Whats best for long distance
pro & con
pro & con
Rifle Scopes 1/8 vs 1/4
- Thread starter donshaw
- Start date
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
Sorry.
MOA
Sorry.
MOA
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
the best for long distance is AT&T
the best for long distance is AT&T
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the best for long distance is AT&T </div></div>
Seriously, for that kind of general question there's enough to read in the optics section. Or are you asking about its use for a particular shooting discipline?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the best for long distance is AT&T </div></div>
Seriously, for that kind of general question there's enough to read in the optics section. Or are you asking about its use for a particular shooting discipline?
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
Just the pro of the 1/4 vs 1/8
for general shooting
Just the pro of the 1/4 vs 1/8
for general shooting
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
General consensus seems to be 1/8 for shooting bench rest, 1/4 or even 1/10 mil for more tactical applications. I would personally say that if you are just getting into shooting, go 1/4 MOA. If you provide insight into what you will be using the scope for, we can give you more detailed info.
General consensus seems to be 1/8 for shooting bench rest, 1/4 or even 1/10 mil for more tactical applications. I would personally say that if you are just getting into shooting, go 1/4 MOA. If you provide insight into what you will be using the scope for, we can give you more detailed info.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
Hunting / bench / all Of the above
Im looking at a konus pro m30 8.5-32x52
Or a nikon buckmaster 6.5-22x40
im puting it on a savage 10fp 308
Hunting / bench / all Of the above
Im looking at a konus pro m30 8.5-32x52
Or a nikon buckmaster 6.5-22x40
im puting it on a savage 10fp 308
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
Bump
Bump
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
OK, I'll answer, but only because you 'bumped' impatiently:
Forget 1/8. The reasons for this are obvious.
With regard to MOA, make sure your reticle matches your knobs.
And if you are planning to take someone else's advice without understanding why that advice is appropriate, then you're not ready to buy anything.
Wait until you can explain to yourself why you are doing what you are doing. Otherwise you are wasting your money. And that applies to more than just a scope purchase.
OK, I'll answer, but only because you 'bumped' impatiently:
Forget 1/8. The reasons for this are obvious.
With regard to MOA, make sure your reticle matches your knobs.
And if you are planning to take someone else's advice without understanding why that advice is appropriate, then you're not ready to buy anything.
Wait until you can explain to yourself why you are doing what you are doing. Otherwise you are wasting your money. And that applies to more than just a scope purchase.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the best for long distance is AT&T</div></div>
sometimes i quote myself..........
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the best for long distance is AT&T</div></div>
sometimes i quote myself..........
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
1/4moa is a standard scope adjustment. 1/8moa is good for targets that need 1/4 to 1/2 moa (eg F-class and benchrest) but for anyother shooting it just takes too many clicks. I like 1/4 moa for elevation and 1/2moa for windage for NRA target shooting.
1/4moa is a standard scope adjustment. 1/8moa is good for targets that need 1/4 to 1/2 moa (eg F-class and benchrest) but for anyother shooting it just takes too many clicks. I like 1/4 moa for elevation and 1/2moa for windage for NRA target shooting.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the best for long distance is AT&T</div></div>
sometimes i quote myself.......... </div></div>
that just happened!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the best for long distance is AT&T</div></div>
sometimes i quote myself.......... </div></div>
that just happened!
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Forget 1/8. The reasons for this are obvious.</div></div>And sometimes I repeat myself.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: stevepod</div><div class="ubbcode-body">1/8moa is good for targets that need 1/4 to 1/2 moa... </div></div>Let's think about this for a minute.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Forget 1/8. The reasons for this are obvious.</div></div>And sometimes I repeat myself.<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: stevepod</div><div class="ubbcode-body">1/8moa is good for targets that need 1/4 to 1/2 moa... </div></div>Let's think about this for a minute.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
Wow there are a bunch arrogant pricks on this web site!!
I thought forums are for friendly shooters that want share advice and help other shooters that have questions. But i guess not.
Thank you to the people that DID share friendly advice.
But to those of you who didnt yall need to grow up and look at what people like yall are doing to the world. Because you think that when you know a LITTLE abt something it gives you the right to be a jerk. When you need to remember that you started long range shooting at one point in time in your life too.
Just my thoughts
thx
Wow there are a bunch arrogant pricks on this web site!!
I thought forums are for friendly shooters that want share advice and help other shooters that have questions. But i guess not.
Thank you to the people that DID share friendly advice.
But to those of you who didnt yall need to grow up and look at what people like yall are doing to the world. Because you think that when you know a LITTLE abt something it gives you the right to be a jerk. When you need to remember that you started long range shooting at one point in time in your life too.
