If you love your rifle, and still have the OEM pipe on it, my suggestion is to buy a new drop in now and have it ready when your group size opens up. With a set of Go/No-Go gauges, it is not a difficult task. IMO.
Finally getting to spend a little time with the Gen 4 butt stock. I am really enjoying it, I didn’t hate the original stock but like this one a lot more.
Anyone else have an issue with cases ejecting straight into your knuckles? I don’t remember ever having it happen but it has started lately.
Anyone else have an issue with cases ejecting straight into your knuckles? I don’t remember ever having it happen but it has started lately.
Just thought i'd chime in and say I have two Ruger Precisions, one in 300 WM and one in 338 Lapua, and both shoot .75 MOA just like my custom built PRS chassis rifles. People have overlooked this rifle in recent years but at its price point I think its still as relevant as ever.
Question for you reloaders…. Have any of you found that you had to develop different loads for different brands of brass? I did my load development using Hornady brass, but want to load some Starline. Can I use the same Hornady loads with the Starline brass and expect the same accuracy?
Check the H2O capacity of the different brands, if close to same you should be good to go.
Yes, brass volume will change your load. Changing manufacturers or sometimes even different lots of the same manufacturer will change your load.
Going from hornady to Peterson I had to drop 1.5gr to get the same node of accuracy and speed. I couldn't even make it to my original hornady load before I ran into pressure.
You're two different head stamps can have very different case volumes. Different case volumes will produce different results in proportion to the difference in volumes. When you measure cases volumes, which should be at least 10 to get a good idea, be sure to do the measuring on fired cases (before sizing) as the case size for volume and its effects is a result of the size of your particular guns chamber dimensions.
I happen to have fired both Hornady and Starline brass and both of my particular batches have the same case volumes (55.5 grs H2O). But I also have some Hornady Match Defense Black brass that have case volumes of 57.5 grs H20.
Any time you change to a different brand or a different lot of brass, it's always a good idea to take a measurement of case volumes so you get a good idea what you might have to do for changing your load or not.
Rats…. I was afraid of that. Thanks much for the quick replies! …and the explanation.
You might be able to drop a couple grains and then work your way back up to the same velocity you were getting with the Hornady brass and recheck accuracy (if you are using same powder, same bullet, same barrel)
Not a guaranteed result, but worth checking...
Not a guaranteed result, but worth checking...
Note, it is not my rifle, never has been and I have no business interest in the gunshop and I will not be receiving any compensation if this rifle is sold.
Ranger Firearms in Ft Walton Beach, Florida is going out of business. They have two used Ruger Precision Rifles. The one I thought people here might be interested in is a Custom Shop Model in 6.5 Creedmoor. It appears brand new. It is priced below $1500 and includes a Vortex Diamondback Scope mounted and a bipod of unknown make. At this time, Florida has a sales tax holiday in Firearms and accessories.
If anyone has any interest, DON’T contact me, contact Ranger Firearms.
Ranger Firearms in Ft Walton Beach, Florida is going out of business. They have two used Ruger Precision Rifles. The one I thought people here might be interested in is a Custom Shop Model in 6.5 Creedmoor. It appears brand new. It is priced below $1500 and includes a Vortex Diamondback Scope mounted and a bipod of unknown make. At this time, Florida has a sales tax holiday in Firearms and accessories.
If anyone has any interest, DON’T contact me, contact Ranger Firearms.
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I have a Gen 1 223 RPR, and the barrel still has a lot of life. However, I want to change to a heavier barrel and am having problems finding a drop-in. I would be thankful for any information on where to look. As I said, a heavy barrel, threaded muzzle, and in stock.Thanks
I doubt you will find a drop in for the RPR. Those barrels are special. At least they used to be threaded. Buy a barrel from Ruger for it and keep the 223 too.
Ruger Precision Barrel, 223, 24-Inch, 1-7 Twist
Ruger Precision Barrels chambered in 223 Remington (Wylde), 24" 1-7 Twist. Our barrel arrives ready to install on your 223 Ruger Precision Rifle. Each barrel ships with our exclusive breech end thread protector installed. Our thread protector is preci
www.whiteoakarmament.com
Just a point, I think the 5.56 was Gen II.
