Tikka CTR vs Lite + New barrel?

[SuperSneakySniper]

Hey there guys,
A bit of a problem choosing here, I know the CTR has great factory performance, (i prefer a little thicker barrel but eh, its not far off).
However, do you guys think that, if i plan to change the barrel and stock later on down the road anyways, should i just get the Lite and gunsmith it off the bat? Or shoot out the CTR? I plan to compete withit as soon as its in my hands either way, i just dont know how well the CTR holds up to long strings of fire (local matches have long strings).

Also, the CTR has a phosphate coated bolt, and i like the look of the black bolt... But is it any better than the regular stainless bolt that comes with the Lite though? As far as being less prone to rusting or jamming up in poor weather? Anyone have problems with the stainless bolt and dust? Im about to shoot a LOT in dusty places.

 

[260284]

My 20" CTR in 260 held up to being shot in matches with no issues. I had the barrel hot enough in 90+ degree weather to get burned pretty good. If the 24" 6.5 Creedmoor was offered when I bought mine, I would have gone that route. We had some stages that were 12-15 rounds in 2.5-3 minutes, some were 10 rounds in 90 seconds.

If I were considering a match only gun, I would look hard at the TAC A1. It comes with 3 magazines and a good looking chassis. I ended up putting mine in a GGS Predator and stayed with the factory magazines. They feed great and I can load to 2.95" in them. They are $72 at Optics Planet and Beretta had them buy 2, get 1 free. They end up being $66 each that way. I picked up two off of here used for $60 and $70 shipped.

 

[tt123]

Unless I got a killer deal on a used Lite and on a new barrel,bolt handle, picatinny rail etc, I'd expect it to cost you more to get the Lite ready for competition. The CTR can run with MDT polymer mags if you want cheap extra mags for it (they might be tight to start with, but they loosen up very quickly), but magazines for the Lite might be a more difficult proposition without a new bottom metal or complete chassis.

 

[260284]

The CTR mags feed so smooth, I used to open my bolt to make sure I picked up the next round.

 

[Simia Dei]

I bought a CTR in 243 and am getting both 6.5x47 and 7SAUM barrels spun up for it while I wait for my Manners T4A to turn up to drop it into. My smith is building this into a switch barrel with a barrel vice/action wrench setup at this stage and has told me the factory 243 barrel will be a pain in the arse to remove but he can do it and retain its usability.

I'd suggest getting the CTR for the mag/DBM alone and drop it into a traditional stock down the track. If you want to use a chassis over a traditional stock, go the lite and build from there. You can always discuss building a multiple barrelled rig with a competent smith on either and retain use of the lite barrel as well if you go down that pathway.

 

[dannySH]

I've done that before with both, the CTR and T3X Lite. If you are planning to rebarrel and get a new stock or a Chassis going with the Lite will be cheaper. Buy a Lite, get a prefit barrel (I have two from Josh at PVA), put it on a KRG bravo, buy a couple of AICS type mags. Done. If you are planning to shoot the factory barrel then go with the CTR.
Both bolts are smooth, one is teflon coated but you can't feel the difference between them.

 

[RampedRaptor]

I went lite also. Great action and you can get the barrel/chassis you want. A++++ for glades armory’s bolt handles and shrouds

 

[SuperSneakySniper]

Wow, I keep hearing such great things about the CTR mags, i wasnt really even considering using them honestly, but ill have to give them a second look.

I absolutely love the MPA chassis and that was my original plan, ive never had a ton of experience with a Manners/McMillan before, but if the CTR mags are really that good, maybe i should give that traditional stock route a try in order to keep the use of the CTR mags?

I did look at the factory chassis Tikkas like the TSR and Tac, but i didnt really like the feel of them personally, at least, not in comparison tonthe chassis i ran with my old 700 builds.

Now the question becomes... Is the factory mag feeding with the CTR that much better than with say an MPA+AICS setup? Enough to justify changing my stock/chassis plan?

Or is the AICS smooth enough? Because if an MPA+AICS Tikka build feeds just as smooth as an MPA+AICS 700 build, i dont know if id see the need to keep using the CTR mags.

