Can I ask why they had to go back? Not bashing Sig at all, just curious.
- Thread starter stevenc23
- Start date
Hair, crack, or whatever in the reticle. Right out of the box.
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While I don't like that Sig didn't include lens covers and the carry pouch is a weird abomination that is going in the trash, the ocular focus hasn't bothered me so far.
I got an ocular cover from JeremyV and it fits and works great, thanks Jeremy for making them available to us. I asked that mine be made to fit snug on the eyepieces and they fit perfectly. I also installed a pair of Butler Creek Multiflex objective covers part number 33940 and they work very well.
I got an ocular cover from JeremyV and it fits and works great, thanks Jeremy for making them available to us. I asked that mine be made to fit snug on the eyepieces and they fit perfectly. I also installed a pair of Butler Creek Multiflex objective covers part number 33940 and they work very well.
Ok. My orings came in. The idea doesn't work with round ones but are wonderful with square. Notice the oring stuffed in between the diopter ring and the rubber over mold of the housing. The rubber over mold of the diopter covers it up making it look factory. This oring creates a rubber on rubber bind with the rubber housing over mold. This oring tightens things up considerably but I'm going to order some more to see how much more tighter it can get. I think its plenty tight enough but it might not be for others.
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I’ve been looking at these, mainly for prs spotting, I do have a kestrel to pair with, would be used for hunting occasionally, hoping I can talk a rep into letting me demo a pair for my local prs club, we all have kestrels it seems like and everyone has different binos or spotters
I like really good glass to spot/ watch and if it can catch trace it’s been better to watch for actual wind calls, and my local prs matches max out at 800
I like really good glass to spot/ watch and if it can catch trace it’s been better to watch for actual wind calls, and my local prs matches max out at 800
Got mine last week. Fast results at all match and hunting distances. My family was amused watching me range a slew of power pole tops and insulators across our valley. I found 20 that are 972 to 1950yards. Was able to pinpoint sensor location in reticle. Performance on par with a Terapin X I borrowed, and superior to both 2800 and 2400 I’ve used
Diopters snug and no evidence of looseness. Pouch similar to my Kuiu Bino pack so I don’t dislike it for its intended purpose but am ordering the 5.11 pouch to store them in.
I have a pair of of viper 12x50 binos th I use to spot deer elk and PRS. 3000’s are pretty dam close to the vipers.
Quite satisfied with my purchase....
Diopters snug and no evidence of looseness. Pouch similar to my Kuiu Bino pack so I don’t dislike it for its intended purpose but am ordering the 5.11 pouch to store them in.
I have a pair of of viper 12x50 binos th I use to spot deer elk and PRS. 3000’s are pretty dam close to the vipers.
Quite satisfied with my purchase....
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What 5.11 pouch did you go with?
Doc, any word on a possible firmware update that allows the sig to input multiple targets into 701 or 5700? Steel Safari hosted by CD would be a great venue to test out those capabilities.
I did this with the Terrapin X while linked to the Kestrel 5700 and I’d assume this would work the same. I used the target card in the Kestrel and would select “A” and range my target. Then toggle down one spot to “B” and range the next target.
I just got my binos tonight but I’ll be trying this and will report back if someone hasn’t already confirmed or disproved this.
Just as a follow up... the binos will create a multiple target card for you within the 5700s target card feature as I stated previously. Works phenomenal.
When I shot PPRC last year and we had to find, range and engage targets on the clock, this made it a very easy task. Pretty cool feature.
When I shot PPRC last year and we had to find, range and engage targets on the clock, this made it a very easy task. Pretty cool feature.
This is huge! The Leica 2800.com has been reported to NOT have this ability.
Thanx for the report!
I would think that’s because the Leica is built as a hunting tool.
-light weight
-great glass
-small package
All three things that the Sig is not. Just a different application.
Have you tried the Sig?
If you compare it to your average set of roof prism 10x42s, it's about the same size and you don't have to carry an extra range finder and it will range farther. The glass is good too.
Why do you hate it?
Trying to justify your purchase?
If you compare it to your average set of roof prism 10x42s, it's about the same size and you don't have to carry an extra range finder and it will range farther. The glass is good too.
Why do you hate it?
Trying to justify your purchase?
The current Leica has a Kestrel Protocol, the reason the Sig can do it is because the communications protocol is the AB protocol. We are working on this as a feature in the 701 as well. You should find this ability with other LRFs that are running AB Protocol when using some of our devices. It is rolling out slowly, but we want to ensure stability.
How did you estimate that?Looks like my laser is dead center left to right and just sitting on top of theNow I have an exact location to use.
I used a telephone pole about 600 yards out. Ranging left to right showed where the spot was in the middle. Then I started from above the pole and worked my way down until it was a hit and ranged the correct distance. That was the location at the 12:00 position on the circle. Maybe there is a better way IDK.
So it can't talk to ab on the phone yet but it's coming right?
I’m not sure how many of you have experienced Sig warranty customer service, but I have.
