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Tikka T3 Thread

Tikka T3 Stainless Lite in Eliseo Tube Chassis
30" Bartlein .299 1:12" medium palma barrel
.308 Palma--Bisely 150 chamber
155 Sierra 2156 at 2.940" feed from mag--3050 FPS
20200828_085850.jpg
 
Has some one on the forum Tikka user had a plunger problems?
I had this dilemma today with 2 of my T3X rifles.
Im not sure, is it the reason i drop few oil drops on the plunger hole, since it feels that the plunger had some resistance.
Well, today the cases barely drop out from the case hole.
When i came home, i took both of these rifles bolt, and strip the plunger off, cleaned and did a minor polishing to the plunger, and strip the spring a bit, to make it more power to it.
Tested, and it felt ok, but it is not like the new one.
I might need to order that plunger kit on both of my KRG Whiskey Tikka rifles.
Nothing more annoying on the range, than fired case, that wont get the f..k out of the action port.
 
I actually like the boring black stock; to each his own. If I could only see the flashing, and not feel it, I wouldn't even bother.

I guess it comes from my time machining components - we would never let an unfinished piece out the door unless the customer specified that they wanted to finish it afterward.

I don't mean to trash Tikka - the important parts and design are great. So far a really nice rifle especially seeing as how it's so much less $$ than Sako. Granted, skipping the trimming is one more way to keep the cost down, but for me at first grab it sure feels like Toys-R-Us. I've never felt the mold flash on a stock before.

Here's a photo of my trimming to answer your question. Compared to how it shoots this isn't all that important so I won't post any more unless I get another question. Like many here I'll probably wind up with a custom stock next year anyway, and when I'm done I'll spend as much as a higher end rifle after all. :unsure:

View attachment 7408425
I understand what you mean.
Thats why i didnt bought CTR. I took TAC A1 and it has really great finish, costs 500€ more but its really worth it.
 
My TAC aint boring black no more ;)
Somethig you have not never seen before, but it still on cerakoting.
Maybe next week i do receive a package from Ceramet, and i am able to put it back together.
It should be quite nice.
 
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Just joined the Tikka club and bought a Tikka T3x Superlite in 300 win mag. I ordered a Mountain Tactical rail. I know this will have some recoil so what do you guys recommend for 30mm rings to hold a 6-24x50 scope?
 
Took the new 223 CTR out for the first time and wasn’t disappointed! Grabbed some random 40 gr Vmax loads I had sitting around. I’ve got plenty of 75 gr Amax I’ll be loading up shortly.

Ended the day with this 7 shot group at 100 yards. Typical boring Tikka accuracy!

View attachment 7411871
Almost boring how consistently accurate these rifles are right outta the box. Almost...
 
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TAC A1 6.5CM 24" owner here. All factory stock except for the BLKLBL bipod which works great.

I recently started reloading for the TAC A1 and I noticed that I need to seat bullets 110 mils longer than comparable factory load. This is 20 mils off lands and group sizes went down dramatically. Most groups in my test ladders are 0.5 MOA or better. Still tuning the load.

Has anyone measured the freebore in new TAC A1 or CTR barrel? What base-to-ogive distances are you seeing?

Trying to figure if 110 mils is due to barrel wear or if they all come like that from the factory.
 
TAC A1 6.5CM 24" owner here. All factory stock except for the BLKLBL bipod which works great.

I recently started reloading for the TAC A1 and I noticed that I need to seat bullets 110 mils longer than comparable factory load. This is 20 mils off lands and group sizes went down dramatically. Most groups in my test ladders are 0.5 MOA or better. Still tuning the load.

Has anyone measured the freebore in new TAC A1 or CTR barrel? What base-to-ogive distances are you seeing?

Trying to figure if 110 mils is due to barrel wear or if they all come like that from the factory.
I have the same rifle. With Hornady 140 ELDM bullets, I measured 2.93” OAL to jam the lands, the same bullets measured base to ogive is 2.30”
 
Has some one on the forum Tikka user had a plunger problems?
I had this dilemma today with 2 of my T3X rifles.
Im not sure, is it the reason i drop few oil drops on the plunger hole, since it feels that the plunger had some resistance.
Well, today the cases barely drop out from the case hole.
When i came home, i took both of these rifles bolt, and strip the plunger off, cleaned and did a minor polishing to the plunger, and strip the spring a bit, to make it more power to it.
Tested, and it felt ok, but it is not like the new one.
I might need to order that plunger kit on both of my KRG Whiskey Tikka rifles.
Nothing more annoying on the range, than fired case, that wont get the f..k out of the action port.

I just had this problem after 4k rds. 2nd barrel. Will try the replacement kit. Any idea how to get it out? Just punch the roll pin?
 
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I just had this problem after 4k rds. 2nd barrel. Will try the replacement kit. Any idea how to get it out? Just punch the roll pin?
"Be sure to pull your firing pin out"
The ejector side of the pin should be slightly less than flush and should come out and go back in that way.
Stick a small pin punch on the opposite side hole while holding some downward pressure on the ejector and tap the pin out.
Be sure to keep a finger over the ejector so it doesn't go flying when you pull out the punch.
When you put it back in be sure the notch cut in the ejector faces the pin side.
Press the ejector down and tap the pin back in on the ejector side to just barely below flush so it does not grab anything.

