• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

Official (DTA) SRS, HTI, Covert, Hunter Thread

Here is my setup in the 1720, still trying to figure out how to best fit the mags in there with everything else - but so far so good!

[video=youtube;_dDYeA4B-co]https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=_dDYeA4B-co[/video]
 
I got my FDE/FDE A1 Covert that I ordered in the spring from EuroOptic. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet, but it seems awesome. Impressive trigger. I wish it would take AR15 grips though. The one on it seems a little large.

What sling is everyone running?

Can you add the monopod later?

Any place to find mags for <$100? Are the mags supposed to drop free?

Here's a crappy pic. Running a NF 2.5-10x32 in a GDI mount for now, and a Sandstorm suppressor.
 
Last edited:
For the wrench, I noticed they use the Seekonk, and for the allen keys and tool set, they use the Topeak X-Tool in black. To save you money, you can order the Seekonk tool from Protorquetools.com, and get the X-Tool off Amazon. Here's what you want:

BT-2L 3/8" Seekonk T handle Preset Slip Type Torque Wrench 3/8"Dr 2-80 inch lbs., locking type with hammer ends: 101.52, 106.08 with the 5mm drive, and it's free shipping over 100 dollars. Specify 80 inch pounds for the HTI, 70 for the SRS.

The Topeak X-Tool, 10 piece in black, can be ordered on Amazon for about $13 shipped, tax and all (I'm in WA) or $12 something if you aren't a WA resident. Just search for "Topeak X-Tool" and you'll find it. It's the black "ten piece" one. The silver one is the same, but, well, silver.

$106.08+$13=$119.08; a hell of a lot better than $180, which is what DTA charges for them with the torque wrench already set (you have to wait a couple weeks on the wrench for them to set it to your specs.)

The entire cleaning kit can be put together for around $200, depending on exactly what you want in it and what kind of case you want.

Just figured I'd put out that good money saver tip in case it hasn't been mentioned yet.

Eurooptic has you taken care of: $112
DTA SRS Torque Wrench w/5mm Hex Bit TLS-TRQ-002 - EuroOptic.com

and just the wrench: $87
Nightforce 68 inch/LB Torque Wrench A179 - EuroOptic.com
 
it all looks f..king great to me!!! so im in cali, and gonna be moving to the usa/nevada hope fully in yr or 2. is it very hard to get a can for my srs a1 when i get it. im aware cali is just flat no, but do all states make you fill paperwork out for them?
 
it all looks f..king great to me!!! so im in cali, and gonna be moving to the usa/nevada hope fully in yr or 2. is it very hard to get a can for my srs a1 when i get it. im aware cali is just flat no, but do all states make you fill paperwork out for them?

It is not difficult to get a suppressor in a free state, but there is a considerable wait for the individual transfer from you dealer to clear the NFA branch of the ATF. You will need to do the Form 4 individual transfer paperwork in any state that allows you to own a suppressor.
 
Guys... My DTA is inbound. I have been told the reducers for my HTI mount are on another order that is yet to come in.

Will standard height Nightforce rings be ok with a 56mm NXS? From memory the rings are medium height. Will confirm when I'm back home.

I would like to know if I can shoot the rifle when she comes in or if I need to wait for ring reducers to come in.

Cheers

So check this out. I just ordered this rail. It will give you an extra 1/4 inch of height for mounting standard height rings or mounts on to your DTA rail. I got this for $34.00 from YHM (yankee hill machining). Now I should be able to use my 18 MOA base without bottoming out with the 56mm objective.

usro.png
 
it all looks f..king great to me!!! so im in cali, and gonna be moving to the usa/nevada hope fully in yr or 2. is it very hard to get a can for my srs a1 when i get it. im aware cali is just flat no, but do all states make you fill paperwork out for them?

