I am looking for recommendations on building a hunting rifle that I could take to a range occasionally. As far as hunting, Large game such as deer to elk. I am new to this sport and want to collect parts for my build, any help would be appreciated.
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Create a channel Learn moreNew to long distance precision shooting, and new to building or collecting parts for a BA, Otherwise 40 plus years of practical shooting and hunting. Budget is flexible, but want to do as cheaply as possible, as It won't get used too much. I would like to keep it light so I can put a really good scope on it.New to shooting? New to hunting? or New to longer range shooting? First thought is hunt Elk with 30-06, 280REM or 270WIN at least, but that's not what you asked so 308. 308 because longer barrel life otherwise its relatively similar to 6.5CM. Can you get better shooting SS barrel for less money that CF? Then go SS. Yes you want a quality stock, I have several HS precision and a couple Bell & Carlson which are nice because of drop in aluminum bedding block. But definitely some quality stock as Mcmillan or such. Do you want a porter profile stock or a more tactical type?
Could grab a barreled action from PVA, they have Origin and Nucleus barreled actions. Then grab your trigger of choice and stock of choice.
Check the PX here on the hide can usually find some solid deals on barreled actions, actions, and full guns.
I've got a triggertech diamond pro curve coming.Could grab a barreled action from PVA, they have Origin and Nucleus barreled actions. Then grab your trigger of choice and stock of choice.
Check the PX here on the hide can usually find some solid deals on barreled actions, actions, and full guns.
That's a great choice for a triggerI've got a triggertech diamond pro curve coming.
This is about exactly what I had in mind. What did it cost to put this together?I recently built a 6.5 for hunting, but wanted it to feel like my match gun. So the turrets and Manners stock add a bit of weight.
Honestly it seems people don’t always include everything like scope caps, sling, brake and bipods when talking about the weight of their hunting ring. Most turreted scopes, rings, bases, caps, bipods and slings add about 3-4 lbs to a base rifle.
This one is about 12 lbs with bipod — everything.
View attachment 6996228
I used a Proof because it actually can double as a field gun for a match if the hiking is long. A Bartlien steel barrel can weigh less than my 22” proof but it is not as stable in a match type seating.
I could have saved a couple lbs by going 100% hunting, but I just don’t shoot as well or feel as comfortable as something in a similar footprint that I use thousands of rounds a year with
You are right about shooting deer, any caliber gun off the shelf will take a deer in Minnesota. I want to be open to 600 yard shots. Part of the fun for me is collecting the parts for a build, otherwise I would just take my barreled action out my MPA BA lite chassis, and put it in a manners or McMillan stock to shed a few pounds. That would work and save me money being that my barrel is already 22". I just can't bring myself to tear down a perfectly good shooting MPA built gun apart. I also want either stainless steel or carbon fiber for the finish. Tough decision.The ammo you need is available for PRC, and I would suspect more varieties will come up shortly.
I think hunting rifle needs to be qualified a bit, here in MN a hunting rifle needs to shoot 100 yards. Minute of pie plate is plenty. Are you going to be stalking elk in timber? Are you going to be shooting from ridge to ridge? what do you consider your max range?
If your primary objective for the rifle is elk at any distance I would up your caliber. 6.5 PRC, 300 WSM, 7 SAUM, etc. If the rifle is intended towards typically shorter distance deer hunting with an outside chance of an elk hunt, I would say the previous recommendations of Creedmore and 308 are spot on.
Do you handload?
I went through the exact same deal and I ended up ordering a GAP non typical. The idea of chasing down components and finding the perfect items really didn't sit well with me. Additionally, when I considered the cost of a custom action (which I wanted to avoid building up a quality rifle on a shit action scabbed from somewhere) the GAP didn't seem that expensive. I made a call, Ken spent the time with me to make sure I was ordering what I wanted and I'm now in the ever present wait list for the rifle.
I recently built a 6.5 for hunting, but wanted it to feel like my match gun. So the turrets and Manners stock add a bit of weight.
Honestly it seems people don’t always include everything like scope caps, sling, brake and bipods when talking about the weight of their hunting ring. Most turreted scopes, rings, bases, caps, bipods and slings add about 3-4 lbs to a base rifle.
This one is about 12 lbs with bipod — everything.
View attachment 6996228
I used a Proof because it actually can double as a field gun for a match if the hiking is long. A Bartlien steel barrel can weigh less than my 22” proof but it is not as stable in a match type seating.
I could have saved a couple lbs by going 100% hunting, but I just don’t shoot as well or feel as comfortable as something in a similar footprint that I use thousands of rounds a year with
I wouldn't think twice about shooting Elk with a 6.5 Creed. I wonder how many Elk a 30/30 has killed.
