different total weights

[kingslayer]

Hello,

I am new to reloading and currently using a lee single press so that I could learn and try each step of the proccess. I loaded 10 rounds of:

9mm 115 gr Speer tmj
5.7 grains of unique powder
Shot once Speer brass
500 cci primers
Seated at 1.140

I weigh each load twice using a digital scale and the rcbs mechanical scale.

The end results of the round is around five with a total weight of around 177 grains and a other 5 around 183 grains.

I am going to pull the bullet out and reweigh the load again to make sure its not a double charge, although I find it hard it's a double charge. Am I missing something? Thanks in advance and forgive me if I used the wrong terms.

 

[pell1203]

Sounds like you are weighing the completed loaded round per your description to get values of 177-183 grains.

The discrepancies you describe are most likely due to tolerance stacking of the individual components with the bulk of the differences coming from the weight variance of the brass and bullets. Be aware that individual brass and bullets from same lot will experience variations while those from different lots can exhibit larger variances. For example, brass casings from different lots of same manufacturer will typically exhibit less variations than brass casings from different manufacturers.

The most important thing is to make sure your powder charge is consistent and safe. If possible you’ve made a mistake in powder charge then it would be wise to recheck your process.

 

[kingslayer]

Sounds like you are weighing the completed loaded round per your description to get values of 177-183 grains.

The discrepancies you describe are most likely due to tolerance stacking of the individual components with the bulk of the differences coming from the weight variance of the brass and bullets. Be aware that individual brass and bullets from same lot will experience variations while those from different lots can exhibit larger variances. For example, brass casings from different lots of same manufacturer will typically exhibit less variations than brass casings from different manufacturers.

The most important thing is to make sure your powder charge is consistent and safe. If possible you’ve made a mistake in powder charge then it would be wise to recheck your process.

Thanks for your reply. That makes sense. I will pull one anyways to make sure. I guess I am just overly paranoid.

 

[Ryridesmotox]

Pistol brass is pretty inconsistent for weights. It doesnt take much to be off a few grains in either direction. I wouldnt worry a whole lot about it. Remember there are 7000 grain in 1 pound. So to be off 5 grains is a very small amount, especially talking brass and lead. I use winchester brass usually and I can weigh loaded 9mm cartridges all day and literally never get the same number.

 

[kingslayer]

Thanks, I pulled the bullet on one and measured the powder and it was right on. Thanks for the info.

 

[DownhillFromHere]

@pell1203 nailed it. If you're new to reloading, I understand the interest in learning and desire for consistency. If you weigh primers, brass, and bullets independently, you'll probably find that there are variances in each one.

Here's the thing, though. It's a 9mm, and you don't need to be perfect. In fact, all you need is reasonably close. The load you're assembling is as plain-vanilla-bulk-recipe as it's going to get, short of loading polymer-coated bullets. If you're shooting these out of a normal service pistol (Glock, Sig, S&W, Ruger, etc.), you aren't ever going to get target accuracy anyway. These guns are more about reliability than accuracy.

If accuracy is more important, try a good brand of jacketed hollow points from Sierra, Speer, Hornady, etc. I personally use Montana Gold 115s or 124s when I'm shooting smaller or more "distant" or moving targets. Where accuracy is secondary to speed - larger targets - I use polymer-coated bullets because they're 1-2 cents cheaper than jacketed, and when you buy them by the thousand those pennies add up.

I load range brass I hoover up when the opportunity presents itself. Therefore, I get everything from good once-fired brass to used-up bulk brass that's literally split when I pick it up. For me, the main criterion for a successful 9mm handload is, does it fit in my Wilson case gauge ("gage" in Wilson-spell)? If it does, it will work for me. My CZ Tactical Sport Orange competition gun - in fact, all the CZ 9mm pistols with which I have experience - have far tighter chambers than the service models mentioned above. All the rounds which don't drop into the case gauge go into the "Glock jar" because our Glocks and Sigs will happily run with ammo that jams the CZs tight enough to need a mallet to clear.