The paperwork you fill out for suppressors is Federal in all cases and additionally state in some cases. Most states allow ownership of otherwise prohibited firearms like suppressors or machineguns as long as they are registered federally and owned in accordance with Federal regs. Its actually legal in kommifornia though you can't get the sign off from the state to get the federal forms done. Right now the federal forms are taking about 8 months to be approved and the Feds charge you a $200 tax to do the transfer paperwork. They're legal in nevada and arizona and signoffs are not a problem in most locations in those 2 states. If you have specific questions ask away. I'm a class 2 manufacturer who builds some specialty suppressors and other NFA stuff as well as doing transfers. There are a lot of others on the boards who are manufacturers and dealers as well. Lots of help available.

Frank
 
it all looks f..king great to me!!! so im in cali, and gonna be moving to the usa/nevada hope fully in yr or 2. is it very hard to get a can for my srs a1 when i get it. im aware cali is just flat no, but do all states make you fill paperwork out for them?

The only place I know of where you can get a can without any paperwork is New Zealand. The paperwork takes time in most states, but is doable, assuming you're not afraid of paperwork or wait times.
 
sounds great! thank you for the help with info, another point to look forward too, once i get there for good. paperwork no big e, time i got. freedom and third degree i do not here. soooo burnt out of all it!! they can have there bullet button lolol
 
There was someone who had a few Gen 1 Style bolts he was looking to sell. He posted in this thread and I had a PM. But I accidentally deleted it. Does anyone know his user name?
 
Last edited:
Gen1 style mags? As in the first batch of spot welded ones before they fixed them?
 
There was someone who had a few Gen 1 Style bolts he was looking to sell. He posted in this thread and I had a PM. But I accidentally deleted it. Does anyone know his user name?

I think I had sent you a PM about it. The only new Gen 1 bolt that I have left is a .308.
 
So check this out. I just ordered this rail. It will give you an extra 1/4 inch of height for mounting standard height rings or mounts on to your DTA rail. I got this for $34.00 from YHM (yankee hill machining). Now I should be able to use my 18 MOA base without bottoming out with the 56mm objective.

usro.png

Thank you for replying :)

So it looks like standard height rings and a 56mm objective wont fit the SRS Chassis.... bummer

HTI rings with electrical tape clandestine reducers it is then ;)
 
so wait, theres clearance problem with a 56mm for the srs a1 chassis? what moa mount will work for the closest? or am i total misunderstanding? i have a steiner 56mm lens, thats gonna be put on once the rifle gets here.
 
Not with a standard DTA mount. They are trying to rig other things up using regular rings and risers. Stick with a 1.5" height mount and you are golden.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
so wait, theres clearance problem with a 56mm for the srs a1 chassis? what moa mount will work for the closest? or am i total misunderstanding? i have a steiner 56mm lens, thats gonna be put on once the rifle gets here.


Only with standard height rings... eg, Nightforce Medium height rings. I ordered the HTI rings with reducers for my NF NXS, however I was told the reducers are coming in a different order. So I wanted to know If I could make do with existing rings that I have.
 
Only with standard height rings... eg, Nightforce Medium height rings. I ordered the HTI rings with reducers for my NF NXS, however I was told the reducers are coming in a different order. So I wanted to know If I could make do with existing rings that I have.

As Russ says the best way to go if you have the cash is get the proper mount, like the DTA, or something that has 1.5" height. But if you want to make your rings work then you could use a riser which will give you an additional rise so your bell housing clears. The additional riser such as the yankee hill is the cheep route but it works.
 
Last edited:
Anyone have issues feeding from the .308 mags running M118LR? Doesn't seem like it is letting the round go, and sometimes it tries to go in at either too much or too little of an angle when chambering. Maybe I need another mag :(
 
Anyone have issues feeding from the .308 mags running M118LR? Doesn't seem like it is letting the round go, and sometimes it tries to go in at either too much or too little of an angle when chambering. Maybe I need another mag :(

You should not be having that issue. I would suggest getting another magazine. If it is a mag issue, DTA will replace the mag.
 
Anyone have issues feeding from the .308 mags running M118LR? Doesn't seem like it is letting the round go, and sometimes it tries to go in at either too much or too little of an angle when chambering. Maybe I need another mag :(

Have you smoothed the feed lips? sometimes they are a bit sharp and cut into the case causing strife. Take to them with your wife's best nail file, and take the edge off them. T'will keep your brass looking better as well. You'll know if all your cases have two lines scratched into them all the time. If that doesn't work, call the office, but be sure an tell 'em I sent ya, they'll treat you good despite my terrible reputation.
 