Early settlers also killed Grizzlys with pumpkin balls. Doesnt make it a good choice. I like my 6.5-284 Norma. But i feel its on the edge of being an elk gun. Yeah, itll kill it, but id prefer a 7mm/30 caliber.
Shoot idk everything on all our rifles is pricy. I’ll put a list together tomorrow.This is about exactly what I had in mind. What did it cost to put this together?
Shoot idk everything on all our rifles is pricy. I’ll put a list together tomorrow.
Btw the Spartan carbon bipods are really stable and pop on and off with a magnet. Makes off hand shooting a bit easier and indeed of weighing about a lbs they are about 5oz. I also have one but under the Leupold brand name on my 7mm. Those can be found a bit cheaper and come with a better podloc like handle for the cant lock.
You can put them in with pan (but low tension) or flip them 180 to lock out the pan (that’s how run them). With the cant lock facing the back towards the shooter.5 oz. I am checking them out right now. Thanks.
You can put them in with pan (but low tension) or flip them 180 to lock out the pan (that’s how run them). With the cant lock facing the back towards the shooter.
I can't personally say that from experience, but I have heard similar. The 308 packs a punch!I was leaning towards a 308 @ 600 yards or less for a clean ethical shot, but some have said that the energy of 308 at that distance does a lot of damage. Is this true? I have never taken any game over 100 yards.
Looks great! Which stock and barrel contour is this?Good looking build, i like that pattern! View attachment 6996384
Looks great! Which stock and barrel contour is this?
Awesome combo. Many thanks.MCS-TA Proof sendero(manners calls is proof medium)
Best choice they had. I kill Elk almost every year. My 6.5 Creed makes them just as dead as the 30/06 i used when i was a kid, just as dead as the .308 i used for years, and just as dead as my buddy makes them with his 243 Win. Your argument is retarded. A 6.5 bullet makes into the vitals just like a 30 and 7mm. Anyone who said different is wrong.
What kind of tripod is that?I recently built a 6.5 for hunting, but wanted it to feel like my match gun. So the turrets and Manners stock add a bit of weight.
Honestly it seems people don’t always include everything like scope caps, sling, brake and bipods when talking about the weight of their hunting ring. Most turreted scopes, rings, bases, caps, bipods and slings add about 3-4 lbs to a base rifle.
This one is about 12 lbs with bipod, sling, mag, scope caps, full length arca rail— everything.
View attachment 6996228
I used a Proof because it actually can double as a field gun for a match if the hiking is long. A Bartlien steel barrel can weigh less than my 22” proof but it is not as stable in a match type setting.
I could have saved a couple lbs by going 100% hunting and a SS penciled barrel, but I just don’t shoot as well or feel as comfortable as something in a similar footprint that I use thousands of rounds a year with
243 as an elk gun, hilarious. Thats just careless. I could kill one with a 223. But should I? No. There are better options. Any time someone questions the 6.5 CM, you get heated. Lol its funny.
Its good from mice to moose. We get it.
I have plenty of rifles to do the job including 7mm mag and 300 wm. I want a custom in a medium caliber.I know that I'm coming in late to the discussion but if you haven't bought your action yet, I would seriously consider a Tikka CTR. I bought one last year and with the $10. yo dave trigger spring, I have a rifle that will shoot 1/2 moa (or slightly less) with reloads and one brand of factory ammo. (The factory ammo isn't very consistent in the velocity department so I don't use it for long range but it does shoot 1/2 moa out to 300 yards). The bottom line is that in my opinion the Tikka is a great option for getting started in long range work as it is great out of the box and you can upgrade the stock as needed and money allows which will leave you more $ to spend on good glass. There are a lot of options for 'drop in' bolt handles if you want to play with those and plenty of aftermarket stocks and barrels if you want sub 1/2 moa accuracy. My brother has a custom long range rifle and I can compete with him in the accuracy department with a rifle that is 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of his. Just my 2 cents.
Got it. I guess I locked in to "want to do it as cheaply as possible" as opposed to needed to be a custom action. Sounds like a fun project!I have plenty of rifles to do the job including 7mm mag and 300 wm. I want a custom in a medium caliber.
With their magnet attachment, I would just carry it in my pocket. Thats really great concept.
What kind of tripod is that?
Some guys say that a 6.5 will punch a small hole in the animal, and they will run forever, and a 308 will leave a large exit hole. I wanted to hear from people with real life experience about taking large game at longer distances to clear this up. I like the fact that 308 comes in more varieties and is more available, but drops faster than a 6.5. So I am up against the fence! To make things worse, I have been reading about the 6.5 prc, that sounds good! What to do?