Ace, A419, MDT, or if you can afford it get a Chad. Stutevilles prefits are great. I’ve got a ton of them. One in 6.5cm and it shoots .25 with Hornady 140 factory ammo.

For precision suppressors look at Abel company also. I just got their Theorem L with the brake on the end of it and I LOVE it. I might like it even more than my Tbacs. It’s quiet, and drops recoil. I shot about 100 rounds of dasher through a Magnus S RR and the theorem, and the theorem is slightly less recoil.