If I had a wife I wouldn't have the rifle haha. I'll see what I can do with a file tonight and take it out shooting tomorrow. It won't feed from the mag at all. Tried it with FGMM as well. Hopefully some filing takes care of it. Don't have a lotta time to wait for a mag vs. go hunting until I start traveling again
 
Last edited:
As many of probably already know, this thing shoots whatever I feed it really well. I ran 40 rds of the Winchester 180 grn hunting stuff from Wally World this weekend and held 3 inches at 500. I call that a win for a guy who is out of shape spent most of my time watching my pulse through the glass and learning proper cheek weld on the new rifle. At 100 they were running through the same hole.
 
Just bought my dream scope, USO sn3 5-25 35mm tube, it was a too good of a deal to pass up. Mounted on a DTA 35mm 30moa mount and found out that I can't zero at 100 yards, anyone else running this setup with similar issues? anyone knows what the total elevation clicks I get from the scope? I can't find the info on USO website because they are no longer producing the 35mm tube. Thanks!
 
Does it have EREK? If so you'll likely need to adjust that to get zeroed. I ran a 34mm USO on a 30moa DTA mount with no issues.
 
Just bought my dream scope, USO sn3 5-25 35mm tube, it was a too good of a deal to pass up. Mounted on a DTA 35mm 30moa mount and found out that I can't zero at 100 yards, anyone else running this setup with similar issues? anyone knows what the total elevation clicks I get from the scope? I can't find the info on USO website because they are no longer producing the 35mm tube. Thanks!

I would be very surprised if you can't get that to zero at 100. Myself and a couple other guys ran that exact scope on our rifles here at DTA and it has plenty of elevation. I ran mine in a 40 MOA mount.

1) Don't laugh or take offense. Is your scope mount backwards. I have seen it more than once. I'm sure you won't post up if it is, but that might be your issue and its an easy fix.
2) Is it an EREK knob? If so are you familiar with how it works? You may need to unlock it and run it lower in the elevation.
 
Thanks guys! I got so excited and never bother to figure out how to use the EREK knob. I will get it unlock it and test it out. Guess it's not too different from having the scope mounted backward! :eek:
 

Yeah, I got one for the HTI, but for a little bit more I also got the X-tool too, and the wrench is still cheaper through protorquetools.com ($106.08 shipped w/5mm bit) and the X-tool through Amazon ($13 --I had to pay tax). In a do-over, I wouldn't have gotten the X-Tool at all though (below) just the wrench.

Just putting out there a cheap way to get your stuff a little more directly, that's all. See, you can also order the tool in a variety of setups, ratcheting, locking, etc., then with hammer end handles or straight bar. There are larger ones with bigger handles and less error that would be better suited for in a shop. You get the idea.

After having the X-Tool, I honestly think I'd be better suited to just carrying the appropriate hex keys for the job, and I think I will. I think it's dead weight and not all that useful in the toolbox either. The small wrench is easy to lose, and there isn't one that works well for the rails. No idea why they settled on using that.

I did go to Europtic to get an LRA bipod though. Seems those are getting scarce. They do have some good long range stuff, and the military/vet discount is nice too.

This HTI is a slick rifle, just wanna thank Ryan for making it happen! Totally exceeded my expectations.
 
Have you smoothed the feed lips? sometimes they are a bit sharp and cut into the case causing strife. Take to them with your wife's best nail file, and take the edge off them. T'will keep your brass looking better as well. You'll know if all your cases have two lines scratched into them all the time. If that doesn't work, call the office, but be sure an tell 'em I sent ya, they'll treat you good despite my terrible reputation.


Filing the edges down worked. Went to the range, ran 25 rounds down the pipe with no issues. Thanks!

H
 
What is that white and black sticker just behind the bolt I see on everybody's rifles? Mine never had that.
 
Has anyone ever worked out what cerakote color DTA use for their FDE, I want to color match my barrel