Recent content by Gene Poole

Collets are definitely the way to go if you have the handle removed already anyway.

I've seen voids in nearly every one I've threaded--which hasn't been a lot--and decided it's so much easier, better looking, better performing, and more reliable to just solder on a new PTG handle.

I believe they are available from Remington for a hefty fee and a signed NDA. I have been unable to obtain anything with that sort of detail from any non-OEM source. Probably the closest I've seen was the sheet provided by JPL Custom with their action blanks (4140 raw blank with wire EDM'd...

I almost never reuse a Remington bolt handle. PTG handles are superior to any stock handle IMO. Lots of primary extraction ramp. No need to TIG on the action. Chad's mod may make better ramp contact and probably a smoother overall experience, so I'm not discounting it at all. It's just much...

As you can see from the photo, the heat affected zone is well away from the lugs; probably less than 1.5 inches from the handle.

Silvalloy 355. Works great. Never had a handle break loose (under normal use).

This works well, though the mag base doesn't hold very well. I had to add a c-clamp.

I was wondering what those nubs were when I saw the photo in the ad. That's a pretty slick idea and fixes all the problems I had with my 3D printed version (and why I abandoned that endeavor). I may try to print one with some threaded holes for some nylon set screws and see how that works.

Hmmm. I usually get an email from SH when someone bumps a thread I'm involved in, but I just happened to notice this. I still have all the CAD files for these and could probably crank some out on the 3D printer if I get the time. I've got single-shot CAD models for 3 styles of AICS: SA, LA...

If you order a PTG with M16 extractor cut, the plunger hole will be in the right place already. A dual plunger on those would make the ejection angle wrong.

I did this in January so ambient was pretty cold. I ran it for about 2 hours and adjusted the voltage to keep the current at or above 2 amps the whole time. It never got warm to the touch on the side of the container so I didn't bother with any coolant. I currently don't plan on doing this...

The newer RR actions (with the barcode) are CNC'd with most of the operations (except threading) done in a single fixturing so most everything is pretty tight: the integral lugs, bolt raceway, face. Where they screw up is moving it to another fixture for thread-milling. I've seen them as much...

Do it yourself. It's not rocket science. Google it. Lots of people doing it.

You might also consider a Deublin Rotary Union. Try searching ebay for that too.

As @Killswitch Engage always tells me, life is too short to cheap out on a barrel.