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10/22 questions

CastleRocker

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Dec 2, 2008
58
0
Castle Rock, WA
Well, as much as I don't like to admit defeat...I'm going to have to swallow my pride and ask some questions.

I ordered some parts and pieces to put a 10/22 together for my wife so she can go Sage Rat hunting this year with an accurate semi-auto 22. VQ barrel, Kidd bolt/charging handle/guide rod, Kidd two stage trigger.

Now for the bad... it's shaving the copper off the next round, (I've tried six different magazines, it does it on all of them).

It only will shoot one round, and then I have a failure to fire on the second one. The hammer drops, but there is absolutely no print in the rim, and it won't always eject it when the charging handle is cocked manually.

If I eject the magazine, cock the bolt (live round is in the chamber as it didn't eject), and slowly ease it forward into battery, with little push at the to get the extractor to gently go over the rim, the round will fire the next time the trigger is pulled. (Of course if the bolt is let go with no magazine and a live round in the chamber, it will slam-fire, and if you have the palm of your hand under the now empty mag well, then you will have some brass casing and some powder residue in your palm, I would "imagine" it will sting a bit and remind you that this is why we ALWAYS have firearms pointed in a safe direction)!

Side note; this is not my first rodeo. I used to own a small gun shop, and I've been a multi-craft millwright for 20+ years now, and have spent a few years as a primary trade machinist. This IS however the most trouble I've ever had with 10/22.

Any and all advice, information is GREATLY appreciated.

I'm taking one variable out at a time right now. I'm putting the bolt into a different receiver to see if it's the receiver or the bolt. Then I'm going to take the extractor out of the bolt to see if the rim on the slam fire was hit by the edge of the relief on the bolt face or the extractor, and so on and so on. I'm using MY 10/22 as a given in this equation as I know how well it works.

Anyway, if you guys, gals, and gurus can think of anything I'm missing, please whip some wisdom on me. My wife would really appreciate it too, as we are supposed to go shoot Sage Rats at the end of the month.

Thanks again, and good shooting to you!
 
Can you take a picture of the chamber through the ejection port and a picture of the bolt all the way in battery?
 
How old is the reciever you are using?

I tried changing some parts in my dad's old 10/22, with a metal trigger gaurd , I was having some of the same problems with failure to feed. I ended up putting the extractor and firing pin from the Kidd bolt in the original bolt and using it. I was just using the trigger job kit and had to put it in a plastic trigger gaurd as well.

I have never had any problems using Kidd parts other than in that one older gun.
 
I had some issues like this with mine after I added some parts. It would fire 1 round then hang. But my issue might not be yours. My bolt handle was painted (bad idea), and the paint where it fit into the bolt and along the top where is contacted the receiver was making the fit "too tight" and it made everything not work correctly. I took it back apart, polished the bolt where is made metal contact till it shined with dremel and polish wheel, took all the paint off the handle where it contacted the bolt again dremel and wire brushes and used 1 or 2 drops of oil on the top of the bolt where it makes contact with the receiver. It has worked like a champ ever since.

Something else also, I too have the Kidd trigger and if you set it too light or incorrectly the bolt will close and not be able to fire. So if you played with the trigger settings might want to look at that again.

Something tells me that your issue is related to the bolt though. You probably already took the bolt completely apart and cleaned it though. If the trigger is right and the thing is still not working just buy this.

http://www.coolguyguns.com/CNC-22-bolt_p_25.html

hope this helps
 
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Can you take a picture of the chamber through the ejection port and a picture of the bolt all the way in battery?

I can try. The bolt face to barrel looks very good. I've got a little fiber optic light that I've shown all around it and can see no "extra daylight" when looking from the opposite side. Everything looks nice and square. I'll try to take some pics anyway.

DFOOSKING

Tactical Innovations makes an adjustable all aluminum mag. Has screws to set the deck height of the mag.

Its not cheap either.



Thanks for the info. I've ruled out magazine issues, as I gathered up all 11 magazines that I have and the all performed exactly the same. Also, every one of these mags runs great in all the rest of my 10/22's.



