I am looking for recommendations on building a hunting rifle that I could take to a range occasionally. As far as hunting, Large game such as deer to elk. I am new to this sport and want to collect parts for my build, any help would be appreciated.
Need advice on a build for a hunting rifle 6.5 cm or 308 carbon fiber or stainless steel barrel & and a good stock McMillan or similar?
- Thread starter Kawi
- Start date
New to shooting? New to hunting? or New to longer range shooting? First thought is hunt Elk with 30-06, 280REM or 270WIN at least, but that's not what you asked so 308. 308 because longer barrel life otherwise its relatively similar to 6.5CM. Can you get better shooting SS barrel for less money that CF? Then go SS. Yes you want a quality stock, I have several HS precision and a couple Bell & Carlson which are nice because of drop in aluminum bedding block. But definitely some quality stock as Mcmillan or such. Do you want a sporter profile stock or a more tactical type?
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New to long distance precision shooting, and new to building or collecting parts for a BA, Otherwise 40 plus years of practical shooting and hunting. Budget is flexible, but want to do as cheaply as possible, as It won't get used too much. I would like to keep it light so I can put a really good scope on it.
I want to start out with a good action like a Impact precision, or Curtis, defiant, origin, etc.
How about stocks?
Could grab a barreled action from PVA, they have Origin and Nucleus barreled actions. Then grab your trigger of choice and stock of choice.
Check the PX here on the hide can usually find some solid deals on barreled actions, actions, and full guns.
Check the PX here on the hide can usually find some solid deals on barreled actions, actions, and full guns.
What grip/hand position do you prefer for this build ? , traditional angled ( hunter ) or more of a straight vertical grip ?.
Would a chassis be an option ? .
Would a chassis be an option ? .
Curtis axiom
I would 100% do a 7mm08 or 308 if Elk is a common thing. I know the CM is loved now but while fine for deer it’s marginal at much distance for elk IMO. 7-08 AI is a sweet little round. If you’re willing to go to a short mag it opens up even more options like 7 saum/wsm etc.
From your description I would do a sporter/magnum sporter steel barrel and save the money over carbon
I would 100% do a 7mm08 or 308 if Elk is a common thing. I know the CM is loved now but while fine for deer it’s marginal at much distance for elk IMO. 7-08 AI is a sweet little round. If you’re willing to go to a short mag it opens up even more options like 7 saum/wsm etc.
From your description I would do a sporter/magnum sporter steel barrel and save the money over carbon
I recently built a 6.5 for hunting, but wanted it to feel like my match gun. So the turrets and Manners stock add a bit of weight.
Honestly it seems people don’t always include everything like scope caps, sling, brake and bipods when talking about the weight of their hunting ring. Most turreted scopes, rings, bases, caps, bipods and slings add about 3-4 lbs to a base rifle.
This one is about 12 lbs with bipod, sling, mag, scope caps, full length arca rail— everything.
I used a Proof because it actually can double as a field gun for a match if the hiking is long. A Bartlien steel barrel can weigh less than my 22” proof but it is not as stable in a match type setting.
I could have saved a couple lbs by going 100% hunting and a SS penciled barrel, but I just don’t shoot as well or feel as comfortable as something in a similar footprint that I use thousands of rounds a year with
Honestly it seems people don’t always include everything like scope caps, sling, brake and bipods when talking about the weight of their hunting ring. Most turreted scopes, rings, bases, caps, bipods and slings add about 3-4 lbs to a base rifle.
This one is about 12 lbs with bipod, sling, mag, scope caps, full length arca rail— everything.
I used a Proof because it actually can double as a field gun for a match if the hiking is long. A Bartlien steel barrel can weigh less than my 22” proof but it is not as stable in a match type setting.
I could have saved a couple lbs by going 100% hunting and a SS penciled barrel, but I just don’t shoot as well or feel as comfortable as something in a similar footprint that I use thousands of rounds a year with
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Interesting question, limiting the choice for a hunting rig to 6.5 CM or .308 Win - if you're thinking large bodied game, the .308 is a better choice in my mind. That said, if you're thinking long range hunting, you can make the argument for 6.5 CM - the energy will equal out on the two at distance and actually being able to make the shot favors the 6.5. If you've got the gun, the skill and the patience to make broadside/head/neck shots on Elk at distance, the caliber is less important. Generally, I'm with @VP47PPC on this. If you've already got a range rig you like, why not make a "cousin" - same stock, same weight (as near as you can manage), but step the caliber up to something a bit more serious (lots of choices on the -06 case).