 

[260284]

I bought a CTR in 243 and am getting both 6.5x47 and 7SAUM barrels spun up for it while I wait for my Manners T4A to turn up to drop it into. My smith is building this into a switch barrel with a barrel vice/action wrench setup at this stage and has told me the factory 243 barrel will be a pain in the arse to remove but he can do it and retain its usability.

I'd suggest getting the CTR for the mag/DBM alone and drop it into a traditional stock down the track. If you want to use a chassis over a traditional stock, go the lite and build from there. You can always discuss building a multiple barrelled rig with a competent smith on either and retain use of the lite barrel as well if you go down that pathway.

Where did find a CTR in 243? I had a friend with a lathe make a relief cut in my 260 barrel to get it loose. It was pretty much toast and I have two 6.5 Creedmoor barrels for it now. A 23.5” medium palma Bartlein and a 20” factory takeoff CTR barrel. I can swap them in about 15-20 minutes.

 

[Simia Dei]

Where did find a CTR in 243? I had a friend with a lathe make a relief cut in my 260 barrel to get it loose. It was pretty much toast and I have two 6.5 Creedmoor barrels for it now. A 23.5” medium palma Bartlein and a 20” factory takeoff CTR barrel. I can swap them in about 15-20 minutes.

I'm in Aus mate, they're pretty common here.

Are you you using a barrel vice and action wrench?

 

[el_cazador713]

I went lite also. Great action and you can get the barrel/chassis you want. A++++ for glades armory’s bolt handles and shrouds

Really like those bolt handles!

 

[SuperSneakySniper]

Nice to hear! What kind of chassis/stocks do yall run? I dont know why but it seems like 9 out of 10 people who change out the stock use a KRG X-Ray, any specific reason why? Anyone running something different? Chassis to avoid?

 

[dannySH]

Nice to hear! What kind of chassis/stocks do yall run? I dont know why but it seems like 9 out of 10 people who change out the stock use a KRG X-Ray, any specific reason why? Anyone running something different? Chassis to avoid?

I have one in a X-Ray, other in a McM Game Scout, other in a McM A3-5 and the other in a Manners A6.

 

[BCP]

Nice to hear! What kind of chassis/stocks do yall run? I dont know why but it seems like 9 out of 10 people who change out the stock use a KRG X-Ray, any specific reason why? Anyone running something different? Chassis to avoid?

The KRG is the only tikka chassis I know of.

Mine is the CTR in 308 with a KRG, works great.

If I had to do it over again I might look for a really cheap tikka hunter and then have my gunsmith rebarrel it. Was thinking about rebarreling this one but it shoots so well I'm not fucking with it. My only real bitch is that the 20" barrel in 308 is pretty slow, I think I'm 2450fps or 2500fps with my hottest 175gr load.

edit: I see people talking about rebarreling them. How much more of a bitch is it vs say a Remington action? Do you cut off the old barrel and thread it or ???

 

[dannySH]

edit: I see people talking about rebarreling them. How much more of a bitch is it vs say a Remington action? Do you cut off the old barrel and thread it or ???

Tikka prefit barrel with nuts with Josh at PVA, Criterion thru Tim at Solid Accuracy and Hardy thru Dallas Rifles w/o nut.

 

[260284]

I'm in Aus mate, they're pretty common here.

Are you you using a barrel vice and action wrench?

That makes sense. They only came in 260 and 308 here in the states in the original T3.

I am using an internal action wrench from PVA. I tweaked it trying to get my factory barrel loose. I have the PMA Tool vise. It is the uncoated version of the Viper. It works great after the factory barrel is loose.

 

[260284]

Nice to hear! What kind of chassis/stocks do yall run? I dont know why but it seems like 9 out of 10 people who change out the stock use a KRG X-Ray, any specific reason why? Anyone running something different? Chassis to avoid?

I have my CTR in a GGS Predator using the factory bottom metal.

 

[Simia Dei]

That makes sense. They only came in 260 and 308 here in the states in the original T3.

I am using an internal action wrench from PVA. I tweaked it trying to get my factory barrel loose. I have the PMA Tool vise. It is the uncoated version of the Viper. It works great after the factory barrel is loose.

Ah ok, I'm trying to convince my smith to just machine some flats into the barrel for me and see how we go just using a torque wrench. Might try it on the factory barrel and see that it's feasible.