Truck prices / employee discount

j-moose32

Gunny Sergeant
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Apr 13, 2019
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Figured this would get the most traction here.

Been looking around for a new Chevy truck. Some dealers are advertising big discounts and when you call for the quote , they say “that advertised price is only applicable with the employee discount. Are you eligible for that? “

Annoying as hell. I know this is antics but those dealers quickly are off my list.

How does one qualify for the employee discount if you don’t work for GM? Anyone here get it before?
 
Work for a dealership or GM corporate. Dealers aren't allowed to advertise it normally, I'm surprised they are doing that.

Best thing to do is decide what options in what truck, and use the online searches to find them. Then let the salesmen compete for your business.
That’s what I’m doing via online, but ALOT of places are advertising XXXX off, and then when you call / email, they tell ya that is the employee price advertised
 
Create a new email address
Set up a google voice #

When you know what you want- jump onto Edmund's and they let you reach out to 5-10 dealers via your new email and new google voice #.

Explain what you want - color - models - features etc
No need to discuss trade in where they make $$$ nor financing.

Repeat a second time with Edmund's but change your zip code 30miles north or south

You will end up with legit offers

You will be added to their email lists and call lists forever - but you don't care as it's a free google voice # and email you will never use again.

End of month & end of quarter they have volume goals to hit.

You can get a decent deal

Costco has an auto program too. If a member just search for costco auto program to see if they have your model listed.
 
Or, think about not buying a new truck. Chevy is having engine failures, Ford's electronics suck, both use the same absolutely horrible 10 spd transmissions to stumble you down the road and the cost is terrible. And all makes have absolutely crap electronics.

I bought a new truck last year. It made me miss my old truck an awful lot. The new tailgate has five connectors and when removed for the truck camper seems to cripple the electronics even with the camper bypass plugs installed. It thinks I'm hauling a trailer and does weird crap as you drive. Constant cross traffic alerts and stuff. Dealer says, yeah its like that.

Next truck will be a 2001 of some sort.
 
Figured this would get the most traction here.

Been looking around for a new Chevy truck. Some dealers are advertising big discounts and when you call for the quote , they say “that advertised price is only applicable with the employee discount. Are you eligible for that? “

Annoying as hell. I know this is antics but those dealers quickly are off my list.

How does one qualify for the employee discount if you don’t work for GM? Anyone here get it before?

I’m not sure about GM employee pricing, but I qualify for GM vendor pricing. I’ve used it once, but probably never again. GM just doesn’t make anything I want to own that qualifies for their vendor pricing.
 
I got the employee discount on my chevy truck back in 2013 (haven’t bought a vehicle since). You get if you are the child or spouse of a person who works there or retired from there.

My wifes dad.

During covid no dealers were opting in for the employee pricing.

So, basically it’s a scam. Like all things in life. Dont even get me going on the price of high end audio.

There is supposed to be a new Silverado SS truck that you can get a 650 horse motor but that just seems like a scam also. Just 3rd party junk

You can’t even get 373 gears anymore and they force a 6 cylinder diesel in the max tow package. LAME.
 
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Considering they can’t build a gas V8 for their 1/2 tons that doesn’t have faulty lifters (displacement on demand), or crankshafts with rough journal finishes that eat main and rod bearings (6.2L) I would avoid anything but the 3.0L Duramax in the 1/2 tons.
 
Considering they can’t build a gas V8 for their 1/2 tons that doesn’t have faulty lifters (displacement on demand), or crankshafts with rough journal finishes that eat main and rod bearings (6.2L) I would avoid anything but the 3.0L Duramax in the 1/2 tons.
My 2013 is a 6.2 and ive had zero issues with that motor. Ive had diesel mechanics in the last year telling me the 3.0 duramax has all kinds of issues.

So, im back to “they all suck”. Id rather have nothing than ever buy a dodge. So, I guess it would be a Toyota.

Basically, id have to get some kind of chevy b/c of employee pricing.

Id just keep the 2013 max tow.
 
Work for a dealership or GM corporate. Dealers aren't allowed to advertise it normally, I'm surprised they are doing that.

Best thing to do is decide what options in what truck, and use the online searches to find them. Then let the salesmen compete for your business.
My problem is I cant find the one online with options I want. Good luck finding one thats not a “crew cab”. I want the ext cab with smaller door and gives more bed size. With the 6.2 liter max tow options and 373 gears in a 10 speed. I guess 349 gears in a 10 would be ok but not what I really want.
 
