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Tikka T3 Thread

Who needs Whiskey:cool:.
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Just posted it in another thread so may as well throw it up here too.
T3X CTR 6.5CM 24”
Sphur + DMR2 3.5-21x50
Custom Wombat Ordnance AI chassis, I have modified to suit newer style AI skins & forend flush cups. All the victor co. add ons, grippy cheek rest etc.
Sterk bolt handle, hss shroud.
Badger mini FTE brake
Sako TRG bipod using an adaptor I made up
ARC 10rnd mags

Loves 140rdf’s, is a tack driver like all my tikkas.
I’ll buy an AI AT one day and put this setup on my .223 T3 Varmint
AD1ED5A4-D4BD-47AC-A394-DBAD723C5825.jpeg
AB165BCF-6D4A-439F-8B59-C9F1D5981711.jpeg
B3D40151-0B05-4978-A60E-E197DACC4E23.jpeg
 
This is the bolt stop I purchased for my 6mm Creedmoor build, looks good and functions well.

I grabbed one too. So far so good, well machined and functions fine as best I can tell. Haven't shot with it yet though.
 
Has anyone tried the Curtis Custom 3rd AICS magazines with a Tikka? Doing a lightweight hunting build on a Tikka action and I like how these sit a lot more flush with the stock. Looks like the feedlips are a bit on the thicker side, though, resembling the Magpul mags which don't really work well with Tikka actions.

Thanks for the help.
 
Anyone have a Tac A1 in 308 with the 16" barrel? What do you think of it. Although i'm looking for a 6.5, I found a smoking deal on a Tac A1 in 308 with the 16" barrel. It's tempting, depending on how it performs. Would be handy and save some weight. I know it owuld take a pretty big hit to velocity though.
 
Pretty good sale going on at beretta.com. T3 Steel pic rails for less than $25, sales on magazines, free shippong over $50 code BAR15

EDIT-they are out of rails
 
Last edited:
Just posted it in another thread so may as well throw it up here too.
T3X CTR 6.5CM 24”
Sphur + DMR2 3.5-21x50
Custom Wombat Ordnance AI chassis, I have modified to suit newer style AI skins & forend flush cups. All the victor co. add ons, grippy cheek rest etc.
Sterk bolt handle, hss shroud.
Badger mini FTE brake
Sako TRG bipod using an adaptor I made up
ARC 10rnd mags

Loves 140rdf’s, is a tack driver like all my tikkas.
I’ll buy an AI AT one day and put this setup on my .223 T3 Varmint View attachment 7022528View attachment 7022529View attachment 7022530

How do you like that Bushnell glass?
I am having that same scope, but with the illuminated reticle later on this spring.
Really looking for to that.
Heard so much good.
That is quite cute looking, every scope so far has had long bell, but Bushnell has this short bell.
 
Looking to purchase a tikka in next few months for light carrying hunting but eventually it will be a donor for a long range rifle. Does all tikkas barrel come threaded or is it just the CTR model?
Thanks in advance!
44
Not all Tikkas are threaded, the CTR and a few other models come threaded from factory. The Tikka CTR in the plastic stock is very light and would be easy to carry around hunting.
 
This was not loctite, this was the clear epoxy/glue between the rail and receiver
You could try heat, most epoxies will release around 130 degrees. Use some aluminum foil to mask off and direct the heat where you need it.
 
I made my mind up and was going to purchase a thunder beast for my 6.5 CTR. Of course silencershop.com (gonna do a trust) is sold out. So I’m back to waiting to wait. My question is, I know some velocity is lost with shorter barrels. I am looking to add a 308 CTR (free match ammo) to the arsenal. Does adding a suppressor gain or take away any velocity?
 
I made my mind up and was going to purchase a thunder beast for my 6.5 CTR. Of course silencershop.com (gonna do a trust) is sold out. So I’m back to waiting to wait. My question is, I know some velocity is lost with shorter barrels. I am looking to add a 308 CTR (free match ammo) to the arsenal. Does adding a suppressor gain or take away any velocity?

Have you checked out Capital Armory? They have lots of Thunderbeast stuff and I've heard great things about them. I might use them for my next can.
 
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The Bix & Andy is $450.00. That’s a pretty hefty chunk of change, and would definitely cut a wide swath thru the rifle budget.
Yeah, I'm out on that one. I'm all about paying for quality, but $460 for a trigger is pretty damn steep.
 
Ok guys kinda new to this so. I’m sure this has been ask before but can you put a proof carbon fiber barrel on a Tikka t3x action
Yes, I have one in the works right now. You will either need to order a small shank (1.13"), which is what I did, or have your gunsmith do some work to make the 1.20" barrel look right
 
Hi everyone, any thoughts on the Kalixtechnic CR1 cheek riser? Seems like a neat product at a semi-decent price. I would use it on a T3x factory camo stock. One thing I can't figure out after watching the instruction video is how to remove the innards of the stock, i.e. what the butt pad screws into and the styrofoam block. Maybe it's just pried out but I didn't want to try without seeing if someone knew.

