Suppressors Ultrasonic cleaner: Recommendation(s)?

DownhillFromHere

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The actual device, not cleaning liquids/solutions/etc. What do you have, how long does it take to get suppressors, AR BCGs, etc "clean enough?"

I've perused a number of threads discussing the various cleaning liquids, but I do not recall seeing specific "hardware" discussed.

Thanks.
 
I have this one and it works great for brakes, BCGs, cans, etc. I don’t use anything special as far as solutions either, just Simple Green and tap water.

The trick is to get as much transducer wattage as one can for the given capacity. Transducers are speakers. More watts per Liter = more powerful sound waves.

This one is only 4.5L but has 3 60 watt transducers (180W total) like the bigger ones:

 
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I have this one and it works great for brakes, BCGs, cans, etc. I don’t use anything special as far as solutions either, just Simple Green and tap water.

The trick is to get as much transducer wattage as one can for the given capacity. Transducers are speakers. More watts per Liter = more powerful sound waves.

This one is only 4.5L but has 3 60 watt transducers (180W total) like the bigger ones:

Thanks for the steer re wattage. Makes sense. I guess you know the link above references an unavailable item, but Amazon does put up an alternative.

Years back a buddy got me one from Harbor Freight.

Works dandy and has for well over a decade of frequent use.

They are all chyna made, so why pay more for a name stamp?
I looked at the Harbor Freight units... there's a HF store not too far from me so that was attractive... but reviews point to an underpowered unit that only runs for a few minutes before it cycles off.
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It does look like I need to spend over $100 to get one powerful enough. Dang, I could buy a thousand primers for that... ;)
 
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Thanks for the steer re wattage. Makes sense. I guess you know the link above references an unavailable item, but Amazon does put up an alternative.


I looked at the Harbor Freight units... there's a HF store not too far from me so that was attractive... but reviews point to an underpowered unit that only runs for a few minutes before it cycles off.
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It does look like I need to spend over $100 to get one powerful enough. Dang, I could buy a thousand primers for that... ;)

I have this one too and can recommend it as well, same specs (same thing really) as the one I linked earlier, it’s just over $100 and pays for itself once you clean like 2 things lol:

 
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Thanks for the steer re wattage. Makes sense. I guess you know the link above references an unavailable item, but Amazon does put up an alternative.


I looked at the Harbor Freight units... there's a HF store not too far from me so that was attractive... but reviews point to an underpowered unit that only runs for a few minutes before it cycles off.
--------------

It does look like I need to spend over $100 to get one powerful enough. Dang, I could buy a thousand primers for that... ;)

Mine runs on cycles of 7 minutes. Thats all the longer you can set it for.
Just set again and run it right after the first.

I guess I clean things often enough that 1-2 is enough.

Also, you can coat suppressor internals so they clean up easier.
 
I have this one too and can recommend it as well, same specs (same thing really) as the one I linked earlier, it’s just over $100 and pays for itself once you clean like 2 things lol:

I have that same anbull 4.5l one. Bought it in 2022 from other recommendations here.

Works great. Can do longer cleaning cycles than the one that @powdahound76 has.
 
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I appreciate the feedback, guys. I think I'm going with the one linked by @CK1.0 and @LeftyJason . I wished I already had it this afternoon as my 6BR got an overdue cleaning. It wear the APA 4-port brake with the little top ports in it... which I discovered wuite awhile back just clog up with carbon and do nothing... it has a nitride or some other black coating on it which I assume CLR will eat or discolor, so ultrasonic should help with that as well as cans and BCGs...
 
I keep wanting to buy a large one. I’m on the fence if it’s worth it or not. I’d like to use it cleaning uppers, barrels and other stuff. Only problem is you would have to but some smaller containers as not to waste a bunch of cleaning solution. Here is the one I’ve been looking at. It looks like the one Lyman sells but without their branding.

 
I appreciate the feedback, guys. I think I'm going with the one linked by @CK1.0 and @LeftyJason . I wished I already had it this afternoon as my 6BR got an overdue cleaning. It wear the APA 4-port brake with the little top ports in it... which I discovered wuite awhile back just clog up with carbon and do nothing... it has a nitride or some other black coating on it which I assume CLR will eat or discolor, so ultrasonic should help with that as well as cans and BCGs...

If there is a hell, they probably make guys clean brakes without an Ultrasonic Cleaner there lol. Cleaning brakes is sort of the main use of one of my units.

Don't waste your time with any of the special solutions and/or distilled water shenanigans you hear about until you've tried good old Simple Green and regular old tap water (probably a 1:10 ratio, I just add enough SG to get a nice green color that's not too diluted, YMMV).

