Horse Power, Track Shit, Torque, Cubic Inches, Liters, Run What Ya Brung, Auto or Cycle

You rich Guppy pilots have all the toys

I was saving since last year to build a 40x40 and had like 40k saved up. Then the realization that what I wanted to build was almost 90k for concrete and a shell and I didnt want to wait another year+ to save that money. Im in this building/concrete for 30k including the 50ft driveway extension/apron that I needed. So I had money left over, sort of... wasnt planning on having to do the retaining wall/planter bed... was planning on electricity, but thats going to have to wait.
 
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The way I am LS swapping I will be about 150lbs over a BP. Engine is ~100lb heavier give or take(dressed BP is ~300, dressed aluminum LS is ~400). BP motor is iron block/aluminum head vs. full aluminum LS. Trans is about 40lbs heavier(90lb Miata 6spd, 130lb T56 Magnum F). Rear end is +10 give or take(55lb miata vs. 65lb ford aluminum 8.8). Sub frames are heavier than factory pieces(unsure by what). Driveshaft slightly heavier. Axle shafts slightly heavier. Front to rear balance changes towards the front a bit. A buddy runs a 50lb steel plate in his trunk to balance out the car a bit. With 400+ whp it simply doesnt matter near as much if you add 150-200lbs onto a 2200lb car. Its going to be a violent ride regardless.

Rotary's have shit support in general and make what, 50hp over a BP at a bajilioin dollars cost. Would be a cool project, but just no... My buddies dad has one. Its fun, but he takes out his other cars far more often.




k24 swap costs damn near what an LS swap costs to do correctly and you end up with half the HP and a motor that vibrates itself to death, still dealing with the shit Miata transmission and rear end(unless you swap to a different trans and rear end, which just adds more cost)... I think they can make fine conversions on the street, but put them on the track and you are going to blow shit up.

Ozarks isnt nearly as bad as it seems IMO. Even the first time I went I was like "this isnt as bad as people make it out to be". MOST of the "haters" of Ozark that tell you how dangerous it is have never been... but thats the case with almost everything these days when somebody tells you how to do something and you say "how many times have you done it that way" and the answer is "well ive heard" or "I watched it on youtube" or "ive been elsewhere so that corelates to this also"... the answer is they have never been somewhere or done something that they want to give their opinion or expert advice on. None of my track buddies will tell you Ozark is dangerous. Does it require a bit more skill than other tracks, sure, but dangerous...no. Its an FIA rated track so its got runoff, armco, tire walls, sand traps, etc... where they need to be.



Dont know on the NC although we are building my buddies after we do mine. On an NB you gain about 100lbs up front.




As I laid out above its at least 150lbs and probably more like 200lbs. But going from 130whp to likely 400+ whp, 200lbs isnt going to affect anything that I will be able to tell. Likely about +100 on the front end. My BP is pretty stripped and so will the LS. No A/C, no Power steering, etc... Just an alternator, water pump, etc... LS accessories are far heavier than same on a BP so I expect to be under that 100lb weight difference by a bit(maybe 10lbs). I have no way to weight the motors unless I can get a friends 1000lb corner weight scale.


Here is an acquaintance LS Miata. He's been doing LS miata stuff for like 6 or 7 years. Has it pretty dialed in. 150mph in a Miata is NUTS...

Holy shit that thing is squirrelly as fuck on the power ...LOL
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Finally picked up my LS today thats going in the Miata.

6.0 L76 block bored 4.010
4.8 crank(destroked to basically a 327)
Wiseco +11.7cc dome forged pistons
Callies Compstar 6.250 h-beam 4340 rods
King and Durabond bearings
all ARP hardware
custom Cam-Motion cam

Heads are just stock LS3 821 heads that have been skimmed to clean them up. Have the factory 2 piece intake valve and stainless exhaust(or whatever the OE exhaust is). Getting BTR shaft rocker setup, .660 platinum springs w/titanium retainers. Stock LS3 intake manifold. Gen 5 Camaro exhaust manifolds.

