anybody have experience with or thought about using a 300 norma mag in their dta?
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338 norma works. I don't see why 300 wouldn't. I've never tried it though.
Ordered a 308 and 300win benchmark barrels today. T-3 months. I need a Gen 1 barrel extension and mag bolt.
I have a brand new bolt .308 bolt and mag if you are interested.
MAGNETO QUESTION
But first some frivolous commentary.
Got my virgin DTA SRS A1 out to the range for break and sight in. Yesterday the DTA was black but I busted out the sand blaster and hit the plastic stock with mixed 40/70 glass grit and then painted everything up with Duracoat. The dura color is called Desert Lizzard Mirage, it's a mixture of FDE with a yellowish green, nice color in person.
Initially I put some ATOMIC 168 and accuracy was so so, groups were around 1". Then I moved on to some Hornaday 168 and things tightened up a little too around .75-.85. But then…. I did a light cleaning on the barrel and threw in some custom 175 SMK's CCI in Lapua brass loaded 0.01 off lands. Shot several tacks off my friends target, i'm a buddy like that
I was impressed with the out of the box break in accuracy of the DTA system. I think the trigger is quite good.
So here is the question:
I was not able to get my magneto chronograph to work with the DTA barrel, meaning none of the shots would register with the Magneto. As well it was a tight fit to get the bayonet and cable on the barrel between the muzzle brake and rail. Anyone else have this issue?
But first some frivolous commentary.
Got my virgin DTA SRS A1 out to the range for break and sight in. Yesterday the DTA was black but I busted out the sand blaster and hit the plastic stock with mixed 40/70 glass grit and then painted everything up with Duracoat. The dura color is called Desert Lizzard Mirage, it's a mixture of FDE with a yellowish green, nice color in person.
Initially I put some ATOMIC 168 and accuracy was so so, groups were around 1". Then I moved on to some Hornaday 168 and things tightened up a little too around .75-.85. But then…. I did a light cleaning on the barrel and threw in some custom 175 SMK's CCI in Lapua brass loaded 0.01 off lands. Shot several tacks off my friends target, i'm a buddy like that
I was impressed with the out of the box break in accuracy of the DTA system. I think the trigger is quite good.
So here is the question:
I was not able to get my magneto chronograph to work with the DTA barrel, meaning none of the shots would register with the Magneto. As well it was a tight fit to get the bayonet and cable on the barrel between the muzzle brake and rail. Anyone else have this issue?
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Anyone have a extra gen 1 extension and magnum bolt?
I think I might have a extension but no bolt
Mine works just fine. I can't think of a variable specific to DTA that would the affect Magnetospeed. Check the instructions to make sure you're not violating any of their guidelines as far as the attachment to the barrel goes.
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Curious but do you have a 26" barrel and a large muzzle brake on your barrel? I did have to bend the cord a fair amount in order to get the bayonet on with cable attached.
I just re created the scenario at home and the distance from brake to rail is short and the cable gets crimped. But the fix is to twist the bayonet at a 45% angle and the cord now goes between the rails easily. I will give it another shot next day at the range and see how that works.
Does/has anyone use the 3 port DTA SRS muzzle brake? Does it work good for muzzle jump?
http://www.deserttacticalarms.com/silencers/dta-srs-muzzle-brake.html
http://www.deserttacticalarms.com/silencers/dta-srs-muzzle-brake.html
Proper technique works great for muzzle jump.
However, the DTA brake is very effective at attenuating recoil. If your muzzle hops under fire, it won't be the DTA brake's fault.
That brake you linked is old, outdated. To my knowledge they don't sell that one anymore. (I hope they don't, the new one is far better)
http://www.deserttacticalarms.com/silencers/dta-srs-qd-brake-297.html
However, the DTA brake is very effective at attenuating recoil. If your muzzle hops under fire, it won't be the DTA brake's fault.
That brake you linked is old, outdated. To my knowledge they don't sell that one anymore. (I hope they don't, the new one is far better)
http://www.deserttacticalarms.com/silencers/dta-srs-qd-brake-297.html
Eh, I would argue that the original non-QD brake is more effective at taming recoil. I ran one on my .338LM for a few years before switching to the QD model for suppressor use and right away I noticed felt recoil increased easily 50%. With the non-QD model it felt like shooting a .308WIN, but with the QD it felt more like the magnum caliber it is. Of course, when used in conjunction with a good suppressor, that's kind of a moot point, but if you're going to compare the recoil reduction between them standalone, the non-QD is more effective, in my opinion.
Works great minimizing recoil. Shot 100rds of 300WM on Saturday; the recoil impulse is just slightly sharper than a 308Win. I have no issue with Muzzle jump/hop. I shoot off of a bench with a Atlas bipod and make sure I'm positioned inline with the barrel and the stock is seated into the shoulder pocket; recoil is then directed straight back.