If anyone has one to sell I might be interested as well.

Thanks!
-Stooxie
 
Hi everyone, any thoughts on the Kalixtechnic CR1 cheek riser? Seems like a neat product at a semi-decent price. I would use it on a T3x factory camo stock. One thing I can't figure out after watching the instruction video is how to remove the innards of the stock, i.e. what the butt pad screws into and the styrofoam block. Maybe it's just pried out but I didn't want to try without seeing if someone knew.

If anyone has one to sell I might be interested as well.

Thanks!
-Stooxie
When you remove the butt pad you will find a plastic grate that holds the foam in place.
Remove the grate and bump the stock to see if the foam will come loose if not put a small flat head driver down to the side of the foam block or something to grip the foam and leverage it out.
If your stock has the cheek piece like the CTR does then you have to pop out the plug on top and remove the screw holding it on because that screw goes through and into the foam.
It comes out easy so should not be a problem as long as you can get a grip on it....
 
When you remove the butt pad you will find a plastic grate that holds the foam in place.
Remove the grate and bump the stock to see if the foam will come loose if not put a small flat head driver down to the side of the foam block or something to grip the foam and leverage it out.
If your stock has the cheek piece like the CTR does then you have to pop out the plug on top and remove the screw holding it on because that screw goes through and into the foam.
It comes out easy so should not be a problem as long as you can get a grip on it....

Ok, so that plastic grate isn't glued in or otherwise permanent? I just yank it out with sone pliers?

-Stooxie
 
That's all there is to it.....

Thank you sir! I ordered the riser, I'll post pics when I get it installed. Once I get the bolt back from LRI I'll finally be able to test it out. I'm still pretty sure it's the world's only 6.8 SPC II Tikka T3!

-Stooxie
 
Check out the Timney 2 stage trigger. Its awesome and adjusts down below a pound.
For the cost they are great triggers.
I bought one for $165 shipped and I liked it so much I bought another one on Black Friday for $121 shipped.
I've got one sitting in my CTR / MDT chassis and another one mounted on a donor T3 action.
I'm in the process of putting together a CF 6.5 PRC hunting rig with it.....
 
Have you checked out Capital Armory? They have lots of Thunderbeast stuff and I've heard great things about them. I might use them for my next can.
I have bought several suppressors from Tory @ Capitol Armory along with several guns. Great group of guys over there and they also do engraving.
 
I have bought several suppressors from Tory @ Capitol Armory along with several guns. Great group of guys over there and they also do engraving.
+1 for Capital Armory, I have purchased 2 cans thru them. Great prices and everything went smoothly,
 
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Has anyone tried the Curtis Custom 3rd AICS magazines with a Tikka? Doing a lightweight hunting build on a Tikka action and I like how these sit a lot more flush with the stock. Looks like the feedlips are a bit on the thicker side, though, resembling the Magpul mags which don't really work well with Tikka actions.

Thanks for the help.
A friend gave me one that I run on a remy with PTG flush bottom metal and it works great. Very well made
 
A friend gave me one that I run on a remy with PTG flush bottom metal and it works great. Very well made

I ordered one and it doesn’t look like it’s going work. Why can’t companies just use the same design as the AICS and shorten it? This thing has the thickest lips of anything I’ve ever seen. Way beyond necessary. Sigh lol.
 
Do any of you all have any comparison pictures or information that shows the difference between the bottom metal of a T3x vs T3x CTR. From what I understand the actions are the same but the bottom metal is different between them. I'm looking at a stock that is for a T3x and wondering how much milling would be required to fit it for my CTR.
 
Who is the preferred Tikka whisperer these days?
I’m wishing to update / refresh my old 308 T3x with a new stock, barrel, bottom metal, etc. or just going with a CTR. No competition shooting, just plinking and hunting.
Anyway, just curious about who everybody has been using.
 
Do any of you all have any comparison pictures or information that shows the difference between the bottom metal of a T3x vs T3x CTR. From what I understand the actions are the same but the bottom metal is different between them. I'm looking at a stock that is for a T3x and wondering how much milling would be required to fit it for my CTR.
These pics are not to good but you can see the gap between the two....
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Those pics are perfect. I think for as cheap as the stock is I'd give milling it out a shot.

It's plain to see that the CTR stocks are just the regular stocks that have been run through a cycle on the CNC/mill. You can totally open one up in the same way if you're handy. I opened up a GRS Berserk to take CTR bottom metal. The hardest part is finding flat surface to use as a reference. Lots of angles. If you actually a proper mill or CNC it's not a big deal. (I do not!)

-Stooxie
 
It's plain to see that the CTR stocks are just the regular stocks that have been run through a cycle on the CNC/mill. You can totally open one up in the same way if you're handy. I opened up a GRS Berserk to take CTR bottom metal. The hardest part is finding flat surface to use as a reference. Lots of angles. If you actually a proper mill or CNC it's not a big deal. (I do not!)

-Stooxie

I don't have a proper mill either, but I'll take a look at it first and see if I think it's something I can do in the shop or if I need to let someone else take care of it.