Just my thoughts
thx
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the best for long distance is AT&T</div></div>
sometimes i quote myself.......... </div></div>
BEYOND nobel prize worthy
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BOLTRIPPER</div><div class="ubbcode-body">the best for long distance is AT&T</div></div>
sometimes i quote myself.......... </div></div>
BEYOND nobel prize worthy
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
Oooh look another one joins the party
Oooh look another one joins the party
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
You better get some thicker skin if you plan on sticking around here. You see, there are these things called FAQS stickied at the top of the forum, and they explain a lot of these questions that beginners have. So whenever a newbie shows up who starts asking questions that they would have had answered had they read the FAQs or did a quick search, there are always a few guys who can't help but have a little bit of fun.
Now, as far as 1/4 MOA vs 1/8 MOA, unless you're going to shoot benchrest go with 1/4. Another thing I've noticed is that the only scopes that seem to come with 1/8 adjustments BESIDES the high end BR scopes (NF and the like) are the ultra-cheap shit optics like NC Star and Counter Sniper. Avoid that crap at all costs.
You better get some thicker skin if you plan on sticking around here. You see, there are these things called FAQS stickied at the top of the forum, and they explain a lot of these questions that beginners have. So whenever a newbie shows up who starts asking questions that they would have had answered had they read the FAQs or did a quick search, there are always a few guys who can't help but have a little bit of fun.
Now, as far as 1/4 MOA vs 1/8 MOA, unless you're going to shoot benchrest go with 1/4. Another thing I've noticed is that the only scopes that seem to come with 1/8 adjustments BESIDES the high end BR scopes (NF and the like) are the ultra-cheap shit optics like NC Star and Counter Sniper. Avoid that crap at all costs.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
The 2 scopes im looking at are a nikon buckmaster and a konus pro
both $300-$400 scopes not top of the line but not bottom
The 2 scopes im looking at are a nikon buckmaster and a konus pro
both $300-$400 scopes not top of the line but not bottom
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
If you just want to buy something to throw on a rifle, then it doesn't matter.
If you really want to learn to use the rifle to the extent of it's mechanical ability, then you will want to select an optic with matching turrets and reticle. That's not to say that it's required, but it will make your life easier.
I would HIGHLY suggest you forget about 1/4 and 1/8 MOA and look for optics that adjust is 0.1 mRad (or mils). If you do a little research on this site you will read why.
Now to directly answer your question, not many people are able to place their shots to 1/8 MOA. If that's the case then you are wasting your time with 1/8 MOA clicks. If you have to go with MOA, then go with 1/4 to 1/2 MOA clicks.
If you just want to buy something to throw on a rifle, then it doesn't matter.
If you really want to learn to use the rifle to the extent of it's mechanical ability, then you will want to select an optic with matching turrets and reticle. That's not to say that it's required, but it will make your life easier.
I would HIGHLY suggest you forget about 1/4 and 1/8 MOA and look for optics that adjust is 0.1 mRad (or mils). If you do a little research on this site you will read why.
Now to directly answer your question, not many people are able to place their shots to 1/8 MOA. If that's the case then you are wasting your time with 1/8 MOA clicks. If you have to go with MOA, then go with 1/4 to 1/2 MOA clicks.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
sometimes I think the regulars here think the "search feature" is an all powerfull being that always populates the exact answers you need when you provide an input...
I've searched for several topics here, and based on whatever the original thread poster titles a specific thread, the search feature may or may not work. I guess you could search for "scope" within the body of a thread and come up with about 78 thousand threads to search through....
for example, I just searched topics with only "1/4 1/8" and came up with nothing... then I searched for "MOA" and came up with nothing...
however I did search for "scope" and came with with 200 results... .maybe one of those discusses 1/4 vs 1/8 adjustments...
personally, I've never understood why the people with post counts in the thousands get so pissy about people asking redudant questions... obviously you like to talk, why not help a brother out. It's not like the guy is asking for information on mall ninja training.
now in my own opinion, which may not count for much since I don't have 14 million posts... just get the 1/4 MOA and go with it... 1/8 are a pain in the ass, and unless you are setting up a dedicated bench rifle, you probably won't see the difference.
sometimes I think the regulars here think the "search feature" is an all powerfull being that always populates the exact answers you need when you provide an input...
