I know everyone has a pet method of keeping track of how many times their brass has been fired. I'm not too fond of my "pet" however, and am looking for better ideas. Would you be so kind as to share your methods if you have one you find easy/simple/reliable? Thanks!
- Thread starter vh20
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I keep my loads in typical ammo containers and keep a piece of masking tape on the inside that I put a hash mark on after I load all the rounds in that particular container (usually 50 rounds). Spent brass always goes back into the same container it came out of...
Sometimes it's difficult to do, but I will only reload when that particular container is empty so I can keep them consistent and ensure that my hash marks indicate all the rounds have been reloaded "X" amount of times in this particular container. Having multiple containers that I progress through keeps me always having ammo.
Sometimes it's difficult to do, but I will only reload when that particular container is empty so I can keep them consistent and ensure that my hash marks indicate all the rounds have been reloaded "X" amount of times in this particular container. Having multiple containers that I progress through keeps me always having ammo.
Easy. Get two plastic trays, and label them 1x and 2x fired (just as an example). Always load from the 1x fired tray, and toss your empties into the 2x tray when you get home from the range. Repeat until all of the 1x's are gone, then repeat, but with 2x and 3x.
I have to do this with seven calibers, and I sort by headstamp on top of that...
I have to do this with seven calibers, and I sort by headstamp on top of that...
M
milo 2.0
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I use sticky notes, in ziploc baggies. Different colored ammo boxes marked also. I still manage to mix brass!
Paying close attention would be the key here.
Paying close attention would be the key here.
This is what I like to do. Get a large amount of once fired brass all of the same headstamp. Give it a full prep and put a mark either on the side of the case or on the head with a brown or red permanent marker. I don't know why but brown and red seem to withstand tumbler abuse better. Once I have all of them prepped and marked I put them in one large container and label it. Then I load up as many as I need at that time. Once I shoot those I come home and put another mark on them and put them in a container marked "spent brass". I then load up more from my large container of once fired brass that I have already prepped. I repeat this process until I have no more once fired brass. Then give your twice fired cases from your "spent brass" container a full prep and now label your container twice fired. Repeat process until your brass no longer has life left in it and chunk it. Get more once fired brass.
If you are using more than one headstamp then you will have to get more containers. If you are using more than one rifle I recommend that you give each rifle its own set of containers and maybe even use different colors to mark the brass. It's easier and takes up less space if you keep things simple and only have once and twice fired, twice and three times fired, three and four times fired, etc.
I started by working up loads by reloading the same 30-40 cases and I had numerous small containers on my table varying from 1-5 times fired to twice fired/need trim to once fired/need primers, etc. It's much easier to get 500 cases of one headstamp and run all the way through it, prep it, run through it, prep it, etc.
If you are using more than one headstamp then you will have to get more containers. If you are using more than one rifle I recommend that you give each rifle its own set of containers and maybe even use different colors to mark the brass. It's easier and takes up less space if you keep things simple and only have once and twice fired, twice and three times fired, three and four times fired, etc.
I started by working up loads by reloading the same 30-40 cases and I had numerous small containers on my table varying from 1-5 times fired to twice fired/need trim to once fired/need primers, etc. It's much easier to get 500 cases of one headstamp and run all the way through it, prep it, run through it, prep it, etc.
Swiss file a small notch in the rim/rimless base. Never wears off after tumbling. Your going to toss the brass later on either way.
This is exactly what I do.
zip lock bags and I write on them with black magic marker..... and then I use non-chlorinated break cleaner (that I use to clean dies with) on a rag to erase the marker to re-use the zip lock bag... fast, easy, and most important = cheap!
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I have an unlimited number of large Folgers coffee cans at work that pile up from the coffee mess. I take them and put my brass in them with a piece of masking tape on the lid with a number for every firing. If I trim I put a "T" between the number and the next. When annealed I use an "A". Smaller batches of brass I use a smaller container.
Example: For one of my 308's I have a 500 round lot of brass I'm going through. I keep 2 Folgers cans, one for ready to load brass and one to pit dirty fired cases in when I come back from the range. One can right now shows 5 firings and the masking tape reads "1 2 T 3 4 A 5" these are clean and primed, ready to load. So they were all trimmed after 2 firings, and annelaed after 4th firing. The other can I dump empties in when I get home has a tape that reads "1 2 T 3 4 A 5 6". When I run theough all my brass I'll make bith counting tags match and clean and size the whole lot, put them in one can and mark the other with a "7" or whatever else is appropriate if I trim and it is the fired bucket again.
