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I’m not making any more of these, nor selling them, but I did make a few steel ARCA rails for some shop rifles that were tapered at the rear so they sit flat against the Manners T4 stock, and some steel “spacers” that fit between the stock and the cheek piece for weight and ballast. It worked...
I doubt any do that. You’d be crashing tools if you tried to rapid a bushing that is >.0002” smaller than the bore, if the bore was out more than that.
If you find a builder to tell you how they hold a barrel, the maximum total indicator reading they will accept pre-machining, and where that reading is taken, how do you plan on verifying it once you get the barrel? I know how I’m doing it. I know how some others are doing it. My method works...
Meaning, torque wrenches aren't meant for breaking fasteners free. You can damage them using them as such. Use a breaker bar instead to remove the barrel.
Ever notice how heat sinks are always painted white? Me neither. They are either left as cast/machined or painted/coated/anodized black. (Sometimes reds/blues because looking cool matters…) A barrel is a heat sink, albeit, not a very good one. It is transferring heat generated inside to the...
If sun is the only heat source, white would lessen it. But I’m pretty sure the automotive world has found that black is better for shedding heat from within, or I could completely be making that up, who knows.
If a new 6.5 CM barrel isn’t shooting under an inch with factory Hornady Match ammo immediately, there’s something wrong in the system. Be it the barrel or something else, like Ern mentioned. More rounds is just more rounds wasted.
I have a HTR Pro-Series 2000 from about 2001. It’s been forgotten in the back of the safe unused for probably 15 years. For grins, and now maybe I’ll rebarrel it and offload it, I popped off the barrel. Rather, I put the barrel in my vise, slid in the action wrench and as I was about to put...