I've searched for several topics here, and based on whatever the original thread poster titles a specific thread, the search feature may or may not work. I guess you could search for "scope" within the body of a thread and come up with about 78 thousand threads to search through....
for example, I just searched topics with only "1/4 1/8" and came up with nothing... then I searched for "MOA" and came up with nothing...
however I did search for "scope" and came with with 200 results... .maybe one of those discusses 1/4 vs 1/8 adjustments...
personally, I've never understood why the people with post counts in the thousands get so pissy about people asking redudant questions... obviously you like to talk, why not help a brother out. It's not like the guy is asking for information on mall ninja training.
now in my own opinion, which may not count for much since I don't have 14 million posts... just get the 1/4 MOA and go with it... 1/8 are a pain in the ass, and unless you are setting up a dedicated bench rifle, you probably won't see the difference.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
I've got a Nightforce BR which has the 1/8 moa clicks. I love the scope, but the 1/8 clicks are very annoying. Unless you absolutely have to have the very fine adjustments just stick with the 1/4 moa adjustments. I also want to say you will have less internal adjustments with the 1/8 than the 1/4. This is just an observation so I could be wrong.
I've got a Nightforce BR which has the 1/8 moa clicks. I love the scope, but the 1/8 clicks are very annoying. Unless you absolutely have to have the very fine adjustments just stick with the 1/4 moa adjustments. I also want to say you will have less internal adjustments with the 1/8 than the 1/4. This is just an observation so I could be wrong.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
stupid questions get stupid answers...what lonewolf said pretty much explains it, but i'll simplify it even more. basically you better be hot shit if you need that fine of an adjustment. (ie benchrest)
if what you're looking into is the buckmaster line, then your decision will be based on what magnification you decide to get. personally i'd go with the 4-14x40 mildot w/ .25 IPHY adjustments. Dont be fooled, they are not moa.
.1 mil adjustment would be the equivalent to about.35 iphy. So this is the preferred adjustment, and its actually pretty coarse. This isn't benchrest central or f-class.com although much insight about those disciplines may be gleaned from this site. In a high speed tactical comp or combat environment, a 1 moa grouping is hopeful at best. corrections will be made fast. it sucks having a knob that takes 7 whole rotations to get to 1k.
stupid questions get stupid answers...what lonewolf said pretty much explains it, but i'll simplify it even more. basically you better be hot shit if you need that fine of an adjustment. (ie benchrest)
if what you're looking into is the buckmaster line, then your decision will be based on what magnification you decide to get. personally i'd go with the 4-14x40 mildot w/ .25 IPHY adjustments. Dont be fooled, they are not moa.
.1 mil adjustment would be the equivalent to about.35 iphy. So this is the preferred adjustment, and its actually pretty coarse. This isn't benchrest central or f-class.com although much insight about those disciplines may be gleaned from this site. In a high speed tactical comp or combat environment, a 1 moa grouping is hopeful at best. corrections will be made fast. it sucks having a knob that takes 7 whole rotations to get to 1k.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Wait until you can explain to yourself why you are doing what you are doing. Otherwise you are wasting your money. And that applies to more than just a scope purchase. </div></div>
Graham,
That's some of the best advice I've seen on this site.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Wait until you can explain to yourself why you are doing what you are doing. Otherwise you are wasting your money. And that applies to more than just a scope purchase. </div></div>
Graham,
That's some of the best advice I've seen on this site.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sterling Shooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wait until you can explain to yourself why you are doing what you are doing. Otherwise you are wasting your money. And that applies to more than just a scope purchase.</div></div>Graham,That's some of the best advice I've seen on this site. </div></div>Thanks, Charles.
Usually I just get called an arrogant prick. I guess my numerous 'for sale' and 'nice rifle' posts, made to boost my post-count, are not paying off for me. 
But in reading the above I still see a difference between those seeking help, and those seeking drama. 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Sterling Shooter</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Graham</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wait until you can explain to yourself why you are doing what you are doing. Otherwise you are wasting your money. And that applies to more than just a scope purchase.</div></div>Graham,That's some of the best advice I've seen on this site. </div></div>Thanks, Charles.
Usually I just get called an arrogant prick.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
My Burris has 1/8 clicks.I like it for fine adjustments at longer ranges (500 yards +) I have seen 1/4 adjustments miss a target from 1 side to the other with just 1 click, but maybe some of my targets are to small. My turrets are marked with each mark with a big mark at every 1/2 and a number at each inch mark that I use to get me close and then I use the 1/8 for fine tuning.
My Burris has 1/8 clicks.I like it for fine adjustments at longer ranges (500 yards +) I have seen 1/4 adjustments miss a target from 1 side to the other with just 1 click, but maybe some of my targets are to small. My turrets are marked with each mark with a big mark at every 1/2 and a number at each inch mark that I use to get me close and then I use the 1/8 for fine tuning.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: David300</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I like it for fine adjustments at longer ranges (500 yards +) I have seen 1/4 adjustments miss a target from 1 side to the other with just 1 click, but maybe some of my targets are to small.</div></div>Your targets must be less than 1/4 MOA: that's a .26 inch target at 100, and a 2.6 inch target at 1000. That's pretty small, and smaller than a 1MPH wind call. I can't even aim at a target that small using the reticle, never mind call the wind to within 1MPH.