This could work with cheap disposable Tupperware of whatever fits your bill. I like the Folgers cans because they're free and stack easily.
Example: For one of my 308's I have a 500 round lot of brass I'm going through. I keep 2 Folgers cans, one for ready to load brass and one to pit dirty fired cases in when I come back from the range. One can right now shows 5 firings and the masking tape reads "1 2 T 3 4 A 5" these are clean and primed, ready to load. So they were all trimmed after 2 firings, and annelaed after 4th firing. The other can I dump empties in when I get home has a tape that reads "1 2 T 3 4 A 5 6". When I run theough all my brass I'll make bith counting tags match and clean and size the whole lot, put them in one can and mark the other with a "7" or whatever else is appropriate if I trim and it is the fired bucket again.
This could work with cheap disposable Tupperware of whatever fits your bill. I like the Folgers cans because they're free and stack easily.
and i'll even use this method with finished ammo product (if I run out of ammo boxes) with an index card right inside the bag with the ammo (sorry for the crappy pics, bad lighting).
here you go!
THIS ^^^ except I use stackable Rubbermaid see thru containers with locking lids, and labels showing "1x" "2x" etc
Plastic coffee conatiners with name, caliber and number of firings. When the entire lot has been shot through, wipe of the firing number with alcohol, go to the next number, ie.. firings 5 to 6 to 7. I anneal every three firings. Process and load the entire lot everytime. As things wear out separate them and move on. Generally start new with 200 cases per caliber.
I have also used this technique along with baby formula containers. Works great. Put spent brass in the formula container and when it's ready keep it in the coffee containers.
Damn, seeing all the brass setups gives me the urge to reload more!
I do the same baggie technique as others and since I usually don't full resize I make sure to mark the rifle they came out of on there. I also put a mark on the case rim with a marker for each reloading. After 5 reloads I put it into the "for use in the future when I learn to anneal" area.
I do the same baggie technique as others and since I usually don't full resize I make sure to mark the rifle they came out of on there. I also put a mark on the case rim with a marker for each reloading. After 5 reloads I put it into the "for use in the future when I learn to anneal" area.
If you look at the outer label you'll see numbers in a circle that repeat with an "A" braking them into sets. The A is for annealing.
I'm slapping myself for never thinking of this, one of the best ways IMO I've seen to label/keep track
I eat a ton of Natural Peanut Butter. I use the empty pb containers and seperate 50 piece lots. I use a piece of tape on the top and mark them by lots. Lot 1, 2, 3 and so on. I keep track on the tape as well as a notebook where I can just reference the lot if I have any notes or data to jot down. Once loaded they go into 50 round plastic ammo boxes labeled in whichever lot it is. 50 pieces of brass fit well in small or large pb jars depending on caliber.
I don't.
My case sizing technique involves an actual test that relates to bullet retention/neck tension, which is at the heart of the reason behind tracking brass firings; so counting firings actually becomes an unnecessary complication.
Typically, my brass only gets retired for reasons related to primer pocket expansion.
Greg
My case sizing technique involves an actual test that relates to bullet retention/neck tension, which is at the heart of the reason behind tracking brass firings; so counting firings actually becomes an unnecessary complication.
Typically, my brass only gets retired for reasons related to primer pocket expansion.
Greg
I use a plastic bin setup similar to Elfster but mine is smaller trays. I have put them together in sets of 5 drawers. When I load the rounds go into a plastic ammo box with a load label that includes number of times fired. Drawer 1 is once fired, drawer 2 is twice fired, and so on. When I come back from shooting the empty brass goes into the appropriate drawer.
I try to keep track but never do i usually load in 200rnd batches for my AR and 50rnd batches for my boltgun (critter killin) so when i start seeing pockets goin to hell i toss the batch and start another. If i get split necks i toss the individual pieces. I think with my AR in 25-223 i started getting bad pockets at 8 loadings with FC nato 5.56 brass.
I only bump the shoulder .003" when sizing trim every time and after 3 firings i check the interiors w/ a paper clip.
I only bump the shoulder .003" when sizing trim every time and after 3 firings i check the interiors w/ a paper clip.
No, it's sorted. Once I initialize/prep a batch of brass, it's processed, fired, and retained as a discrete 50pc unit until it's retired.
