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Possible 338 Lapua build... help/thoughts?

cundiff5535

cundiff5535

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 25, 2012
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Mokena IL
Hey SH friends, I want to branch out to a 338 lapua rifle. I typically like putting my rifles together but, know little about 338 lapua builders/makers. I honestly see no real reason at this point of spending 8K+ on a rifle that I most likely will not be able to shoot to its capability more than a few times a year. So in saying that, can anyone tell me what makes a nice action? Looking for best bang for buck but, not junk. I am curious as to thoughts on barrel... twist... etc. Chassis/stock etc!

I know I am asking a lot in this but, I typically tackle projects over time. I can afford to drop a $1000-$1500 at a time just not huge chunks at once:) Anyway, any help/thoughts/etc would help.

If anyone wants to know what I am wanting to do with this... Bench out to 800-1000 and some steel when I get out to my summer house. In saying that, I just want one of these, no other reason other than that. Ill worry about Glass later as this will probably have a NF scope on it.

Looking forward to thoughts!
 
Best bang for your buck action, IMO, is probably the Stiller TAC 338. Lots of features for a pretty good price of about $1050, including a 20 MOA rail. It has a fluted bolt, M16 extractor, large bolt knob, .750" bolt, etc. It is slightly bigger in diameter and has a longer tennon, so in most chassis systems made for a Rem 700 long action will require some modification to fit it. Defiance, Surgeon (if you can get one), and Badger all make good actions for the 338 Lapua as well, but they are more expensive than the Stiller.

Barrels, any of the quality barrel makers are probably good to go, but it seems most guys here like Bartlein, Brux, Rock Creek, Krieger. Twist rates that are popular are 10", 9.5", 9.3", 9" that I've seen. Contour is really a choice of how heavy you want it.

Stock/chassis choices are very personal. Ergonomics are different for each stock and not everyone likes the same thing. A quality fiberglass stock from Manners or McMillan is the way to go for a traditional style stock, but wait times are fairly long on them. Chassis systems are plentiful. You can get a McRee, XLR, KRG, AICS, AICS AX, or go big for something along the lines of an Ashbury or Cadex chassis that will cost north of $1500. I'd say whatever you get for a stock, make sure it has an adjustable comb and length of pull.

I'd personally look at a Timney trigger on the more conservative price side or a CG/Xtreme or Huber on the higher end.

A muzzle brake will be almost a necessity, a couple popular ones are the Badger FTE and the APA Fat Bastard.

Check bugholes.com for parts, along with 3rdgss.com. Smith's sometimes have the parts on hand for builds too. I've heard good things about Accurate Ordnance, and they seem to keep a fairly extensive inventory at the ready.

The other thing to think about is that there are a lot of nice factory 338 rifles out there. One of the best deals on a high end factory rifle would be a Sako TRG. Good ergonomics, accurate, fairly light weight, AWESOME trigger, but accessories are expensive. DTA and AI are popular 338 factory rifles, but are quite expensive.

Hope this is of some help to you, and good luck on your build.

Justin
 
Justin, for sure great info... Looks like the first thing I will get is the action, followed by barrel then stock and so on. Ill probably call Accurate Ordnance on parts and thoughts and go from there... very beginning stages of even thinking this out!

Thanks for the quick reply!
 
cundiff5535 said:
Justin, for sure great info... Looks like the first thing I will get is the action, followed by barrel then stock and so on. Ill probably call Accurate Ordnance on parts and thoughts and go from there... very beginning stages of even thinking this out!

Thanks for the quick reply!
Click to expand...

Your name makes me cringe from the 2011 AFC CC game. Please tell me your not related!
 
800 to 1000 yards is not .338 LM distances. Buy a .308 or .300 win mag and save yourself some money.
 
Kilmore said:
800 to 1000 yards is not .338 LM distances. Buy a .308 or .300 win mag and save yourself some money.
Click to expand...

Kilmore as I agree with you to an extent, living where I live thats just what I have access to for now. And I understand ^^This point but, I still want the 338! Not for any other reason other than to say I have one in my collection. I have a few 308 rifles already.
 
Jim Ruiz at Predator Custom Shop built me a .338 on a trued Remington action on a Rock Creek barrel. It's probably the most accurate rifle I own. Test group was .394" @100 yards with BH ammo. I had an AI stock put on. It cost me less than $4k after everything was done
 
Km22 said:
Jim Ruiz at Predator Custom Shop built me a .338 on a trued Remington action on a Rock Creek barrel. It's probably the most accurate rifle I own. Test group was .394" @100 yards with BH ammo. I had an AI stock put on. It cost me less than $4k after everything was done
Click to expand...