Here is a simple video that shows the process other than removing the firing pin which has to come out on a Tikka....

 
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I have the same rifle. With Hornady 140 ELDM bullets, I measured 2.93” OAL to jam the lands, the same bullets measured base to ogive is 2.30”

Your measurements are consistent with mine. I was using the same bullet and measured CBTO (base to ogive) as 2.907" and OAL 2.285" when seated about 20 mils off lands.

How many rounds did you have through the barrel when you took the measurements? I'm at 1200-1300 rounds fired now.
 
Your measurements are consistent with mine. I was using the same bullet and measured CBTO (base to ogive) as 2.907" and OAL 2.285" when seated about 20 mils off lands.

How many rounds did you have through the barrel when you took the measurements? I'm at 1200-1300 rounds fired now.
Probably only ~200 down the tube
 
Took the new 223 CTR out for the first time and wasn’t disappointed! Grabbed some random 40 gr Vmax loads I had sitting around. I’ve got plenty of 75 gr Amax I’ll be loading up shortly.

Ended the day with this 7 shot group at 100 yards. Typical boring Tikka accuracy!

View attachment 7411871
So glad to see the CTR offered in .223. I ended up buying a Tac A1 Mag off optics planet for my .223 Tikka build. I was pretty pleased with the COAL gains in the CTR mag over the stock .223 mag that usually offers. Also, stainless CTRs rock. Nice rifle, nice groups!
 
So glad to see the CTR offered in .223. I ended up buying a Tac A1 Mag off optics planet for my .223 Tikka build. I was pretty pleased with the COAL gains in the CTR mag over the stock .223 mag that usually offers. Also, stainless CTRs rock. Nice rifle, nice groups!
TAC a1 mag is ctr mag.
 
So glad to see the CTR offered in .223. I ended up buying a Tac A1 Mag off optics planet for my .223 Tikka build. I was pretty pleased with the COAL gains in the CTR mag over the stock .223 mag that usually offers. Also, stainless CTRs rock. Nice rifle, nice groups!

Thanks! I saw the .223 CTR listed on Tikkas website back in Feb, but they didn’t become available for pre-order until May. So stoked it was finally released in the US.
 
Has anyone bought a criterion prefit from solid accuracy? Seems like they are the only ones that you can get a tikka criterion from.
 
Has anyone bought a criterion prefit from solid accuracy? Seems like they are the only ones that you can get a tikka criterion from.

I have a criterion barrel that I purchased direct through Criterion. They send the Tikka barrels to Solid Accuracy to spin up from what I know. The barrel shoots great!
 
I have a criterion barrel that I purchased direct through Criterion. They send the Tikka barrels to Solid Accuracy to spin up from what I know. The barrel shoots great!

from reading the solid accuracy site, they are getting the blanks and doing the rest. Still would like confirmation on the quality of work they do before dropping $500. I know what leaves criterion is probably excellent. They have a good reputation.
 
from reading the solid accuracy site, they are getting the blanks and doing the rest. Still would like confirmation on the quality of work they do before dropping $500. I know what leaves criterion is probably excellent. They have a good reputation.

I have one from Tim Beasley. He owns Solid Accuracy. It shoots great and I have over 700 rounds through it with prs match use. Here's the latest 3 shot groups after cleaning.

Took about 6 weeks to turn as he had a backlog at the time. It's a 6 Creedmoor.

That's factory Hornady 108 ELD-M's.

IMG_20190922_192502_489.jpg


IMG_20200821_171449_865.jpg
 
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That new UPR looks cool. Interested in what you think of the stock once you get some time on it? The sling swivel in the bag rider location is an odd choice to me.
Finally got to shoot the UPR, I like the stock a lot. It’s living up to the lightweight TRG impression.
6A757663-9A05-4116-8972-52AC101F3A2B.jpeg
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Left side is 120 TTSX, right is 123 Scenars. Both 3 shots @100 yd with Varget.
 
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I just had this problem after 4k rds. 2nd barrel. Will try the replacement kit. Any idea how to get it out? Just punch the roll pin?
Remove firing pin.
Put the bolt in to a vice, or table corner.
I used a clear plastic bag when i removed the roll pin out, so that all the parts are in the bag when they fall out.
Only the roll pin did fall out, plunger and spring did not came out with out pliers.
Ordered 10 new spings from Sako, 2,5€ per spring.
Should work a while now :)
 
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from reading the solid accuracy site, they are getting the blanks and doing the rest. Still would like confirmation on the quality of work they do before dropping $500. I know what leaves criterion is probably excellent. They have a good reputation.

I can send you pictures of 5 shot groups that look just like Tunnuh's with everything from 130 grain Norma Golden Targets, 140 ElDM'S, 140 Berger Hybrids. I was getting around 3,000 fps with RL 16 and the 130's and I am getting 2800 fps from 140's with H4350. 24" barrel.