Unless you are shooting small caliber BR at close range, how does one 'fine-tune' using 1/8 adjustments?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: David300</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I like it for fine adjustments at longer ranges (500 yards +) I have seen 1/4 adjustments miss a target from 1 side to the other with just 1 click, but maybe some of my targets are to small.</div></div>Your targets must be less than 1/4 MOA: that's a .26 inch target at 100, and a 2.6 inch target at 1000. That's pretty small, and smaller than a 1MPH wind call. I can't even aim at a target that small using the reticle, never mind call the wind to within 1MPH.
Unless you are shooting small caliber BR at close range, how does one 'fine-tune' using 1/8 adjustments?
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
1/4 click at 500 and you are missing from one side to another, are you shooting at 3/4 inch pasters at 500? that is TOO small
1/4 click at 500 and you are missing from one side to another, are you shooting at 3/4 inch pasters at 500? that is TOO small
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
Seems like some people on this site are more into bickering than help lol
and to LonewolfUSMC thanks for helping out a fellow MARINE in your post you can tell the real deal from drama queens
Seems like some people on this site are more into bickering than help lol
and to LonewolfUSMC thanks for helping out a fellow MARINE in your post you can tell the real deal from drama queens
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tat1987</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've got a Nightforce BR which has the 1/8 moa clicks. I love the scope, but the 1/8 clicks are very annoying. Unless you absolutely have to have the very fine adjustments just stick with the 1/4 moa adjustments. I also want to say you will have less internal adjustments with the 1/8 than the 1/4. This is just an observation so I could be wrong.</div></div>
thus the "BR" standing for benchrest. an 1/16th of an inch wins or loses matches. if you didn't need the 1/8" and find 1/8 annoying, why buy a benchrest optic?
at 200 it's 1/4 inch, 300 1/2", and so on. so shoot further.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tat1987</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've got a Nightforce BR which has the 1/8 moa clicks. I love the scope, but the 1/8 clicks are very annoying. Unless you absolutely have to have the very fine adjustments just stick with the 1/4 moa adjustments. I also want to say you will have less internal adjustments with the 1/8 than the 1/4. This is just an observation so I could be wrong.</div></div>
thus the "BR" standing for benchrest. an 1/16th of an inch wins or loses matches. if you didn't need the 1/8" and find 1/8 annoying, why buy a benchrest optic?
at 200 it's 1/4 inch, 300 1/2", and so on. so shoot further.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
I have shot at egg's at 500 yards in the wind and I have shot at 4" X 12" steel out towards 1000. I was able to get on target, the other guy could not by adjusting his scope, he had to hold hold off to hit his target. Maybe his scope would go more than 1/4 at a time. His scope I think was a ziess but Im not sure.
and maybe the wind would blow more when he shot!
I have shot at egg's at 500 yards in the wind and I have shot at 4" X 12" steel out towards 1000. I was able to get on target, the other guy could not by adjusting his scope, he had to hold hold off to hit his target. Maybe his scope would go more than 1/4 at a time. His scope I think was a ziess but Im not sure.
and maybe the wind would blow more when he shot!
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: donshaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Seems like some people on this site are more into bickering than help lol.</div></div>We're just calling it the way it looks to others, meaning that it's excellent information for you about how you are being perceived.
There's also good information above about what you ask, but it's often between the lines of what we are writing. Opinion is not information; and information isn't help if it's BS. So, why gripe about not being spoon-fed? I know that when others help me figure things out for myself the knowledge lasts longer.
And in my experience the better soldiers - and Marines - earned their respect before asking for it, and didn't start by criticizing the friends they were trying to make.
Glad to have you aboard, BTW.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: donshaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Seems like some people on this site are more into bickering than help lol.</div></div>We're just calling it the way it looks to others, meaning that it's excellent information for you about how you are being perceived.
There's also good information above about what you ask, but it's often between the lines of what we are writing. Opinion is not information; and information isn't help if it's BS. So, why gripe about not being spoon-fed? I know that when others help me figure things out for myself the knowledge lasts longer.
And in my experience the better soldiers - and Marines - earned their respect before asking for it, and didn't start by criticizing the friends they were trying to make.
Glad to have you aboard, BTW.