This is about exactly what I had in mind. What did it cost to put this together?
I would be tempted to build a 6.5 prc, but there's not a lot of ammo out there yet.
The ammo you need is available for PRC, and I would suspect more varieties will come up shortly.
I think hunting rifle needs to be qualified a bit, here in MN a hunting rifle needs to shoot 100 yards. Minute of pie plate is plenty. Are you going to be stalking elk in timber? Are you going to be shooting from ridge to ridge? what do you consider your max range?
If your primary objective for the rifle is elk at any distance I would up your caliber. 6.5 PRC, 300 WSM, 7 SAUM, etc. If the rifle is intended towards typically shorter distance deer hunting with an outside chance of an elk hunt, I would say the previous recommendations of Creedmore and 308 are spot on.
Do you handload?
I went through the exact same deal and I ended up ordering a GAP non typical. The idea of chasing down components and finding the perfect items really didn't sit well with me. Additionally, when I considered the cost of a custom action (which I wanted to avoid building up a quality rifle on a shit action scabbed from somewhere) the GAP didn't seem that expensive. I made a call, Ken spent the time with me to make sure I was ordering what I wanted and I'm now in the ever present wait list for the rifle.
I think hunting rifle needs to be qualified a bit, here in MN a hunting rifle needs to shoot 100 yards. Minute of pie plate is plenty. Are you going to be stalking elk in timber? Are you going to be shooting from ridge to ridge? what do you consider your max range?
If your primary objective for the rifle is elk at any distance I would up your caliber. 6.5 PRC, 300 WSM, 7 SAUM, etc. If the rifle is intended towards typically shorter distance deer hunting with an outside chance of an elk hunt, I would say the previous recommendations of Creedmore and 308 are spot on.
Do you handload?
I went through the exact same deal and I ended up ordering a GAP non typical. The idea of chasing down components and finding the perfect items really didn't sit well with me. Additionally, when I considered the cost of a custom action (which I wanted to avoid building up a quality rifle on a shit action scabbed from somewhere) the GAP didn't seem that expensive. I made a call, Ken spent the time with me to make sure I was ordering what I wanted and I'm now in the ever present wait list for the rifle.
You are right about shooting deer, any caliber gun off the shelf will take a deer in Minnesota. I want to be open to 600 yard shots. Part of the fun for me is collecting the parts for a build, otherwise I would just take my barreled action out my MPA BA lite chassis, and put it in a manners or McMillan stock to shed a few pounds. That would work and save me money being that my barrel is already 22". I just can't bring myself to tear down a perfectly good shooting MPA built gun apart. I also want either stainless steel or carbon fiber for the finish. Tough decision.
If that tickles your fancy by all means go the route. I was only trying to explain my reasoning by going that route. I don't enjoy chasing components so my decision was guided by that.
600 yards is a long ways on game. I chose the 6.5 PRC to do exactly what you want to do over the creedmore. I handload so the equation is a bit different, but I still chose the PRC over the SAUM because of the factory offerings. 300 WSM might be a good option for you as well of your looking for off the shelf ammo.
I have no first hand on game experience, I am only going by what people are saying. I didn't want a boomer and I didn't want a caliber that couldn't take an elk at distance. the PRC seemed to fit the bill as a reasonable middle ground.
600 yards is a long ways on game. I chose the 6.5 PRC to do exactly what you want to do over the creedmore. I handload so the equation is a bit different, but I still chose the PRC over the SAUM because of the factory offerings. 300 WSM might be a good option for you as well of your looking for off the shelf ammo.
I have no first hand on game experience, I am only going by what people are saying. I didn't want a boomer and I didn't want a caliber that couldn't take an elk at distance. the PRC seemed to fit the bill as a reasonable middle ground.
Good looking build, i like that pattern! 
I have a similar build as Diver and the others.
22" 7.5tw 6.5 Creedmoor on a Stiller Tac30 in a Manners PRS2 with a barricade mini- chassis.
12.5lbs as is but might try and lighten it up a little bit more if I hunt this year. I also have an extra 6.5cm barrel (24" rem/varm. Bartlein) to save some life of the proof and it adds an additional 2lb.
22" 7.5tw 6.5 Creedmoor on a Stiller Tac30 in a Manners PRS2 with a barricade mini- chassis.
