Gunsmithing 1.25 Spindle bore Lathe question
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Re: 1.25 Spindle bore Lathe question
You will want a 1.5" or larger. Unless it has a really short headstock length you wont be able to do most barrels through your headstock.That south bend is a nice lathe but you will probably run into problems down the road because of the size.
Mark
You will want a 1.5" or larger. Unless it has a really short headstock length you wont be able to do most barrels through your headstock.That south bend is a nice lathe but you will probably run into problems down the road because of the size.
Mark
Re: 1.25 Spindle bore Lathe question
1.250" spindle is not ideal for gun work, but you may be able to work around the issue.1.250" should allow most barrels to go thru the spindle. Bed length will be more of an issue if the bbl. cant be put thru the spindle bore. There are smiths who build very accurate rifles and chamber over the bed in a steady rest.
1.250" spindle is not ideal for gun work, but you may be able to work around the issue.1.250" should allow most barrels to go thru the spindle. Bed length will be more of an issue if the bbl. cant be put thru the spindle bore. There are smiths who build very accurate rifles and chamber over the bed in a steady rest.
Re: 1.25 Spindle bore Lathe question
My Clausing is only 1.25 bore,
I have to dial the barrel, then screw/press a sleeve on, then turn it to tightly fit the bore, then flip it and do my work...
It takes a little more time, but works well, and I got a good deal on the lathe, so it doesn't bother me much... FWIW....
My Clausing is only 1.25 bore,
I have to dial the barrel, then screw/press a sleeve on, then turn it to tightly fit the bore, then flip it and do my work...
It takes a little more time, but works well, and I got a good deal on the lathe, so it doesn't bother me much... FWIW....
Re: 1.25 Spindle bore Lathe question
In talking with the seller, I found out it actually has a 1.375 bore which is good. But it has a short bed at only 24".
He has a 16x40 South Bend, and I am thinking about taking a ride up and looking at it.
B-
In talking with the seller, I found out it actually has a 1.375 bore which is good. But it has a short bed at only 24".
He has a 16x40 South Bend, and I am thinking about taking a ride up and looking at it.
B-
Re: 1.25 Spindle bore Lathe question
What part of Oh are you in I know a couple places i NE OH that may have some used machines shoot me a pm if youre interested
What part of Oh are you in I know a couple places i NE OH that may have some used machines shoot me a pm if youre interested
Re: 1.25 Spindle bore Lathe question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BeachGun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In talking with the seller, I found out it actually has a 1.375 bore which is good. But it has a short bed at only 24".
He has a 16x40 South Bend, and I am thinking about taking a ride up and looking at it.
B- </div></div>
Was gonna say my 10L was 1 3/8" and if they made some of the older ones smaller it would be probably 1" or even 7/8"? While the short bed model will work great for many things if you buy it there will be many times you wish you had the long bed which is 33" and somewhat limited for certain things. The 10L/Hvy 10's are a nice machine and without measuring I am guessing about 18" through spindle and chuck. Depending also if you have the camlock spindle which I believe is a bit more.
Get them too big and everything get heavy for gunsmith work. Chucks on the SB Hvy 10 are almost more than my crippled welfare ass can handle. Too big and even sliding the tailstock into place while standing/pulling wrong could pull muscles etc. But then again not everyone is whimpy like me
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BeachGun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In talking with the seller, I found out it actually has a 1.375 bore which is good. But it has a short bed at only 24".
He has a 16x40 South Bend, and I am thinking about taking a ride up and looking at it.
B- </div></div>
Was gonna say my 10L was 1 3/8" and if they made some of the older ones smaller it would be probably 1" or even 7/8"? While the short bed model will work great for many things if you buy it there will be many times you wish you had the long bed which is 33" and somewhat limited for certain things. The 10L/Hvy 10's are a nice machine and without measuring I am guessing about 18" through spindle and chuck. Depending also if you have the camlock spindle which I believe is a bit more.
Get them too big and everything get heavy for gunsmith work. Chucks on the SB Hvy 10 are almost more than my crippled welfare ass can handle. Too big and even sliding the tailstock into place while standing/pulling wrong could pull muscles etc. But then again not everyone is whimpy like me
Re: 1.25 Spindle bore Lathe question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SDWhirlwind</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BeachGun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In talking with the seller, I found out it actually has a 1.375 bore which is good. But it has a short bed at only 24".
He has a 16x40 South Bend, and I am thinking about taking a ride up and looking at it.
B- </div></div>
Was gonna say my 10L was 1 3/8" and if they made some of the older ones smaller it would be probably 1" or even 7/8"? While the short bed model will work great for many things if you buy it there will be many times you wish you had the long bed which is 33" and somewhat limited for certain things. The 10L/Hvy 10's are a nice machine and without measuring I am guessing about 18" through spindle and chuck. Depending also if you have the camlock spindle which I believe is a bit more.
Get them too big and everything get heavy for gunsmith work. Chucks on the SB Hvy 10 are almost more than my crippled welfare ass can handle. Too big and even sliding the tailstock into place while standing/pulling wrong could pull muscles etc. But then again not everyone is whimpy like me
</div></div>
The short one was set up for collets, but had a 3 jaw and a 4 jaw chuck, plus some oth4er tooling. The ways were reground as well. The collet would be fantastic for smaller work, and throw a chuck on when you need it. If it had a longer bed, I would jump on it. I imagine it could be done, but when you have a 4 jaw on, the shank sticking out, plus a floating reamer holder, a reamer, plus the tailstock, you loose room real quick.
I remember using a hoist and a wood block to get some chucks onto the spindle a few years ago. Not something I can do in the garage-the hoist that is. I love working with the machine tools, and miss it badly. Though standing at a machine for 11 hours a day, in steel toe boots is something I don't miss.
B-
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SDWhirlwind</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BeachGun</div><div class="ubbcode-body">In talking with the seller, I found out it actually has a 1.375 bore which is good. But it has a short bed at only 24".
He has a 16x40 South Bend, and I am thinking about taking a ride up and looking at it.
B- </div></div>
Was gonna say my 10L was 1 3/8" and if they made some of the older ones smaller it would be probably 1" or even 7/8"? While the short bed model will work great for many things if you buy it there will be many times you wish you had the long bed which is 33" and somewhat limited for certain things. The 10L/Hvy 10's are a nice machine and without measuring I am guessing about 18" through spindle and chuck. Depending also if you have the camlock spindle which I believe is a bit more.
Get them too big and everything get heavy for gunsmith work. Chucks on the SB Hvy 10 are almost more than my crippled welfare ass can handle. Too big and even sliding the tailstock into place while standing/pulling wrong could pull muscles etc. But then again not everyone is whimpy like me
The short one was set up for collets, but had a 3 jaw and a 4 jaw chuck, plus some oth4er tooling. The ways were reground as well. The collet would be fantastic for smaller work, and throw a chuck on when you need it. If it had a longer bed, I would jump on it. I imagine it could be done, but when you have a 4 jaw on, the shank sticking out, plus a floating reamer holder, a reamer, plus the tailstock, you loose room real quick.
I remember using a hoist and a wood block to get some chucks onto the spindle a few years ago. Not something I can do in the garage-the hoist that is. I love working with the machine tools, and miss it badly. Though standing at a machine for 11 hours a day, in steel toe boots is something I don't miss.
B-
