10/22 bedding

[Cvarney]

I've searched the web for the last few days and haven't found much agreement on bedding a 10/22. Some say to free float and others say to bed part of the barrel and still other says to bed the action and part of the fore end of the barrel. What's your guys thoughts on it? I just put a kidd bull on mine. Going to have to either purchase a new stock or knock out some wood in the factory one so I'd like to try to knock it all out at once. Thanks guys.
C

 

[AXEMAN]

there is only 1 action screw in a 10/22. when I tried to float the barrel by opening the channel of the boyds blaster/fajen thumbhole silhouette I ended up with a barrel/action that wiggled back and forth. some have tapped and threaded the barrel to secure the action. my bulls were too heavy to not nose dive. guys have bedded them, im not saying its not doable. but what are you gaining really? if the barrel channel is true and you have a good stock, your pretty secure already. what stock are you using?

 

[justin amateur]

Barrel bedding is used when stock flex, due to recoil, is an issue,
or the barrel doesn't have enough diameter to prevent muzzle whip.
On a heavily built receiver with a bull barrel, as long as the stock is rigid
and the receiver doesn't shift in the stock, no bedding is recommended.
But on a wood stock with slim lines, even with a heavy receiver/barrel
bedding will solve that recoil flex dance that occurs and causes inaccuracy.
Also, on a receiver machined to minimal weight and strength (money saving)
barrel bedding will stop receiver distortion that allows the barrel to shift off line.
This can be demonstrated by using ammo with increasingly higher muzzle
velocities, and watching group sizes increase when fired from a test rest at 25 yards.
The increasing recoil loads cause greater stock flex, receiver distortion and barrel whip.

 

[MarkCO]

Do you have an upgraded v-block like this? Tactical Solutions Barrel Retainer V-Block Ruger 10/22 10/22 Mag SS

If not, that is the first step. With the heavy bulls, it does help. Many have found that a contact patch in the stock 10" to 12" out from the action helps with overall accuracy, I did not. The next step is a threaded barrel and receiver mod, which helps a lot. I went to using Beyer barrels, which are lighter, but also very accurate. So much so that I was able to sell my threaded barrel 10/22. YMMV of course.

Bedding a 10/22 has NOTHING to do with stock flex due to recoil. The barrel mount is terrible for accuracy. Some people put on heavy bulls and get worse accuracy just due to the point loads on the action and barrel block.

 

[thickstrings]

Frequently Asked Questions This is from the Kidd website, scroll down to the barrel section. Also, only 10lbs torque on the v-block screws. I would suggest the Kidd bolt and receiver pins that screw in. The stock stock will be marginal at best,without a pillar. I would look into the rear tang hold down screw as well and Definatly, bed the rear. This is just the begining....I suggest you take a look at Rimfire central website, where you can read for days about what to do with a 10/22.

 

[repiv]

The rear tang is what really makes a 10/22 come to life if you ask me. Mine has the rear tang, has a full floated Kidd barrel, and is bedded. It shoots ragged hole groups if I do my part. If you are looking to go to the trouble of bedding you might as well install the rear tang too.

Here are a couple of links to look at if you are interested.
RugerForum.com ? View topic - KiDD Rear Tang Install
Primal Rights ? View topic - Kidd 10/22. Build and Review

I gave this to my smith and he installed the tang on the receiver and did the inletting on the stock for $80. I did the bedding myself.

 

[Cvarney]

Axeman I was thinking of trying to use the factory stock. I like the look of the reddish wood, birch I believe, and sanding out the channel to fit the new barrel. Also thought of a boyds tacticool. I'm really wanting to keep a wood stock on it. But not break the bank. lol
MarkCO I have the stock V-block right now.
Thickstrings I followed the 10 inch pounds. As close as possible as it was hard to get a torque wrench in there around the barrel. but it's close. A kidd bolt is on my list for the future. The grocery list of stuff I got this month used up my self budget on it. I did put the screwed action pins in.