12.5lbs as is but might try and lighten it up a little bit more if I hunt this year. I also have an extra 6.5cm barrel (24" rem/varm. Bartlein) to save some life of the proof and it adds an additional 2lb.
Early settlers also killed Grizzlys with pumpkin balls. Doesnt make it a good choice. I like my 6.5-284 Norma. But i feel its on the edge of being an elk gun. Yeah, itll kill it, but id prefer a 7mm/30 caliber.
Best choice they had. I kill Elk almost every year. My 6.5 Creed makes them just as dead as the 30/06 i used when i was a kid, just as dead as the .308 i used for years, and just as dead as my buddy makes them with his 243 Win. Your argument is retarded. A 6.5 bullet makes into the vitals just like a 30 and 7mm. Anyone who said different is wrong.
Shoot idk everything on all our rifles is pricy. I’ll put a list together tomorrow.
Btw the Spartan carbon bipods are really stable and pop on and off with a magnet. Makes off hand shooting a bit easier and indeed of weighing about a lbs they are about 5oz.
https://javelinbipod.com/collections/bipods
I also have one but under the Leupold brand name on my 7mm. Those can be found a bit cheaper and come with a better podloc like handle for the cant lock.
You can put them in with pan (but low tension) or flip them 180 to lock out the pan (that’s how run them). With the cant lock facing the back towards the shooter.5 oz.
With their magnet attachment, I would just carry it in my pocket. Thats really great concept.
I’m not gonna play the 6.5 for elk ring around the rosy Ive said how I feel about it. I will mention op should highly consider where they want to hunt elk. In some states it is not legal, as they have a .277 minimum.
I'll leave a couple references here for consumption and assessment. They come from www.ballisticstudies.com - a website that many here are likely familiar with. If not, take a look at the first link and it will give you a good idea for Nathan Foster's thoughts on game killing. The second link is his assessment of the 6.5 Swede and 6.5mm bore in general.
1. https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/Effective+Game+Killing.html
2. https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/6.5x55.html
Yes, it's a lot of reading (if you do it). However, reading the 1st link will tell you how close Mr. Foster's philosophy is to your own and that provides context for understanding his discussion on the 6.5 bore contained within the 6.5 Swede link.
It's worth noting for the group that won't read that much that Mr. Foster considers the 6.5 bore marginal for use on Elk sized game and unforgiving of shot placement errors (e.g. rear lung shot). Its "failures" in the field are one of the things that inspired him to begin his research. Mr. Foster is perhaps unforgiving of cartridges in comparison to many American hunters - his standard for performance is DRT.
1. https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/Effective+Game+Killing.html
2. https://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/6.5x55.html
Yes, it's a lot of reading (if you do it). However, reading the 1st link will tell you how close Mr. Foster's philosophy is to your own and that provides context for understanding his discussion on the 6.5 bore contained within the 6.5 Swede link.
It's worth noting for the group that won't read that much that Mr. Foster considers the 6.5 bore marginal for use on Elk sized game and unforgiving of shot placement errors (e.g. rear lung shot). Its "failures" in the field are one of the things that inspired him to begin his research. Mr. Foster is perhaps unforgiving of cartridges in comparison to many American hunters - his standard for performance is DRT.
I can't personally say that from experience, but I have heard similar. The 308 packs a punch!
Without high BC bullets 308 is not gonna have much juice left at 600 yards. Many consider 1500 ft lbs minimum energy for elk.As an example load Hornady precision hunter 178gr@2600 is a high BC bullet for 308 and crosses that threshold around 425- 450 yards.
IMO for elk@ 600 yards you should be looking at a long action cartridge or a short magnum. Deer will be more forgiving energy wise.
IMO for elk@ 600 yards you should be looking at a long action cartridge or a short magnum. Deer will be more forgiving energy wise.
Some guys say that a 6.5 will punch a small hole in the animal, and they will run forever, and a 308 will leave a large exit hole. I wanted to hear from people with real life experience about taking large game at longer distances to clear this up. I like the fact that 308 comes in more varieties and is more available, but drops faster than a 6.5. So I am up against the fence! To make things worse, I have been reading about the 6.5 prc, that sounds good! What to do?
I would suggest heading over to longrange hunting there is a ton of info and pictures on game on these exact questions.
Thanks, I will check that out.
Looks great! Which stock and barrel contour is this?Good looking build, i like that pattern!