Still need to get lifters(Johnson 2126LSR) and pushrods(manton 3/8 oil restricted).

Should be 11.25 compression with an .040 Cometic gasket.





 
Annual Mountain States VW Drag Racing Association hit our local track over the weekend. Great time as usual….our quirky VW drag friends are the best. We had a great time with our stupid little cars. My little street car went a best 14.80 at 93mph and I ended going a couple rounds in street (slow class).
My buddies outlaw turbo Karmann
Ghia went low 9’s
He’s got to be a mid 8 in the quarter to be competitive in Texas in a couple weeks at a huge VW Shootout. We shall see!
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2R5A0261 copy.jpeg
 
Finally picked up my LS today thats going in the Miata.

6.0 L76 block bored 4.010
4.8 crank(destroked to basically a 327)
Wiseco +11.7cc dome forged pistons
Callies Compstar 6.250 h-beam 4340 rods
King and Durabond bearings
all ARP hardware
custom Cam-Motion cam

Heads are just stock LS3 821 heads that have been skimmed to clean them up. Have the factory 2 piece intake valve and stainless exhaust(or whatever the OE exhaust is). Getting BTR shaft rocker setup, .660 platinum springs w/titanium retainers. Stock LS3 intake manifold. Gen 5 Camaro exhaust manifolds.

Still need to get lifters(Johnson 2126LSR) and pushrods(manton 3/8 oil restricted).

Should be 11.25 compression with an .040 Cometic gasket.





Looking good,
Consider changing at least the exhaust valves as they sometimes go bang & ruin your day.
Edit to add pics
 

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Mainly if they are revved hard or accidently cop an overrev,
not super common but I've seen a few in the last couple of years.
My pics are from an LSA that broke an input shaft a few months earlier.
 
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Mainly if they are revved hard or accidently cop an overrev,
not super common but I've seen a few in the last couple of years.
My pics are from an LSA that broke an input shaft a few months earlier.

ive done some searching on it and im just not seeing it be a widespread issue... And i wouldnt expect anything to live during an over rev...

Certainly nothing to the level of like the LS7 valve guide issue.

Lots of guys running the stock LS3/LSA valves to 7500+ RPM so im not terribly concerned about them. Not enough to spend a few hundred on valves and then send the heads out for a valve job...
 
Annual Mountain States VW Drag Racing Association hit our local track over the weekend. Great time as usual….our quirky VW drag friends are the best. We had a great time with our stupid little cars. My little street car went a best 14.80 at 93mph and I ended going a couple rounds in street (slow class).
My buddies outlaw turbo Karmann
Ghia went low 9’s
He’s got to be a mid 8 in the quarter to be competitive in Texas in a couple weeks at a huge VW Shootout. We shall see!View attachment 8750845
My big pimpin is slow too, don’t feel bad
IMG_1842.jpeg
 
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Here's my newest ride! 😁 🤜 A 2025 Birel AM29. Started karting in '05 or '06 and worked for the yellow kart chassis(behind) at a kart shop in Carlsbad, CA. I've had that one since '07. My yellow chassis was designed for 2-stroke power and isn't flexible enough for the 206 Briggs & Stratton i'm running now. I was 1.2" off pace with my other kart. After much "convincing," my beautiful other half agreed to it and after 18 years.....i've FINALLY earned a new chassis capable for leading the pack. First race was last sunday(8/17) and qualified DFL and was exactly 1.0" off pole pace. (34.50" was pole. I qual'd at 35.55') 1.000" on the clock was all that separated 10 racers(Let that be an indication for how competitive it is). My tires were 3 track days old, so....I was completely fucked with my rubbers anyway(pun intended). But, with some new rubbers next race, I'm really excited to get back into the fight and race up in the front again. :cool:
 
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