At last Saturday’s Border Wars match in North Dakota, sitting on a hilltop in 20-30mph winds, my spotting station took a head on gust and tipped over. One of my squad mates dove to save it, but alas, it hit the ground. One of the eye pieces were whacked pretty badly and the center tripod mount thingy ripped out. It was somewhat a freak accident and I was a bit upset, but put things away and shot the rest of the match on an amazing course.
I called Sig on Monday and wow. They were immediately helpful and sent me a return shipping label, informing me I should have the repaired unit back within a week. Fucking outstanding!
Not only has my Kilo3000 impressed all who’ve use it on the PRS field, it appears their customer service and warranty is as good, if not better, than the actual product.
Keep it up Sig!
At last Saturday’s Border Wars match in North Dakota, sitting on a hilltop in 20-30mph winds, my spotting station took a head on gust and tipped over. One of my squad mates dove to save it, but alas, it hit the ground. One of the eye pieces were whacked pretty badly and the center tripod mount thingy ripped out. It was somewhat a freak accident and I was a bit upset, but put things away and shot the rest of the match on an amazing course.
I called Sig on Monday and wow. They were immediately helpful and sent me a return shipping label, informing me I should have the repaired unit back within a week. Fucking outstanding!
Not only has my Kilo3000 impressed all who’ve use it on the PRS field, it appears their customer service and warranty is as good, if not better, than the actual product.
Keep it up Sig!
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I literally had the same exact experience with my set at a match and they responded with the same excellent service!!
So I did have the issue with my reticle. It took a little time. They didn't want me to send it back because they didn't have stock and they rathered I have it to play with. So they never even issued a RMA. Well I then had to email them to say hey your website shows you have stock. I promptly received a RMA and FedEx tag. They got the unit on Tuesday and I received my replacement today. Totally happy with it now.
To follow up on tightening up the diopters. If you want them really snug (honestly appropriately snug) use the attached oring. It is a bitch to stuff it down in place... and you do need to trim down the thickness so the over mold seats all the way down. But it is perfectly snug as a bug. Factory looking to boot. Highly suggest it. No need to mark the position with a sharpie.
If you don't want to dick with thinning out the oring then use the other I suggested. It works just fine.
If you don't want to dick with thinning out the oring then use the other I suggested. It works just fine.
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So... as far as installing these, is it a matter of unscrewing the diopters or pulling up the rubber dials ??
Thanks
Sig has made this simple... they were cheap but it makes it simple. There is nothing to unscrew.
First extend the eye cups out.
Next pull on the rubber diopter ring toward the eye cups. This is just an over mold. You want it to end up between the eyecup and the diopter ring. It is glued on two sides and is mechanically retained by a lip that rides in a groove on the ocular tube. The glue isn't very strong, seems like a contact cement of some sort. The over mold is held in place mostly by the lip/groove. The diopter and rubber over mold are grooved vertically all the way around so they are mechanically locked for rotational forces.
Then you stretch the oring over the eycups and diopter rubber.
Last you stuff the oring between the body over mold and the metal diopter ring (you will see this gap). The trick is that it likes to roll into the grove that actuates the diopter. But there is enough real estate below to hold it flat and not roll it. I used my el cheapo dental pick set from Harbor Freight. You need a blunt object to press and drag around the ring and some kind of pick. I found the body over mold needed some persuasion in some locations.
If you use the thick oring you need to get the thickness down to about 1/16" (0.070"). It's thickness comes at about 0.100". This is the cross section too so this is why it is more effective at binding up the diopter. If you don't then the rubber over mold of the diopter will not drop down enough to engage in its locking ring, this is because it stands too proud above the body over mold. Oh and don't forget to note the indicator line on the rubber over mold in relation to the diopter ring below because inevitably the ring will move and you will forget. If you miss this step its no big deal , it has no impact on performance. I found that you can find remnants of the glue on the rubber ring and match it up with the glue on the metal diopter and get you really close. If you want to you can actually ignore the preset location and you can set it for your self. For instance you can set the focus where you want it then lift up on the rubber ring and set it back down aligning the indicator with the O on the body.
Finally if for some reason the eyecup over mold comes off it is retained by double stick tape only. Cheap solution by Sig... but I guess it works.
If you use the thick oring it will not move unless you want it. In fact if you have sweaty hands you may need to dry them to move them.
This modification is the perfect way to solve this problem. If you need to send it in for warranty then pull the oring and its back to factory. Plus it shows no outward signs of being modified. Sig could help us out by modifying their over mold and accomplishing the same thing as this oring. Actually the modification to the mold to produce it would be quite simple. Are you listening Sig??
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I used a dremel with the medium sandpaper drum at a low setting to thin out the thick oring. Just kept rolling and grinding until it was thin enough and even all the way around. I used my leg as the surface to give it some give. I was wearing jeans of course. Just take your time and you won't grind too deep.
For those looking for lens caps for the oculars. These fit well:
Amazon.com : Opticron 45.5mm BGA Binocular Rainguard : Binocular Rainguards : Camera & Photo
Amazon.com : Opticron 45.5mm BGA Binocular Rainguard : Binocular Rainguards : Camera & Photo
www.amazon.com
Been playing with my new BDX 3000 for a while and put up a review in its own thread. One of the things I looked at was the beam relationship to the reticle. Beams are rarely perfectly centered so I always check. On my first unit the beam appeared to be outside of the reticle around 9 o'clock. To confirm I set up a cheapie IR camera and lased a reference grid. For reference the reticle was a one inch circle on the grid at the distance tested.