I keep track of mine in my logbook which I made on an excel sheet I keep on my computer. I do all my loading in order. If I am working a load, I will only load what I need out of 100 and the rest stay clean and prepped in the same plastic container with the loaded rounds. When I get to all of the cases fired again I do all the prep on all 100 and start over, noting the firing number for the new prepped brass every time in my logbook.
Documentation makes me too anal. I feel that that sort of regimentation has a tendency to urge me toward doing things for the sake of doing them; for appearance sake, rather than actual need.
I use plastic bags for loaded ammo/fired cases, with Stick-Up notes inside listing the load spec and notes like "charge increase .2gr", intended rifle, etc.. A lot of my ammo is slotted onto stripper/enbloc clips inside the bags (even when the firearm does not use the clips), to keep them neat, compact, and to permit quick indications of quantities.
Records about discontinued loads, etc., have minimal value to me. Stick-Ups with good loads get stapled to the Plywood wall behind the load bench.
Each batch of brass tends to test functionally identical within the group regarding neck tension as it runs down through the cycles, and after testing a few and adjusting the die to get the right tension, I'm pretty much done with testing for that loading cycle.
Greg
I use plastic bags for loaded ammo/fired cases, with Stick-Up notes inside listing the load spec and notes like "charge increase .2gr", intended rifle, etc.. A lot of my ammo is slotted onto stripper/enbloc clips inside the bags (even when the firearm does not use the clips), to keep them neat, compact, and to permit quick indications of quantities.
Records about discontinued loads, etc., have minimal value to me. Stick-Ups with good loads get stapled to the Plywood wall behind the load bench.
Each batch of brass tends to test functionally identical within the group regarding neck tension as it runs down through the cycles, and after testing a few and adjusting the die to get the right tension, I'm pretty much done with testing for that loading cycle.
Greg
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So you go by finger pressure as you seat a bullet Greg?
I have checked seating pressure with a scale, but I don't want to go down the rabbit hole so far these days.
Switching to STM media made me run a bit less tension, but other than that I never adjust the neck tension on the same lot of brass.
I do anneal after every firing.
I'm curious as to your take on things?
Good guess, but I never really trusted that sort of approach, and annealing is another of those 'complications' I'd rather avoid if possible.
My resizing method involves backing off the F/L die so only a portion of the end of the neck gets resized. When one backs it off too much, it becomes possible to turn the seated bullet in the neck using thumb and forefinger only. That's my test, and the 'proper' adjustment is to reverse the process and start bringing the die back down until it become impossible to turn the bullet so. This resets the neck tension to keep up with brass neck work hardening. For better or worse, it provides some correlation with the real world, and may even help overall cartridge concentricity in the chamber because the expanded/unresized rear portion of the neck centers the case in the chamber more positively.
It's unorthodox, but it's not new. My Eldest Brother taught me this. He used to shoot BR back in the days when the Deuce ruled, and F/L dies were all there was. This was the way BR shooters tried to manage neck tension back then.
Greg
My resizing method involves backing off the F/L die so only a portion of the end of the neck gets resized. When one backs it off too much, it becomes possible to turn the seated bullet in the neck using thumb and forefinger only. That's my test, and the 'proper' adjustment is to reverse the process and start bringing the die back down until it become impossible to turn the bullet so. This resets the neck tension to keep up with brass neck work hardening. For better or worse, it provides some correlation with the real world, and may even help overall cartridge concentricity in the chamber because the expanded/unresized rear portion of the neck centers the case in the chamber more positively.
It's unorthodox, but it's not new. My Eldest Brother taught me this. He used to shoot BR back in the days when the Deuce ruled, and F/L dies were all there was. This was the way BR shooters tried to manage neck tension back then.
Greg
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Greg...love it!
I just use the stickers that come with the mtm plastic cases that have numbers 1 thru 10 on the bottom. Just cut the numbers off and it looks like diver160651 method. You can get extra stickers from midway for dirt cheap or just make them yourself with a label maker thats 15 to 20 bucks.
I tape a 3"x5" card to the inside of the lid of my ammo boxes with the details of my hand load. At the bottom of the card I write "1x 2x 3x 4x 5A 6x 7x ....", marking the number of total times fired "X" and adding an "A" after the total times fired that the brass was also annealed. When I finish shooting all of the rounds in the box and am ready to reload them, I mark the bottom with the next "X" or "A".
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