G
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Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: donshaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Whats best for long distance
pro & con </div></div>
Unless you can hold 1/8 or 1/4 to 1K + and have all day to dial, I'd dump them an go with 1/2 moa. I can get 45 moa in one turn an never get off a turn. Can't tell you how many times I've seen guys that were one turn off, talking to theirselfs. If your just shooting KD and are just starting close then moving out or the reverse, thats one thing. If your shooting UKD and are dialing instead of holding, my money says you'll join the off a round or two club. Everyone either has, or will do that at least once, the difference is how bad is it going to hurt, when you do it.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: donshaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Whats best for long distance
pro & con </div></div>
Unless you can hold 1/8 or 1/4 to 1K + and have all day to dial, I'd dump them an go with 1/2 moa. I can get 45 moa in one turn an never get off a turn. Can't tell you how many times I've seen guys that were one turn off, talking to theirselfs. If your just shooting KD and are just starting close then moving out or the reverse, thats one thing. If your shooting UKD and are dialing instead of holding, my money says you'll join the off a round or two club. Everyone either has, or will do that at least once, the difference is how bad is it going to hurt, when you do it.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: David300</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have shot at egg's at 500 yards in the wind and I have shot at 4" X 12" steel out towards 1000. I was able to get on target, the other guy could not by adjusting his scope, he had to hold hold off to hit his target. Maybe his scope would go more than 1/4 at a time. His scope I think was a ziess but Im not sure.
and maybe the wind would blow more when he shot!</div></div>
the 1/8 inch is like a condom, it's nice to know you have it in case you need it.
i shoot alot of .22 lr between 42 yards and 200+ yards. at the shorter to mid ranges it is a blessing having 1/8" at 200 it's a curse as i crank and crank and crank the turret (i guy told me just today that it sounds like i'm unzippering a fat guys jacket from the sound of all those clicks). but, if your anal enough such as i to get that hole dead center and not a little right or a little left, it's something you have to deal with, or get another scope. a few new scopes out there have 1/2" adjustments, when at long range could mean a 3-4 inch adjustment per click. not handy or practical at 100 to 400 yards on an MOA rifle, but quite nice on a .50 cal at 1000+ going for center mass. less time clicking and more time "sticking".
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: David300</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have shot at egg's at 500 yards in the wind and I have shot at 4" X 12" steel out towards 1000. I was able to get on target, the other guy could not by adjusting his scope, he had to hold hold off to hit his target. Maybe his scope would go more than 1/4 at a time. His scope I think was a ziess but Im not sure.
and maybe the wind would blow more when he shot!</div></div>
the 1/8 inch is like a condom, it's nice to know you have it in case you need it.
i shoot alot of .22 lr between 42 yards and 200+ yards. at the shorter to mid ranges it is a blessing having 1/8" at 200 it's a curse as i crank and crank and crank the turret (i guy told me just today that it sounds like i'm unzippering a fat guys jacket from the sound of all those clicks). but, if your anal enough such as i to get that hole dead center and not a little right or a little left, it's something you have to deal with, or get another scope. a few new scopes out there have 1/2" adjustments, when at long range could mean a 3-4 inch adjustment per click. not handy or practical at 100 to 400 yards on an MOA rifle, but quite nice on a .50 cal at 1000+ going for center mass. less time clicking and more time "sticking".
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
Look first at the cheapest durable Mil/Mil scopes that are out there. Then ask yourself if you really need anything other than that.
For 'general shooting', hunting and bench as you call it, if you mean range work on paper targets at fixed ranges, and sighting-in for PBZ, then it doesn't matter what you have as long as it holds a zero and tracks.
But don't buy an inexpensive scope with a high-number variable, as they've got to save the money somewhere. I've seen Buckmasters that work well, meaning track, but I disagree with all your choices so far.
Look first at the cheapest durable Mil/Mil scopes that are out there. Then ask yourself if you really need anything other than that.
For 'general shooting', hunting and bench as you call it, if you mean range work on paper targets at fixed ranges, and sighting-in for PBZ, then it doesn't matter what you have as long as it holds a zero and tracks.
But don't buy an inexpensive scope with a high-number variable, as they've got to save the money somewhere. I've seen Buckmasters that work well, meaning track, but I disagree with all your choices so far.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TOP PREDATOR</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: David300</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have shot at egg's at 500 yards in the wind and I have shot at 4" X 12" steel out towards 1000. I was able to get on target, the other guy could not by adjusting his scope, he had to hold hold off to hit his target. Maybe his scope would go more than 1/4 at a time. His scope I think was a ziess but Im not sure.
and maybe the wind would blow more when he shot!</div></div>
the 1/8 inch is like a condom, it's nice to know you have it in case you need it.