RRAshooter78

How old is the reciever you are using?

I tried changing some parts in my dad's old 10/22, with a metal trigger gaurd , I was having some of the same problems with failure to feed. I ended up putting the extractor and firing pin from the Kidd bolt in the original bolt and using it. I was just using the trigger job kit and had to put it in a plastic trigger gaurd as well.

I have never had any problems using Kidd parts other than in that one older gun.

This is a brand spanking new receiver, in fact the only thing used is the two stage Kidd trigger. I've also NEVER had problems with Kidd parts. I'll call them as well tomorrow and see if they have any advice to offer.

Thanks to all for the help. I'll be trying everything.
 
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Is your extractor going into the extractor cut in the barrel cleanly? I'd also look at your firing pin strikes. I'd replace one part at a time with the originals until it becomes reliable again and go from there.
Ok, I'm a retired millwright from the Fibre. Where do you work? Weyco, Nor Pac or Fibre by any chance?
 
The one I had problems with is 30+ years old, if it was not my dads I would have started from scratch.

Are you using a factory ruger reciever or an aftermarket one?
 
Hey HDbiker1! I used to millwright for Weyerhaeuser but I work for the Port now. I'm sure we know a lot of the same folks. We must be on the same wavelength (millwrights are that way sometimes ya know), I did that very thing last week before we took off to go shoot Sage Rats and Rock Chucks down by K. Falls on Sunday night. (They are out by the way...it was a blast!)

Thanks to all again. This is an entirely brand new build up for my wife with a fresh receiver, and new (C.F. wrapped) VQ barrel, brand new Kidd bolt/guide rod/charging handle, Kidd V-block, and a new (pink laminated) Boyd's stock. I purchased every part and piece new in the wrapper except the Kidd trigger and the magazines, and they are all used (by me). I have a lot of magazines, and each of them has been tried in at least two of my other aftermarket 10/22's and function flawlessly.

So far, I have narrowed it down to the fit between the bolt and the receiver. (I would bet a LOT of money that the brand new Kidd bolt is not to blame). So I'm thinking receiver. I put blue layout fluid on the inside of the receiver to see if there is an obvious tight spot in the ways, but it seems to be running pretty true.

So I took my best shooting 10/22 apart and swapped parts one at a time. It has an old STI receiver that I KNOW is perfect. Everything worked fine, including the Que bolt in my wife's new receiver. The ONLY time it goes to "single shot semi-auto" mode is when I combine her bolt/receiver and trigger. All other combinations run fine.

Any other suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks and good shooting to you.
 
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Pretty cool seeing posts from two guys living within spitting distance of myself. Hope you get your 10/22 figured out. I wish I could offer some wisdom on the issue, but truth be told, I'm struggling with dealing with a much simpler issue on a 10/22 lately. Best of wishes to you.

K9-
 
OK so if you take out the kidd trigger and use another trigger it works? And if I understand correctly the bolt shuts completely with the hammer/firing pin already in "fired" position? You cant pull the trigger because its as if it has already been pulled? Im not trying to say there is something wrong with the kidd trigger, I have one and they are great. But I did have a situation where mine would do what your is doing until I adjusted the pull wieght up a little bit.
 
I had a similar issue with a 10/22 I built for my son. Tried and tried to figure it out. I too was getting 2nd round FTF, but could recock and put the bolt into battery and it would fire fine. The problem was in the trigger assembly. Turns out I had accidentally slightly bent the hammer spring strut while replacing the guts with a VQ hammer. To the naked eye it looked good and I could manually reset the hammer for the second shot, but during normal cycling it would not reset. Drove me nuts because I couldn't reproduce the symptoms during a function test. Looked under good light with my loupes and found a small crack in the strut bar and it was slightly bent. Its tough to see unless you remove the hammer spring from off strut bar. Replaced the strut bar ($2.70 or so) and have had no issues since then.

It may not be your issue, but the symptoms sound the same. Hope it helps and you get it figured out.
 
just curious why you would buy so many kidd parts but a vq barrel?? kidd makes great barrels about same price as vq