Did Predator bounce back from their bankruptcy?
 
Many will disagree but here are my thoughts after reading what you will be using it for and why you want one in the first place. It also fits within your budget.

Why not just get a complete rifle like a Savage 110 HSP in .338LM? You said you don't need a full custom, you only plan to shoot to 1000 yds, and can only spend $1500 at a time. I'd buy this for $1300, get a scope, and then get out and enjoy it! You can upgrade it over time, as you see fit, or just jeep shooting instead of saving up for more parts...
 
yellowXJ said:
Many will disagree but here are my thoughts after reading what you will be using it for and why you want one in the first place. It also fits within your budget.

Why not just get a complete rifle like a Savage 110 HSP in .338LM? You said you don't need a full custom, you only plan to shoot to 1000 yds, and can only spend $1500 at a time. I'd buy this for $1300, get a scope, and then get out and enjoy it! You can upgrade it over time, as you see fit, or just jeep shooting instead of saving up for more parts...
Click to expand...

As much as I have already thought about this... I just cant bring myself to do it. I would rather wait and get it exactly the way I want than buy a Savage (which I have heard horrible things about) and piece something together just to say "I have it". I like to do it right once and never worry about it again.
 
Here are my suggestions: Choose one of the following actions: Stiller TAC 338, Defiance, BAT, McMillan (It really doesn't matter) price will vary from 1100.00-1600.00. Choose a decent barrel: (I have personally used Krieger, Bartlein, Shillen and McGowan (There are many others that I have no experience with). They are all very good. My preference for stock would be a Bell and Carlson A5. Yes I have tried McMillan. I own three of them. They look really cool. They will NOT make your rifle more accurate! All of my B&C stocks are skim bedded. There is no difference in performance. There is a huge difference in esthetics. The McMillans look nicer. Select some bottom metal that you like: Badger, Surgeon, Seekins, CDI, all of them will get the job done. Find a good trigger: Timney, Jewel, Rifle Basix (It doesn't really matter). Find a good muzzle brake: Badger FTE, JP enterprises recoil eliminator, FAT Bastard, Short bastard, Skinny Bastard, Ugly bastard (it really doesn't matter (my favorite is actually the JP enterprises: Ugly but effective)). The one thing that absolutely matters is a good rifle smith. If your gunsmith is incompetent the best components will be compromised. If they are great, they can do wonderful things with mediocre components. If you find a good one, they will have preference for some or all of the equipment you need. Listen to them. They have to build your Excaliber. If you follow their directions and the rifle won't put two rounds within the same postal zone, then they have a problem, not you. I would say that this is my two cents worth, but I have probably gone on for at least two bits.
 
cundiff5535 said:
Hey SH friends, I want to branch out to a 338 lapua rifle. I typically like putting my rifles together but, know little about 338 lapua builders/makers. I honestly see no real reason at this point of spending 8K+ on a rifle that I most likely will not be able to shoot to its capability more than a few times a year. So in saying that, can anyone tell me what makes a nice action? Looking for best bang for buck but, not junk. I am curious as to thoughts on barrel... twist... etc. Chassis/stock etc!

I know I am asking a lot in this but, I typically tackle projects over time. I can afford to drop a $1000-$1500 at a time just not huge chunks at once:) Anyway, any help/thoughts/etc would help.

If anyone wants to know what I am wanting to do with this... Bench out to 800-1000 and some steel when I get out to my summer house. In saying that, I just want one of these, no other reason other than that. Ill worry about Glass later as this will probably have a NF scope on it.
Looking forward to thoughts!
Click to expand...

I can't see spending $7 a pop on 338 Lapua ammo when 338 win mag is cheaper and, for all intents and purposes,has identical, if not slightly better ballistics. Go with the win mag.
 
What about a 338 Edge. Little more velocity, get a savage action, stock, timney, and a mcgowen barrel and it'll save you a pile of money. This is a good route if you reload. 1-9.3 to 1-9.5 Twist for a 300grn bullet, if you want a lighter bullet then go with a 1-10 twist. Just a thought if you don't plan on spending a boat load of money. There is a bunch of info over at longrangehunting.com about the Edge. I've got a buddy who loves his Edge, i wanted something different so i went with a Norma.

xdeano
 
Yes indeed, I erred egegiously, 300fps is indeed no small thing, but still worth the cost?? Not in my book. Apologies gentlemen, must have been looking at old data when I first checked it out. 2 years ago, the win mag edged the lapua out by 20-50fps. I stand corrected.
 
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