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Switching to Froglube

Horhey232

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 12, 2013
45
0
California
So I am switching over to Froglube and I need to strip all the previous gunk on the firearm. I used to use Breakfree CLP so some of that residue might be left on the firearm. I am looking for some kind of solvent that does not leave any kind of film on the firearm so it is bare metal so I can properly apply Froglube to the firearm. My buddy recommended using rubbing alcohol and it seems like that would work because it would cut the grease but I wanted to see what you guys had to say before I did anything. I heard M Pro7 doesn't leave anything either but they do not state it anywhere on there FAQ page.
 
Frog Lube has a solvent that works good. But you can also just start running frog lube as it will break down any of the petroleum based products you have used before.
 
The cleaner that frog lube has works great, but it smells like an old gym sock that got wet and left in a basement for a few months.
 
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CRC Brak-Kleen would also work. Use the stuff in the red can! Quick and easy!!!
 
I just switched over my SBR to it but I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. It looks and feels promising. I used Birchwood-Casey Gun Scrub from wally world to strip off the old CLP I was using before I applied the froglube.
 
I've been using froglube for over a year now and while I really like its lack of nasty fumes and it's anti rust properties I have never been impressed with its lubrication properties.
 
I use KG-3 or any type of brake cleaner before applying Froglube. Strips everything off and no residue left behind.
 
Just saw someone using Simple Green. Any suggestions?

Simple Green is what I used.

I've used the lube for my pistol only (as a test) and it has performed well so far. Once the winter is done I'll make a decision whether to put it on all my guns or not

Another post tracked by the government.
 
I was a Frog lube user until FireClean came out. Simply put, if you think FL works good, FireClean works 100 times better, plus it is also a fantastic lubricant. No odor, bio safe and carbon wipes off with a paper towel.

3000 rounds suppressed [video]http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=LFAZlc0qdGc&feature=youtu.be&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DLFAZlc0qdGc%26feature%3 Dyoutu.be[/video]
 
I used dawn dish soap and a old toothbrush to degrease my completely stripped g17 then a air nozzle to blow it out any water
 
CRC Brak-Kleen would also work. Use the stuff in the red can! Quick and easy!!!

Yep -any sort of brake cleaner from the local auto parts store will work just fine to remove petroleum-based lubricants, and it's pretty dang cheap ($3-4/can).

As a side note, I would not recommend "regular" Simple Green (or any other aqueous alkaline cleaning solution) on firearms, as it can cause corrosion on unprotected aluminum surfaces (anodized aluminum should not be affected much by it). There is an aircraft-specific Simple Green that is supposed to be aluminum-safe, but I just stick to petroleum solvents.
 
So I'm going to say it, Frog Lube vs Fire Clean. I went to the website seems like it's the same.

Another post tracked by the government.
 
So I'm going to say it, Frog Lube vs Fire Clean. I went to the website seems like it's the same.

Another post tracked by the government.

Having used both extensively, I can say that they are not. Fireclean is not only a cleaner it is an incredible lubricant/protectant as well and it is not affected by extreme hot/cold temps. Froglube is not a very good lubricant, as noted by another above, and it has a tendency to congeal in cold weather. It is also not a very good long term corrosion protectant. I would rank FireClean as #1 and Froglube as #2 among all the gun products out there currently.
 
I also used Frog Lube for over a year. I liked it because of the smell and it's safe around my son and dog. FL is a better lube than CLP but Fire Clean blows it out of the water. I just started using Fire Clean and it has very high viscosity, about the same as honey. So you're not using very much of it. Even just cycling actions by hand, you can feel how much more smooth it is compared to FL. And yes, clean up is a lot easier.
 
Used Frog lube for a bit before I switched to Fire Clean. Both are great and I do like coating misc metals in Frog lube.
 
FUCK ME SIDEWAYS

I just had a revelation. A Real epiphany. I should have went into advertising and made a killing marketing shit to the masses (can't argue this) of idiots and ignoramouses out there.

The same mouthbreathers who would buy $100 Monster Cables or $30 tubes of lube.

FUCK YEA, WE CAN NOW EAT OUR LUBE. Despite the fact that all the carbon, lead and other shit is mixed in there with your bio friendly and apparantley tastey lube of choice (Sorry Adam&eve.com, not you), people will still stand in line to throw their money down an endless abyss. It's not like most dino and synthetic oils have proven over the years to be more than adaquate while having the best volume/price of pretty much any lube out there. It's not like MOST of the products on the market are junk and will harm your weapons more than protect them (Yes, fuck you Miltech).

