Gunsmithing Removing flush cups?

[FUNCTIONAL]

Is there a way to remove flush cups without completely killing the stock?

Not concerned with filling the hole afterwards, just fill up with some marine-tex /devcon, sand flush and repaint.

 

[jzwolen]

I think most flush cups have a Allen hex at the bottom for initial screw in. Its large, something like 3/8th maybe? Diff manufacturers may use something different.

 

[Terry Cross]

Is there a way to remove flush cups without completely killing the stock?

Not concerned with filling the hole afterwards, just fill up with some marine-tex /devcon, sand flush and repaint.

Clean and de-grease the interior of the cups.
Use a soldering gun on a relatively High setting.

Place the tip of the iron into the bottom of the Flush Cup. Be sure to make solid contact with the bottom of the cup and not the stock material through the large hex drive.

Activate trigger full heat onto the bottom of the cup for about 60 seconds.
Most flush cup installations are done with some type of epoxy on the threads of the cup. It is normal see some light smoke as this epoxy heats and starts to break down.

After 60 or so seconds, remove heat (be F'ing careful where you lay the hot soldering gun) and immediately engage the bottom of the flush cup with a T-handle hex driver and turn (Lefty Loosey) it out of the stock.

The cup is going to be really hot so have a spot to drop it as well.

You should be able to brush out any epoxy residue and/or crumbled stock material from the hole to clean it up and prep for whatever you are doing next.

I have used this on literally hundreds of old flush cups converting to new limited rotation cups as part of upgrades to rifles rotating back in here for re-builds.

../

 

[Temper]

Why not just fill them with devcon and smooth them over since you're going to repaint? The flush cups I have in my stocks don't protrude.

 

[FUNCTIONAL]

After 60 or so seconds, remove heat (be F'ing careful where you lay the hot soldering gun) and immediately engage the bottom of the

I'm going to take a guess and say this part comes from a hard lesson learned . Thank you though that gives me a bit more confidence. Wasnt sure if they were installed with something that couldnt be heated and broken easily but you clearly have the experience with them.

Why not just fill them with devcon and smooth them over since you're going to repaint? The flush cups I have in my stocks don't protrude.

I have felt some stocks that have them flush/recessed but others have had just a tiny lip protrude above the surface of the stock. I'd feel better if they are just out of the way and not a worry later on down the road if I have to install anything else.

 

[bluebu70]

If you don’t have a high wattage soldering iron, heating a 3/16 allen wrench with a torch will do. Hold the wrench with pliers and heat the end cherry red. Put the wrench into the socket at the bottom of the cup and gently twist in the counter clockwise direction. Shouldn’t take more than about 30 seconds and you will feel the epoxy start to loosen.

 

[Mr.Kirk]

Fill it w dry ice, let sit for about two minutes, fill with acetone then perform same steps offered after applying heat. Freezing breaks bonds too