Leveling a scope

Which one of the four is correct ?? either way 3 are wrong
exactly who is calibrating the ones you buy ?? the OP has a machinist level the only one posted so far that is truly accurate. I look at some of these "levels" and laugh I wouldn't trust them to be within a few degrees.
I had a laugh too on the differences of ha ha levels until i thought about carpenters building my house
 
  • Haha
Reactions: carbonbased
vise will go onto a granite surface plate that's been leveled in all directions.

So I will level the rifle in a vise with my machinist level (Starrett Master) accurate .0005 on 10in

Once leveled, hang a plumb bob. Install bottom of rings, Mount scope with eye relief. Tighten lower ring to rail.

Mount scope loosely tighten rings evenly enough scope can rotate. Shine light through objective, rotate scope to align to reticle against plumb bob. Cross tighten rings slowly, verify no change in alignment.

Once done double check, then check reticle alignment viewed through objective as a double check.

Go have fun this weekend.

Been interesting reading comments

Stick is a McMillan fiberglass stocked, Remington 700bdl, Hart Stainless heavy barrel in 300 win mag, With Steiner Optics in mil dots. I'd love S&B, but that price tag....
that worked on my 300 win mag
 
  • Like
Reactions: jp1957

1757063684753.png


Pimping an old thread :ROFLMAO:
 
All a plumb bob does is level the scope to the barrel plane

If you didn't start with a level rifle plane as a base, you will likely have cant.

My way both items are level to a level plane and 0 cant, which is what you want in the end

It's really that simple

When I'm done, both scope and barrel will be within .001in of a level plane. No Mount level will ever have that accuracy.
(All a plumb bob does is level the scope to the barrel plane), op this is all you need. As long as you are shooting the same every time, I have a bubble level in my stock and on my scope and forget to use them most of the time anyway. But if you wanna put that much effort into it go for it.
 
Arisaka Leveling tool or Feeler Gagues. The plumb line method is maddening.

Think those 2 lines drawn on the tube, somewhere in China, by the lowest bidder are precise? Guarantee a deck of cards is more accurate than lining up multiple bubble levels against a string.
Just lose the bubble levels and use string only
 
  • Like
Reactions: FRESHPRINCE556
Which one of the four is correct ?? either way 3 are wrong
exactly who is calibrating the ones you buy ?? the OP has a machinist level the only one posted so far that is truly accurate. I look at some of these "levels" and laugh I wouldn't trust them to be within a few degrees.
The plumb line is correct. All 4 may be wrong
 
  • Like
Reactions: ironpony52
vise will go onto a granite surface plate that's been leveled in all directions.

So I will level the rifle in a vise with my machinist level (Starrett Master) accurate .0005 on 10in

Once leveled, hang a plumb bob. Install bottom of rings, Mount scope with eye relief. Tighten lower ring to rail.

Mount scope loosely tighten rings evenly enough scope can rotate. Shine light through objective, rotate scope to align to reticle against plumb bob. Cross tighten rings slowly, verify no change in alignment.

Once done double check, then check reticle alignment viewed through objective as a double check.

Go have fun this weekend.

Been interesting reading comments

Stick is a McMillan fiberglass stocked, Remington 700bdl, Hart Stainless heavy barrel in 300 win mag, With Steiner Optics in mil dots. I'd love S&B, but that price tag....

Then spin it 180 and double check against plumb line or to get really anal 90 degree increments.
 
OK so what diameter "string" on the plumb line ? as you could be off trying to make the reticle parallel to the line..........
Love it. Exactly - and you need to measure the gap distance between the reticle and the top edge of the string, then between the reticle and bottom edge of the string. Make sure the gap is the same. Or, drop the reticle on the string and center it on the left and right edges, top and bottom. And the reticle can't be wider than the string because then you can't tell if the reticle is canted top to bottom. Yes, those kind of things bother me.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: jp1957
Have we actually talked anyone into mounting a scope here yet?
well when i first came to the forum and asked about a scope i just gave up and kept my decades old one and when i changed mounts for it i just left the top straps loose and turned it level then tightened them ......after trying all the leveling advice for days . its a 300 win mag if its hits in a 12 circle its dead
 
  • Like
Reactions: roostercogburn98
Then spin it 180 and double check against plumb line or to get really anal 90 degree increments.
Shine light through objective, rotate scope to align to reticle against plumb bob. Cross tighten rings slowly, verify no change in alignment.

Once done double check, then check reticle alignment viewed through objective as a double check
 
  • Like
Reactions: sloporsche
Love it. Exactly - and you need to measure the gap distance between the reticle and the top edge of the string, then between the reticle and bottom edge of the string. Make sure the gap is the same. Or, drop the reticle on the string and center it on the left and right edges, top and bottom. And the reticle can't be wider than the string because then you can't tell if the reticle is canted top to bottom. Yes, those kind of things bother me.
I was thinking more about exactly this.

My thoughts was shining flashlight through objective onto a wall with a plumb bob already hanging on it.
Rather than try to align, place rifle image next to plumb bob, and use a digital caliper to measure top and bottom distances. Get to within a thousandth. (Now I havent tried this part yet) shing light thorough eyepiece, do the same. If not, have to do it visually.

Once all done there, probably try visually with more distance
 
All a plumb bob does is level the scope to the barrel plane

If you didn't start with a level rifle plane as a base, you will likely have cant.

My way both items are level to a level plane and 0 cant, which is what you want in the end

It's really that simple

When I'm done, both scope and barrel will be within .001in of a level plane. No Mount level will ever have that accuracy.
Are you using a rifle or scope mounted level that is leveled to your reticle while shooting?
 
Are you using a rifle or scope mounted level that is leveled to your reticle while shooting?
thats the plan. Accuracy 1st states their level is accurate within 1d as I recall. When I order one, we'll find out how accurate it really is

The US optics ones suck, not only for visibility, but for accuracy too. I have an RMA for them, but I'm kind of in the camp of who cares, not going to use them, nor pass them onto to anyone else
 
You need a $250 device from SAC to be able to level a scope. There’s no other way. Before this was invented, people just guessed.

You don’t use the SAC final level for that, “He who blows smoke💨🤠(you can).

It’s primarily used to check your scope’s tracking from a solid level base. That is why I bought one and what I mainly used it for. They hold their value extremely well too. So once you are done you can get most of your money back out of it on the used market.
 
You don’t use the SAC final level for that, “He who blows smoke💨🤠(you can).

It’s primarily used to check your scope’s tracking from a solid level base. That is why I bought one and what I mainly used it for. They hold their value extremely well too. So once you are done you can get most of your money back out of it on the used market.
I guess the SAC base would work but its kind of light, no?

Now this fucker won't move as you do your scope tracking test....but wow, they have gotten pricey ($400 complete). 28 lbs. My local buddy has one and we all borrow it as needed as its not something you do every day. Works a charm.

s136291704728945564_p74_i5_w2560.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: mtrmn