I’m debating with myself whether or not there are good enough factory barreled actions out there or if I should just wait longer to save up for a full custom. For context I’m still building a 6mm arc bolt gun that’s mainly just for long range target shooting but I’ll use it to hunt as well. I want a longer barrel to take full advantage of the velocity I can get out of the pretty moderate cartridge. I plan on shooting the projectiles in the 105-110 range. I have a lot of cfe 223 that isn’t being used. Since it is a pretty light recoiling cartridge I can get a pretty light system I plan on using a brake simply because I just can’t afford a suppressor yet. I really like the idea of the Christensen mpr but I know christensen has had a lot of issues recently and I don’t like the 16 inch barrel, maybe just buy the bare chassis? I had a Howa mini action in 6 arc I was in love with but unfortunately had to part ways with because of financial issues. On a somewhat related note does anyone know of any other mini length custom actions out there I can’t find diddly on if another than Howa currently makes one.
Semi custom or full custom bolt gun?
- Thread starter LandenR6arc
- Start date
Do not. Under any circumstance. Buy Christensen anything.
Origin + proof prefit + Triggertech is always the cheapest and best solution to going custom with extreme quality.
Tikka or seekins is the preferred factory options depending on price point.
I’m a big fan of building guns and recommend that route because if you buy factory you’re always going to wonder and want a custom gun.
Origin + proof prefit + Triggertech is always the cheapest and best solution to going custom with extreme quality.
Tikka or seekins is the preferred factory options depending on price point.
I’m a big fan of building guns and recommend that route because if you buy factory you’re always going to wonder and want a custom gun.
Also for further context. The only custom action I’ve handled was a terminus Zeus that a friend owns and I liked it a lot but it didn’t feel as smooth as a tikka, not that smooth matters that much but I want something that is very fast to operate.
Yes Zermatt origin. It will make a tikka feel like sandpaper on drywall
Have you had any problems with the non integrated recoil lug? The price point is very attractive, and it beats the hell out of buying a full tikka rifle just to have to spin off the brand new barrel and get the bolt face machined out to a PPC bolt face(would have to get a 223 bold face to make it work)
Don’t get a mini action for the ARC. Period. No reason.
There is no problem with the pinned recoil lug on the Origin. Once the barrel is on you will never notice it.
Only thing I would change with the original recommendation is get a PVA Osprey instead of the Proof. You can get it whatever length and contour you want. I got mine with flutes. Pic below of my 26” 6ARC. I have changed the scope and chassis since then but gives you an idea.
Why not the mini action, mag lengt isn’t a big issue for me i would pretty much change out the bottom metal for a Jefferson outdoors i believe it gives me a good amount of mag length to load them long. And if I go with a chassis they have their own BM that should take longer mags. Also if you don’t mind what load are you using in your set up.
Why a mini chassis is a better question? Does nothing for you with the round and limits you to short rounds if you wanted to try something else. Get an Origin and you can have any short action caliber you want with the ease of a bolt head change. You limit yourself massively going with a mini action. That action in the pic I have a .223, .308, 6 Creed and 6.5 Creed barrels I can spin on it.
I’m shooting factory 108 ELDs in it but also loading 110 ATips with CFE223 and getting them around 2750fps if memory serves. Would have to check for exact velocity but it’s in that area.
I just have an attachment to the mini action because I owned one previously. But I like the idea of being able to switch to a different cartridge like 6 prc I’m a big 6mm fan so that’s likely where I would go after I get tired of 6 arc. Also question about the 110 atips I know the ogive is a lot longer are you able to seat them out longer without jamming them in a saami chamber or do you have a longer throat? I saw on another 6 arc load data thread that guys running bergers had to get their chambers throated longer so they could load the bullets out longer without eating up case capacity.
Your money so do as you like but I’d never recommend a mini chassis.
No long throat in mine. I have the 110s loaded at 2.355” and again I will have to check but it’s probably in the .020-.030” off lands as that is where I like to stay. Below is a pic of my loaded ammo and a bullet. Doesn’t go too deep into the case.
Are you using hornady dies. I’m pretty new to reloading so I’m trying to get as much information as I can. I heard L.E Wilson dies are good dies.
General rule of thumb is to stay away from hornady anything. If you’re a very high Volume shooter with PRs the bullets might make sense.
If you want absolute accuracy - Berger
Wilson are good dies > whidden > short action customs.
All are very good though
Yup using the Hornady Matchgrade dies with neck bushings setting .002” of neck tension. I have no issue loading very accurate ammo with them.
Being new to loading you will learn there is a good amount of opinions where some will only use brand x and brand y sucks. I have used other brands over the years and never had a problem with the Hornady dies but I don’t usually use the cheapest entry level although I did back in 2008 when the 6.5 Creedmoor came out and they were the only ones out and they loaded great ammo too. Still have that die set in use.
I’ll have to try out cfe 223 and if it meters well in my old school powder drop I’m hoping to get half minute groups out of it. 223 seems to be one of the only temp stable powders people can get good velocity from.