I should have mentioned this, full list of what I did,
bolt buffer, extractor and firing pin, 16.5" stainless bull barrel, and the extended mag release all from kidd.

The rear tang screw is awesome and I wondered about something like that. I guess I overlooked it.

 

[JimBianchi]

Lots of good advise here.

I bedded one of my ruger stocks with a pillar and JBWeld Putty for the first two inches of barrel in front of the receiver. (used kids putty to keep it out of the Vblock screws and cranny's along with vegetable spray as the release. Worked great.)

All that work was no better than the Hogue I bought for $65 on Amazon and $50 private party recently. I like the feel and hold of the Hogue better. As a lefty it fits me well and has zero play. Very solid.

Rear tang is the way to go for the ultimate rock solid action. Very effective from what I've seen.

 

[Cvarney]

I got the barrel channel almost bored out enough last night. Did it by hand wrapping some sandpaper around a socket a touch bigger than the barrel diameter. Still getting contact at about the front two inches. I'm unsure if I need to go deep or it's barrel droop. Going to look at it again Monday.

JimBianchi I'm a lefty too. Looked hard at the houge stocks I just want to keep wood with this one. I think it looks better with the silver aluminum and stainless. I looked into the rear tang. I couldn't find one I could use with out going way over my skill level. I have no tooling or talents to properly mill the receiver for it to fit.

I'll test this out and if I don't like it, I might try a boyds somewhere in the near future. Not going for competition accuracy by any means. Olny started messing with it cause I ordered a rimfire can (SWR sparrow II) and needed a threaded barrel. Might be awhile before I get to shoot it but I'll let ya'll know how it goes.

 

[AXEMAN]

see with one screw to bind them, the 10/22 will always droop. look at the original design with the barrel band. if you were to float a bull, id float a .920 aluminum barrel like tac-sol or whistle pig. it I were to float a skinny, id get the receiver with a rear action screw. I sanded out the channel on a blaster as I mentioned but stopped as soon as I realized the physics of what was happening. luckily 2-3 layers of clear tape was enough to fix my situation and stop the action from wiggling side to side. now you could bed the receiver in the stock so its got no gap and that would help too. use lots of release, wax on x3

 

[slowagon]

I bedded the barrel only on my 10/22. I found the overall balance point of the barreled action and bedded a 2" spot, an inch in front and an inch behind that point. I wrapped the barrel in electrical tape to center it into the barrel channel and torqued the action screw to 15 in-lbs. After the bedding compound was cured and all was cleaned up, I cut out a piece of old bicycle tube and placed it under the V-block area (where the action screw goes). I torqued to 40 in-lbs, shot a group, re-adjusted the torque, shot another group until I found a sweet spot (48 in-lbs).
It consistently shoots 1" 10rnd groups at 100yds. I am using a plain old Ruger bull barrel in a Fajen silhouette stock shooting Wolf MT.

10/22's are fun to tinker with but there comes a point a diminishing returns. I've put a lot of time and effort into my setup only to have my ass handed to me by off the shelf Savage mark 2s that cost about the same.

 

[kortik]

I'm certainly no expert on serious Ruger 10/22 improvements, but just found out that one of my PTLs (Precision Torque Limiter), specifically 15 inch-lbs. pre-set unit, can be easily used for V-block screws, and as far as I'm concerned from the practical point of view, for just about everything else that may need to be torqued on MY own stock Ruger 10/22.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-wsLYnMEHo

Boris
Borka Tools

 

[Captain Kirk]

I have been playing around with various bedding methods with the rimfires, more specifically the 10/22s. All my stocks get a custom pull length pillar installed and epoxy bedded. This pillar gives a solid contact point to the stock and does not allow the stock to compress between the action screw and the receiver. Next step is to bed just in front of the mag well and about 2-3" under the barrel. What this does is spread out the weight of the barrel and action and centers it over the action screw. Here are a few pics

 

[RicosRevenge]

Captain, I'm still waiting for that replacement bedding pillar from about 3 years ago... ;-P