Recent content by witchhunter

Your necks will get thicker too. Turn to make them uniform. If it is a new build, the more consistent, the better. Use the same headstamp.

Contact Forster. If you want it a little bigger, send it back and have em hone it to that size. But, it might produce necks to the size you want as there is some springback. Try it and see.

Measure your chamber and cut em .002 shorter. each time they are fired. This will stop the carbon ring from forming too bad in the front of your chamber.

Each rifle should have it's own dedicated die set and brass. I treat each one as if it is a separate caliber. It is not just the sizer die, but the seater too. I set em once and leave em alone until they need adjustment again.

I shoot it in my .257 Weatherby, I tried all types and settled on the CCI 250 magnums.

Federal primers are softer than some, try switching primers and see if you get the same look. CCI for one.

I have separate dies for every rifle I have. They are adjusted to that rifle's chamber. You do not want to change the adjustment once you get it set. I use the chamber as a gauge to set dies. Adjust it on a case fired in that chamber to just close the bolt easily. Obviously your rifles have...

Try slowing down the amount of time your brass spends in the sizer die. Like a 5 or 10 count and see if that helps. Some brass has more spring back than others. You are using all the same headstamp right?

Don't get lube on the neck. I use a RCBS lube pad. It makes it very easy to only get lube where it needs to be, on the side of the case, not the neck.

Don't mix headstamps is the first rule of accuracy. Pick one and go with it. There are enough variables without mixing volume/capacity into it. Brass prep is mandatory for accurate ammo. Pick a load and use the seating depth to fine tune it by .002 increments. Be careful if you get into the...

You would have to measure your necks with a custom die. Custom dies are sized for the brass neck thickness, thus the neck tension. I would stay with the same brass or buy a neck turner. Or buy a bushing die set, they are adjustable. If you have 400 rounds and a custom sizer die, I would stick...

If you can get the projectile, you will be way ahead. Run some factory rounds through a chrono so you will know where to start velocity wise. Like No1 said, sometimes they use their own powder, not available to us. But if you can get the bullets and you know the speed, you will have to research...

Mark the entire case and bullet with a sharpie then chamber. Your problem area will be identified by a scuff mark. Your case may be too long, your bullet seated to long into the rifling or you may not have your sizer die adjusted properly.

Mark the case and bullet with a sharpie. Chamber and look it over for scuff marks. This will show where it is too tight.

Don't get in a big hurry until you are confident in your reloading knowledge. Keep posting and you will get all the help you will need. But, safety first, always. Good score by the way, I can see you are stoked! The die adjustment is a big deal, so make sure it is correct before you start up...