I don't think heater power matters as much as transducer power, but I crank the heater anyway, and after one 90-minute cycle, my brakes come out like new.

Rinse 'em off, wrap them in a shop towel, swing them around for a minute to dry, spin them back on the barrel, zero pain.

ETA: CLR is acid and iffy with any coating IME, and I wouldn't use it on anything where I was going to let it soak longer than a few minutes and wasn't prepared to spray the shit out of with Windex or Ammonia afterwards (chemical reaction to stop the acid). CLR works great on SS barrels IME (as long as you rinse it in ammonia, you don't want that shit sitting in the fire-cracking), I've used it on 2 heavily fouled SS Proof prefits, and it got a lot of extra life out of them... that said, that's with the barrels off, I wouldn't want that shit anywhere near my action (nitride) or anything else. I turned a black nitride brake from grey to pink, then to silver, using it. Be careful with that stuff.
 
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Be careful with that stuff.
The only CLR use case I have right now is on the first inch forward of the chamber and the muzzle of my stainless barrels. I used to use it in the entire bore until I discovered that a putting a thick C4-wet patch on a cleaning jag one caliber smaller than bore size works wonders, without the risks of CLR. I prefer not to use CLR at all, but it can't be beat for nuking diamond-hard carbon.

I appreciate everyone's input. I ordered the Anbull unit last night.
 
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What you want to be careful of is Cleaning vinegar and temps. Heat it up past 110*f and things clean fast, the higher you go w/temp the stronger & faster it cleans. Also make sure the hertz your ultra sonic operates at is compatible with your cleaning fluid & whatever your cleaning.
Cleaning vinegar at >150*f in mine, will remove hot rolled mill scale, rather rapidly.
 
Vevor from Amazon was cheapest I found.

They're going to self destruct from vibration eventually. Not one of those tools that you will ever get a lifetime out of.

I've been using a $80 one for 3 years now. Think it's paid for itself already.
 
I had good luck with this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B4JKDPF1 I use Simple Green purple and water.
A word of warning regarding the Simple Green HD (the purple stuff). If you heat it much over 100 degrees, it's becomes unstable and will cause aluminum to corrode, and other weirdness. I ran two cycles on my suppressor and realized that I didn't have the heat on. Turned on the heat and started another cycle. When I removed my suppressor, I had two spots where my finish was discolored and a bunch of little spots where the finish is just gone.

Maybe yankee hill just has a suck a$$ finish.
 
A word of warning regarding the Simple Green HD (the purple stuff). If you heat it much over 100 degrees, it's becomes unstable and will cause aluminum to corrode, and other weirdness. I ran two cycles on my suppressor and realized that I didn't have the heat on. Turned on the heat and started another cycle. When I removed my suppressor, I had two spots where my finish was discolored and a bunch of little spots where the finish is just gone.

Maybe yankee hill just has a suck a$$ finish.
Thanks for the info. I run it diluted in tap water temperature, and haven't had a problem. What's odd is it is their recommendation for cleaning aluminum engines, and they suggest against using the Green formula for cleaning aluminum engines, as per a call to their tech people. It could have been a problem with the finish??
 
Thanks for the info. I run it diluted in tap water temperature, and haven't had a problem. What's odd is it is their recommendation for cleaning aluminum engines, and they suggest against using the Green formula for cleaning aluminum engines, as per a call to their tech people. It could have been a problem with the finish??
Yeah, well, the purple stuff is labeled as being safe for metals. I guess you gotta read the small print. When I used it, I diluted with water 3:1.

After I cleaned my suppressor, I rinsed it out real good and left it out on my bench while I was doing other things. When I got back to it, I stuck a fiber optic inspection camera into it to check it out. Unless the simple green causes a chemical process that turns carbon a reddish brown, there was rust inside of my suppressor.

I ran the suppressor again to get rid of the corrosion and Immediately flushed it with Boretech Eliminator to coat the inside with a preservative until I can shoot it again and put a good coat of carbon on the inside.

So far, my experience with suppressors, ultrasonic cleaners and popular cleaning shortcuts has been less than positive. Still, the ultrasonic cleaner does a heck of a job on bolt carrier groups.

I wonder if you can use Breakthrough in an ultrasonic cleaner.
 
Yeah, well, the purple stuff is labeled as being safe for metals. I guess you gotta read the small print. When I used it, I diluted with water 3:1.

After I cleaned my suppressor, I rinsed it out real good and left it out on my bench while I was doing other things. When I got back to it, I stuck a fiber optic inspection camera into it to check it out. Unless the simple green causes a chemical process that turns carbon a reddish brown, there was rust inside of my suppressor.

