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Anyone know how effective the Badger SLICK protective filter works in bright sunlight in terms of reducing glare compared to a Killflash ARD or even duct tape with a slit cut through it?
Nope...just used a standard nylon brush and brass jags with patches per break in instructions.... Even a brass brush or jb bore paste wouldn't cut into steel like that.
Accuracy has been about 1inch+ at 100 with 140american gunner, 3/4 with 140eldmatch. Nothing to write home about. I don't know how much it's me or the barrel so I'm about to try working up some loads and try again tomorrow ... I expected better but too early to tell
Nice ... unfortunately I have a Fuzion action and the bolt goes down 90deg with an oversized bolt knob..worried it may get bottomed out against a part of the buttstock
I don't have the folding hinge on my ATX chassis. I would assume it's the same issue with the ATX rifle. Even if it lines up, I have to bend the rod alittle to get the handle of th cleaning rod over that plate . I don't know how to remove the shoulder piece to do a cleaning. The cleaning rod...
Patriot valley. I'm about to finish putting the brake on. The suppressor sits on the shouldered edge of the brake I am well aware that this isn't a real issue. I was just hoping there were some options out there interms of a larger diameter crush washer or something that would protect that...
The brake is on there with 2 thin shims and the factory supplied spacer. It's all perfect for a .750" AR-15 barrel though. The shoulder of the barrel is sharp...you may be looking at the wrong part.
I just got a new M24 contour barrel and mocked up my surefire brake for my can. Obviously not the same diameter. Is there some kind of washer that I can install that is large enough to protect the sharp corner of the shoulder of the barrel?
I understand it relys on friction now rather then the serrations for retention. Can I really finger tighten that gold round knob hard enough that it wouldn't slip on the smooth rail? I know they now have the new lever locking clamp. I've never handled any arca clamp to know how it grabs
I have my first ever arca rail on my chassis . The rail has smooth edges and not the serrations like some from Daniel defense and area419. If I put area419 clamp onto my smooth edge will it the bipod slip under recoil?
Thanks for the insight. The funny thing is the stock comes with stainless and when I removed em there is start of some damage to the hex. (After heatng it to loosen the loctite). That's why I'm asking about torque. The stainless cap screws are way too soft. If I had to fight the loctite anymore...
Accuracy Int. AT-x....Anyone know what the torque value needs to be on the 4 stainless screws(m4-.07) that holds the upper to the lower chassis.? See attached pic...the yellow arrows..thanks
Does anyone know if AI sells low profile pic rails that will line up with the stock scope rail height....even the standard rails on a Remington 700 clone in the chassis's .
Ok guys..I finally got it clarified from Mile High. The guy helping confirmed with the gunsmith. The ATX chassis needs the mags listed under AX chassis if u re look at the parts listing I posted above . The mags under AI legacy or AT AICS does not work. Here is a copy of the email. Hopefully...