Is it really THAT hard to clean your weapons? I don't know, Maybe I'm just a poor, ignorant, solider and hobbiest who doesn't know any better. It's amazing, that outside of some complex weapon systems (IE, Not shit you own) and corrosive ammo, just about every weapon is fairly easy to clean. The ones that aren't and have difficult spots to reach with tools, some wonder lube of the week will not make a difference.

While I just about never disagree with PTZ, and I'm not really disagreeing with him, just a difference of philosophies.... I cannot fathom spending $30 on a small tub of lube, when I can Get 5 gallons of Mobil 1 syth for less. I have yet, in my years in the Mil, working for the gov, and as a enthusiest, have found it to be lacking as a Lube. I could care less about cleaning unless it effects reliability and accuracy. Then again the same people in this thread (mostly) must spend more time cleaning and worrying about pretting up their guns than actually using them. I
 
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The difference is that FireClean really is a CLP in all aspects of the acronym, where simple olive oil to motor oil and all the other gun products out there either do none or only one of the 3 decent. For me, being able to have an AR's chamber white glove IG clean in 5 mins of wiping everything down is justification for the price and ease of cleaning compared to hours of scraping with dental tools and q tips and soaking in parts bins. Time is money and if I can accomplish a cleaning in 5 mins as opposed to 1-2 hours, then I am all for it. I am a believer in the saying "work smart, not hard".
 
PTZ,

Quick question about the L part of the acronym.

How well does it do as a Lube. How does it hold up to Heavy firing schedules/ Full Auto? Any chance to run it on 240's/249'/ Mk46s/MK48/MK17/MK18's ect. I keep M1S in spray bottles and they stay in my range bag, along with a few oilers to hit hard to reach spots I dont want drenched in lube. How do u apply FC on the firing line? How easy is it to relube durring a shoot/range/mission, and what kind of logetiviy are you getting out of it. How is the viscocity at lower temps?

My guns stay pretty dirty, They may get a detailed , strip down cleaning every year or two, but they run dirty and wet, and I dont have any issues. In fact, Im going to see how long this Scar17 and SR-15 go before I start to see malfunctions..... I have a hunch... its going to take a while and cost a shit load in ammo to get there.
 
Wait... you mean lube is for running the rifle and not to look pretty all shiny in the safe?? Dammit I've been doin it wrong...


;)
 
PTZ,

Quick question about the L part of the acronym.

How well does it do as a Lube. How does it hold up to Heavy firing schedules/ Full Auto? Any chance to run it on 240's/249'/ Mk46s/MK48/MK17/MK18's ect. I keep M1S in spray bottles and they stay in my range bag, along with a few oilers to hit hard to reach spots I dont want drenched in lube. How do u apply FC on the firing line? How easy is it to relube durring a shoot/range/mission, and what kind of logetiviy are you getting out of it. How is the viscocity at lower temps?

My guns stay pretty dirty, They may get a detailed , strip down cleaning every year or two, but they run dirty and wet, and I dont have any issues. In fact, Im going to see how long this Scar17 and SR-15 go before I start to see malfunctions..... I have a hunch... its going to take a while and cost a shit load in ammo to get there.



It holds up like a champ on full autos, crew served, suppressed, even on the COMBLOC weapons using their ammo. It is incredibly smooth as a lubricant.

As far as putting it on, a few drops and spread it around, it is very viscous and a little can go a long way. On the line, just add a few drops and finger it on and your GTG. You don't have to drench the gun, just apply a light coat. Also, don't use any other products once you have FireClean on the gun as the FireClean acts like a teflon coating of sorts.

They ran it out at range 37 in the MP5 SDs for several hundred rounds before cleaning them with zero mals and the carbon still all wiped off and the suppressor came off with just hand pressure( it usually takes a pipe wrench or two guys). Hot and cold temps don't cause it to degrade in its performance. just check out their youTube channel to see how well it does on different platforms. The stuff is just incredible and it really does do what a CLP should do.

M249 after 400 rounds full auto
[video=youtube_share;-y1dBjEucwE]http://youtu.be/-y1dBjEucwE[/video]

10k rounds out of an AR


Bolt gun



SCAR
 
I wish I had these in my safe, Cobracutter.