i shoot alot of .22 lr between 42 yards and 200+ yards. at the shorter to mid ranges it is a blessing having 1/8" at 200 it's a curse as i crank and crank and crank the turret (i guy told me just today that it sounds like i'm unzippering a fat guys jacket from the sound of all those clicks). but, if your anal enough such as i to get that hole dead center and not a little right or a little left, it's something you have to deal with, or get another scope. a few new scopes out there have 1/2" adjustments, when at long range could mean a 3-4 inch adjustment per click. not handy or practical at 100 to 400 yards on an MOA rifle, but quite nice on a .50 cal at 1000+ going for center mass. less time clicking and more time "sticking". </div></div>
I agree. I do not pay alot of attention to the clicks I usualy just go by the marks until I need that extra little bit of adjustment.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TOP PREDATOR</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: David300</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have shot at egg's at 500 yards in the wind and I have shot at 4" X 12" steel out towards 1000. I was able to get on target, the other guy could not by adjusting his scope, he had to hold hold off to hit his target. Maybe his scope would go more than 1/4 at a time. His scope I think was a ziess but Im not sure.
and maybe the wind would blow more when he shot!</div></div>
the 1/8 inch is like a condom, it's nice to know you have it in case you need it.
i shoot alot of .22 lr between 42 yards and 200+ yards. at the shorter to mid ranges it is a blessing having 1/8" at 200 it's a curse as i crank and crank and crank the turret (i guy told me just today that it sounds like i'm unzippering a fat guys jacket from the sound of all those clicks). but, if your anal enough such as i to get that hole dead center and not a little right or a little left, it's something you have to deal with, or get another scope. a few new scopes out there have 1/2" adjustments, when at long range could mean a 3-4 inch adjustment per click. not handy or practical at 100 to 400 yards on an MOA rifle, but quite nice on a .50 cal at 1000+ going for center mass. less time clicking and more time "sticking". </div></div>
I agree. I do not pay alot of attention to the clicks I usualy just go by the marks until I need that extra little bit of adjustment.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: donshaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Whats best for long distance
pro & con</div></div>
really depends on what you call long distance, what your trying to hit, and the trajectory of your setup. your baseline zero comes into the equation, as that'll determine how many more clicks you have to go up.
500+ yards, hitting center mass, flat shooter i'd say 1/4 or 1/2
500+ yards, hitting bullseyes, flat shooter i'd say 1/8
500+ yards, hitting center mass, lobing bullets 1/2
500+ yards, hitting bullseyes, lobing bullets, get another rifle.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: donshaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Whats best for long distance
pro & con</div></div>
really depends on what you call long distance, what your trying to hit, and the trajectory of your setup. your baseline zero comes into the equation, as that'll determine how many more clicks you have to go up.
500+ yards, hitting center mass, flat shooter i'd say 1/4 or 1/2
500+ yards, hitting bullseyes, flat shooter i'd say 1/8
500+ yards, hitting center mass, lobing bullets 1/2
500+ yards, hitting bullseyes, lobing bullets, get another rifle.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
Don,
I'll chime in on this one.As much as i can.
What do you wanna do with the rig? how far you wanna shoot? What size targets at distance are you planning on shooting at?
If your looking for a tactical type setup.I would look at mil/mil for the reason that the adjustments are the same as your reticle. If your looking to shoot long distance i'd look at a 30mm main tube. That will allow more adjustments then a 1 inch tube will allow.
SOTA
Don,
I'll chime in on this one.As much as i can.
What do you wanna do with the rig? how far you wanna shoot? What size targets at distance are you planning on shooting at?
If your looking for a tactical type setup.I would look at mil/mil for the reason that the adjustments are the same as your reticle. If your looking to shoot long distance i'd look at a 30mm main tube. That will allow more adjustments then a 1 inch tube will allow.
SOTA
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sota</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don,
I'll chime in on this one.As much as i can.
What do you wanna do with the rig? how far you wanna shoot? What size targets at distance are you planning on shooting at?
If your looking for a tactical type setup.I would look at mil/mil for the reason that the adjustments are the same as your reticle. If your looking to shoot long distance i'd look at a 30mm main tube. That will allow more adjustments then a 1 inch tube will allow.
SOTA </div></div>
Im looking at trying to shoot out to 1000 yrds
Deer size target
what is a good scope i could get used in the $400-500 range?
Thx
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sota</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don,
I'll chime in on this one.As much as i can.
What do you wanna do with the rig? how far you wanna shoot? What size targets at distance are you planning on shooting at?
If your looking for a tactical type setup.I would look at mil/mil for the reason that the adjustments are the same as your reticle. If your looking to shoot long distance i'd look at a 30mm main tube. That will allow more adjustments then a 1 inch tube will allow.
SOTA </div></div>
Im looking at trying to shoot out to 1000 yrds
Deer size target
what is a good scope i could get used in the $400-500 range?