Here is what I found (Grids lines are 1 inch and laser was 14.125 yards away):
I tried a second unit and the beam was above the 6 o'clock point of the reticle. But what surprised me was the difference in size and orientation of the beam:
Interesting so I thought I would share.
Here is what I found (Grids lines are 1 inch and laser was 14.125 yards away):
I tried a second unit and the beam was above the 6 o'clock point of the reticle. But what surprised me was the difference in size and orientation of the beam:
Interesting so I thought I would share.
Are both of those Sig's?
Yes, both Sig BDX 3000
Please show the serial numbers (minus last two digits for privacy/security) and the model number on the box. Thanks
What's the best way to mount these to a tripod?
Vortex bino mounts works as does my favorite the Outdoorsmans Binos mount https://outdoorsmans.com/products/outdoorsmans-binocular-adapter
I’m getting close to 5000 yards in good conditions with excellent consistency.
Just unboxed mine and have been playing with them for an hour or so. How do I get the binos to display the MIL adjustment? Is that not included in the HUD?
nevermind: figured it out
nevermind: figured it out
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Did the above diopter fix using the smaller dia. O-rings, very simple to do and tightened them up significantly... A bonus being after I got everything adjusted I rotated the over moldings and lined em up for the center dot. Now it’s also a bit easier to see if I have shifted em a bit.... this was a great fix !
The latest firmware update for the 2800.COM integrated kestrel range card use where you can go into each target, range, and it will then input it into each selected target.
So I understand that the kilo3000 runs native AB Lite good to 800 yards. It completes a firing solution by pairing with a Sig app on a smartphone to pull the nearest station's temperature and pressure. Does it still need to remain paired with the app to continue calculating a firing solution? Assuming local temperature and pressure remain stable, was hoping to have the binos continue providing holdovers and windages based on "old" environmental data. Would then reconnect only when conditions change.
No, the solver/engine is built into the Binos. You can leave the phone behind.
I used my Kilo3000 and Kestrel setup for the first time yesterday...spot on ranging, mil adjustment calcs and 1 shot hits on 5" plates out to 500 yards. I was really impressed with how quickly the ranging and dope adjustments were presented. Very happy with the purchase.
You are correct the environmental data is passed over through the phone. Like Doc said the AB solution is in the Kilo3000 and will use the “old” environment until you pair again.
I used it in a match while my Kestrel was sent off to the mothership just like you explained. Pulled out the Shooter app on 800+ targets.
I used it in a match while my Kestrel was sent off to the mothership just like you explained. Pulled out the Shooter app on 800+ targets.
This range finder continues to impress me.
I have used it for several classes as a spotter on movers and wide swing dynamic exercises. Found the glass to be very usable over extended viewing. Not Leica or Swaro imagery but workable when staying on it for a few hours a day.
The LRF feature is what I am totally impressed with.
I have repeatedly gotten quick reads at distance through dirty air. On more than one occasion I have put it side by side with my PLRF10 (which is a good one) and have actually been able to tag some targets that the PLRF10 had troubles with.
Using it out over the flight line behind the shop, the terrain is flat and a shit ton of mirage when the sun is up. Typical Louisiana humidity and the mirage makes for trashy atmosphere to range through. Both units were ranging a mobile welding unit at 3,455 and 2,900 yds when the sun is down with ease but when things get dirty, the Sig was getting me reads when the PLRF wasn't.
I really could care less about ranging something at 2 or 3 thousand yards. I want to be able to tag a smallish target in a mix of terrain or structures inside 1K and have confidence I'm not reading on the hill behind it, the car in front of it or the tree close to it but not the same distance. So far, so good.
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I have used it for several classes as a spotter on movers and wide swing dynamic exercises. Found the glass to be very usable over extended viewing. Not Leica or Swaro imagery but workable when staying on it for a few hours a day.
The LRF feature is what I am totally impressed with.
I have repeatedly gotten quick reads at distance through dirty air. On more than one occasion I have put it side by side with my PLRF10 (which is a good one) and have actually been able to tag some targets that the PLRF10 had troubles with.
Using it out over the flight line behind the shop, the terrain is flat and a shit ton of mirage when the sun is up. Typical Louisiana humidity and the mirage makes for trashy atmosphere to range through. Both units were ranging a mobile welding unit at 3,455 and 2,900 yds when the sun is down with ease but when things get dirty, the Sig was getting me reads when the PLRF wasn't.
I really could care less about ranging something at 2 or 3 thousand yards. I want to be able to tag a smallish target in a mix of terrain or structures inside 1K and have confidence I'm not reading on the hill behind it, the car in front of it or the tree close to it but not the same distance. So far, so good.
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Quick question. just got it. Paired it with my 5700 Elite. Hit range- it sends it to the Kestrel. I'm in ABX mode. Is the comeup supposed to display in the 3000 at the same time? The manual is not that great. Thanks.
