Belted magnum's - best sizing dies, experiences?

[badaboom]

Just curious of experiences with resizing brass for belted magnum's.
Was checking the Innovative Technologies Belted Magnum Collet Resizing Die and wondering
if anyone here has used this die? Or Just general experiences with case bulge problems....
Trying to insure a smooth transaction in the receiver and chamber every time.

THX

 

[Longshot38]

The Larry Willis die is a good die that works as advertised. But it is not something that needs to be utilized every loading. Rather it is a tool that is best used every three or four firings.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

Just curious of experiences with resizing brass for belted magnum's.
Was checking the Innovative Technologies Belted Magnum Collet Resizing Die and wondering
if anyone here has used this die? Or Just general experiences with case bulge problems....
Trying to insure a smooth transaction in the receiver and chamber every time.

THX

I need to use that die with .300 H&H during each reload. FL size first then use the collet die. I don't know about other belted mags because they are quite different. The .300 H&H needs the belt more than the others.

 

[Paddywagon]

I was wondering the same being I was about to spend the money and buy one. Just out of curiosity, why is it only needed every 3 or 4 reloads vs every time?

 

[buffybuster]

I was wondering the same being I was about to spend the money and buy one. Just out of curiosity, why is it only needed every 3 or 4 reloads vs every time?

Since belted magnum headspace by SAMMI is set by the belt, the exact shoulder dimensions have some variance from manufacturer to manufacturer, tending towards the generous side. The shoulder is blown out during firing then during FL resizing the die being generally made toward the minimum tolerance excessive resizes back the shoulder. Most reloaders setup their resizing die to minimally bump back the shoulder, so the case is a better fit to the chamber, using the shoulder to set headspace like other rimless cartridges. However that leaves an area above the belt that is not touched by the resizing die. Eventually that area will expand and result in hard chambering or a stuck case. Larry Willis collet is suppose to resize that area of the case. Since that is the thicker part of the case, it usually takes a few firings to blow out that part, unless you are really pushing the pressure.

If you intend on setting up the FL die to size to the minimum dimension then the Willis collet is of no use, however the brass will not last many firings, due to excessive working.

 

[Longshot38]

I was wondering the same being I was about to spend the money and buy one. Just out of curiosity, why is it only needed every 3 or 4 reloads vs every time?

This is somewhat dependent upon how one loads. But for the most part the case will not bulge enough in one firing for the die to necessary. You have to understand that the die is a collet die that is designed to fix a single issue. It is not a FL resizing die and does nothing with the shoulder.

 

[300DMMAG]

The best experience I had with a sizing die was Hornady's Custom die. They start by measuring 3-4 fired cases out of your chamber etc. The best money I spent for sizing issues on the 300WM.

 

[Paddywagon]

I am using the Hornady dies myself. I am new to reloading belted cartridges as I have reloaded straight and bottle necked cartridges for a good many years. I like most of us am just looking for the most consistent reloads possible. The belted ones make for a little different animal than I am used to. This is being loaded for a trg42 and would certainly like to have the ammo to have the ability to shoot with the rifle.

 

[shoot4fun]

Larry's die is worth the $$ IMHO. I use it every other reload but that is just what I decided to do.

 

[Deleted member 10043]

I was wondering the same being I was about to spend the money and buy one. Just out of curiosity, why is it only needed every 3 or 4 reloads vs every time?

There is some misinformation out there about the belt in general. The web part of the case (just above the belt) will bulge and not chamber when loading or will be difficult to load. The collet die eliminates this bulge. The only belted mag that actually need the belt are the Holland & Holland .375 and .300. Because these are the first mags all subsequent mags have the belt as well. But, these subsequent mags really don't need the belt. It is just there to signify it is a magnum cartridge. These later magnums have the appropriate shoulder angle that they don't really need the belt for reliable head spacing. You get several opinions on the collet die because most people don't shoot and reload the H&H mags. They shoot the later mags that rely on the shoulder for head spacing. Opinions very from I never heard of it, I use it every 3rd or 4th reload, to I bought the thing and never had to use it.

In the end, I didn't purchase the collet die until I determined I need it. You will know you need it when head spacing off the shoulder isn't doing the job or measuring the web and finding it is way out of spec. My holy grail was a broken bolt extractor. See post #6.

 

[steve123]

Larry's die is worth the $$ IMHO. I use it every other reload but that is just what I decided to do.

For reference to the OP.

I bought a Forster shoulder bump/neck size die to use with my then new custom 7mmRM. Since I had no FL die I ended up using the Larry die every time otherwise there were a few cases out of fifty that would be tight. I never ended up buying a FL die to try because the rifle shot so well.

I highly recommend that L die.

 

[nuclear_shooter]

I reload 300 win mag, and I don't see the need for this die. I use a FL sizer and it sizes to about 2mm above my belt. The safest course of action would be to start reloading and see if you need it.

 

[Paddywagon]

I guess I'll just see how it goes. I have always fire formed my brass and neck sized for all my bolt guns in the past. This will be just a bit of learning curve on it!

 

[badaboom]

Thanks for all the replies.......The reason I asked is I have been finding that some or more than I desire FL sized handloads for the 7MMrm have been stiff / draggy when chambering..
If headspace is out of tolerance will the round just not chamber? Or would it be bottom bulge?
Trying to figure out best approach to insure each round will smoothly chamber.