Thx
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
falcon or ss
falcon or ss
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: donshaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sota</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don,
I'll chime in on this one.As much as i can.
What do you wanna do with the rig? how far you wanna shoot? What size targets at distance are you planning on shooting at?
If your looking for a tactical type setup.I would look at mil/mil for the reason that the adjustments are the same as your reticle. If your looking to shoot long distance i'd look at a 30mm main tube. That will allow more adjustments then a 1 inch tube will allow.
SOTA </div></div>
Im looking at trying to shoot out to 1000 yrds
Deer size target
what is a good scope i could get used in the $400-500 range?
Thx </div></div>
vortex viper..
6.5-20x44 or 6.5-20x50 with 30mm tube, plenty of MOA travel for $500 or less...
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: donshaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: sota</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Don,
I'll chime in on this one.As much as i can.
What do you wanna do with the rig? how far you wanna shoot? What size targets at distance are you planning on shooting at?
If your looking for a tactical type setup.I would look at mil/mil for the reason that the adjustments are the same as your reticle. If your looking to shoot long distance i'd look at a 30mm main tube. That will allow more adjustments then a 1 inch tube will allow.
SOTA </div></div>
Im looking at trying to shoot out to 1000 yrds
Deer size target
what is a good scope i could get used in the $400-500 range?
Thx </div></div>
vortex viper..
6.5-20x44 or 6.5-20x50 with 30mm tube, plenty of MOA travel for $500 or less...
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
Donshaw,
Here is the deal and I think you are starting to get it, I too am a newbie to all this torn between fclass and practical style shooting. The guys on this forum are 1%'ers. Top of the line gear top not skill. Its tempting for newbies like ourselves to jump in searching for quick answers to speed up our learning curve. Most guys here spend almost $300 a month in ammo. Their scopes are 10x that. I have a 1/8 IPHY (moa) nikon monarch. It was my first "good" scope and I picked it up for $250 couldn't beat that. Fact is few guys can hold 1/8 moa accuracy. Based on the equipmwnt your talking about and preceived skill level that's not you not yet maybe not ever. Let's me real as a newbie 1moa is probably where you are at and 1/2moa is probably your goal what does this translate to. It means who cares if you can adjust your scope 1/8 moa, move it a click then prove you held steady enough to show it. There are very few mil/mil scopes it your price range. If your starting out and looking all around the best advice anyone has ever given me is spend more time shooting. Get a super sniper. 10x. Its cheap reliable and will get you to 1K. There are plenty of used ones out there and it will remove some variables and let you focus of basics. If u want to spend more get the 10xhd then you can get mil/mil and a scope that you will really love with good resell. If that doesn't interest you ill sell you my 6-24x50sf monarch for $450 w/rings its 1/8 and has nice glass and ill buy the new SS 10HD
Donshaw,
Here is the deal and I think you are starting to get it, I too am a newbie to all this torn between fclass and practical style shooting. The guys on this forum are 1%'ers. Top of the line gear top not skill. Its tempting for newbies like ourselves to jump in searching for quick answers to speed up our learning curve. Most guys here spend almost $300 a month in ammo. Their scopes are 10x that. I have a 1/8 IPHY (moa) nikon monarch. It was my first "good" scope and I picked it up for $250 couldn't beat that. Fact is few guys can hold 1/8 moa accuracy. Based on the equipmwnt your talking about and preceived skill level that's not you not yet maybe not ever. Let's me real as a newbie 1moa is probably where you are at and 1/2moa is probably your goal what does this translate to. It means who cares if you can adjust your scope 1/8 moa, move it a click then prove you held steady enough to show it. There are very few mil/mil scopes it your price range. If your starting out and looking all around the best advice anyone has ever given me is spend more time shooting. Get a super sniper. 10x. Its cheap reliable and will get you to 1K. There are plenty of used ones out there and it will remove some variables and let you focus of basics. If u want to spend more get the 10xhd then you can get mil/mil and a scope that you will really love with good resell. If that doesn't interest you ill sell you my 6-24x50sf monarch for $450 w/rings its 1/8 and has nice glass and ill buy the new SS 10HD
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: donshaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow there are a bunch arrogant pricks on this web site!!</div></div>
That is funny! Sig line worthy even.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: donshaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Because you think that when you know a LITTLE abt something it gives you the right to be a jerk. </div></div>
Heres the thing, there are some of the best and most experienced shooters on the planet on this site. Centain questions get redundant. You need to do a lot of reading here, get a basis of knowledge and then ask specific questions.
