Reamer print used in Redding FL 65 Creedmoor match dies

XLR308

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Minuteman
  • Mar 22, 2018
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    Ive tried using the search function but am having trouble locating the info, I'm sure this question has been asked before.
    Not being lazy just thought for sure one or more of you would have this info, if not I will just send an email to Redding requesting it.
    I'm guessing the only major difference from SAAMI spec would be freebore and would have nothing to do with the die anyways just unsure of that.
    I ordered the type S match FL die set yesterday and am trying to get all of my ducks in a row to have a barrel spun up and chambered.

    Thanks in advance
     
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    Ive tried using the search function but am having trouble locating the info, I'm sure this question has been asked before.
    Not being lazy just thought for sure one or more of you would have this info, if not I will just send an email to Redding requesting it.
    I'm guessing the only major difference from SAAMI spec would be freebore and would have nothing to do with the die anyways just unsure of that.
    I ordered the type S match FL die set yesterday and am trying to get all of my ducks in a row to have a barrel spun up and chambered.

    Thanks in advance
    LOL
     
    Interesting. I think you will have to e mail redding. I have heard of a couple people sizing and measuring their brass until they find a die that matches their chamber well. I have never seen this question posed before. I think you will have to ask Redding, and I am not sure they will have an answer for you.
     
    Interesting. I think you will have to e mail redding. I have heard of a couple people sizing and measuring their brass until they find a die that matches their chamber well. I have never seen this question posed before. I think you will have to ask Redding, and I am not sure they will have an answer for you.

    So then the short answer is there isn't the wide variation as there is on some other calibers from different chambers to dies.
     
    So then the short answer is there isn't the wide variation as there is on some other calibers from different chambers to dies.
    All die makers use different specs, Whidden's tighter than Redding, Redding tighter than RCBS, doubt they will give you their specs even though it would be easy for a competitor to figure it out. Die reamers are smaller than chamber reamers.
     
    The Creedmoor, like the 6.5x47, has very nice body dimensions in saami form. There isn’t a machine gun/battle creedmoor chamber for example. Consequently, the dies for these cartridges usually work very well. I use a Hornady match set(I have others as well), and the tolerances are as good as my full custom dies. On the barrels I’ve chambered with my saami PT&G reamer, fl sizing in my Hornady die (with oneshot lube) is just about a one finger operation. In short, any quality die will work well, and I wouldn’t get wrapped around the axle on dimensions with the creedmoor.
     
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    All die makers use different specs, Whidden's tighter than Redding, Redding tighter than RCBS, doubt they will give you their specs even though it would be easy for a competitor to figure it out. Die reamers are smaller than chamber reamers.

    I understand that was possibly just over thinking the process I guess, maybe I could chalk this one up as a brain fart without any morning coffee.??
     
    The Creedmoor, like the 6.5x47, have very nice body dimensions in saami form. There isn’t a machine gun/battle creedmoor chamber for example. Consequently, the dies for these cartridges usually work very well. I use a Hornady match set(I have others as well), and the tolerances are as good as my full custom dies. On the barrels I’ve chambered with my saami PT&G reamer, fl sizing in my Hornady die (with oneshot lube) is just about a one finger operation. In short, any quality die will work well, and I wouldn’t get wrapped around the axle on dimensions with the creedmoor.

    Roger that,
    Step 1 ) Dont get to wrapped around the axle over dimensions
    Step 2) Consider starting to have coffee in the morning
    Step 3) Remove head from ASS
    LOL ?
     
    Ive tried contacting manufactures to get the specs on their dies, they wont give them out. Its proprietary they all claim. The only spec I could get out was the neck diameter from forster and I think thats only because they allow for reaming of the neck.
     
    Roger that,
    Step 1 ) Dont get to wrapped around the axle over dimensions
    Step 2) Consider starting to have coffee in the morning
    Step 3) Remove head from ASS
    LOL ?

    XLR, there's some truth there. But in reality, there CAN be some benefit to matching everything up. That having been said, you're going at it ass-back'ards.

    YOU get the brass YOU want to use, and the bullet to go with it. Buy enough brass to mean something. Like at least 1/3 to 1/4 of barrel life in new casings.