My 2013 is a 6.2 and ive had zero issues with that motor. Ive had diesel mechanics in the last year telling me the 3.0 duramax has all kinds of issues.

So, im back to “they all suck”. Id rather have nothing than ever buy a dodge. So, I guess it would be a Toyota.

Basically, id have to get some kind of chevy b/c of employee pricing.

Id just keep the 2013 max tow.

If I was forced to buy a new full size truck right now, and had to set aside brand preferences for Toyota (the new Tundra has had its fair share of problems) I would break it down in this order:

1.) Ford F-250 4X4 crew cab 6’8” bed, with the 7.3L gas V8. Simple large displacement V8, regular reliable port fuel injection, no variable displacement lifters to fail.

2.) GM 2500 4X4 crew cab 6’8” bed, 6.6L gas V8. Same as above except with direct injection, only so it lands in 2nd place because DI only engines have a nasty habit of excessive carbon build up on intake valves.

3.) Any 3/4 ton turbo diesel. They will all be maintenance nightmares, and idiotically expensive. Only a viable option if you tow several times a week vocationally, or for long distances on a monthly basis.

Stay light on options on all of them if possible to reduce costs, and the amount of optional equipment that will probably fail.

I hate the idea of any of those choices so much I continue to drive a 2007 Toyota Tundra that looks it’s age these days.
 
I had a 1999 Ford F150, original motor with 411k miles that is finally needing a second transmission. I broke down and bought a 2025 Bighorn 1500 , 4x4 with the new Hurricane motor for 40K. We'll see what happens.
 
I had a 1999 Ford F150, original motor with 411k miles that is finally needing a second transmission. I broke down and bought a 2025 Bighorn 1500 , 4x4 with the new Hurricane motor for 40K. We'll see what happens.
 
Thanks for the replies. The Edmunds idea from @hermosabeach is a good one. I’ve been on the truck locator and calling nationwide and haggling and showing dealers the others offers. Pain the the ass but worth it in the end.

I also have a 2013 6.2 with 235xxx on it. I just need 4 doors now.

I do see there are lots of issues but I like to be optimistic and think for every 1 bad truck with a bashing thread online, there is 2,000 good ones that no one talks about.

My father was saying way back how the new trucks sucked compared to old ones; and I’m sure I’ll be saying the same one day ha
 
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My problem is I cant find the one online with options I want. Good luck finding one thats not a “crew cab”. I want the ext cab with smaller door and gives more bed size. With the 6.2 liter max tow options and 373 gears in a 10 speed. I guess 349 gears in a 10 would be ok but not what I really want.

Crew cab resale will be far better.

3.73 vs 3.49 with a 10 speed is not noticeable. Look at the transmission ratios, and you'll see why.

6.2s need heavier than the 0w-20 oil they spec, use 0w-40 or 5w-40 and they are doing fine.
 
Considering they can’t build a gas V8 for their 1/2 tons that doesn’t have faulty lifters (displacement on demand), or crankshafts with rough journal finishes that eat main and rod bearings (6.2L) I would avoid anything but the 3.0L Duramax in the 1/2 tons.

Lifters suck, but it's not as widespread among those that actually change their oil as it is the 30k change cycle crowd.
6.2s need thicker oil than specd. Unless you tear the motor down when brand new you can't say they have rough finishes. They're all rough when they've had a failure that ran junk through them.

The Duramax is great if you spend a few $ every 100k for the oil pump belt. It's in the pan in the back of the motor, and only requires removing the transmission and rear seals for replacement 🤣
 
Well 100K is also a great time to do your second drain and fill of transmission fluid and other gear oils. While you’re there you might as well…

I will be curious to see if an aftermarket chain driven oil pump might be offered in the future to eliminate that service.

As for rough finishes/defects on the rotating assemblies of current 6.2L’s that is from GM. Hence their recall and service campaign to fix engines that shit the bed and change the oil grade to 0W-40 from 0W-20 on engines that haven’t failed.


 
How does one qualify for the employee discount if you don’t work for GM? Anyone here get it before?

A lot of corporations and wholesale clubs are eligible for the discount, I know we get it thru our corporation.

Then again, I was able to negotiate a much better deal at the dealership than the "discount" offered.
 
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I’ll keep calling around and try the Edmund’s things. I’d love to get a diesel but don’t make money with it so hard to justify.

If / when the emissions crap goes away, then I would consider the diesel.