This is a TACTICAL shooting forum, 1/8 MOA clicks are way to small for effective tactical shooting. Some even think that 1/4 MOA is a waste of time and prefer 1/2 MOA.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: donshaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Wow there are a bunch arrogant pricks on this web site!!</div></div>
That is funny! Sig line worthy even.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: donshaw</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Because you think that when you know a LITTLE abt something it gives you the right to be a jerk. </div></div>
Heres the thing, there are some of the best and most experienced shooters on the planet on this site. Centain questions get redundant. You need to do a lot of reading here, get a basis of knowledge and then ask specific questions.
This is a TACTICAL shooting forum, 1/8 MOA clicks are way to small for effective tactical shooting. Some even think that 1/4 MOA is a waste of time and prefer 1/2 MOA.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NY700</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Let's me real as a newbie 1moa is probably where you are at and 1/2moa is probably your goal...</div></div>I am very confident with 3 MOA targets: I shoot cold bores at 1000 with a .308 on 3 MOA targets. On a course, with no stress, if you count ALL my shooting, I will be under 2 MOA. That doesn't mean I can't shoot 3/8 dots at 100. But 1 MOA at 100 is easy. 1 MOA at 1000 is hard. When you can shoot 1 MOA reliably you're doing far better than most. I can't.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NY700</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Let's me real as a newbie 1moa is probably where you are at and 1/2moa is probably your goal...</div></div>I am very confident with 3 MOA targets: I shoot cold bores at 1000 with a .308 on 3 MOA targets. On a course, with no stress, if you count ALL my shooting, I will be under 2 MOA. That doesn't mean I can't shoot 3/8 dots at 100. But 1 MOA at 100 is easy. 1 MOA at 1000 is hard. When you can shoot 1 MOA reliably you're doing far better than most. I can't.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
I highly suggest a Falcon Optics 4-14x44FFP in Mil/Mil for your purposes and budget.
The 4x low end will be fine for close range. The only problem with that optic for hunting is that it's not going to favor low-light because the reticle gets very fine on 4x and there is no illumination.
For everything else (including target shooting to 1000) it's a great option in that price point.
http://www.rwsnydergunsmithing.com/secure-rwsnydergunsmithing/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=45
I have the 1/4 MOA version because Mil/Mil was not available when I purchased mine. I have since replaced it with a USO SN-3, but it held it's own with scopes much more expensive.
I highly suggest a Falcon Optics 4-14x44FFP in Mil/Mil for your purposes and budget.
The 4x low end will be fine for close range. The only problem with that optic for hunting is that it's not going to favor low-light because the reticle gets very fine on 4x and there is no illumination.
For everything else (including target shooting to 1000) it's a great option in that price point.
http://www.rwsnydergunsmithing.com/secure-rwsnydergunsmithing/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=45
I have the 1/4 MOA version because Mil/Mil was not available when I purchased mine. I have since replaced it with a USO SN-3, but it held it's own with scopes much more expensive.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
The 4x low end will be fine for close range. The only problem with that optic for hunting is that it's not going to favor low-light because the reticle gets very fine on 4x and there is no illumination.
</div></div>
Did you have the MLR type or the Gen II type reticle? I've got the Gen II type on my Quad and I don't think it's quite as thin as the MLR type.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: LoneWolfUSMC</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
The 4x low end will be fine for close range. The only problem with that optic for hunting is that it's not going to favor low-light because the reticle gets very fine on 4x and there is no illumination.
</div></div>
Did you have the MLR type or the Gen II type reticle? I've got the Gen II type on my Quad and I don't think it's quite as thin as the MLR type.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
I actually had the Skeletal Mil Dot reticle on the Gen I. It went bye-bye in low light on 4x. I have not had a chance to use one of the new reticles in low light.
I actually had the Skeletal Mil Dot reticle on the Gen I. It went bye-bye in low light on 4x. I have not had a chance to use one of the new reticles in low light.
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
When I say "Gen II" I meant the "Enhanced MilDot", which looks like a Premier Gen II rip-off to my eye. It's not skeletal and is functional @ 4x in low light (for the most part.)
When I say "Gen II" I meant the "Enhanced MilDot", which looks like a Premier Gen II rip-off to my eye. It's not skeletal and is functional @ 4x in low light (for the most part.)
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
Has anyone ever used a scope with a 35mm main tube
I saw a good on a millett LRS
Has anyone ever used a scope with a 35mm main tube
I saw a good on a millett LRS
Re: 1/8 vs 1/4
I used and IOR with a 35mm main tube. Gives you extra elevation/windage adjustment vs 30mm, other than that it just means you have a very limited selection of rings.
I used and IOR with a 35mm main tube. Gives you extra elevation/windage adjustment vs 30mm, other than that it just means you have a very limited selection of rings.
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