    YOU load a round where you believe it needs to be.

    YOU send it off to get it printed and a reamer cut for it...I recommend JGS.

    YOU get that print back, the reamer back, and the dummy round, and then YOU send the print out to Redding or whomever (Neil Jones, for example), and tell them what you need. Sizer..seater...multiple bushings...etc.

    YOU send off the reamer, barrel blank, and action, and get it spun up.

    And IDEALLY, before you had an expensive custom sizer cut, you'd fire a few pieces of brass 3-4 times apiece in the actual chamber, and THEN send THOSE off to the die maker.

    ...

    Going at it from the various company's shelf items and trying to get them to line up and dictate rifle decisions is not The Way.


    Note that I am specifically avoiding discussing whether you or your rifle or purpose can resolve the differences.

    -Nate
     
    XLR, there's some truth there. But in reality, there CAN be some benefit to matching everything up. That having been said, you're going at it ass-back'ards.

    YOU get the brass YOU want to use, and the bullet to go with it. Buy enough brass to mean something. Like at least 1/3 to 1/4 of barrel life in new casings.

    YOU load a round where you believe it needs to be.

    YOU send it off to get it printed and a reamer cut for it...I recommend JGS.

    YOU get that print back, the reamer back, and the dummy round, and then YOU send the print out to Redding or whomever (Neil Jones, for example), and tell them what you need. Sizer..seater...multiple bushings...etc.

    YOU send off the reamer, barrel blank, and action, and get it spun up.

    And IDEALLY, before you had an expensive custom sizer cut, you'd fire a few pieces of brass 3-4 times apiece in the actual chamber, and THEN send THOSE off to the die maker.

    ...

    Going at it from the various company's shelf items and trying to get them to line up and dictate rifle decisions is not The Way.


    Note that I am specifically avoiding discussing whether you or your rifle or purpose can resolve the differences.

    -Nate

    I've allready got the brass (200 Lapua cases) that should be enough to toast the first barrel easily. I have a box of 147eldm and am looking to get a box of the 150Smk to be able to set up some dummy rounds where I can measure base to ogive of these and compare to the Norma Match factory ammo I have and maybe a few others to find what will work best for me.
     
    Nothing will tell you what will work best for you except holes in paper. Take that to heart and think about it when you decide how to spend your time and money.

    Are you sure you want to run the 150 in a Creedmoor?
     
    Nothing will tell you what will work best for you except holes in paper. Take that to heart and think about it when you decide how to spend your time and money.

    Are you sure you want to run the 150 in a Creedmoor?

    I dont see why not, the Creedmoor should be more than enough to push the 150smk to 2650-2700 without running into pressure issues.
    The Bartlien 7.5 twist barrel I will be running should do just fine with them as well, and if I don't like what I see running the 150smk the 7.5 twist won't be giving up anything with the 130-147 grain bullets.

    I have never really cared for blistering speeds and don't chase velocity when I reload, if I want more speed I allready have a 26" 1-8 243win and a 300WM.
     
    Good deal.

    I just wonder whether the Creed can push the 150 fast enough to make it cut wind better than a 142, et al. I don't question the attempt though...I'm the guy running 90s in a 20" .223. Litz: "Friends don't let friends shoot .22s at 1,000 yards."

    Please keep everybody posted on what you find.
     
    Good deal.

    I just wonder whether the Creed can push the 150 fast enough to make it cut wind better than a 142, et al. I don't question the attempt though...I'm the guy running 90s in a 20" .223. Litz: "Friends don't let friends shoot .22s at 1,000 yards."

    Please keep everybody posted on what you find.

    I certainly will, I don't mind going a different direction than the herd since that is the best way to find a better path forward or possibly back track you never know.
    Being different isn't a bad thing if it were I would probably have to try and remember where I put my feelings so I could get offended every now and then.

    On a side note I just did some more looking around on other forums as more data is starting to come in for the 150smk and Frank of Bartlien barrels is reporting that he's getting 2700fps with the 150 from a 23" Creedmoor around .5 MOA. I don't think I'm chasing my tail here at all.
     
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