I guess it all depends on the interpretation of the word "effective."
Guys... My DTA is inbound. I have been told the reducers for my HTI mount are on another order that is yet to come in.
Will standard height Nightforce rings be ok with a 56mm NXS? From memory the rings are medium height. Will confirm when I'm back home.
I would like to know if I can shoot the rifle when she comes in or if I need to wait for ring reducers to come in.
Cheers
Will standard height Nightforce rings be ok with a 56mm NXS? From memory the rings are medium height. Will confirm when I'm back home.
I would like to know if I can shoot the rifle when she comes in or if I need to wait for ring reducers to come in.
Cheers
I tried to use my medium height AI mount with 18 MOA cant and both my Premier and SnB with 56mm objective would not work. However if I use my AI with 0 MOA there is some clearance left. Your rings have 0 cant so may work. Not sure if this helps. but it's gonna be close so start pricing out higher-ish rings perhaps?
we'll VMAN im down right stoked for you!!! congrats bro, i got great news too, im still waiting lolol ya not a word of it. when did you order your machine from them? i ended up buying another rifle to play with, done waiting. which barrels did you order for it? and what glass on top? cheers bro happy for you get some pics when u can
ya not a word of it. when did you order your machine from them? i ended up buying another rifle to play with, done waiting. which barrels did you order for it? and what glass on top? cheers bro happy for you get some pics when u can we'll VMAN im down right stoked for you!!! congrats bro, i got great news too, im still waiting lolol
Cheers mate
I have had her on order for over 6 months. Covert Chassis A-1 with a 6.5x47 barrel. For the time being I have a 3-15x56 NXS waiting to go on top of her. HTI rings are also coming with the rifle, however the reducers will come at a later date. I dont have a 34mm scope to go on so bummer there.
I will end up getting a .338 Lapua conversion, and a .223 conversion from SAC once thats out. I would also like a covert barrel of some sort in the future, but I will have to asses finances I guess.
Really looking forward to trying this girl out and I will post up pics when she arrives. Should be about a week away from my filthy hands.
Keep up with the waiting game mate, I'm sure its all worth it in the end
Vman,
my rifle arrived yesterday and I have mags and other accessories also caught up in the same order mayhem you speak of.
my rifle arrived yesterday and I have mags and other accessories also caught up in the same order mayhem you speak of.
Does anyone know where I can get the modular rail pieces that fit the SRS A1 foregrip? Or is it a proprietary DTA part?
Nevermind!
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Looking for a 34mm ring mount for a RMR similar to the one in the pic...anyone know for any?
Anyone ever use a Fat Bastard brake from American Precision? I shot my rifle today for the first time. The first two rounds out of the barrel "key holed". That is exactly what I was expecting. Ran 40 rounds through it today and was very pleased. This is definitely a sub 1/2 MOA rifle. If I did my part I consistently had rounds touching. Used 180 grain HSM Police Tactical soft points and Winchester Power Max 150 grain hunting ammo. The HSM was the winner in that bout. I am using a Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP scope on an AADmount with 20 MOA cant. Shot in the with the wind over my right shoulder and gusting to 30 mph today at B Tactical in Greenville, TX. Only had a 100 yard range to deal with, but that was all I needed for this exercise.
Keyholed normally refers to bullets hitting the target sideways....its a very bad thing which means your barrel is not stabilizing the bullet. Did your rifle do that or are you referring to bugholes??? which refers to tiny little groups of bullet holes touching each other.
Frank
They were touching inside each others holes. So second and third shots were just outside the enough to make the composite look like a skeleton key hole.
I was already looking at that but I want one that is closer to the bore, like the one I posted, that I can sight between the elevation and windage turrets like the pic below. Problem is the one or two I have seen only have a 30mm ring and I need 34mm.
The old style really felt softer to me by a noticeable margin. Only like the qd because of the suppressor.
TNVC makes a small rail that mounts to a scope called a SAR that I use with an RMR (with low profile) mount on my SPR. However I'm not sure if it's going to be low profile enough for you. You might have a look either way.
Thanks but no 34mm version.
I guess my questions is.. Anybody get a Covert and wish they got the SRS or vice versa? I would be putting a PMII 5-25x on her. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
I got an SRS before there was a Covert and since the only difference is the handguard, I got the shorter one when it became available. I think it's more versatile than the full length version unless you plan to run clip-on NODs or want the bipod or support out further. At this point I've pretty much kept the Covert handguard on most of the time.
If you don't get it with a monopod.. Can you add it on your own or have to send the chassis in?
If you've got an older Gen1 like me, you need to send in the chassis to have it cut to fit the monopod. Otherwise, the vast majority of chassis out there are already setup for the monopod and would just require the kit to be purchased and installed (easy to do on your own).
I did the same, but I've kept the Covert rail on ever since I got it FWIW.
