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Rifle Stock Texturing Tutorial

hayden033

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 16, 2011
454
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Dallas TX
I've had a few request for a guide on stock texturing that I have done on a couple rifles. My preference is to have something fairly heavy, similar to the texturing done on Tac Ops rifles. You can always spend more time sanding or on the texturing to get the exact look you are going for Lots of pictures, I'll give some text along with them, but it is all fairly straightforward and relatively easy to do. Please feel free to PM or post any questions.

Here to start, just tape off any area where you want the texture pattern to be. I use a standard blue painter's tape and it has worked well. I use gray marine tex, shown here

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Mix gray marine tex according to instructions, and apply. I use a tongue depressor, it seems to work very well. It only takes a thin coat, but make sure that is is completely covered. Here is a picture of my first coat, which was a little heavy on the left side.

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You will be able to see if it is the right thickness once you start to pull it up for the texture. The first picture here is showing what it may look like when it is too thick. I then just scraped some off and then brought the texture back up.

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To bring up the texture, I use the same tongue depressor I applied with. You want to make a quick slapping motion down onto the texture, and retract it quickly. If you are not getting the smaller peaks try removing a little of the marine tex and then bringing the texture back up. it takes a little time to setup, so don't be afraid to spend some time getting it the way you want. Keep in mind you will sand afterwards, which can alter it greatly.

Once you have the texture you desire, you will want to remove the tape while the compound is still wet.

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If there are any areas where it went outside the tape, I use a sheetrock blade and scrape it off to make a clean line, shown below. You may be a little more meticulous than I am.

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Clean up any edges you would like to, then wait for it to completely harden, then you will be able to sand and paint, shown later.
 
Here's a little more on the sanding and finishing up with painting.

For sanding, I just use 80 grit sandpaper and just knock off most of the major peaks and anything that will be jagged on my hand. Although it looks fairly rough, it is really very easy on your hand.

Here is the grip area and forearm that have been sanded and taped off again for painting.

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I clean with denatured alcohol and used tactical flat black duracoat and did a couple coats.

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Here's a couple extra pictures of one I had done previously

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Again, feel free to ask any questions or give me some feedback. Thanks for looking
 
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Looks good. I think I'm going to give this a try on my Manners stock. I would think that Devcon plastic steel putty should work just as well as the marine tex.

Thanks for the tutorial.
 
Thanks for the tutorial. I have been wanting to do this to a Manners stock I got last year. Now we just need to get this to be a sticky so I can find it again later.
 
Looks good. I think I'm going to give this a try on my Manners stock. I would think that Devcon plastic steel putty should work just as well as the marine tex.

Thanks for the tutorial.

I have only used the marine tex; maybe someone who has worked with both could comment. Before I did the first one myself I searched around and remember seeing some compounds wouldn't hold a peak and would flatten out.
 
Devon was a lot harder to work with and make the texture that was needed evenly, marine tex is the way to go!!! Hayden033 what was the cure time?
 
Cure time probably varies depending on how much catalyst is used. I would guess it was a 2-3 hours before I could start sanding on it.
 
Hayden033 thanks!!! Has all your stocks you have applied this texture to held up well to abuse?

The texture is pretty tough. I haven't noticed anywhere where it has chipped or rubbed off. I definitely wouldn't wanna have to remove it.
 
Great tutorial. I have had good luck using Devcon and bringing up the peaks with a surgical glove. The hight of the peaks depends a lot on the cure time and when in the curing process you texture it.
 
I have used Devcon and Steel bed. I think the thicker Devcon is easier to work with than MT. Did mine in colder weather and it took a good hour before the Devcon would stand up the way I wanted. After that took the tape off and let it sit overnite before sanding and paint
 
I used Devcon 10110 to do mine and a piece of foam from a box of Berger bullets to pull the peaks. The Devcon was a breeze to work with.
 
For the guys using devcon do you have any pictures? Marine tex is all I have tried and it seems easy enough, but always open to learning new methods. Feel free to post pics or any additional tips you guys might have.
 
Here's a few pics of Devcon. I used the scrubber above for texture.
You have to hit it with sand paper to remove the peaks.
They will cut you up if you don't.

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That looks great man I like the finer texture like that. I know what you mean about sanding it down that can tear your hands up without it. I haven't gotten brave enough to try my hand at the airbrush painting. Did you do that yourself?
 
Hayden033 I have a DTA srs you think that marine tex would work on it?

I am not sure about that, it would probably just be a matter of getting a good surface for the MT to adhere to. I thought I remember seeing someone say that an AICS was too oily but the DTA might be different. Anyone else know?
 
Rowdyryno, I use 3M tread tape for stairwells, it sticks really well and easy to cut for where you want to place it and it is tough as nails. If it is wet from rain or sweat it grips very well. I wish AICS came with the texturing but I can understand why they do not.
 
I have been texturing stocks for a while and wrote up a thread in the DIY section. I have always found that after letting my Marine Tex set up for an hour, I wet my finger and gently rub it across the texture to smooth it out a little. Looks good!!

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/snipers-hide-d-i-y/185934-stock-texturing.html

Thanks for the tip and the link. I have noticed mine come out pretty heavy. Glad to know you can get it a little smoother without having to sand it down once it's dried. It's tough stuff to sand
 
Thanks for the tip and the link. I have noticed mine come out pretty heavy. Glad to know you can get it a little smoother without having to sand it down once it's dried. It's tough stuff to sand

I know that stuff is like sanding steel sometimes. Everybody likes things differently. I like smooth with just enough grab but not ruff. Same thing when it comes to stippling a polymer gun. Some like it but I don't. I just ordered another Manners T5A, so its time to it all over again. :)