The barrel from Solid Accuracy shoots! I have logged just over 1,000 rounds on it so far this year. When I received the barrel it even came with a barrel nut wrench that has the torque value etched into it from Solid Accuracy.
 
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Remove firing pin.
Put the bolt in to a vice, or table corner.
I used a clear plastic bag when i removed the roll pin out, so that all the parts are in the bag when they fall out.
Only the roll pin did fall out, plunger and spring did not came out with out pliers.
Ordered 10 new spings from Sako, 2,5€ per spring.
Should work a while now :)

I cannot just order the spring here in the states :(... do you know the size of the spring? I would appreciate it greatly so I can get one similar, and thank you for your reply!
 
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I can send you pictures of 5 shot groups that look just like Tunnuh's with everything from 130 grain Norma Golden Targets, 140 ElDM'S, 140 Berger Hybrids. I was getting around 3,000 fps with RL 16 and the 130's and I am getting 2800 fps from 140's with H4350. 24" barrel.

The barrel from Solid Accuracy shoots! I have logged just over 1,000 rounds on it so far this year. When I received the barrel it even came with a barrel nut wrench that has the torque value etched into it from Solid Accuracy.

Exactly the kind of confirmation I was looking for. Thanks.
 
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Has some one on the forum Tikka user had a plunger problems?
I had this dilemma today with 2 of my T3X rifles.
Im not sure, is it the reason i drop few oil drops on the plunger hole, since it feels that the plunger had some resistance.
Well, today the cases barely drop out from the case hole.
When i came home, i took both of these rifles bolt, and strip the plunger off, cleaned and did a minor polishing to the plunger, and strip the spring a bit, to make it more power to it.
Tested, and it felt ok, but it is not like the new one.
I might need to order that plunger kit on both of my KRG Whiskey Tikka rifles.
Nothing more annoying on the range, than fired case, that wont get the f..k out of the action port.

I too have had dribbly ejection from Tikkas. I usually pull the ejector and clean the bolt recess and parts thoroughly. Been trying graphite (dry) lube lately and it seems good so far.
 
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I cannot just order the spring here in the states :(... do you know the size of the spring? I would appreciate it greatly so I can get one similar, and thank you for your reply!

Spring dimension are, these are metric.
Dimension 2.75mm
Lenght 14.60mm.

Try to call here.
Beretta USA.
United States
17601 BERETTA DRIVE ACCOKEEK,
MARYLAND 20607 U.S.A.
Tel: 1-301-283 2191
Fax: 1-301-283 0435
 
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Spring dimension are, these are metric.
Dimension 2.75mm
Lenght 14.60mm.

Try to call here.
Beretta USA.
United States
17601 BERETTA DRIVE ACCOKEEK,
MARYLAND 20607 U.S.A.
Tel: 1-301-283 2191
Fax: 1-301-283 0435

Thank you for this info! I did and they said they don't know that the spec is in the spring. Beretta isn't the best to deal with.

Thank you again for the help with this!
 
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I’m new to precision rifles and looking at getting my first one. I have been looking at the Tikka T3 CTR and eventually replacing the stock or going the a RPR that I don’t need to replace the stock. What would be the benefits of going to a Tikka over the Ruger? Thanks
 
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Tikka has a smoother action and a nicer trigger, I have four of them. RPR's shoot just fine, personally I couldn't get comfortable on the cheekpiece set up of the RPR. Either will work well to get started shooting. This is a tikka sub-forum so you're going to get mostly Tikka suggestions. :)
 
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I’m new to precision rifles and looking at getting my first one. I have been looking at the Tikka T3 CTR and eventually replacing the stock or going the a RPR that I don’t need to replace the stock. What would be the benefits of going to a Tikka over the Ruger? Thanks

Do more reading here and the RPR thread. I think the Tikka action is much better than RPR. If you like the TAC chassis then just go that way. If not then go CTR or T3X. If you are going to replace the barrel anyway before you shoot it out then just try to get an action and swap out barrel. I made that mistake. Or watch for sales and just buy a T3x.

Watch these videos..
Tikka Build Vlog

CTR with a Bravo is a good shooting/hunting rifle. I think it is the best all around option.

My journey:
used CTR from PX here. Bravo from KRG. shot it for about a year. New PVA prefit barrel (watch for sales). New krg whiskey rear stock from hide vendor. All in maybe should have just gone with the whiskey 3 to start or i would look hard at the new X-ray from KRG.
 
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I’m new to precision rifles and looking at getting my first one. I have been looking at the Tikka T3 CTR and eventually replacing the stock or going the a RPR that I don’t need to replace the stock. What would be the benefits of going to a Tikka over the Ruger? Thanks
The only thing I don't like a bout the RPR is that it's an action in a chassis. If you find you don't like the RPR chassis you have to sell the whole thing.

With the Tikka, you can choose from a lot of different stocks or chassis.

I've never shot a Tikka or a custom action in order to compare, but the RPR is a good shooter.
 
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