How well does it do as a Lube. How does it hold up to Heavy firing schedules/ Full Auto? Any chance to run it on 240's/249'/ Mk46s/MK48/MK17/MK18's ect.

I think most guys running these lubes shoot between 50 and 200 rounds at a time and they just want something relatively easy to clean up after. Most guy's have wifey, kids, jobs, and all other kind of commitments and like Papa said the least time cleaning guns the better.

I use Frog Lube and like it alot. Seems to do everything well for me, no nasty smell, lubes great and well rust protection I live in Arizona and have never even seen rust before, lol. I've had the same tub for six months now and it still half full. I don't remember what I paid for it, but even if it was 20 bucks and it lasts me a year and saves me time cleaning then I'm all for it. Maybe when it's gone in six months I will try Fire clean to compare the two.
 
brake cleaner will do the job. I have never tried fire clean before but i think i will try it now, frog lube is the best i have tried so far but i have seen malfunctions with people running it on semi auto 22s if they over lube and it is cold out, and apparently xd's cant handle it either but i never had much faith in them any ways ;) my glock eats it up.
 
We have yet to start carrying FIREClean at work but I will definitely give it a shot when we do start carrying it (will send an email to the higher ups to see if we can start carrying it soon). I went ahead and used Simple Green to strip off the gunk on the first firearm i am treating which is my Kimber TLE/RL II. I have finished the upper yesterday and plan on finishing the lower today. I won't have another range day until I have a little more money for ammo (a good amount is being tied up building an AR for my fiance's Christmas present). I have been heating up the metal and froglube before applying it.
 
Just ordered a Tube from brownells. Going to give it a shot on my 22 pistols and see how it cleans up.
 
It holds up like a champ on full autos, crew served, suppressed, even on the COMBLOC weapons using their ammo. It is incredibly smooth as a lubricant.

As far as putting it on, a few drops and spread it around, it is very viscous and a little can go a long way. On the line, just add a few drops and finger it on and your GTG. You don't have to drench the gun, just apply a light coat. Also, don't use any other products once you have FireClean on the gun as the FireClean acts like a teflon coating of sorts.

They ran it out at range 37 in the MP5 SDs for several hundred rounds before cleaning them with zero mals and the carbon still all wiped off and the suppressor came off with just hand pressure( it usually takes a pipe wrench or two guys). Hot and cold temps don't cause it to degrade in its performance. just check out their youTube channel to see how well it does on different platforms. The stuff is just incredible and it really does do what a CLP should do.



10k rounds out of an AR


want to impress me... lets see them wipe the carbon off the bolt tail....
 
The difference is that FireClean really is a CLP in all aspects of the acronym, where simple olive oil to motor oil and all the other gun products out there either do none or only one of the 3 decent. For me, being able to have an AR's chamber white glove IG clean in 5 mins of wiping everything down is justification for the price and ease of cleaning compared to hours of scraping with dental tools and q tips and soaking in parts bins. Time is money and if I can accomplish a cleaning in 5 mins as opposed to 1-2 hours, then I am all for it. I am a believer in the saying "work smart, not hard".


found your problem right there... WTH would anyone need to clean a gun that much?
 
found your problem right there... WTH would anyone need to clean a gun that much?

Ever been in the military? And if you have, I shouldn't have to explain to you why. That aside, even if it is a POW, why would you let carbon and fouling build up on it that could affect it's ability to perform?
 
Use non chlorinated brake cleaner. It is not as harsh as regular brake cleaner and works just as well. The chlorinated stuff will mess up rubber, paint and some plastics. I tried Froglube and was not impressed with it on my guns. When they got hot from firing that stuff turn to the same consistency as water and went everywhere. My women face had it stain a pair of her favorite jeans. It promptly got stripped out of her carbine because of that and got my ear gnawed on about it too. Also the cold weather performance was a deal breaker for me. I still use it on my knives as a protectant because it is non toxic. Thats my two cents.
 
Shit, a buddy gave me 2 bottles of fireclean and here I am using frog lube. School me on this, if you need to get out copper (I use bore tech eliminator ) do that first... I know that it cleans out carbon as well.... Then use some dry patches to clean up bore tech.... Then swab a few patches of fire clean down the barrel until completely clean and let it be till I shoot next??... ( cleaning out the bore before I shoot ofcourse) Does this sound right??
My usual routine... Bore tech carbon .... Bore tech dleminator... Frog lube in the bore as a protectant....

Fire clean is that much better??
 