So get yourself a 9mm case gauge. At some point, you'll find yourself loading mixed-headstamp brass of unknown heritage. Even if you're loading for a Glock, which will eat anything close to the right caliber, the gauge will catch split cases.

And don't worry about "precision" for 9mm. If you're new to reloading, I understand the desire to make the most accurate loads you can. For me, though, loading 9mm ranks alongside swabbing the household toilets - it's something I have to do, not something I enjoy. I want to get it done as fast and cheap as I can to meet my needs, and the A zone is usually a pretty big target.

If you shoot much, you're going to outgrow that Lee press quickly. When you look at progressive presses, look no further than Dillon. Yes, Hornady, RCBS, and others make good presses. But Dillon sets the bar. And I also use my 20+-year-old Dillon 550B for precision rifle handloads, running it more like a single-stage press than a true progressive.

 

[Ryridesmotox]

@pell1203 nailed it. If you're new to reloading, I understand the interest in learning and desire for consistency. If you weigh primers, brass, and bullets independently, you'll probably find that there are variances in each one.

Here's the thing, though. It's a 9mm, and you don't need to be perfect. In fact, all you need is reasonably close. The load you're assembling is as plain-vanilla-bulk-recipe as it's going to get, short of loading polymer-coated bullets. If you're shooting these out of a normal service pistol (Glock, Sig, S&W, Ruger, etc.), you aren't ever going to get target accuracy anyway. These guns are more about reliability than accuracy.

If accuracy is more important, try a good brand of jacketed hollow points from Sierra, Speer, Hornady, etc. I personally use Montana Gold 115s or 124s when I'm shooting smaller or more "distant" or moving targets. Where accuracy is secondary to speed - larger targets - I use polymer-coated bullets because they're 1-2 cents cheaper than jacketed, and when you buy them by the thousand those pennies add up.

I load range brass I hoover up when the opportunity presents itself. Therefore, I get everything from good once-fired brass to used-up bulk brass that's literally split when I pick it up. For me, the main criterion for a successful 9mm handload is, does it fit in my Wilson case gauge ("gage" in Wilson-spell)? If it does, it will work for me. My CZ Tactical Sport Orange competition gun - in fact, all the CZ 9mm pistols with which I have experience - have far tighter chambers than the service models mentioned above. All the rounds which don't drop into the case gauge go into the "Glock jar" because our Glocks and Sigs will happily run with ammo that jams the CZs tight enough to need a mallet to clear.

So get yourself a 9mm case gauge. At some point, you'll find yourself loading mixed-headstamp brass of unknown heritage. Even if you're loading for a Glock, which will eat anything close to the right caliber, the gauge will catch split cases.

And don't worry about "precision" for 9mm. If you're new to reloading, I understand the desire to make the most accurate loads you can. For me, though, loading 9mm ranks alongside swabbing the household toilets - it's something I have to do, not something I enjoy. I want to get it done as fast and cheap as I can to meet my needs, and the A zone is usually a pretty big target.

If you shoot much, you're going to outgrow that Lee press quickly. When you look at progressive presses, look no further than Dillon. Yes, Hornady, RCBS, and others make good presses. But Dillon sets the bar. And I also use my 20+-year-old Dillon 550B for precision rifle handloads, running it more like a single-stage press than a true progressive.

I couldn't imagine reloading 9mm on a single stage. I think I would Epstein myself in the garage due to my knowledge about the Clintons.

I like my lee loadmaster though. They are economical price wise and they prime at the top o the ram stroke with a very simple adjustment. So I can seat the primers at the very bottom of the pocket. The dillon is for sure nicer but the quality of the ammo is as good, as long as the person operating the machine is competent.

 

[kingslayer]

Thanks for all the advice, I appreciate it. I have a hornady progressive press that I need to set up. I just felt the need to learn how to do it manually so that I have a better understanding of the proccess.

I also have a 9mm case gague as well. I'll get to it and shoot away. Thanks again.