Ruger Precision Barrel, 223, 24-Inch, 1-7 Twist
Ruger Precision Barrels chambered in 223 Remington (Wylde), 24" 1-7 Twist. Our barrel arrives ready to install on your 223 Ruger Precision Rifle. Each barrel ships with our exclusive breech end thread protector installed. Our thread protector is preci
www.whiteoakarmament.com
Easy choice, shoot them an email just to double check.
Edit: did not see the post above me put in the same link. The white oak barrel will be a hammer! Enjoy
Thanks. After a little research, it looks to be a good buy. There are not a lot of reviews on the Rem 223; most are 6.5. My RPR is a Gen 1; I bought it when it first came out. It cost me a lot of money, for it was my first precision rifle, truly, I went down the Rabbit Hole, but I love it down here.
OK, I let go of the money. I've got a Krieger coming next week from White Oak for the 223. Next comes the changeout. I have a barrel vice, a go-and-no-go gauge, and a torque wrench. I hope that's all that I will need. Does anyone have a word of wisdom that will help in the process? This will be the first time changing out the Ruger. I am hoping for a no-issue task. What are my chances?
I cannot speak to the veracity of this suggestion, but keep this one in mind.
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Hey guys, after spending quite a bit of time trying to remove my Ruger Precision barrel yesterday, I just wanted to share a simple tip on loosening the barrel nut.
For me, the armorers wrench + breaker bar method was not working since the wrench would slip off once a considerable amount of torque was applied. I even tried heat and counter torque against the receiver. Nothing was working and I was getting pretty frustrated. I thought to myself, an impact wrench would make quick work of this darn thing, and then it hit me...you can use an impact wrench on the breaker bar slot. Low and behold, the barrel nut came off almost instantly.
-- Not me
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Hey guys, after spending quite a bit of time trying to remove my Ruger Precision barrel yesterday, I just wanted to share a simple tip on loosening the barrel nut.
For me, the armorers wrench + breaker bar method was not working since the wrench would slip off once a considerable amount of torque was applied. I even tried heat and counter torque against the receiver. Nothing was working and I was getting pretty frustrated. I thought to myself, an impact wrench would make quick work of this darn thing, and then it hit me...you can use an impact wrench on the breaker bar slot. Low and behold, the barrel nut came off almost instantly.
-- Not me
Picture please. I cannot picture in my mind, how any of my breaking bars would work with am impact wrench. I own three, one three eights and two half inch.
I think he means in the armorer's wrench...where you'd insert the breaker bar
You may have already done it, but did you go onto to Google and ask how to change an RPR barrel? There was a step-by-step on there. If you need it I can go back and find it. Just an FYI
If I remember, when I changed mine, a breaker bar in a Magpul armorer's wrench didn't budge it....had to use a dead blow hammer on the wrench to finally get it to break free...so an impact wrench might not be a bad idea. Can't remember if I ended up putting some heat on the nut or not, but I was considering it
With the issues we had changing ours, all I can say is whoever Ruger hires to torque on barrels, needs to be entered into the World’s Strongest Man contests as well as a Super Heavyweight class in Olympic weightlifting. That man (or heaven forbid woman) must be able to benchrest a house.
UPDATE: Guys, I guess all the reading, research, and begging for help and insight that I got paid off. I got a call today that my barrel should ship this week. So I disassembled the rifle this afternoon to get an early start thinking of all the problems I could have. I placed the barrel in the Viper vice with a leather collar, very tightly placed the wrench on the nut, three blows with a rubber mallet, and off it came. Thank God
I"ve been thinking of upgrading my Ruger marksman factory trigger with a Timney Triggers upgrade for the RPR.
Timney Trigger RPR Ugrade
Did it improve you accuracy?
I'd like to know if anyone else has done one of these upgrade with their RPR. What was you experience with it.?
Thanks
Timney Trigger RPR Ugrade
Did it improve you accuracy?
I'd like to know if anyone else has done one of these upgrade with their RPR. What was you experience with it.?
Thanks
IDK if it improved the accuracy, but it improved the trigger.
I have a lr-308 that shoots sub moa (from a bench and sand bags) with FGMM, and that with a mil-spec AR trigger. It has a SSA-E in it now. It’s not not more accurate, but the trigger is better…
A trigger really isn't about accuracy per se. A trigger can make your pull so soft that it does not cause any vibration of your rifle that might affect the accuracy. It needs to be smooth and have no disruptions in the pull. Aim, barrel, breath, heartbeat, etc all can impact the accuracy