MCS-TA Proof sendero(manners calls is proof medium)
Awesome combo. Many thanks.
243 as an elk gun, hilarious. Thats just careless. I could kill one with a 223. But should I? No. There are better options. Any time someone questions the 6.5 CM, you get heated. Lol its funny.
Its good from mice to moose. We get it.
I killed a buck at 600yds and I saw a dude shoot a doe at 1100 both with 105hybrid and 115dtacs respectively. They were both DRT, but I won’t do it again most likely. Small cartridge 6.5 for deer (x47, CM), mag 6.5-7 for either (PRC, Saum), and 30cal mag all day if your hunting elk all the time.
I could have just as easily been on 2-4” and wounded him.
This is just my opinion so take it for what it’s worth.
I could have just as easily been on 2-4” and wounded him.
This is just my opinion so take it for what it’s worth.
I know that I'm coming in late to the discussion but if you haven't bought your action yet, I would seriously consider a Tikka CTR. I bought one last year and with the $10. yo dave trigger spring, I have a rifle that will shoot 1/2 moa (or slightly less) with reloads and one brand of factory ammo. (The factory ammo isn't very consistent in the velocity department so I don't use it for long range but it does shoot 1/2 moa out to 300 yards). The bottom line is that in my opinion the Tikka is a great option for getting started in long range work as it is great out of the box and you can upgrade the stock as needed and money allows which will leave you more $ to spend on good glass. There are a lot of options for 'drop in' bolt handles if you want to play with those and plenty of aftermarket stocks and barrels if you want sub 1/2 moa accuracy. My brother has a custom long range rifle and I can compete with him in the accuracy department with a rifle that is 1/2 to 1/3 the cost of his. Just my 2 cents.
What kind of tripod is that?
No, when people say something retarded I tell them. Quit pretending to be the authority on what an "elk rifle" {in my best Fud voice} is. I would rather hit them with a 243 with a partition or bondded bullet than a 30/30 any day, but thats just because of what I have seen. I mean I didn't read it on the internet, so my real life experience could be bull shit.
. I don't have any experience with moose, so I can't say. People I know who have killed both, put Moose and Elk in two different leagues.
I am the defender of the 6.5 Creedmoor.
Thats just full retard. Grandpa swore his 30/40 Kraig killed them faster than anything, after years of using a 30/30. I bet the only difference was how well he shot one over the other. He never shot targets. A couple shots per year hunting was all he took.
Do you have any other placeholder for something you dislike other than it being retarded? After the 50th time it seems a bit pathetic.
I have plenty of rifles to do the job including 7mm mag and 300 wm. I want a custom in a medium caliber.
Got it. I guess I locked in to "want to do it as cheaply as possible" as opposed to needed to be a custom action. Sounds like a fun project!
I like it too because it is a
Really Right Stuff Anvil 30
You can read a bit more info on a comparison thread I did a while back. https://www.snipershide.com/shootin...-tvc-33-feisol-3372-anvil-30-comment.6570549/
Here was the build list: You can save weight by using a #2 Bartlien, Hunter stock and low rings with a smaller scope, but then they are not fun to shoot in other settings
Some other considerations that put the odds in your favor are;
#1 how little wind drift a projectile gives compared another. A good comparison would be comparing a 168 grain 30 cal to a 168 grain 7mm. It's significant!
#2 how fast is a projectile going when it gets to the animal. Guess which bullet above will arrive sooner and with more energy - with less wind drift.
High BC going fast = Less windage needed and potentially more energy to drive through to the vitals. Two of the most overlooked aspects of success at distance.
Nobody is perfect at reading wind or can place a perfect shot all the time. A little extra help can make a big difference.
Last month a friend shot a Coues whitetail at 580Y in what seemed like calm conditions with his 6.5-4s. 143's at 3007 fps. He hit it just barely off the chest, right where it meets the gut, because there was an undetectable slight wind between him and the deer that pushed the bullet 5" off POA. The second shot finished it. His was a spike not much bigger than a German Sheppard. Had he been shooting a 308 the result would have been a gut shot closer the back leg or in the hip.
When I shoot my 308 with 155's in 10 mph-ish winds it's not easy hitting a 10" plate at 675Y. With my 6.5 Saum, 140 hybrids at 3175 fps, it's not hard keeping them on the plate. Chances are I'll make a cold bore hit with the 6.5, chances are I'll hit left or right with the 308.
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