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Ruger Precision Rifle Discussion

I’m switching my Lapua brass to be shot out of my Havak. I have Hornady brass I’m going to load up for the RPR. Anyone using 140 eld with H4350 and Hornady brass? What’s your charge weight? Previously it liked 43.1 with Lapua brass but I know there is some volume differences between the two. Might also be trying some MR-2000 to try to squeeze some extra speed out of the 17” bbl.

I’m using Prime/Norma brass with the 140 ELDm and 4350. Currently having good luck with 42.2 gr. Hope that helps.
 
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Sin Arms warning
I sent a bolt in for work a month ago and have tried to contact them with no success. Looks like I should have done more research on them. FYI for you.

Update on Sin Arms- they sent me a note today that they were out hunting and will have my bold done today and mailed.

Update on Sin Arms, Ruger Precision bolt was returned by Sin Arms, as promised, excellent work on the fluting and with the microslick the bolt is very smooth in the receiver. Well done and I am very pleased with the work. If you are interested, might check with them first on turnaround time. Facebook page was what i got through to them on.
 
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There’s a dude over on rugerforum.net who has a buddy who works for Ruger in NH who confirmed he was firing a .338 RPR. Said it was loud as fuck. Can’t wait to see that thing hit the shelves
 
Loose bolt shroud Gen 3 RPR 6.5CM
My RPR has seen approximately 60 rounds and the bolt shroud is very loose. I disassembled it and reinstalled it and it’s still loose. I contacted the Ruger USA and they referred me to their Repair center in Canada (where I am). The repair center responded saying that it was normal.

It was not loose when I purchased the rifle. Ha anyone else had this problem? Ia this a problem? How is it remedied?
 
My gen 2 was crazy loose. I worked at the GS I bought from and check them all. All loose. I bought an LRI shroud and all is well now.
 
Can anyone compare the LRI shroud to the Anarchy Outdoors titanium shroud? Also does AO muzzle brake offer any advantages over the Ruger factory?

I have an LRI shroud and it’s fine for me. But I haven’t tried a titanium shroud, which a lot of people say is smoother
 
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Well, would you look at that!
 
Have a question for the 6mm CR shooters that are using Factory Hornady 108 ELD-M ammo. Went to the range yesterday and had 40 rounds on the RPR barrel prior to this trip. The problem was the 108's were hard to close the bolt and upon examination they are marking the bullet in the ogive area. So my question is. Is this normal for the 108's, or do you think the free bore is too tight. The factory Hornady's measured are 2.792 on average.
 
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Have a question for the 6mm CR shooters that are using Factory Hornady 108 ELD-M ammo. Went to the range yesterday and had 40 rounds on the RPR barrel prior to this trip. The problem was the 108's were hard to close the bolt and upon examination they are marking the bullet in the ogive area. So my question is. Is this normal for the 108's, or do you think the free bore is too tight. The factory Hornady's measured are 2.792 on average.
http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/rpr-6mm-creedmoor-freebore.3930200/
 
What case is that, did you get it custom, or did you do the foam cutting?

RTIC case. I laid everything out and traced the inside edges with a chalk pen. Then used an electric craving knife and a scalpel to cut it out. Then sprayed it with plasti dip. I was pretty pleased.
 
Has anyone put the rail on their handguard to have a full length dovetail system for bipods etc? I know Sawtooth Rifles makes one for the RPR. Anyone have experience with these or recommendations?
 
Has anyone put the rail on their handguard to have a full length dovetail system for bipods etc? I know Sawtooth Rifles makes one for the RPR. Anyone have experience with these or recommendations?
Sawtooths are very nice. A touch heavy but hey, who cares lol
 

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Thanks! I also wasn’t sure because Sawtooth says they have them for the gen 1 & 2 but says they’re both keymod. I thought gen 2 was m-lok which is what I have. Too many stupid generations! Wonder if it’ll still work with some modification
 
It might be worth looking at the Area419 ARCALOCK rail. The price is the same as the Sawtooth rail but it allows use of ARCALOCK accessories while still maintaining compatibility with ARCA/RRS accessories. It doesn't look like it goes as far back as the Sawtooth however.

http://www.area419.com/product/alk-mlok12/
 
With the new mlok Rail you can use any of the mlok offerings from area 419 And what not. Gen 2 is the top rail-less keymod handguard. I could have swore I saw the latest mlok variant on their Facebook tho
 
Gotcha, I’ll look further and see what I find. I do like all the stuff 419 has been putting out so I don’t think one could go wrong there. Thanks guys!
 
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Are offset handguards and scope rail mounting holes still a thing or has Ruger tightened down on the QC?
 
So added a clip on to my rig. Hopefully take it for a spin next week.
 

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How does your PVA barrel shoot?

Half minute all day long, I feel like there is still a ways to go before I get my loads right.i did shoot a .299” group last weekend with Hornady brass chi br2 primer and 41.6 grains of H4350 sd 7 Ed 19. Josh and the guys over there have been super helpful working me through my development, that’s for sure!!! I give it two thumbs up.
 
Half minute all day long, I feel like there is still a ways to go before I get my loads right.i did shoot a .299” group last weekend with Hornady brass chi br2 primer and 41.6 grains of H4350 sd 7 Ed 19. Josh and the guys over there have been super helpful working me through my development, that’s for sure!!! I give it two thumbs up.
I'm seriously debating between the pva barrel and proof barrel. I'm still on my stock barrel but I'm quickly approaching the end of it's barrel life.

What bullet are you shooting?
 
