Re: Latest. . .
The entire action is bedded. To include the tang. It's bedded no different than any other rifle we build. What your seeing is a feature I recently began to include when building on A5 stocks.
The tang geometry on a M700 and the slope on the stock don't match one another at all. Not even close. To blend the two as we normally would requires a great deal of invasive work on the outer shell of the stock. Something I'm not in any hurry to do.
So, the solution I came up with is to surface machine the scallop after bedding it. It leaves a novel looking pad of hard resin for the rear end of the receiver to register to. So far, the A5 and stocks like it are the only ones we have to do this to. The more conventional stocks get the 1:1 blend treatment.
As for secondary recoil lugs. Keith your right. It can create an issue. There is a very simple solution that I use to solve this though. After the rifle is essentially finished, I buzz .005-.01 off the back of the action. -Thus generating the needed clearance. It's far easier and cleaner than trying to mask that off.
-Now that I've said this also know this: Every Dakota Arms product offered has a zero clearance fit between receiver and the stock. There's no clearance anywhere.
They shoot just fine. Take it for what its worth.
Just like with SS M700's there's that stupid groove at the back of the receiver tang. To fix that I sweat the groove with silver solder, file to flush, sand to blend, and then bed the gun. I don't know what Remington was thinking when they did this. Aggravates the snot out of me though.
I don't have to tape lugs anymore either. Instead I spent a day making oversized lugs of various shapes/sizes/thickness and we bed the gun with these. Once bedded, its just a matter of replacing the "bedding lug" with the conventional one. Saves us a great deal of time and the results are much, much cleaner in appearance with zero loss in performance.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Paint wont hold up like molded into gelcoat colors. You can sand on gelcoat for a little bit, wipe it clean and the color is still there. I look at it like prettiness vs strength/longevity. </div></div>
-Yet its ok for chunks of gel coat to fall off the gun due to inclusions under the surface?
Painted properly with good materials (not rattle cans) painted stocks last just fine. I get guns in here for new barrels that I built over 10 years ago and the paint is just as nice as when it left.
C.