Any word on the cheek piece yet? Mine is #21, I guess I need to send it out to mill it once they get caught up?
I ordered a bench mark 308 and 300win barrel for mine.
Get the rifle with the monopod. It works very nicely. I was very impressed with it. That really isn't saying much, but I went on the advice of some folks that I knew of that shoot for a living and am glad I got it on my rifle.
I'm with Dogtown on this one....get the monopod from the getgo. I didn't buy it originally though my rifle was already machined for it. All I had to do was buy the monopod and skins and it was worth every cent. My rifle is a Gen 1 in the late 1300 serial range. My buddies rifle in the late 1200's was not machined so his will have to go back for the mods.
As for the covert SRS question I, like Dogtown bought my rifle when there was no such thing as a covert so it had the long handguard. When the short handguards were offered I bought one and have never changed it back to the long one. There is no advantage to the long one for most of us and no disadvantage I can see to the short one. I still shoot my 26" barrels with the short handguard and once I added the monopod my groups shrunk up to ragged one holers. (not keyholed though) The shorter handguard gives you the ability to use any reasonable length barrel....ie 16" or longer. The long handguard limits you to 22" min if you want threads for a can or brake. One of the big advantages of this rifle is the small overall length and a 16" barrel makes it ideal for many tasks. The barrel pictured is 17" and is used mainly for subsonics in 338BR though we're shooting some 200gr Hornady SSTs at 2300fps with this little guy. 300gr SMK's at 1050fps are very very quiet and hard hitting.
Hope that helps
Frank
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+1 on the monopod, dont know how I ever got along without it.
Also in regards to mythbusters; Fuck you you beret wearing wannabe scientist, you shame us all everytime you pickup a gun, the value of my SRS just dropped when you picked one up. I hope someone jonny knocksville's your dumb ass in a rocket into space. And takes your crew out in the process.
Also in regards to mythbusters; Fuck you you beret wearing wannabe scientist, you shame us all everytime you pickup a gun, the value of my SRS just dropped when you picked one up. I hope someone jonny knocksville's your dumb ass in a rocket into space. And takes your crew out in the process.
I just got my .50BMG HTI, going to pick up the barrel here soon. Likely get the .375CT down the road too. Excited to get it set up, get the loading gear and get going. Got the can in the works with Elite Iron, figuring out which bipod to get, waiting on the NF Beast for the optics. May borrow the USO off my Grendel for a few shots in the meantime.
For the wrench, I noticed they use the Seekonk, and for the allen keys and tool set, they use the Topeak X-Tool in black. To save you money, you can order the Seekonk tool from Protorquetools.com, and get the X-Tool off Amazon. Here's what you want:
BT-2L 3/8" Seekonk T handle Preset Slip Type Torque Wrench 3/8"Dr 2-80 inch lbs., locking type with hammer ends: 101.52, 106.08 with the 5mm drive, and it's free shipping over 100 dollars. Specify 80 inch pounds for the HTI, 70 for the SRS.
The Topeak X-Tool, 10 piece in black, can be ordered on Amazon for about $13 shipped, tax and all (I'm in WA) or $12 something if you aren't a WA resident. Just search for "Topeak X-Tool" and you'll find it. It's the black "ten piece" one. The silver one is the same, but, well, silver.
$106.08+$13=$119.08; a hell of a lot better than $180, which is what DTA charges for them with the torque wrench already set (you have to wait a couple weeks on the wrench for them to set it to your specs.)
The entire cleaning kit can be put together for around $200, depending on exactly what you want in it and what kind of case you want.
Just figured I'd put out that good money saver tip in case it hasn't been mentioned yet.
For the wrench, I noticed they use the Seekonk, and for the allen keys and tool set, they use the Topeak X-Tool in black. To save you money, you can order the Seekonk tool from Protorquetools.com, and get the X-Tool off Amazon. Here's what you want:
BT-2L 3/8" Seekonk T handle Preset Slip Type Torque Wrench 3/8"Dr 2-80 inch lbs., locking type with hammer ends: 101.52, 106.08 with the 5mm drive, and it's free shipping over 100 dollars. Specify 80 inch pounds for the HTI, 70 for the SRS.
The Topeak X-Tool, 10 piece in black, can be ordered on Amazon for about $13 shipped, tax and all (I'm in WA) or $12 something if you aren't a WA resident. Just search for "Topeak X-Tool" and you'll find it. It's the black "ten piece" one. The silver one is the same, but, well, silver.
$106.08+$13=$119.08; a hell of a lot better than $180, which is what DTA charges for them with the torque wrench already set (you have to wait a couple weeks on the wrench for them to set it to your specs.)
The entire cleaning kit can be put together for around $200, depending on exactly what you want in it and what kind of case you want.
Just figured I'd put out that good money saver tip in case it hasn't been mentioned yet.
