Got the barrel vice, rosin, sledge hammer, action wrench, son on his way to home depot to get a burns omatic torch. Amy advice, gun is pretty new just switching barrel over to a 260 rem.
Gunsmithing Removing a 700 barrel, what a biotch
- Thread starter ArmyJerry
- Start date
The action wrenches that clamp on the front ring will crush the action a bit and actually work against you if you overtighten them.
When the action is hot enough to boil a bit of spit, it should pop loose. I have a fancy thermometer gun I never use, LOL.
I normally use a 2lb hammer. A sharp crack seems to work better than a massive, heavy blow.
When the action is hot enough to boil a bit of spit, it should pop loose. I have a fancy thermometer gun I never use, LOL.
I normally use a 2lb hammer. A sharp crack seems to work better than a massive, heavy blow.
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Do you need to save the barrel? If the answer is no just cut e relief grove forward of the recoil lug
So it has to get pretty hot huh, I heated it but not that hot, should I move the action wrench back away from where it is threaded?
A piece of pipe slipped over the action wrench to work as a cheater bar has always got mine to budge.
No, you're better of with the action wrench as far forward as it will go.
Heat the action, then install the wrench. You need to move quickly. You'll get a feel for after you've done it a few times.
In reality, hot enough to boil a drop of fluid really isn't that hot, as far as steel is concerned anyways.
Heat the action, then install the wrench. You need to move quickly. You'll get a feel for after you've done it a few times.
In reality, hot enough to boil a drop of fluid really isn't that hot, as far as steel is concerned anyways.
Yeah, am a former welder, I know that just concerned with the pressure on the receiver with the wrench, I will tale another whack at it in the morning. So no hammer?
I use a small hammer to give a sharp strike to the handle of the wrench. A slow, heavy hit form a big hammer always spins the barrel in my vise. A quick strike shocks them loose better for me.
I'm currently a welder.
By all means, feel free to listen to some of these other guys if you like. We all have different ways of doing things.
I'm currently a welder.
By all means, feel free to listen to some of these other guys if you like. We all have different ways of doing things.
MHH thanks for the info, makes sense. Read on another forum to heat the barrel not the action with propane 15 minutes, I figured heating the barrel would make it expand and get tighter, will try that too.
Remington uses some something sorta like loc-tight in way. I get the barrel mounted in the vise and use a wrap around action wrench. Heat the barrel by the lug with a propane torch. What you want to do is soften the stuff they put on the threads. I will normally work my way around the action for about 3-4 mins. I take a hammer and give the action wrench a good wack and they will break loose. Then you can spin the wrench by hand.
-What human said about tightening the action wrench enough that it will crush/distort the action where it will squeeze it tighter on the barrel is true.
Kc
-What human said about tightening the action wrench enough that it will crush/distort the action where it will squeeze it tighter on the barrel is true.
Kc
Just removed a factory Rem. 700 bbl that has been on since 1971 or so. I heated the receiver ring with a propane torch for about 2 minutes while it was in the vise, ready to go..., and when there was smoke just starting to wisp up, you know the Loctite has melted. It came right off with a good snap. I have a home-made through the action wrench, that I welded a 42" T-bar onto for leverage. (the wrench is in the middle)...Works great.
Well I tried everything suggested, did not work, I will puss out and find a local smith to break it open.
I soaked a remington barrel action in some PB Blaster for a couple of days and it came right off. I took a length of PVC pipe that was large enough on diameter for the reciever (minus the trigger) and long enough to cover the reciever up past the barrel joint and then glued a PVC cap on the bottom of one end. I filled it with enough PB Blaster to cover the reciever and barrel joint and just let it soak for a couple of days. Then I used my action wrench and barrel vise and it come right off. The only problem I had was that the PB Blaster removed some of the bluing. By the way, before I used the PB Blaster, this was the most difficult barrel removal I had encountered.
I use a little different approach. I have a magnetic induction heating tool that I put around the barrel. I can heat it from the inside out basically and they break right loose with a standard wheeler action wrench and my vice with aluminum jaws. Mini-Ductor™ Products
Im in Oregon 
STR is around that area, He may be an option. If you cant find anyone to take the barrel off, I would be glad to help you, just cover shipping.
Kc
STR is around that area, He may be an option. If you cant find anyone to take the barrel off, I would be glad to help you, just cover shipping.Kc
Found a smith, he took it off in ten mins with a hydraulic press. Putting new barrel on tonight, will shoot it this week end then off to ceracote locally for $150. Pics after dinner. Thanks for the help gents
Are you just screwing a take off barrel onto your receiver or are you going to head spaced it once screwed on?
A friend of mine had the same issues. So another buddy made a very very large action vice, a large pipe wrench, and a cheater bar. It came off but not before turning the factory sporter into grated cheese. Now you won't ever have to worry about all that torque again with the CBI and barret nut.FWIW I have a CBI 260AI match on my Savage and it is a match winner. It should serve you well. I may be wrong here but you should be able to easily lap your lugs now since the headspace will easily adjusted.
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