Gunsmithing Chopping a fluted barrel?

[PinesAndProjectiles]

I'm looking at buying a Tikka Superlite, which has a fluted barrel, and chop it down to 16.5 inches, then thread the muzzle for a can.

Is it possible to chop the barrel and thread the muzzle or are the flutes going to reduce the OD too much to safely cut threads on the muzzle?

 

[Praeger]

Just eyeballing from this generic Tikka Superlite photo - but I doubt there'd be enough metal to securely lock up a suppressor. Not worth risking a baffle strike.

 

[DAVETOOLEY]

It's a bit tricky, meaning aggravating for the smith because of the interrupted cut, but as long as the diameter is larger enough there's no reason it won't work.

 

[Mordamer]

It will work fine. You'll likely need 1/2-28 muzzle threads to get enough shoulder behind the threads. It would be best if this was a smaller caliber like 22-250, .223, or .243 so you maintain good bore wall thickness.

 

[DAVETOOLEY]

It may sound crazy but even interrupted threads should work. Anyone have the diameter of the barrel @ 16.5" and the flute depth?

After some thought interrupted threads for a can might not be so good. You'd get a face full of gas every shot. Duh

 

[mcfred]

Have the 'smith use a thread-adapter that shoulders on the crown to 'seal' the gasses in the can.

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

It will work fine. You'll likely need 1/2-28 muzzle threads to get enough shoulder behind the threads. It would be best if this was a smaller caliber like 22-250, .223, or .243 so you maintain good bore wall thickness.

With the barrel taper, there may or may not be enough to shoulder an adapter. There should be more meat than there would be near the muzzle.

 

[Mordamer]

It may sound crazy but even interrupted threads should work. Anyone have the diameter of the barrel @ 16.5" and the flute depth?

After some thought interrupted threads for a can might not be so good. You'd get a face full of gas every shot. Duh

The muzzle diameter on that rifle is probably real close to .630". Farther back at 16.5" I would guess the diameter would be .680" at least.

I'm sure that with 9/16-24 or 1/2-28 threads there will be no issue.

 

[Mordamer]

With the barrel taper, there may or may not be enough to shoulder an adapter. There should be more meat than there would be near the muzzle.

There certainly will be enough shoulder even at the muzzle if 1/2-28 threads are used. These Tikka barrels are over .600" at the muzzle.

 

[Wannashootit]

Call me skeptical.
Sure looks like an interrupted shoulder will be the result, gotta wonder how much bearing surface there will really be.

I'd sure take some measurements of the depth of the flutes and barrel OD at the proposed shoulder location before I would chop it.

 

[PinesAndProjectiles]

Call me skeptical.
Sure looks like an interrupted shoulder will be the result, gotta wonder how much bearing surface there will really be.

I'd sure take some measurements of the depth of the flutes and barrel OD at the proposed shoulder location before I would chop it.

I may have to take a micrometer into a sporting goods store and measure one at around the 16.5" mark.

I'd hate to buy one just to find out it won't work. ?

 

[SB545]

I was going to do the same thing. I think there may be a threat on here or rockside about it. What I discovered is that the fluting would not allow enough meat for a good shoulder or threads to seal gases. It's possible to bush up but I didn't want to try to fight it.

I can't remember the diameter in the valley of the flute but it was less than the minor on 1/2-28.

I ended up getting a Kimber with a solid barrel to thread. If you're dead set on Tika the weight difference between the super light and standard T3X is pretty inconsequential.

 

[JGR1953]

If you're dead set on Tika the weight difference between the super light and standard T3X is pretty inconsequential.

This /\ Plus he can get it fluted if he wants to go that route after cutting and threading a smooth barrel and not have to chance screwing the pooch.....