I'm seriously debating between the pva barrel and proof barrel. I'm still on my stock barrel but I'm quickly approaching the end of it's barrel life.

What bullet are you shooting?
What is your round count on your factory barrel? I was thinking about getting a proof carbon barrel as well. Trying to determine is the carbon really worth it or just go with one of their regular barrels.
 
I've been seriously considering Proof's carbon fiber barrel for my RPR and investigating it for about a year now trying to determine if is "really worth it" or not. And I find that the answer is like with most things. . . it depends on what's on you shopping list that defines "worth". I've finally come to the conclusion, that for me, it's not. And I can see that for other's, it very well could be.

Here's why I've decided not to go with Proof's carbon fiber barrel:

First and foremost, one of the main issues that was very important for me is that I was hoping a carbon fiber barrel would solve or help with the issue of keeping the barrel cool as I use it in the triple digit heat of Arizona's summers. It's often reported that this carbon fiber works well in dissipating heat faster that a steel barrel leaving the barrel just warm to the touch. But in deeper analysis, I find that a steel barrel wrapped in carbon fiber (+ the resin being a key element) actually doesn't dissipate the heat as one might think. In fact the carbon fiber wrapper around the steel acts more like an insulator keeping the heat from quickly dissipating from within. Retaining heat like this, seems to me, would tend to accelerate barrel wear to some degree. One of the positive things this insulating effect the carbon fiber wrapping has, is that it would tend to reduce mirage coming off the barrel. Because the carbon fiber barrel has more rigidity that a steel barrel of the same length, am not sure how this might mitigate the affects of high inside barrel heat for accuracy. I ask myself, if carbon fiber is so great with regards to heat dissipation, then why don't we see a clamor for them to be put on automatic weapon systems . . .??? So, because the heat issue is such a big deal for me, the carbon fiber barrel doesn't do what I thought it would do.

The two positive attributes that really stand out to me for a carbon fiber barrel is it's lighter in weight and it's stiffness. I like the stiffness, but not the lighter weight as I have a .308 RPR and a lighter weight barrel is only going to make it harder with the recoil to view impacts down range for long distances. As just a hunter, I'd like the lighter weight and the heat issue would really be non-existent a hunting rifle and with the cool look I'd likely go with it. But I don't use my RPR for hunting, but only for target shooting. And for my target shooting, a heavier barrel will actually help me out rather than being a hindrance.

I do feel the Proof Research's carbon fiber barrel looks really cool. Hmmm??? But, is that "cool" worth an extra $450? For some people, I'm sure it is. . . but not me.

So, based on what I've gathered, I feel the Proof Research carbon fiber barrels can be well worth it . . . . depending on what kind of shooting one does. Or just get it because of the "Cool" factor. ;)
 
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Looking at different rifles and keep coming back to this one. The one thing I keep looking at is a shorter barrel. Would like a shorter, 16-18" barrel, unsure of caliber as I keep going back and forth between the 308 and 6.5 creed. The shorter barrel is due to tighter shooting areas and the addition of a 7" thunder beast at the end.

Wondering if there is a market for the stock barrel or if it is easier to just chop and thread
 
I'm seriously debating between the pva barrel and proof barrel. I'm still on my stock barrel but I'm quickly approaching the end of it's barrel life.

What bullet are you shooting?

I had been shootings the 142 smk. My last trip out I shot a 260 that was running the 123 scenars so I am testing that next trip out. The 123 in the 260 had way less recoil so I am going and originally I built the 6.5 creedmoor for light recoil shooting. I’ll keep the thread posted on the results.
 
So I’ve noticed with my RPR308 that cold is always 1inch low and .25 to the left of any round after that. Is that not a good bit of movement from cold to hot? Newby here so no lynching please.
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So I’ve noticed with my RPR308 that cold is always 1inch low and .25 to the left of any round after that. Is that not a good bit of movement from cold to hot? Newby here so no lynching please. View attachment 6958931

My .308 cold bore strikes just about the same spot. Whether short or long range, I just adjust by holding over for my cold bore, and then use my normal POA after that.
 
My .308 cold bore strikes just about the same spot. Whether short or long range, I just adjust by holding over for my cold bore, and then use my normal POA after that.
I was just reading on the topic of cold bore vs. cold shooter. Personally I think there is a lot more to be said for cold shooter. Last two times I went to the range I started on my 45/70. Shooting my RPR suppressed was like shooting a pellet rifle after that. Anymore when I first show up to the range I do some dry firing. Focus on trigger squeeze and breathing. My cold bore shot is near non-exisitent.
 
I was just reading on the topic of cold bore vs. cold shooter. Personally I think there is a lot more to be said for cold shooter. Last two times I went to the range I started on my 45/70. Shooting my RPR suppressed was like shooting a pellet rifle after that. Anymore when I first show up to the range I do some dry firing. Focus on trigger squeeze and breathing. My cold bore shot is near non-exisitent.
Same here. If I dry fire 5-10 times before firing first round I don’t see a “cold bore shift”. If it’s a real thing more than likely your rifle will keep stringing away from the cold bore the hotter it gets.
 
What is your round count on your factory barrel? I was thinking about getting a proof carbon barrel as well. Trying to determine is the carbon really worth it or just go with one of their regular barrels.
I'm about 1500 rounds on stock barrel. And if I do go with proof I'm going to go with steel barrel. My rpr is already a tank I'm not trying or needing to lighten it up. Carbon fiber looks sweet but I'm honestly just going for better accuracy than the stock barrel.