FUCK ME SIDEWAYS

I just had a revelation. A Real epiphany. I should have went into advertising and made a killing marketing shit to the masses (can't argue this) of idiots and ignoramouses out there.

The same mouthbreathers who would buy $100 Monster Cables or $30 tubes of lube.

FUCK YEA, WE CAN NOW EAT OUR LUBE. Despite the fact that all the carbon, lead and other shit is mixed in there with your bio friendly and apparantley tastey lube of choice (Sorry Adam&eve.com, not you), people will still stand in line to throw their money down an endless abyss. It's not like most dino and synthetic oils have proven over the years to be more than adaquate while having the best volume/price of pretty much any lube out there. It's not like MOST of the products on the market are junk and will harm your weapons more than protect them (Yes, fuck you Miltech).

Is it really THAT hard to clean your weapons? I don't know, Maybe I'm just a poor, ignorant, solider and hobbiest who doesn't know any better. It's amazing, that outside of some complex weapon systems (IE, Not shit you own) and corrosive ammo, just about every weapon is fairly easy to clean. The ones that aren't and have difficult spots to reach with tools, some wonder lube of the week will not make a difference.

While I just about never disagree with PTZ, and I'm not really disagreeing with him, just a difference of philosophies.... I cannot fathom spending $30 on a small tub of lube, when I can Get 5 gallons of Mobil 1 syth for less. I have yet, in my years in the Mil, working for the gov, and as a enthusiest, have found it to be lacking as a Lube. I could care less about cleaning unless it effects reliability and accuracy. Then again the same people in this thread (mostly) must spend more time cleaning and worrying about pretting up their guns than actually using them. I

man don't hold back tell us how you really feel,let it out man!
 
Shit, a buddy gave me 2 bottles of fireclean and here I am using frog lube. School me on this, if you need to get out copper (I use bore tech eliminator ) do that first... I know that it cleans out carbon as well.... Then use some dry patches to clean up bore tech.... Then swab a few patches of fire clean down the barrel until completely clean and let it be till I shoot next??... ( cleaning out the bore before I shoot ofcourse) Does this sound right??
My usual routine... Bore tech carbon .... Bore tech dleminator... Frog lube in the bore as a protectant....

Fire clean is that much better??

Clean your guns copper out if it needs it and then remove all or as much of any other product from your gun. THEN treat it with FirClean until a light sheen is built up. Let it it a few days and go back and give it a look. Chances are your gun will be dirty again as the FireClean really pulls the crud out of the metal. Once thats done, reapply a light sheen as needed on all parts. After you shoot your gun, wipe it down as seen in the videos. Don't use any other cleaning products, just Fireclean. If you use a different product while on the range on the gun, you might see some gumming. Fireclean doesn't let anything stick to your metal parts and what ever other product you put on top of the Fireclean may gum up. It's really pretty easy to remember, just use FireClean for Cleaning, Lubricating and Protecting and nothing else. Also, you don't have to soak or drench you gun with FireClean, just apply until all metal parts have a light sheen/coating on them.
 
I new a guy who ran a goose hunting operation for decades. he would pull up to the gas pump, flip the lever on and run a gallon of gas thru his browning A5. every day for 30 years. That gun ran like it was on fire.
 
Every day for 30 years? At today's prices that's ~$1,100 dollars per year, depending on local gas prices. And people here are bent out of shape over a ~$20 bottle of lube that will last a few years???

Gas will leave a light coating of non volatile organics. And flushing it out every day removes the crud and what not. Even money says that once gas got too expensive (and he laid off of his regimen for a while) it took a good cleaning to get the gun running in top form again.

I use Frog lube as I can clean my guns in the house on the kitchen counter and not worry about my wife complaining. But as Cobracutter has said, cleaing a gun really isn't that hard. Use what makes you feel good. If you are half-assed diligent about any regimen then any of the available cleaner/lube/protectants will be more than sufficient.
 
Isn't the whole point of Froglube that you coat the metal so that it penetrates into the pores so that you need a lot (if any) lube when in use? The ease of cleanup is a huge benefit, but I don't think it was the intent of the product.

That being said, I've only treated my Glock with it so far. Only been to the range once and fired 50 or so rounds through it. Need to run another couple of hundred rounds through before I do my second treatment. I believe after the second treatment, there's no need to lube anymore. You can run the gun completely dry. But then again, I've seen the video where the guy buried a Glock, hosed it off and started shooting it right away.