I ran the suppressor again to get rid of the corrosion and Immediately flushed it with Boretech Eliminator to coat the inside with a preservative until I can shoot it again and put a good coat of carbon on the inside.

So far, my experience with suppressors, ultrasonic cleaners and popular cleaning shortcuts has been less than positive. Still, the ultrasonic cleaner does a heck of a job on bolt carrier groups.

I wonder if you can use Breakthrough in an ultrasonic cleaner.
You know it is possible they might have changed their verbiage over the years with regard to metals. Years back I had called and asked specifically about aluminum for wheels and engines and they said Purple was the one to use. They touted it for stainless steel range hoods, etc. which is why I used it in the Ultra Sonic cleaner. After reading this I just went to their site, they have changed their verbiage. It worked well for me in the ultra sonic with stainless steel muzzle brakes, but I'm rethinking aluminum wheels and engines now. I might have to rethink my muzzle brakes too. A call to them might be in order.
 
Yeah, well, the purple stuff is labeled as being safe for metals. I guess you gotta read the small print. When I used it, I diluted with water 3:1.

After I cleaned my suppressor, I rinsed it out real good and left it out on my bench while I was doing other things. When I got back to it, I stuck a fiber optic inspection camera into it to check it out. Unless the simple green causes a chemical process that turns carbon a reddish brown, there was rust inside of my suppressor.

I ran the suppressor again to get rid of the corrosion and Immediately flushed it with Boretech Eliminator to coat the inside with a preservative until I can shoot it again and put a good coat of carbon on the inside.

So far, my experience with suppressors, ultrasonic cleaners and popular cleaning shortcuts has been less than positive. Still, the ultrasonic cleaner does a heck of a job on bolt carrier groups.

I wonder if you can use Breakthrough in an ultrasonic cleaner.
Yes, you need to read the fine print when using the Simple Green products. Many are list as safe on metals, coatings and plastics, but only at the stated dilutions and temperatures. Temperatures no greater than 100 F. They also state to submerge the entire item being cleaned and to never let the cleaning solution dry on item being cleaned. In some cases that state that soft water, distilled or deionized water should be used to dilute the cleaner.

Instructions, dilution ratios and MSDS can be found here:
https://simplegreen.com/industrial/products/specialty/

Extreme Aircraft and Precision Cleaner is non-caustic and water-based. Its high soil capacity, superior grease-cutting, and clean-rinsing formula prevents redeposition - ensuring fast, high precision cleaning of machinery, engines, metals, and more.

  • Precision cleaning and degreasing without caustic solvents
  • Optimized to clean metal, plastic, rubber, and painted surfaces
  • Non-flammable formula is a great alternative to caustic cleaners
  • Tested to meet high precision cleaning needs
  • Formulated with an anti-corrosion agent to minimize oxidation
  • Compatible with parts washers and a variety of cleaning equipment
  • Cost-effective concentrated solution can be diluted
  • Compatible with oil/water separators and clarifiers

For cleaning anything other than factory-finished aircraft surfaces, always spot test first. For best results dilute the concentrate with softened/distilled or demineralized ambient temperature water whenever possible.

Do not allow product to dry on surface. Do not clean over asphalt.

Maximum dilution for non-corrosion to metals is 1:13 (7.1% solution)

Compatible with oil/water separators for ease of disposal.

Dilution Instructions
These dilution ratios are provided as a guide. The product can be custom-diluted to address specific application needs.

Heavy Cleaning: Dilute 1 part Extreme Simple Green to 3 parts water
Use to clean heavily soiled aircraft leading edges, blow-by, belly oil, parts washing, engine cleaning, concrete cleanup, heavily soiled floors and traffic areas, tool clean-up, as a wax remover and as a soak for gasket adhesives removal.

General Cleaning: Dilute 1 part Extreme Simple Green to 13 parts water
Use as a general hand-washdown of aircraft and vehicles and for regular maintenance cleaning of floors, walls and counters.

Pressure Washing: Dilute 1 part Extreme Simple Green to 30-50 parts water For heavily soiled aircraft, vehicles or structures use 30 parts water. For lightly soiled surfaces use 50 parts water.

Light Cleaning: Dilute 1 part Extreme Simple Green to 127 parts water For use as a "window wash" and very light cleaning. Wipe onto glass, mirror, chrome, and plexiglass and polish dry with clean, non-abrasive cloth.

Application Instructions
  1. Dilute Extreme Simple Green with water per chart on label.
  2. Spray or sponge solution onto objects or dip them into the solution.
  3. Allow product to penetrate the soil. Heavy soils may require scrubbing.
  4. Damp wipe or rinse with water.
  5. Repeat if needed.
 

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